Broad mite thread ?

[chronic82]

Am I the only one that thinks the broad mite thread that is stickied needs deleted? It’s the most uninformative thread in existence. The only solution that anyone posted that would be effective was og biowar and that shit is full of avid and fails tests. Literally anytime any posted a solution besides og biowar they were immediately shot down and bashed. And nowhere in the thread does it mention how the og biowar contains avid. I would hate for uniformed growers to take advice from this thread and poison themselves or others.

 

[Oliver Pantsoff]

OGBiowar contains avid?! 1st time I'm hearing this. Hmmm, I dont think so man. I could be wrong, but can you provide some proof?? I use OGBiowar, and it works very well...Waiting............

OP

 

[chronic82]

It’s on the stop sale list in Oregon because it contains spinsoad. Google it

 

[chronic82]

Here’s proof

 

[chronic82]

There is literally 12 hours worth of reading in the broad mite thread and there is maybe 10 posts that have useful information

 

[Oliver Pantsoff]

Thanks for the info, but spinsoad is not avid. The active ingredient in avid is abamectin. Guess I gotta dig around for more info on this.

OP

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Start a new thread with correct information, plainly stating how OGBiowar is not allowed in some areas. Keep it on track with great info and it will eventually be a contender for the 'new' sticky.

At this point, bring it up with the mods.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I know how to get rid of regular mites rather easily. I have not read anything solid on removing broad/russet mites.

Anyone know any solid data on this?

 

[chronic82]

For large commercial grows heat is the best option. Get room to 120 leave it there for an hour. This shouldn’t be hard if you have a room packed with lights. Do this right after watering.

For small scale growers you should just cull everything and bleach/ sterilize and start over using a good preventative. There is this stuff called trifecta that is 2% citric acid with a bunch of essential oils extracts. This stuff works my brother takes clones straight out of dispensary’s and only uses this stuff and he has never had a bug problem. I’ve also heard from one of the top rec producers in my state that micronized wettable sulfur works great too. He said use 14 grams per gallon of water with some wetting agent spray every 3 days for 3 treatments total.

 

[chronic82]

Forbid works if you’re willing to go the toxic route. This stuff provides about 90 coverage for broads/ russets so you want to stop spraying about 3 weeks before flip and your plants will be set until harvest. I’ve actually seen two spotted mites come back at 80 days after spray so I’m sure most the toxins are gone and the buds are probably safe to smoke. Wierd how this stuff works better on broad/ russets then two spotted mites. Must have something to do with the part of the plant they feed on

 

[green-genes77]

I manage IPM at a Tier 2 in Oregon and, contaminated or not, OG Biowar has always struck me as overpriced and highly dependent on the temperature during transit/time of year for its level of efficacy. There's an outfit in Corvallis that sells a very similar product in liquid form for a fraction of the cost anyway.

We had a small outbreak of broads last year on some new-to-us plants from clone. We applied micronized wettable sulfur at one ounce per gallon three times on day 1, day 5 and day 10. The microscope revealed only dead bodies and no movement so we rinsed the plants thoroughly with a little yucca and unleashed a moderate amount of Amblyseius andersoni. Haven't seen them since. The entire treatment cost us less than $100, labor included, for ~180 plants.

Just be careful not to layer sulfur and suffocating oil products or you risk substantial phytotoxic response.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I haven't personally had them yet, but this is interesting. Thank you.

- 120F for an hour, right after watering
I can see where this would kill both insects and their eggs. The plants will want mass amounts of water for cooling, so transpiration will go up dramatically for a short while. This will also spike humidity, which would help with the heat but I imagine will also continue for a bit as the plants cool down. Very interesting.

- Cull everything, bleach, sterilize, start over
If it works, it works. A bit extreme and not very practical though, especially when genetic preservation is wanted. Any suggestions on bleach/water recommendations? I've not attacked mites with bleach before.

- Trifecta a 2% citric acid and essential oils extracts
Has he used it to clean clones known to have mites? Anyone have references to this working successfully?

- Micronized Wettable Sulfur, 14g/gallon with wetting agent. Spray every 3 days for 3 treatments
This treatment was recommended specifically for broad/russet? Does this also kill eggs, or is the egg incubation time as quick as 9 days? I can see this method being useful in veg and early flower. Definitely have to thoroughly drench the plants, which also means covering soil/media containers. I wouldn't want to do this in late flower.

Forbid is strictly for ornamental plants only. It is systemic and people make concentrates. I personally will not contribute to the use of it.

 

[chronic82]

When I mix bleach/water for cleaning I think the stronger the better. My ratio is probably close to 50%. I wear a respirator and gloves and have ventilation running.

No he hasn’t used the trifecta on verified broad mite plants. But the places he’s taken clones out of are known broad mite factories.

Me personally when I got them I was lucky and had all my strains backed up by a buddy so I just culled everything and got clean clones back.

Sounds like this wettable sulfur is the go to for the commercial guys in Oregon that have to grow stuff that passes test

 

[chronic82]

I know people that have successfully fought them with flying skull nuke em. It’s active ingredient is citric acid at .5%. That’s why I think the trifecta is so effective. It has 4 times the citric acid plus a bunch of essential oils

 

[plumsmooth]

I manage IPM at a Tier 2 in Oregon and, contaminated or not, OG Biowar has always struck me as overpriced and highly dependent on the temperature during transit/time of year for its level of efficacy. There's an outfit in Corvallis that sells a very similar product in liquid form for a fraction of the cost anyway.

We had a small outbreak of broads last year on some new-to-us plants from clone. We applied micronized wettable sulfur at one ounce per gallon three times on day 1, day 5 and day 10. The microscope revealed only dead bodies and no movement so we rinsed the plants thoroughly with a little yucca and unleashed a moderate amount of Amblyseius andersoni. Haven't seen them since. The entire treatment cost us less than $100, labor included, for ~180 plants.

Just be careful not to layer sulfur and suffocating oil products or you risk substantial phytotoxic response.

There must be a protocol of alternating faster between the two? Like a soap rinse followed by a water rinse then next day sulfur?