Building a Flowering Cab

[T Arashikage]

So, I'm going to build a flowering cab to go with my already existing grow tent.

I'm half asleep, hung over, and out of it right now so try to bear with me. This thread is just starting off from the brainstorming standpoint, as I won't have the money to do anything for a few weeks plus I'd like some input and what not.

I'm going to DIY just about everything and I'm a bit of a n00b when it comes to woodwork and building things, so all advice/help/suggestions are appreciated.

First up:

My Growing Method

2 plants at a time
SCROG
about 2 feet by 4 feet screen
DIY Bubbleponics/DWC reservoir
rockwool cubes/hydroton/net pots
air pump(s), air stones, water pump, hoses


Veg Area

I'm going to turn my existing grow tent into the veg area, which is a 4 x 2 x 4 Homebox Clonebox. I plan on starting in there with a reservoir with just two plants (once I get some clones so I know the sex), vegging the hell out of them (probably 6-8 weeks), scroggin them until they're covering about 50% of the screen, then dragging the res, screen and all, out and slapping it into my flowering cab to flower.



The Flowering Cab:

So, I want the flower area to be about 4 feet wide and 2 feet deep. I'll want it to be about 6 feet tall to allow for the HPS I'll be getting and have enough room to let those buds grow.

I will need the cab to be stealth, as it will just sit out.

I'm thinking of either an IKEA cabinet:



It's:
Width: 47 1/4 "
Depth: 22 7/8 "
Height: 73 5/8 "

...which is perfect for my needs. However, they want like 300 bucks to ship it? What am I doing wrong with putting that thing in my cart? lol

OR, I'm thinking of a Coleman TD2 Jumbo Cabinet.

It's:
75-3/8”H x 19-5/8”D x 47-1/2”W

...which is also about perfect for my needs.

However, I have no clue as to if I can cut holes in the latter, which I will of course need to do. Also, I don't know if I can build it without any shelves...






DIY Reservoirs:

I want to build two reservoirs (I plan on having one in veg, and one in flower simultaneously and hopefully almost perpetually).

Right now I"m using a rubbermaid container, but I would like to build two reservoirs from Coleman Extreme 84 quart coolers.

I'm thinking that they will keep the water good and cold in the res, it already has a drain for taking water samples to test, it's thick and should be light proof, it's got enough room for at least 20 gallons of water, so more than enough for two big plants, and it's got wheels for me to drag the shit to and from the veg area to the flower area.

However, I would want to make some modifications.
- I want to be able to install fill lines so I know when it needs water.
- I'll obviously have to make the holes for the net pots, airlines, wires, etc
- I want to rig something to enable me to add water and nutes without having to lift the lid on the res...
- I want to be able to attach, detach, and reattach the scrog screen to the lid/res.


NEW SCROG SCREENS:

I want to make some scrog screens out of PVC tubes and chicken wire that have the capability of being able to be attached to the lid and unattached.

I've seen some DIY PVC Scrog screens, but mine will have to be able to go out from the res in order to achieve the approximate screen size of 36-40 inches wide and about 18 inches deep and about a foot above the res.

I'm thinking of some type of screws into bolts that I can use a power drill to just unscrew it from the lid or something similar...


LIGHTING:

After some deliberation (and a thread) I'm fairly sure I've decided to get a 600w Lumatek Digital Ballast + 600watt HPS bulb (either Hortilux or Sunmaster) + air coolable hood with 6 inch flanges.

I will be getting a carbon filter and a 6 inch Vortex or something similar. I know it's overkill probably for a cab that will only be 48sq feet, but I will get a dimmer and set is to whereever I need it.

So it will be:

filter ------ HPS in air coolable hood ------ fan - out of box

I think I will let the ends of the screen grow up a bit more than the center, kind of making it a U-Scrog in order to help meet the light better.


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Shit I'll need to put in the flower cab:

-I'll need to cut a hole in the side and install a darkroom vent for a passive intake.

-Need to cut a hole in the roof for the exhaust.

-Need some holes for cords to run out.

-Will need another airpump, air stones, water pump, oscillating fan, thermometer/hygrometer, (all the normal shit)

-Mylar for the walls

-Weather stripping to lightproof the box

-Insulated 6 inch ducting

-Way to hang light, might be dependent on what box I get/make

-Another speedster fan controller to dim the exhaust fan


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay, I'm already losing my train of thought here.

So, I'm doing this in order to have room to run an HPS for flower. My t5 isn't cutting it for flowering IMO. I'm also doing this to cut down my time between cycles from 3 1/2-4 months to 2-2 1/2 months.




My current issues are as follows:

Which of the cabs would be best for my needs?

Why does IKEA want 300 dollars to deliver that fuckin box to me?

What type of tool do I need to effectively make holes in both the flowering cab and the reservoirs? I'll need to make perfect holes, cut through that thick ass cooler material, etc. I do not have any tool to do this, but thought perhaps a Dremel with a hole cutter attachment might get the job done... Any suggestions?

I have a corded power drill (though I'm not sure of the voltage/speed...it's a cheap black and decker), so I could just buy a hole saw.

But, I'm going to need to cut at least two different size holes: Holes for the netpots in the res and a hole for the exhaust. Plus, I'm going to need to cut out a square for the darkroom vent for the passive intake as well as something to pass the cords out of.

So, I could get a variable hole saw kit w/an arbor but that still wouldn't help me with straight lines.

OR, I could get a dremel with or without the circle cutter and straight edge guide (for an extra 15 bucks) and it would enable better straight lines as well as cut circles between 3/4th of an inch to 12 inches in diameter.

Plus, I think I've heard everyone and their mom say that you can use a Dremel for everything from cutting circles to filing your cat's nails to building your own space shuttle etc etc etc.

I'm thinking I might just get a Dremel with the attachment. If I end up not using it I can always ebay it or something.

I'm looking at the Dremel 8000 10.8v cordless one right now

Any problems with turning coolers into reservoirs?

I'm assuming I'll do something for the fill line like Rumpleforeskin did in the DIY Bubble Bucket thread, but any suggestions as to how to create a way to add water/nutes without lifting the lid?

Anybody good with PVC tubes and/or how to attach a PVC scrog screen to a lid?


Anyhow, all suggestions/advice/comments are appreciated as per the usual. I've got a good idea of what I want, but I'm not too familiar with the woodworking/circle cutting/water proofing/weather stripping/light proofing/etc lol.

I have used the search function and have no problems doing my own research. However, I made this thread to get suggestions and any help, and will use it for the brainstorming part (now) all the way up to the completed cab w/pics and everything.

 

[PharmaCan]

I don't think a Dremmel tool is going to do what you want. If I were in your shoes I think I'd buy an inexpensive saber saw (small reciprocating saw) for the larger circular and straight cuts and a cheap hole saw set for your small holes.

When/if you get a hole saw set, you might want to take your drill with you to make sure the mandril fits in your chuck.

PC

 

[T Arashikage]

Well, hell. I thought I might've had at least that part figured out lol.

Looking around, it seems as if saber saws run about 50 bucks or so. Sound right?

I was really hoping that the dremel with the hole cutting kit would be the answer to all my cutting needs and what not. Are you thinking that it won't be able to cut through either the cooler or the wood of a cabinet?

I thought people used dremels to cut through aluminum and steel in order to modify computer cases and what not, so I was hoping it would work out alright.

Thanks for the input, man.

 

[C21H30O2]

i think you'll end up pissed if you try to build that cab with a dremel set.

 

[T Arashikage]

i think you'll end up pissed if you try to build that cab with a dremel set.

Do you think that because in your opinion a Dremel with or without a circle/hole cutting attachment wouldn't be able to cut through the wood and/or coolers?

Just wondering what the issues is.

I have a power drill and basic tools. I just need something for cutting through the wood and the cooler I think.

Thanks for the response.

 

[one Q]

shit that was LONG! ha.

For one your plan sounds spot on, esp the U scrog part.

Youll need the following:
`For holes, a nice standard corded drill and a proper hole saw. This will get your net pots and cord hole done nicely.
`Ventilation for a 600 you should go with louvers not holes unless you go hole crazy. You can get a nice 6x8 louver for 6 bucks. Or cut a chunk of the floor out and put an air filter over it. In which case you'd need a jig saw and a fase floor of some kind. `Eithe way get a jig saw. Between the drill and jig youll spend 100 and youll use it more that just once.
`Look in to 45 degree elbos and 4" hole punchouts for the screen and res access w/o ligting lid. Little yellow discs.
`Get some foam in a bottle to fill the hollow space in the lid. This willl light proof the lid and further insulate the water. MAKE SURE that your incoming air is as cool as possible this will hold on to warmth too. So then get an aquarium digital thermometer to stick in there. It has a little probe on a leash. 10bucks
`look into chrome dome lights as theyll save you space. most ppl have bad things to say about them, those ppl havnt tryed them. The ppl who have say theyre good and help with direct vetnilation. Saves money on reflector and space/height.
`Flat white paint. one gallon $7. Mylar off the chain with expence.

that's all I have to say for now. But listen dont get anything cordless unless you have to. If so get extra battery off the bat. You dont want to get in the groove and have to stop b/c your corless is out of juice. This is fustration at it's peak.

Good luck.

 

[Hydro-Soil]

Do you think that because in your opinion a Dremel with or without a circle/hole cutting attachment wouldn't be able to cut through the wood and/or coolers?

Just wondering what the issues is.

I have a power drill and basic tools. I just need something for cutting through the wood and the cooler I think.

Thanks for the response.

Case mods are done with dremels because you're grinding through a thin layer of metal. You can cut really intricate stuff.

Thick wood of a cabinet is tough for a dremel to cut large sections of. Unless you're doing small holes, you'll want to use a larger version of your dremel bit in your drill.

I own two dremels. AND a 3/4" plug in drill

 

[mrred]

a 600 is over kill a 600 is for a 3x3 foot space

the cab size your talking about is perfect for 2 150hps because its nots square or a single 250hps

and those cabs cost so much to ship because they are long and heavy when they ship them to store they are in bulk and save money on frate that way

 

[T Arashikage]

shit that was LONG! ha.

Right? Thanks for readin the novel, mane.

For one your plan sounds spot on, esp the U scrog part.

Youll need the following:
`For holes, a nice standard corded drill and a proper hole saw. This will get your net pots and cord hole done nicely.

Any recommendations? As I'm not that familiar with tools of this sort (my experience is mainly building computers) I'm just not sure what exactly to look for. I'll need to make a 6 inch diameter hole in the top of the box for the 6 inch insulated ducting to exhaust out.

Plus I'll need the right sized holes for the net pots...

So I'll need either two hole saws or a variable hole saw kit of some sort, right?

`Ventilation for a 600 you should go with louvers not holes unless you go hole crazy. You can get a nice 6x8 louver for 6 bucks. Or cut a chunk of the floor out and put an air filter over it.

I'm actually thinking of a darkroom louver type thing for the passive intake. That way you keep light out and still suck the air in efficiently.

In which case you'd need a jig saw and a fase floor of some kind. `Eithe way get a jig saw. Between the drill and jig youll spend 100 and youll use it more that just once.

Looks like I won't need the fase floor, but the jig saw (or should be) used for cutting straight lines in tough materials, right? So I could use it for the cutting of the square to fit the darkroom louver, cutting out of a square for the electrical cords to come out of the box, and various other straight line uses?

`Look in to 45 degree elbos and 4" hole punchouts for the screen and res access w/o ligting lid. Little yellow discs.

I'm thinking that I'll be able to figure the screen out alright, just using all the different PVC elbows and things. That thread by PICO was very helpful. Think I'll need a PVC cutter or will I be albe to find PVC in somewhat esoteric lengths? (never used PVC before except for shooting bottle rockets at unsuspecting victims)

The only thing I'm unsure of is to how to fasten it to the lid to make it detachable. I think I was hoping to find a way to be able to drill 4 holes through the PVC and lid, put threaded nuts on the underside of the lid, and find a way to screw the lid into place when needed, unscrew when not needed.

Sound like a plan?

And I have no idea what you were meaning by 4 inch hole punchouts and yellow discs. My powers of google-fu have failed me for the last time, unless how to defeat Soda Popinski was the knowledge I was supposed to ascertain lol.

If worse comes to worse, I think I can just cut a hole on the top of the res, find something lightproof to cover it when not in use, and just pour things into it.

`Get some foam in a bottle to fill the hollow space in the lid. This willl light proof the lid and further insulate the water. MAKE SURE that your incoming air is as cool as possible this will hold on to warmth too. So then get an aquarium digital thermometer to stick in there. It has a little probe on a leash. 10bucks

Are all cooler lids hollow? I hadn't thought of that. No problem filling it out. I had already planned on putting some mylar on the lid for reflective purposes.

I've got one of those Hanna Combo meters, which does PH/EC/TDS and water temperature, so I usually check the water temp from the water sample I draw to check everything. Is there another need for an aquarium thermometer?

`look into chrome dome lights as theyll save you space. most ppl have bad things to say about them, those ppl havnt tryed them. The ppl who have say theyre good and help with direct vetnilation. Saves money on reflector and space/height.

Not sure about this. Aren't those the bulbs with reflectors built in? I want an air cooled reflector such as a cooltube, euro reflector, or easy cool in order to suck the heat from the bulb straight out of the cab. Plus I wanted to go with either an Eye Hortilux or a Sunmaster bulb for optimum lumens and growth and all that shiznoggle.

Is there something I'm missing about the chrome domes?

`Flat white paint. one gallon $7. Mylar off the chain with expence.

I actually have some mylar just chillin in my closet, so I figured I'd put it to use in the cab. So luckily I won't have to toss out any more moolah on it.

that's all I have to say for now. But listen dont get anything cordless unless you have to. If so get extra battery off the bat. You dont want to get in the groove and have to stop b/c your corless is out of juice. This is fustration at it's peak.

Good luck.

If I get a Dremel, I just thought that newest cordless one with the ion/lithium battery was pretty sweet. I guess it won't be necessary though as the consensus seems to be that it wouldn't be able to cut through the materials I would need it to cut into.

Thanks a lot for all the input. It's greatly appreciated. If I can rep ya I will.

Also, I'll be using my totally spectacular drawing abilities to try to draw up something just to help everyone know what I'm thinking here. I'll try to up it today or tomorrow.

Peace, mane.

 

[T Arashikage]

Case mods are done with dremels because you're grinding through a thin layer of metal. You can cut really intricate stuff.

Thick wood of a cabinet is tough for a dremel to cut large sections of. Unless you're doing small holes, you'll want to use a larger version of your dremel bit in your drill.

I own two dremels. AND a 3/4" plug in drill

Thanks for the input.

So...you think I should go with a Dremel...or could go with the Dremel for all of my cutting needs? I've seen a saw attachment, circle cutting attachment, and various bits for hardcore cutting.

I just have no experience w/one...at all.

 

[T Arashikage]

a 600 is over kill a 600 is for a 3x3 foot space

the cab size your talking about is perfect for 2 150hps because its nots square or a single 250hps

and those cabs cost so much to ship because they are long and heavy when they ship them to store they are in bulk and save money on frate that way

Well, one way to look at it is that 3 x 3 = 9 sq feet and I'll have a 4 x 2 area = 8 sq. feet.

However, it won't be in the shape of a square, but a rectangle. So, the light will definitely be enough for the depth, but just under what would be needed on the sides of the width. That's why I'm going to do a bit of a u-scrog.

That way the sides of the scrog will rise up to meet the shape of the light, and hopefully maximize both the output of the light and the size of my grow space.

I did have someone suggest (on another forum) that going with 2 x 400w HPS would be perfect for the space. I think it would definitely make sense, as they are supposed to be perfect for 2 x 2ft spaces, which I actually have 2 of. However, I really don't want to bother with buying 2 reflectors, 2 ballasts, 2 bulbs, etc etc. I just think that if I try to u-scrog, the penetrative ability of a 600w should make up the difference.

As my research has told me: The higher the wattage the HPS, the more penetrative the light is (the deeper the light can reach down the height of the plant), the denser the buds, etc. So, 2 400w HPS in that space wouldn't penetrate as deep or cause as dense of buds to grow as a 600w would (from what I've gathered).

So I really wouldn't want anything less than 2 400 watts or 1 600 watt, and I'm hoping a 600 watt with a digital ballast coupled with a u-scrog designed to meet the shape of the light output will be the best for my particular situation.

Thanks for the input, mane.

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

The dremel is probably too small.

Here's what I used to cut a 3.75" cool tube hole.


It's an adjustable hole cutter with a twist bit pilot and an adjustable cutter blade. These things are dangerous and I wouldn't recommend using one of these for a 6" hole. Most corded hand drills start too quick and can snatch the drill out of your hands. If you can find a non-adjustable type with the sheet metal cup and hack saw-like teeth, these are less dangerous. I've never seen one 6" and it would probably be expensive as hell.

If I were gonna cut 6" holes I'd use a skill saw. The same for any square/rectangular cuts of that size as well. Using a skill saw requires a steady hand but you probably won't risk losing it in the process. You'll have to drill a hole through your material to insert the skill blade. Always keep the blade cutting on the scrap side of the line. If you're successful at doing this then you can come back with a rasp or a file and touch up any rough edges. Don't worry about perfection as your net pots and air vents have flanges that will cover your cuts from view. Hope this helps.

 

[T Arashikage]

The dremel is probably too small.

Here's what I used to cut a 3.75" cool tube hole.


It's an adjustable hole cutter with a twist bit pilot and an adjustable cutter blade. These things are dangerous and I wouldn't recommend using one of these for a 6" hole. Most corded hand drills start too quick and can snatch the drill out of your hands. If you can find a non-adjustable type with the sheet metal cup and hack saw-like teeth, these are less dangerous. I've never seen one 6" and it would probably be expensive as hell.

If I were gonna cut 6" holes I'd use a skill saw. The same for any square/rectangular cuts of that size as well. Using a skill saw requires a steady hand but you probably won't risk losing it in the process. You'll have to drill a hole through your material to insert the skill blade. Always keep the blade cutting on the scrap side of the line. If you're successful at doing this then you can come back with a rasp or a file and touch up any rough edges. Don't worry about perfection as your net pots and air vents have flanges that will cover your cuts from view. Hope this helps.

Thanks for the input, mane. It's much appreciated.

Here comes my awesome diagram and thoughts so far...

 

[T Arashikage]

Alright, so here’s my awesome diagram of what I’m thinking the flowering cab will look like.




I am a brilliant artist, as you can tell. Please send your accolades in the form of dankage.

ANYHOW, a couple things:

Cooler dimensions are: Exterior: 17.75" x 36.50" x 17.50"
However, it also says: Interior: 23" x 10" x 13"
What the hell does that mean? I haven’t had a chance to open one of these things up, but as I’ve said if worse comes to worse I’ll just save my money and build the reservoirs out of Rubbermaid containers. I’ll probably reuse the one I’m currently using. Reservoirs aren’t that hard to come by.

In the box there will be a powerstrip, airpump, thermometer/hygrometer, and fan controller set up somewhere. I doubt I’ll need the fan running at four hundred whatever CFM and will probably keep it throttled to almost half speed.

I guess I’ve decided on that carbon filter, reflector, and fan. If anyone sees any reason for me to choose differently I’ll listen to suggestions.

I will (if using the coolers) opt for constructing a water level indicator and take Rumpleforeskin’s DIY Bubble bucket (or Rumple Bucket) thread as my reference.
I’ll probably save myself some trouble and just cut a hole in the top of the res for putting in nutes and water, and just find a way to close the hole when not in use.

The digital ballast will sit outside the cab, as I see no reason for it to need to be in there.


Looks like I’ll need to cut a 6 inch hole in the top of the cabinet for the exhaust.
I’ll need to cut out a square to install the darkroom louver for intake.
I will also need to cut a square or something out in order for all the cords to run out of the box. I’ll find a way to lightproof it.
If I go with the coolers, I will need to find a way to cut some 4 inch holes in the lid for the net pots.
I’ll also want a water level indicator, a hole in the top for feeding, a hole in the top for the water pump and UV sterilizer cords to come out, and holes in the side for the air hoses.

The consensus seems to be that a Dremel will not do the jobs required, but would be alright for touch ups. I’ll skip the Dremel for now then.
For the holes in the cooler, the consensus seems to be a 4 inch hole saw attachment for my power drill.
For cutting into the cabinet itself I’ve heard: Jigsaw, saber saw, or skill saw. Looking like I'm leaning towards jigsaw for the time being.

Which of the three would be the best for doing what I need? Please remember that I’m a woodworking/cabinet-building n00b.

I’m also debating just skipping the coolers and using regular old Rubbermaid containers. Seems like a lot less hassle and expense…


Thanks for all the input so far everyone

 

[DiscoBiscuit]

looks good. looking forward to seeing it in action.

 

[Phillthy]

Dremels kick ass and every home should have one. I do dogs nails with them as well as a ton of odd lil jobs. However for cutting holes and such, I would get a corded Craftsmen drill on sale and a hole saw drill bit kit. Run you about $25 bucks total and should be able to do holes 1.4 inch up to 3 inch or so. They make bigger but the kit would cost more.

 

[Crash-n-Burn]

First off, DEFINITELY don't try to mod your cab with a Dremel. You'll only end up pissed off. You can get a lower-end power drill for peanuts. For any kind of real sawing, grab a jigsaw. Get stuff that plugs in. Cordless is convenient, but it's nowhere near as powerful for the money.

Check Harbor Freight for hole saws. Their stuff is dirt cheap. It won't hold up to constant use but if you're just using it to build a cab...

Talking about modding a TD2 to grow herb... Check out this thread. It's not mine but I think it's a friggin' MASTERPIECE... http://www.growkind.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29240

I will tell you the number one thing I have learned from modding a prefab cabinet to
grow herb... It's MUCH easier to just build it from scratch. You might not think so when you look at it right off the bat because all you have to do is to put the pieces together, but it's MUCH easier to figure out what you're wanting to do and then design and build the cabinet around your needs than it is to try to shove your needs into the premade cabinet. You can make it work, but I think I could have saved myself a LOT of frustration by just building something... And I don't know shit about woodworking.

Good luck.

 

[mrred]

a 600 is a good choice, but then why not just build a 3x3 tent for less than 100 bucks? they got a guy in the diy linkorama building one for like 70 bucks

 

[T Arashikage]

looks good. looking forward to seeing it in action.

Thanks, man. Me too.

Dremels kick ass and every home should have one. I do dogs nails with them as well as a ton of odd lil jobs. However for cutting holes and such, I would get a corded Craftsmen drill on sale and a hole saw drill bit kit. Run you about $25 bucks total and should be able to do holes 1.4 inch up to 3 inch or so. They make bigger but the kit would cost more.

I actually already have a cheap Black and Decker power drill/screwdriver. However, I'm thinking of just ditching the coolers and going with rubbermaid containers as reservoirs. It just seems like a lot less hassle.

So I'm thinking I might be able to get by with just a jigsaw.

Thanks for the input.

First off, DEFINITELY don't try to mod your cab with a Dremel. You'll only end up pissed off. You can get a lower-end power drill for peanuts. For any kind of real sawing, grab a jigsaw. Get stuff that plugs in. Cordless is convenient, but it's nowhere near as powerful for the money.

Check Harbor Freight for hole saws. Their stuff is dirt cheap. It won't hold up to constant use but if you're just using it to build a cab...

Talking about modding a TD2 to grow herb... Check out this thread. It's not mine but I think it's a friggin' MASTERPIECE... http://www.growkind.com/forum/showthread.php?t=29240

I will tell you the number one thing I have learned from modding a prefab cabinet to
grow herb... It's MUCH easier to just build it from scratch. You might not think so when you look at it right off the bat because all you have to do is to put the pieces together, but it's MUCH easier to figure out what you're wanting to do and then design and build the cabinet around your needs than it is to try to shove your needs into the premade cabinet. You can make it work, but I think I could have saved myself a LOT of frustration by just building something... And I don't know shit about woodworking.

Good luck.

Will there be a need for a hole saw kit? If I just go with rubbermaid containers for the reservoirs, then the only actual hole/circle I'll have to cut is the 6 inch one for the exhaust.

I checked Harbor Freight and they have some cheap hole saw kits, but the biggest diameter I saw was 5 inches.

That thread you linked is where I got the idea for the TD2. I've been reading almost every thread I can find on building a stealth cab, and that's where I found out about the TD2.

The good thing about this cab is that there isn't much really needed. I mean, I need it to look decent, be stealth, lightproof, somewhat quiet, etc. As just a straight flowering-only cab, there's just not much to it other than what I drew.

IMO my needs will be met with just about anything that's about 4ft x 2ft x 6 or 7ft, and I'd rather buy one so that I know it will look alright (hopefully) rather than try to build one outright and risk ending up with a big pile of scrap wood lol.

Btw, there's another thread that really inspired me. I don't want to link to other forums, but if you google "Custom Fabricated Stealth Grow Box Design, Built for Sativas!!" you should find it alright. One thing about that thread is that it showed me it'd cost about the same amount to build it myself as it would to just buy one like the TD2.

I appreciate all the suggestions. If they ever let me give out rep, I'll be hittin ya up.

a 600 is a good choice, but then why not just build a 3x3 tent for less than 100 bucks? they got a guy in the diy linkorama building one for like 70 bucks

600 as in the light? Yeah, I think it's the best option for my particular space and situation.

As far as a tent goes, I need this cab to sit out and look as if it belongs (stealth). So a tent is out. 3 x 3 is out because my veg chamber is 4ft x 2ft x 4ft. What I'll be doing is starting in the veg chamber until I get the screen about 50-70 percent full, then moving it to the flowering cab.

The screen will be as big as I can get it and still have it fit inside the veg chamber, in order to maximize the amount of space I have. So, the flowering cab will need to be at least 4ft x 2ft x 6 or 7ft.

The reasons I'm looking for a pre-fab cab as opposed to building one from scratch I think I hit on above.

Thanks for the suggestions though, man.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

A 6" hole saw and mandrel can be found at HomedePot or Lowes for about $30-40 USD.
Trust me, these are mans tools, and it takes a good man to run them. A 6" hole saw will tear your arm off fast if you are not paying attention. Trust me...they will whirl you up fast. UNLESS, you have the proper drill behind them. Especially when making their initial breakthrough to the other side of the material. Best to use these in a stationary drill press if possible, but if not, then you will do well with a variable speed 1/2" chuck drill that has an additional 90deg handle on it. Milwaukee makes a nice one that is at Home dePot or Lowes.

I am in the camp that feels it is much easier, and cheaper, to use a pre-fabbed cab to build from. No way you can build the same as a Store-it-all for the money.
And it only takes plans. To SCALE plans.
Granted using a drawing program like Autocad is the best route, but a ruler and some graph paper can do the same job.

Using a pre-fabbed cab, you can have your grow going in about 1/4th of the time it will take to build the same on your own, and no where near the expense.
The cab in my sig line can be found for $110 out the door.