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Bud Rot Suggestions - UVC?

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Am in late flower and had to deal with spider mites a couple of weeks ago and now have bud rot. Any suggestions appreciated. Sprayed with liquid copper and have fans on high and humidity at 45%. I have a number of fungus cures but wondering what works best. Would prefer to go 2 more weeks, but will cut if I have to.

Has anyone used UVC light?? Saw article that claimed ten minutes before lights out will get rid of it, using once or twice a week. Some produce ozone? Is that bad. Figure at only ten minutes it should not be an issue.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Don't think I would smoke buds sprayed with copper. :hide:
Says safe to day of harvest. Label says safe on tobacco till harvest. Extremely little in it and 1900F melting point. Found elsewhere to use greencure which I have, which will probably wash off any residual copper. Thank you for bringing up the possibility.
 

Koondense

Well-known member
Veteran
Use peroxide but early enough, not in late flower.
Mold is also promoted by little spiders and nets, they damage the plant leaves, they start dying quicker inside the buds with no aeration and you get mold from budrot.
Uvc makes ozone and damages cells(also yours), you can also destroy some THC in the trichomes.
I would cut the moldy parts and leave the rest for another week if you feel they can use more time. Otherwise just harvest it all and learn for next time.
All the best
 

OldGrowOG

Member
Yes important to pre clean before flowering, Regular water rinses really help, and if hydrogen peroxide and Regular water rinses fail. Dispose of it properly.

Never raise pest and fungal issue plants. Get rid of it asap. 💯🕊
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Use peroxide but early enough, not in late flower.
Mold is also promoted by little spiders and nets, they damage the plant leaves, they start dying quicker inside the buds with no aeration and you get mold from budrot.
Uvc makes ozone and damages cells(also yours), you can also destroy some THC in the trichomes.
I would cut the moldy parts and leave the rest for another week if you feel they can use more time. Otherwise just harvest it all and learn for next time.
All the best
The UVC is 25 watts ozone free (still produces minor amount) and would be used for 10 minutes every 3 days in sealed tent.

If I have to cut it all, can it be frozen right away to hopefully kill mold so it does not spread while drying.

Bastard on strainly who advertises no bugs, has been sending out clones with 2 spot spider mites that seem immune to all common remedies for almost a year.

I have a light that is not supposed to be looked at and was told to run 15 minutes when lights on and 15 minutes at lights off to trigger resin production and know it is red spectrum. Is that UVC?? No markings and bought several years ago so does not show up in ebay history.
 
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OldGrowOG

Member
Agree , these two spotted spider mite indoors are misleading us into thinking it's working.

There's been talk that a 7 to 10% hydrogen peroxide will kill spider mites, and not damage the plants, I've used straight 3% every 3 days and repeat.

Then rinsing with a 360 spray setting with water, does remove them from the plant eventually.
 

troutman

Seed Whore
If I have to cut it all, can it be frozen right away to hopefully kill mold so it does not spread while drying.

Mold spores are probably everywhere in the room. Regardless, what you do it would be
a good idea after this grow to get rid of all your soil, clean everything very good with
a dilute bleach spray that is sold in cleaning supply section of stores and wait a little
before starting up again. Ongoing grows that overlap are accidents waiting to happen.
In the meantime, search online for causes of bud rot and apply some of those suggestions.

Read my post here how I naturally deal with botrytis and more. :ninja:

 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Mold spores are probably everywhere in the room. Regardless, what you do it would be
a good idea after this grow to get rid of all your soil, clean everything very good with
a dilute bleach spray that is sold in cleaning supply section of stores and wait a little
before starting up again. Ongoing grows that overlap are accidents waiting to happen.
In the meantime, search online for causes of bud rot and apply some of those suggestions.

Read my post here how I naturally deal with botrytis and more. :ninja:

Researching is all I have been doing. Was a product "bud rot stop" that claimed it cured it, but can not find anywhere. I have great white from DWC days. How do you use it, in feed or spray?? Growing in coir so usually dispose of it. If I did reuse would pasteurize it. Have plenty of sanitizers from mushroom growing.

Researching the things I have - Serenade garden disease control, procidic, flying skull nukem, greencure, and actinovate.

No new mold but some browning.
 

dramamine

Well-known member
I think I would just cut the buds off that have the molded parts and keep an eye on the rest. Cut early if you have to. Hopefully you can bring most of it in.
 

Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The compost pile is the best place :D. You will need to inspect well on any flower before you use any. You need to fix your environment. Low RH% with a high Air exchange. Botrytis is from excessive moisture inside the flower. There is Nothing that you can spray to fix botrytis.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Mold spores are probably everywhere in the room. Regardless, what you do it would be
a good idea after this grow to get rid of all your soil, clean everything very good with
a dilute bleach spray that is sold in cleaning supply section of stores and wait a little
before starting up again. Ongoing grows that overlap are accidents waiting to happen.
In the meantime, search online for causes of bud rot and apply some of those suggestions.

Read my post here how I naturally deal with botrytis and more. :ninja:

Do you have any experience with Procidic?? Claims it kills on contact and enters plant then works its way up protecting the plant- https://www.arbico-organics.com/pro...ngicide/natural-organic-plant-disease-control
 

troutman

Seed Whore
I have great white from DWC days. How do you use it, in feed or spray??

Just like watering a plant. ;)

To use indoors, I add a little powder to a liter of water that has been sitting
around for a few days to remove the chlorine, stir and then apply.
 

troutman

Seed Whore
Another thing to consider is HEPA filtration, or at least some small particle filtration system. The less spores in circulation the lower chance to get mold.
Cheers

I like this affordable unit and can see myself getting one or something very similar for extra protection.

GermGuardian HEPA Filter​

Traps Allergens: HEPA Filter captures 99.97% of dust and allergens as small as .3 microns such as household dust, pet dander, mold spores and plant pollens.
 
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Hammerhead

Disabled Farmer
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Nothing used to control Power mildew will have any effect on Botrytis.

Botrytis is a systemic mold infection in Cannabis. This mold is often called “Bud Rot” or “grey mold”. It can remain cryptic or dormant for long periods of time before it sporulates. youPCR can be used to detect this systemic infection before it spreads to other plants. Plants testing positive can be removed from grows. DNA based techniques are very sensitive and can detect the infection long before it is visible. There is no cure
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Nothing used to control Power mildew will have any effect on Botrytis.

Botrytis is a systemic mold infection in Cannabis. This mold is often called “Bud Rot” or “grey mold”. It can remain cryptic or dormant for long periods of time before it sporulates. youPCR can be used to detect this systemic infection before it spreads to other plants. Plants testing positive can be removed from grows. DNA based techniques are very sensitive and can detect the infection long before it is visible. There is no cure
I checked their site and get page not found on the product. Any suggestion on a reasonably priced lab in CA that tests for diseases and mold?
 

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