Broad mites: ID and Organic Antidotes that work!

[mtntrogger]

Still looking for some help and input from peeps on here. I have opted (not by choice) to restart from seed. I am likely gonna toss my tent , and veg cabs sans lights and exhaust fans. Also gonna tear out the carpet and install wood floors. I really really want to start as clean as I can and need advice on which aerosol bombs I should use in the bedroom that my grow was in. Some don't work on broads, others (most) are not supposed to be used indoors. My bedroom is adjacent to the one I grow in. Was thinking about pylon tr , like 3 times total. Anyone have any other opinions. Avi suggested big time exterminator.... Not sure if its what I need or not . suggestions please and thank you.

 

[mtntrogger]

I used to have a login here....been a looong time. Had to make a new one to say

THANKS FATHERTIME! Great thread. I learned a bit.

I am currently ending a war (I think) on Broad Mites.

I NEVER take clones from people. Got offered a Cup winning Headband clone....the rest is history. Certainly came with BM.


Took me awhile to figure out the problem. I don't ever apply pesticides, not even Neem, because everything runs clean clean clean. No visitors, no outside clones....blah blah blah.

I bought the following products:

AVID
Promis with Imidacloprid
Green Cleaner
Pylon Bombs
Attain Bombs
Azamax
Pyreth-It (had this kicking around. BEST pure form of Pyrethrin you can buy)

I tossed all plants I could afford to. Let the perpetual bloom room go empty. Pruned plants to being very short with minimal foliage.

Sprayed with AVID. Sprayed with AVID mixed with Azamax. Bleached hard. Threw shit out. Bought new shit. Dipped, dunked, sprayed. Bombed. Watered in the Imidcloprid.

Whew.

The just got their first nice lil veg feeding last night. Worst looking plants Ive ever owned. I know I went hard on the pesticides. But this down time is going to hurt.

Wish I had a sick microscope at home. Crappy 60-100x scopes they sell at the grow store arent worth a buck.

I'm convinced you will never see Broad Mites if you never take a clone from someone. Every time I have heard someone getting them, its always from visiting a grow room or taking a clone. I broke one of my own cardinal rules.

Broad mites SUCK!!!! I'll take spider mites any day.

Green Cleaner is a garbage product. FYI.

Question : did you use the pylon and attain bombs in a indoor garden ? Wondering if it's OK in a residence . I really need something do bat cleanup for me before I restart

 

[Lochinvar]

No, a day or two. Period.

Spray some aspirin and see how fast they recover normal growth. What slows down growth is the toxin they inject into the plant to break down plant tissue. Without that toxin, plants go back to growing 100% fine, right away. You will visually see the difference in 2 days.

you are pretty sure of yourself, but you are incorrect

 

[Lochinvar]

sprying aspirin may not be the best application method

 

[blueberrydrumz]

Still looking for some help and input from peeps on here. I have opted (not by choice) to restart from seed. I am likely gonna toss my tent , and veg cabs sans lights and exhaust fans. Also gonna tear out the carpet and install wood floors. I really really want to start as clean as I can and need advice on which aerosol bombs I should use in the bedroom that my grow was in. Some don't work on broads, others (most) are not supposed to be used indoors. My bedroom is adjacent to the one I grow in. Was thinking about pylon tr , like 3 times total. Anyone have any other opinions. Avi suggested big time exterminator.... Not sure if its what I need or not . suggestions please and thank you.

hey,
this seems very radical..
the easiest in your situation would be to heat treat the room!
its very effective... keep the room at 125F for at least one hour..
if you can go up to 130-140, even better,,, do that for 2 hrs just to be sure... there wont be anything a live in there after that..
its what horticortural experts advice as the cheapest and most effective method... saves you a lot of money!!
will kill pests in all stages.. larve to adult!! done simple

 

[50YardLine]

hey,
this seems very radical..
the easiest in your situation would be to heat treat the room!
its very effective... keep the room at 125F for at least one hour..
if you can go up to 130-140, even better,,, do that for 2 hrs just to be sure... there wont be anything a live in there after that..
its what horticortural experts advice as the cheapest and most effective method... saves you a lot of money!!
will kill pests in all stages.. larve to adult!! done simple

This doesn't work at all. Might piss them off, but your not getting the temps high enough. I have a lazer temp gun, and when my greenhouse was at 145F, the leaf surface was only 115, and the bottom of the leaves were 105. Not hot enough, and I don't believe anybody can get their room high enough to kill these things.

A warm water dunk has to be 115 for 5 minutes to be effective. You just can't get temps that high on the surface of the leaves. Not to mention the soil will NEVER reach 115, so the BM's or russets will survive.

People need to stop wasting their time with heat treatments, IMO.

 

[mtntrogger]

hey,
this seems very radical..
the easiest in your situation would be to heat treat the room!
its very effective... keep the room at 125F for at least one hour..
if you can go up to 130-140, even better,,, do that for 2 hrs just to be sure... there wont be anything a live in there after that..
its what horticortural experts advice as the cheapest and most effective method... saves you a lot of money!!
will kill pests in all stages.. larve to adult!! done simple

Thanks for the input blue, I have heated my tent to 122 for a couple of hours. Didn't really seem to help....maybe I need to do it a couple of times ?

 

[mtntrogger]

This doesn't work at all. Might piss them off, but your not getting the temps high enough. I have a lazer temp gun, and when my greenhouse was at 145F, the leaf surface was only 115, and the bottom of the leaves were 105. Not hot enough, and I don't believe anybody can get their room high enough to kill these things.

A warm water dunk has to be 115 for 5 minutes to be effective. You just can't get temps that high on the surface of the leaves. Not to mention the soil will NEVER reach 115, so the BM's or russets will survive.

People need to stop wasting their time with heat treatments, IMO.

Thanks 50 ! Great info /post , very appreciated. So many methods posted here have given me false hope. I know these things will not go easily ,if at all. Even with a complete teardown and restart, as well as laboratory cleanliness and sterilization, I expect to see these shits again..... Just got to be ready.

 

[blueberrydrumz]

hey 50 and mtnt.. i never said keep your plants in there.. i was talking about the room.
mtn said he wants to discard his tent and equipment etc etc..
this works if done properly, if you can get your room to constant 145 for a few hrs this will kill the ones that are in there.
i would then do dunks at 125 with total submersion... i have done this and it works well.. cant say for broads but for everthing else... dont know if i had broads.. could have also been the root aphids that gave the plants burnt hairs and left them unmature.. no resin and "naked" buds.
only the strong & healthy plants will survive submersion..
you then have a good chance of treating the plants with other programs and keeping them isolated on them so they cant spread again... try taking double sided carpet tape and make a boarder around your pots.. they wont make it across and stick to it and die once they want to migrate
Heat treatment is just part of the programm..

 

[mtntrogger]

Thanks for clearing that up blue. I no longer need to try the dunk technique, as all my plants have expired due to the destruction of these buggers. However I might give the heat treatment a shot for my room . the tent has gotten kind of beat up from repeated bleach cleaning, as o have bleached the tent between every cycle as a preventative long before I noticed a problem. Thanks again for the post ! All opinions are welcome and appreciated. Just want to learn more and hopefully win a clean garden after all this.

 

[Terpz]

Great thread with good info. Thanks all!
I have (1) strain I suspect has BMs.


I have examined the underside of the leaves with a 200x scope, many many times but cannot, for the life of me, see anything moving.? I have identified spider and russet mites in many different setting using a scope so I am aware of what to usually look for.
I do see abnormal white dots, what almost appear as eggs. If those are eggs, why have I not seen any adults moving? Can anyone help make sense of what I am looking at here?

(In the photo on far right notice the yellowing)

 

[CCfromTCC]

Never had broad mites and I never will, reading these threads has made me so scared I'm done accepting any cuts that come from cali, lol

 

[50YardLine]

Thanks for clearing that up blue. I no longer need to try the dunk technique, as all my plants have expired due to the destruction of these buggers. However I might give the heat treatment a shot for my room . the tent has gotten kind of beat up from repeated bleach cleaning, as o have bleached the tent between every cycle as a preventative long before I noticed a problem. Thanks again for the post ! All opinions are welcome and appreciated. Just want to learn more and hopefully win a clean garden after all this.

If your going to try heating the room with no plants, that might work. However I suggest warm water mist. I have an atomizer I use for battleing bugs, both indoors and out. I would take 170F+ water and drench everything. Then follow up with a bleaching of everything. These bugs don't survive long without plant material, so you stand a much better chance without plants in total inhalation.

I suggest people start learning form the pros. Subscribe to a couple professional agriculture mags, twitter feeds, Facebook, IG. Find out why different miticides have different classifications, and why that's important. Find out the products they use to "controll," key word, russet and broad mites.

I have a IMP program worked out for the next 12-24 months, however I don't post that info online, too many people that misuse miticides. I can tell you 100% for sure, my program does not include Avid, florimite, or the normal miticides. Find a different class miticide if you need to go nuclear. AND STOP CREATING SUPER BUGS!!!!

Many organic solutions are coming to the forefront of this battle also. I had amazing success with OG Bio War foliar pack at almost double the strength. Regalia, all though not listed for BM's/russets, does a great job knocking back the mite.

However, if you need to rid your plants and grow room of BM's or russets, it's time for a cold war, gone HOT!

 

[50YardLine]

Great thread with good info. Thanks all!
I have (1) strain I suspect has BMs.
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=63407&pictureid=1504059&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=63407&pictureid=1504060&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

I have examined the underside of the leaves with a 200x scope, many many times but cannot, for the life of me, see anything moving.? I have identified spider and russet mites in many different setting using a scope so I am aware of what to usually look for.
I do see abnormal white dots, what almost appear as eggs. If those are eggs, why have I not seen any adults moving? Can anyone help make sense of what I am looking at here?
[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=63407&pictureid=1512268&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=63407&pictureid=1512269&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=63407&pictureid=1512270&thumb=1]View Image[/url]
(In the photo on far right notice the yellowing)

Those pictures are not 200x are they? I don't see any bugs, but I like to magnify more than that. I use a 100x scope, and it appears much closer....? When looking for bugs, and I see a leaf like yours, I also like to scope the stem, and even the stock, going to that branch. Often I find they are at the nodes, and not spread to the leaves quite yet. Good luck.

 

[mtntrogger]

If your going to try heating the room with no plants, that might work. However I suggest warm water mist. I have an atomizer I use for battleing bugs, both indoors and out. I would take 170F+ water and drench everything. Then follow up with a bleaching of everything. These bugs don't survive long without plant material, so you stand a much better chance without plants in total inhalation.

I suggest people start learning form the pros. Subscribe to a couple professional agriculture mags, twitter feeds, Facebook, IG. Find out why different miticides have different classifications, and why that's important. Find out the products they use to "controll," key word, russet and broad mites.

I have a IMP program worked out for the next 12-24 months, however I don't post that info online, too many people that misuse miticides. I can tell you 100% for sure, my program does not include Avid, florimite, or the normal miticides. Find a different class miticide if you need to go nuclear. AND STOP CREATING SUPER BUGS!!!!

Many organic solutions are coming to the forefront of this battle also. I had amazing success with OG Bio War foliar pack at almost double the strength. Regalia, all though not listed for BM's/russets, does a great job knocking back the mite.

However, if you need to rid your plants and grow room of BM's or russets, it's time for a cold war, gone HOT!

Thanks again for your input 50. I have been to many "pro" sites , mostly non weed sites too, and have spent literally hundreds of hours trying to learn everything possible about them. There are definitely some conflicting opinions about the life cycle and treatment of these pests. I will try the steam/boiling water to sanitize , alternated with bleach wiring. Question for ya fiddy : what scope do you use ?

 

[50YardLine]

Thanks again for your input 50. I have been to many "pro" sites , mostly non weed sites too, and have spent literally hundreds of hours trying to learn everything possible about them. There are definitely some conflicting opinions about the life cycle and treatment of these pests. I will try the steam/boiling water to sanitize , alternated with bleach wiring. Question for ya fiddy : what scope do you use ?

I find if trying to find life cycle info, check the universities. Davis has some great trials to read up on.

I have many scopes, but the ones I like the best are......

Plugable USB 2.0 Handheld Digital Microscope - Great for samples brought back to the office space. I have it hooked to my lab top for field viewing, but it's a pain in the ass.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFH3IN4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Carson MicroBrite Plus 60x-120x Power LED Lighted Pocket Microscope (MM-300) - Great field of view, strong magnification. Hard to use on growing plants, but pull a leaf off and view it on a hard surface anywhere.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LAX52IQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Mini 60x LED UV Light Pocket Microscope Jeweler Currency Magnifier Adjustable Loupe - A cheapy. You get what you pay for. However it does a good job, with a clear field of view for what you pay for. Works great in the field on growing plants, very portable. Also has a black light, which detects fake bills. Also very cool to look at things microscopically, under a black light.

Hope this helps.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQAANDS?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

 

[Avinash.miles]

Never had broad mites and I never will, reading these threads has made me so scared I'm done accepting any cuts that come from cali, lol

sounds like you are assuming that cali is the sole source of broads & HRM's.... might want to re-evaluate that belief and act accordingly ifyou want to "never" have them.

 

[milkyjoe]

No shit.

They wiped out plenty of od crops in western CO this yr. And the local hydro store is selling mighty wash to fight them...I don't even walk in that place anymore...but I expect the local prob to get worse before better

 

[mtntrogger]

Yesterday was a hard day for me. I went ahead and tossed the tent and all 3 homemade veg cabs, as well as any pots , drain trays and ducting. I DID save the lights, fans , filters and cords from all rooms. Next step will be sterilization. On another site some one recommended using hot (170 f ) water followed by bleach on all gear. I am thinking about a steam wand... I just dont want to ruin any sensitive electronics, but want to be sure I get em all. was also told that they dont live long without a host plant.. but I dont know about that. I want to be certain that they have been eliminated from my environment before I restart from seed. Here is a few shots from the scope that I took yesterday. This is a leaf from a Ox plant that was hanging on til I the "big basura fest" went down. Anyone have any opinions on which mite im looking at ? hrm or broad.. im thinking these are broads

 

[mojave green]

The answer that most refuse to listen to is: quit bringing outside clones into your garden!