Broad Mites?

[oldmanriver1]

neem is antifungul and antibacterial . I just did my 2nd heat treatment in last 2 weeks , sprayed ogb [ 3rd time in 2 weeks ] and have my fingers crossed.A few of my girls are still looking pretty shite but 70% are looking good. I have a product called stealth { the aussie eqiv of avid with the active ingred being abactamin ] .I am hoping not to use it i have avoided chems so far but this shits getting so old.

Also i will be coating the base of stems of girls with fine milled diametoceaus earth ,which basically kills anything with a carapace that crawls over it , the stuff gets inside and physically chops it up , good for lots pests .Hope to be posting some happy stuff in a few. peace\

 

[oldmanriver1]

just a quick shoutout to retro , thanks a bunch , ur posts have been a big help , muchos appreciated

 

[eric2028]

I have to say, I dont believe the OG Biowar is doing anything to control broad mites. It is obvious that whenever I let more than 3-4 weeks go by without a heat treatment, I will start to find damage. I was spraying OG Biowar every week and spraying a combo of spinosad and azamax every other week. The spraying alone was not enough to control BM.

you have to spray ogbw twice a week for an active infestation. I didn't think it worked either till I started 2x a week. good luck

 

[justwatchin]

I've read all these pages and kinda fast forwarded through 166 to here bc of BS but I've only seen one mention of this species as a predatory mite species where the user reports success...

Has anyone else effectively used this species against these bastards? Amblyseius swirskii

I'm doing allot of reading and it seems this species has effectively destroyed broad mite infestations and a couple other pest like whitefly where chemicals and pesticides have been less effective. Im really thinking of ordering a $25 dollar satchel n misting 2x a day for a few weeks. Seems these predators are very effective in greenhouses and land plots with many crops.

 

[RetroGrow]

https://www.icmag.com/ic/search.php?searchthreadid=228387

 

[Some old dude]

My advise

My advise

I've read all these pages and kinda fast forwarded through 166 to here bc of BS but I've only seen one mention of this species as a predatory mite species where the user reports success...

Has anyone else effectively used this species against these bastards? Amblyseius swirskii

I'm doing allot of reading and it seems this species has effectively destroyed broad mite infestations and a couple other pest like whitefly where chemicals and pesticides have been less effective. Im really thinking of ordering a $25 dollar satchel n misting 2x a day for a few weeks. Seems these predators are very effective in greenhouses and land plots with many crops.

This may be my last post on this subject. I would like to say to those who have yet to fully understand this little (and I mean little pest) Somehow people I believe have the wrong information if your sure you have this pest you can't just treat it especially in flower and expect to get anywhere near normal harvest in fact you mite as well trash and start over. Because you will have duds.And you will have duds for a long time(BECAUSE THE TOXIN STAYS IN YOUR MOTHER PLANTS IF YOU USE OR KEEP MOTHERS A VERY LONG TIME) depending on strain if you have most og's like cali conn's forget it. Aspirin mitigates the effect of the toxins the broad mite excretes to some extent and this is your call in the end. I decided to try swirski mites after reading about them they seemed to work well enough I observed them running around on plants (as I put them in my yard outside grow room as well as inside on grow room plants) Like they where starving to death on tweek. I did not stop there as I had been battling these bastards for years I then read about "Heat treatments" and after, I thought well nothing can live through that. But in my experience I somehow knew they could be back at any time. Then I read about OGB so I tried that ( I did not see any mite activity after the swirskiis) But this means nothing is my point about this pest. You may think they are completely gone and If you don't continue a "maintenance program" Chemical or natural "Safe"( I prefer Safe non toxic) you will be pulling out your hair again in a matter of six or nine or twelve months. One thing I think I have learned . The OGB I believe works, not so much as a One day kill and you never have to worry again (And nothing does this) If someone says different they my friend are in fact lying.The OGB actually kills them over time and more important keeps them away like mountain lion piss will keep deers and other leaf eating animals away from outdoor grows (I believe) much like a natural defense of a fungal substance would work to counter bugs that would decimate the entire plant species in nature. I have not observed any mites or damage in the best part of a year now and after starting the OGB some of my mothers that where affected by the "dud syndrome" started looking very healthy "CONTINUALLY" now.As soon as I started using the OGB I noticed a difference unlike All the chems and other methods I had used till that point. I am in no way affiliated with OGB and if the mites return I will be the first to post it here. .I am sorry I am not more absolute with my answer but this is my point I simply gave what appears to have worked for me. I proudly claim this style of BM elimination and maintenance as The "Bro-Science-Technique" There is no "Magic Bullet" IMHO. All the very best to all, and Good Luck with your battles.

 

[StudenTeacher]

Originally posted by Retrogrow
First thing: there is no reason to use 5 gallon pots with coco, if you use Hempy buckets. A 2 gallon Hempy bucket will produce a one pound plant if you veg for two months and feed daily, strain dependent of course. Save on coco and improve yields dramatically by switching to Hempy buckets. Use K.I.S.S. method with them for stellar results. The key is daily (or more, ie., drip system) feedings, which provide fresh oxygen which stimulates growth.
#2: If you can't move plants around, or bend them to keep the tops away from room lights, there are other ways to heat rooms. Space heaters, or these new heaters which are made especially for this purpose:
you can find them @ pestheat.com. Don't know how much they cost, but it's the same principle as using a space heater. Just do not have fans blowing hot air on flowers.
Thanks for the info on the heaters. Im not sure if i turned off my oscillating fans so maybe that was part of the problem.

I wanted to elaborate on my coco technique for a sec. Hempy buckets are great (outside of the standing water issue) and I understand the concept of 'hydro' style coco grows and the increased rate of growth, but unfortunately this option just isn't as safe for me in my particular situation. I have grown in coco and watered 4 times daily on a dripper from clone to finish with excellent results.
The idea behind the large pots is to use the coco medium in a soil like fashion rather than 'hydro'. I can water daily and everything is great but with larger than normal size pots I have an extra day of leeway if needed. You see , I'm a long time hydro grower looking for something a little safer and less stressful and I dont want to have to worry everyday about pumps, and timers, and floods, and power outages, etc. I start rooted clones in 2 gallon bags filled up about 3/4 of the way. They get a drip once a day. I show up to garden every two days. If for some reason there is a problem,i.e. power outage, unplugged pump, etc, I can hand water and be set for another two days. After 10-14 days of veg the pants go into 5 gallon bags. With all the extra unneeded coco things stay pretty wet and rate of growth is still excellent, although not quite as fast as hydro due to slightly less oxygen in the medium. I make up for this by growing one or two additional plants under each light. I got the idea from indoor soil growers that can still achieve 2lbs a kw having to deal with a slower rate of growth. More plants = higher yield so many of them say. Of course hydro growers know this isn't true. High yield to me = full uniform canopy. Anyways i'm not so young anymore so bigger and faster just doesn't have the same appeal as safe and steady
Retro I think you have the right idea pushing the KISS method of growing. A lot of folks use up a lot of extra time and energy complicating things.

 

[RetroGrow]

Originally posted by Retrogrow
First thing: there is no reason to use 5 gallon pots with coco, if you use Hempy buckets. A 2 gallon Hempy bucket will produce a one pound plant if you veg for two months and feed daily, strain dependent of course. Save on coco and improve yields dramatically by switching to Hempy buckets. Use K.I.S.S. method with them for stellar results. The key is daily (or more, ie., drip system) feedings, which provide fresh oxygen which stimulates growth.
#2: If you can't move plants around, or bend them to keep the tops away from room lights, there are other ways to heat rooms. Space heaters, or these new heaters which are made especially for this purpose:
you can find them @ pestheat.com. Don't know how much they cost, but it's the same principle as using a space heater. Just do not have fans blowing hot air on flowers.

Thanks for the info on the heaters. Im not sure if i turned off my oscillating fans so maybe that was part of the problem.

I wanted to elaborate on my coco technique for a sec. Hempy buckets are great (outside of the standing water issue) and I understand the concept of 'hydro' style coco grows and the increased rate of growth, but unfortunately this option just isn't as safe for me in my particular situation. I have grown in coco and watered 4 times daily on a dripper from clone to finish with excellent results.
The idea behind the large pots is to use the coco medium in a soil like fashion rather than 'hydro'. I can water daily and everything is great but with larger than normal size pots I have an extra day of leeway if needed. You see , I'm a long time hydro grower looking for something a little safer and less stressful and I dont want to have to worry everyday about pumps, and timers, and floods, and power outages, etc. I start rooted clones in 2 gallon bags filled up about 3/4 of the way. They get a drip once a day. I show up to garden every two days. If for some reason there is a problem,i.e. power outage, unplugged pump, etc, I can hand water and be set for another two days. After 10-14 days of veg the pants go into 5 gallon bags. With all the extra unneeded coco things stay pretty wet and rate of growth is still excellent, although not quite as fast as hydro due to slightly less oxygen in the medium. I make up for this by growing one or two additional plants under each light. I got the idea from indoor soil growers that can still achieve 2lbs a kw having to deal with a slower rate of growth. More plants = higher yield so many of them say. Of course hydro growers know this isn't true. High yield to me = full uniform canopy. Anyways i'm not so young anymore so bigger and faster just doesn't have the same appeal as safe and steady
Retro I think you have the right idea pushing the KISS method of growing. A lot of folks use up a lot of extra time and energy complicating things.

Understood. I have used coco every which way, including 5 gallon pots the way you are using them. Just trying to save you money on coco and increase floor space by reducing bucket size. I have grown my biggest plants in 2 gallon Hempys, watered to runoff daily, hence no "standing water" at all. Fresh oxygen daily and vigorous growth, but more labor intensive.
I realize everyone's situation is different. Just making a suggestion in case you never tried Hempys. They rock, and can be watered every third day in 5 gallon pots if daily maintainence is not your thing. Drippers are cool too.

 

[skintner]

Hello all, newbie here...

I just scoped what forever it seems I have been treating as a cal/mag deficiency and these semi transparent fuckers are almost squirming like worms... I can see them moving around under 100x... I have 6 plants that are 7 weeks in flower. They continue to grow (God knows why or how). The squirming fuckers are on a DWC plant that has been in there for only 3 weeks. I am going to borrow a propane heater and crank up the heat.

I wish I had a usb scope for pics but I don't. I just know I can't go on dealing with shit like this. The cancer will kill me before I get a grip.

Thanks, Retro, for making sense in a sea of confusion.

I will report as it goes along. I am just so sick of shit going wrong. And yes, clones from a dispensary. I think I am fucked.

stk

 

[D1904]

In order to be effective as an insecticide, diatomaceous earth must be uncalcinated (i.e., it must not be heat-treated prior to application)[15] and have a mean particle size below about 12 µm (i.e., food-grade— see below).

Although considered to be relatively low-risk, pesticides containing diatomaceous earth are not exempt from regulation in the United States under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act and must be registered with the Environmental Protection Agency.[16]

 

[D1904]

Hello all, newbie here...

I just scoped what forever it seems I have been treating as a cal/mag deficiency and these semi transparent fuckers are almost squirming like worms... I can see them moving around under 100x... I have 6 plants that are 7 weeks in flower. They continue to grow (God knows why or how). The squirming fuckers are on a DWC plant that has been in there for only 3 weeks. I am going to borrow a propane heater and crank up the heat.

I wish I had a usb scope for pics but I don't. I just know I can't go on dealing with shit like this. The cancer will kill me before I get a grip.

Thanks, Retro, for making sense in a sea of confusion.

I will report as it goes along. I am just so sick of shit going wrong. And yes, clones from a dispensary. I think I am fucked.
stk

Every clone I have ever bought off craigslist, had some type of infestation. White Flies, Spider Mites , PM or the dreaded Broad Mites. I will be implementing Storm's approach. Just trying to save a strain out of the bunch. I will never buy clones again, seed only. Unfortunately the last 2 shipments of seeds were confiscated by LA Customs. Bastards.

 

[RetroGrow]

In order to be effective as an insecticide, diatomaceous earth must be uncalcinated (i.e., it must not be heat-treated prior to application)[15] and have a mean particle size below about 12 µm (i.e., food-grade— see below).

Although considered to be relatively low-risk, pesticides containing diatomaceous earth are not exempt from regulation in the United States under the Federal Insecticide, Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act and must be registered with the Environmental Protection Agency.[16]

Diatomaceous earth is not going to stop BMs. They are too small.

 

[D1904]

Diatomaceous earth is not going to stop BMs. They are too small.

Thanks RetroGrow, thanks for your contribution, along with Storm Shadow.

 

[eric2028]

Hello all, newbie here...

I just scoped what forever it seems I have been treating as a cal/mag deficiency and these semi transparent fuckers are almost squirming like worms... I can see them moving around under 100x... I have 6 plants that are 7 weeks in flower. They continue to grow (God knows why or how). The squirming fuckers are on a DWC plant that has been in there for only 3 weeks. I am going to borrow a propane heater and crank up the heat.

I wish I had a usb scope for pics but I don't. I just know I can't go on dealing with shit like this. The cancer will kill me before I get a grip.

Thanks, Retro, for making sense in a sea of confusion.

I will report as it goes along. I am just so sick of shit going wrong. And yes, clones from a dispensary. I think I am fucked.

stk

think I read for heat tx use electric heaters?

 

[nofriend]

OGB and heat

OGB and heat

Biowar:
Thank you everyone for the input on the Biowar. I think I will go back to spraying aerated worm castings tea inoculated with Biowar instead of mixing the Biowar solution and allowing it to settle.

Heat Treat:
Has anyone experimented with lowering the heat to 110-115F? I have moved my plants out of grow tents and into a larger room and am only capable of achieving temperatures in this range. I have noticed that the plants are much more tolerant of this temperature range. When I was using the grow tents to achieve 120F it was easy to let that slip to 123F; a temperature that has harmed my plants. I use a laser thermometer so I can accurately read canopy temperatures. This article suggest that 110F water will kill them:

http://www.missouribotanicalgarden....s/insects/mites/cyclamen-and-broad-mites.aspx

I cant remember if Retrogrow based his 120F air on the 110F water suggestion?

 

[skintner]

I have electric heaters but they all shut off @ 90*... I just bought a radiant propane heater that I *hope* will get the temp up to 120*... if it kills the plants then so be it. 2 weeks from harvest, the buds are nice and sticky and stinky and have a nice WW high already so I might be able to salvage something. I am also spraying the younger plants not yet flowering (one big beautiful WW) with a mix of flea and tick shampoo... It has pyrethrin (??) in it so should kill just about any insect it comes in contact with. I am NOT spraying it on any of the buds...

The cancer is going to kill me if RSO doesn't stop it, so what's a little insecticide gonna hurt lol...

thanks again retro... I know you're just trying to help us.

peace
stk

 

[skintner]

heat treatment

heat treatment

I just turned of the propane heater in the flower room with the temp at 122*, iced the holding tanks of the bubble buckets and started the one hour count-down. The propane heater was on for about 1/2 hour with the door closed. I hope the 1000 watt hps with the fans off will keep the temp up for the required time.

Meanwhile, the wall furnace is running and its getting hot in the other part of the building (where I am now). I have a framed veg room with the white/black plastic that has a 600w mh, a 4 tube T5 and another flourescent on. If the temp isn't there in 20 minutes I will put the propane heater in there for 1/2 hour or 'til it's 120*

Please, retro, tell me that this will kill the damned flies too.

peace
stk

 

[Coconutz]

The relief valve should blow at temps around 125...
But yea, seems dangerous to not read all safety precautions before getting all fucking stoned and trying to kill some bugs

 

[skintner]

paying attention

paying attention

be careful not to get your propane tank too hot

First round is done, both rooms and the building... I will say this: heat treatment doesn't do a thing for pine beetle (stink bugs). They LOVE the heat.

I still saw what appears to be fly larvae wiggling around... I am probably fucked, but I'm going to stay with this bunch for 2 more weeks. The budding plants seem ok. They definitely like the aspirin.

Thanks again... more to come

peace
stk

 

[Coconutz]

0/1? lol

The following are vapor pressures of propane at various temperatures:

70 F = 96 PSI
100 F = 127 PSI
110 F = 230 PSI

The relief valve is supposed to go off at 250PSI.
Depending on how much gas was in the tank at the time you were cutting it close.