Botanicals

[Scrappy4]

I thought I would start a thread on all things botanical used in conjunction with growing our herbs, and see where it goes. Simply put plants used for feeding our plants or used for insect controls.

I think by now we know the more popular ones, like comfrey, nettles, alfalfa, kelp, yarrow and so on. Although we should still discuss these guys. Where to buy, how to grow, how to use etc.

I'll start with a link to holy basil. I recently just heard of it, and have no direct knowledge of it, but it seems like it could be good for us health wise and it might make an effective insecticide. How many store bought insecticides can say that?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ocimum_tenuiflorum

scrappy

 

[OrganicOzarks]

Horsetail Grass

 

[schwagg]

good idea scrappy. i was planning on ordering this set of three different ones.

http://www.horizonherbs.com/product.asp?specific=903

should be a fun spring and summer to waste aphids and mites!

 

[Scrappy4]

Where to buy holy basil.
http://www.mountainroseherbs.com/learn/Holy_basil.php

Where to get seeds.
http://www.horizonherbs.com/product.asp?specific=jposdsc8

Description lifted from horizon herbs web site.








"_TULSI SEED SET" (3 seed packets): Holy Basils--Krishna Tulsi, Rama Tulsi, & Kapoor Tulsi, organic





The TULSI set consists of three 50 seed packets of Holy Basil (Tulsi) used to make the health-promoting tea in ayurvedic medicine. These are: The purple leaved Krishna Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum), the purple stemmed Rama Tulsi (Ocimum sanctum), and the green-leaved Kapoor Basil (Ocimum sanctum). All are sensitive to frost and should be kept warm and in the light. One of the advantages of planting all three types is to determine which one does best in your area, and another advantage is to simply experience the beauty, aromatics, medicinal and spiritual attributes of these most excellent and holy tea basils. Planting them by your doorstep is said to bring good luck, and we here at Horizon Herbs have found this to be so. Tulsi is considered to be adaptogenic in its effects, and among the many documented uses are the following: stress reduction, immune enhancement, promoting longevity, improving metabolic oxygenation, increasing endurance, fighting infections, and improving digestion. Tulsi is also a rich source of bioavailable vitamins and minerals. These are full-sized packets (50 seeds KRSNA, 50 seeds RAMA, 50 seeds KAPOOR) and this set is offered at a discount. AUM SHANTI AUM SHANTI AUM

A note on indoor germination and cultivation of Tulsi. Instructions are printed on every packet, but space is limited, so here is some more advice, to help assure your success. Sow the seeds in good quality potting soil, barely beneath the surface, and tamp well. Keep evenly moist, very warm and in the light until germination. Kapoor germinates in about 5 days, while Krishna and Rama can easily take 3 weeks to germinate. Once they attain their second set of leaves, thin seedlings to 2 inches apart. Keep seedlings warm and in the light, and water when the surface of the soil becomes dry. Watering too much during early phases will cause damping off, so this must be avoided. Individuate seedlings to their own pots when they reach about 3 inches tall. Most plants require at least 8 hours of direct sunlight per day for optimal growth, and Tulsi is no exception. Cool, wet, and shady conditions are not conducive to healthy development. Tulsi grows best in the summer garden or in a greenhouse environment. Lacking these conditions, a solarium or very bright south facing window may be adequate. Growing Tulsi during the winter will require grow lights. You can purchase T-5 growlights online that will work quite well. Keep the light 18 inches above the top leaf, and keep the light on the plants for at least 8 hours per day. Keep plants nipped back if they get leggy or go to flower very quickly. It works best to plant 1 plant per gallon pot. If the plants are potted up with organic compost, then they should have enough nutrients to stay healthy for some time. If they begin to yellow or look unhealthy, then fertilize once every 2 weeks with compost tea, comfrey leaf tea, dilute fish emulsion or other organic liquid fertilizer, or heap additional organic compost around the stems and water through the compost to feed the plants. This is a good way to keep some healthy individuals for worship or for ongoing harvest for fresh leaves or for tea.

From rose mountain herbs.

Holy Basil (Tulsi) Herb Profile



Also known as

Tulsi, Tulasi (Sanskrit name), Ocimum sanctum


Introduction

Holy Basil has been revered for its medicinal value throughout India for thousands of years. Ayurvedic texts describe Holy Basil as a pillar of holistic herbal medicine and a goddess incarnated in plant form (the mother medicine of nature). Many traditional Hindus worship an alter bearing a Holy Basil plant that is placed in the courtyard of their home or in another prominent location. Today Holy Basil remains one of the most cherished of India's sacred healing plants. The leaves smell of peppermint, cloves, licorice and/or lemon.
There are three types of Tulsi sold by Mountain Rose Herbs: Krishna, Rama, and Vana. Rama and Krishna are of the same species. All varieties belong to the mint family and are cousins of sweet basil.
Krishna (Ocimum teniflorum) is known for its medicinal value and peppery crisp taste. The plant has dark green to purple leaves, stems, and blossoms. It is cultivated in the Indian plains, as well as private homes and gardens around India, and is named after the blue skinned God as the dark purple leaves resemble this color.
Rama (Ocimum teniflorum) is known for its cooling and mellow flavor. The plant has green leaves, white-to-purplish blossoms, and a green or purplish stem. It is cultivated in the Indian plains, as well as private homes and gardens around India.
Vana (Ocimum gratissimum), aka. "forest type", is known for its fragrance. The plant has green leaves and stem, with white blossoms. It is found in the Himalayas and plains of India. Grows wild in Asia and Africa and is used medicinally there as well.


Constituents

Eugenol, B-caryophyllene, sesquiterpenes, monoterpenes, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), carotene (vitamin A), calcium, iron, and selenium, as well as zinc, manganese, and sodium as trace elements.


Parts Used

The leaf is generally the only part used in a medicinal capacity.


Typical Preparations

Holy Basil is traditionally taken as an herbal tea, dried powder, fresh leaf, or mixed with ghee.


Summary

Holy Basil, or Tulsi, is an important symbol in the Hindu religion and it is a significant herb in ayurvedic medicine.


Precautions

Not recommended for use if pregnant, nursing, or are considering becoming pregnant (may have an anti-fertility effect). Do not administer to infants or toddlers. May lower blood sugar, consult a doctor if hypoglycemic (in separate studies, it has also been shown to be beneficial for those with hypoglycemia). Holy Basil has mild blood thinning properties.

 

[Scrappy4]

Horsetail Grass

Where i live we call that joint grass or snake grass. It looks like miniature bamboo. I use it to make FPE's. i just cover about a 1/3 of a bucket full with water and let it rot. It's one of the most strongest smelling FPE's that i have used and that should not be taken lightly, it really stinks, lol. But I think it has made a positive impact on my garden.

How do you use horsetail, OO? ....scrappy

 

[OrganicOzarks]

I have been experimenting with it in tea's, and also mixing it in my soil.

 

[ICMaggotMe]

From a French Gardening Site:

The basic method of fermentation is simple enough, which is not to say anything goes. First you need a container made of a nonreactive material. A 50-gallon plastic garbage can works fine. You need to cover your container during fermentation, but not tightly, or it might explode! Either punch some holes in your garbage can lid or cover the can with a piece of burlap or other cloth. While you can use smaller containers, 50 gallons is an optimal homeowner-scale size that is big enough to help moderate temperature extremes during fermentation.An unheated garage or outbuilding is a good place to conduct the fermentation, the speed of which is temperature dependent. The higher the temperature--up to a point--the faster the fermentation.

The water you use is very important. The ideal source of water is rain, being free of calcareous minerals or additives such as chlorine which can retard or stop fermentation. If you must use hard well water, add a bit of vinegar to it to lower the pH. City water should be allowed to stand several days to allow the chlorine to evaporate before you use it for your extracts.

The duration of fermentation can range from a few days to a couple of weeks. When the mixture stops bubbling when you stir or otherwise move the contents, fermentation is complete. Check your brew daily.

It is imperative that you filter your extract. Doing so stops the fermentation from going too far, and also prevents globs of stuff from plugging up your sprayer or watering can when you apply the brew. Use a very fine strainer lined with cheesecloth, an old clean teeshirt, anything short of a coffee filter or other filter paper, which filters out too much.

Store your extract in stainless steel or plastic containers in a cool place, around 40-50 degrees F being ideal. French folks like to use 5-gallon plastic wine containers, appropriately enough. While a wine cellar is also an excellent place to store your extracts, make sure to label carefully!

Once you have your made your extract or infusion, you of course need to apply it. Most often, you spray it on, just as you would a conventional pesticide or foliar fertilizer, taking care to cover the undersides of leaves. But some remedies are applied as a soil drench. This is best accomplished with a good old-fashioned watering can.

Okay, now that you know the basics, here is the roster of beneficial plants and how to use them.



Wormwood (Artemisia absinthium) Perennial plant with silvery, aromatic foliage.
Action. Repellent, especially against cabbage butterflies and codling moth on apples during period of egg-laying. Fungicidal against rust on currants.
Fermented extract (2 lbs. of fresh plant material to 2.5 gallons water) Undiluted for rust on currants. Undiluted sprayed on soil to repel slugs. Diluted to 10% against codling moth and cabbage worm. Note: Do not throw detritus of fermentation on compost, as it will slow its breakdown.

Fernleaf yarrow (Achillea millefolium)
Perennial plant with ferny, silvery, aromatic foliage and white flowers.
Active ingredients: pro-azulene, a volatile oil; isovalerianic and salicylic acids (salicylic acid is aspirin, which is why a tea of this plant reduces pain and fever in humans.)
Action. Promotes compost breakdown; potentiates fungicides.
Cold maceration. 1 oz. of dried flowers in 1 quart of water; macerate 24 hours. Add to fungicide treatment, such as horsetail or tansy.

Garlic (Allium sativum)
Needs no explanation, except to say that garlic is perennial if left in place.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Insecticide and fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction: chop 4 oz. peeled cloves and add to 1 quart water. Bring to boil, cover and remove from heat, infuse for one hour. Strain and use without diluting. Used as a soil drench, excellent to prevent damping off of seedlings. In oil maceration: Place 4 oz. of peeled cloves and 2 T. linseed oil in a mixer or blender and pulverize. Filter, washing the filtrate (and mixing in) 1 qt. rainwater. Store one week before using. Adding a bit of soap as a surfactant before spraying is useful. Effective against aphids and mites.
Note: This is a great use for spare garlic at the end of the winter storage season, which is beginning to sprout and taste unpalatable.

Cocklebur (Arctium lappa). Infamous biennial weed.
Active ingredients. Tanins, mucilage, resins, sulfate and potassium phosphate, calcium, and magnesium.
Action. Fungicide effective against mildew on potatoes.
Preparation. Use the whole plant before flowering. The root has the most active ingredients. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Attention: strong odor! Filter and dilute to 5% before spraying on potato foliage. Also, just pick the leaves and use them as a mulch on your potatoes.

Nasturtium (Trapaeolum majus). Flowering annual.
Active ingredients. Sulfur-containing compounds.
Action. Fungicidal against canker on tree fruits. Insectifuge against white fly (repellent).
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 quarts of water. Boil water, add leaves, infuse like tea one hour. Use undiluted on fruit trees. Dilute to 30% to spray tomatoes against mildew.

Comfreys (Symphytum officinalis, S. x uplandicum). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Allantoin, which stimulates cell multiplication. This is why allantoin is such an excellent ingredient for skin creams, especially for chapped skin.
Action.Comfrey is a powerful stimulator of all cell multiplication, e.g. growth. It stimulates microbial growth in the soil, and in compost, thus acting as an 'activator'. Comfrey stimulates seedling development as well as foliar growth.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. of fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. As a soil drench, dilute to 20%; as a foliar fertilizer and seedling fertilizer, dilute to 5%.

Spurge (Euphorbia lathyris). Hardy perennial.
Active ingredient. Euphorbone.
Action. Repels moles and voles, but must be prepared and sprayed to be effective. Having the plant on your property does not suffice.
Preparation. In fermented extract, harvest the stems and leaves; the terminals have the most active ingredient, from April to October. Caution! The milky sap of this plant causes skin irritations! Wear long-cuffed gloves to protect your hands and arms. Use 2 lbs. fresh plant material per 2.5 gals. of water. Spray around cultivated areas.

Bracken fern and male fern. (Pteridium aquilinum, Dryopteris felix-mas). Perennial plant.
Action. Insecticide and insectifuge.
Active ingredients. Gallic and acetic acids; tannin; cyanogenic heterosides; potassium; aldehydes transformed to methaldehydes after fermentation.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs of fresh leaves to 2.5 gal. of water. May be fermented simultaneously with nettle or horsetail. Dilute to 10% before spraying. Effective against some pests of potato and grape, very effective against wooly aphid. Note: bracken fern is indigenous in many areas, especially in well-drained acid soils, and is often considered invasive, as it is rhizomatous.

Lavender (Lavandula angustifolia). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Over 250 different compounds!
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material per 2.5 gal. of water, dilute to 10% before using. For dried material, use 7 oz.
In simple infusion, use 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. of water, or 2/3 oz. of dried plant material per quart.
Note: If you live in a cool climate, your lavender will be less potent than that grown in a hot climate. Double the quantities or use dried plant material from a southern source.


English Ivy (Hedera helix). Perennial vine.
Active ingredient. Heteroside which is liberated during fermentation.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against white fly, spider mites, and aphids.
Preparation. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. chopped leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. In observing fermentation, don't confuse the foam caused by the saponins in the leaves with the gas bubbles of fermentation. Dilute to 5% before spraying. Beekeepers in the 18th century rubbed their hands with ivy to protect themselves from bee stings. Caution! The extract is toxic and must be kept out of the reach of children. Also, many people are allergic to the sap of ivy and/or to the fine hairs on the reverse of the leaves. Wear gloves to protect yourself.

Lemon balm. (Melissa officinalis). Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredient. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, mosquitos, white fly, and ants.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray without diluting. Note: Do not use on seedling beds as it can prevent germination of seedlings.

Peppermint. (Mentha piperita) Perennial aromatic culinary and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Many aromatic compounds.
Action. Insectifuge and insecticide against aphids and spider mites.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. of fresh plant in 1 qt. of water. Allow to cool, filter, and spray undiluted.
In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant to 2.5 gal. of water. Ferments extremely fast. Dilute to 10% before using. Note: Impedes germination so don't use on seedling beds.

Stinging Nettle (Urtica dioica). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. A cocktail of ingredients still poorly analyzed but including formic acid, as well as iron, nitrogen, and many trace minerals. Acts as an immunostimulant for plants.
Action. Strongly stimulant to both microbial and plant growth, thus a compost activator as well as fertiliser. Insectifuge and sometimes insecticide against aphids, mites, and other pests.
Preparation. Use of the whole plant before flowering. Studies have shown that including the roots adds a fungicidal action to the extract. In fermented extract (the famous purin d'ortie), 2 lbs. of fresh plant in 2.5 gal. of water, fermented for a few days only. Dilute to 20% before using as soil drench or foliar feed. Use full strength as a natural herbicide (it kills with 'fertilizer burn' because it is so rich). Soak bareroot plants for 30 minutes in the pure extract or for 12 hours in a 20% dilution before planting to stimulate rapid establishment and vigor.

The nettle reigns supreme among plants for fermentation in France. The fermented extract is sold commercially in garden centers, and clubs and associations of nettle fanatics exist throughout France. Needless to say perhaps, but wear gloves when handling nettles. It's not for nothing they're called 'stinging.'

Horsetail. (Equisetum arvense). Perennial plant and medicinal herb.
Active ingredients. Diverse alkaloids, nicotinic acid, silica.
Action. Insectifuge, preventive fungicide, plant tonic and growth stimulant.
Preparation. In decoction, boil 1 lb. of fresh plant with 5 qts. of water for 1 hour, allow to infuse 12 hours, filter and dilute to 20%.
In fermented extract, 1/2 lb. of dried plant in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 5% before using.
Horsetail, along with nettle and fern, form the Big Three among medicinal plants for plants, according to the French. I remember my Swiss grandmother gathering horsetail and drying it in pillowcases for use in astringent poultices.

Pyrethrum (Tanacetum cinerariifolium). Perennial.
Active ingredient. Pyrethrins.
Action. Insecticide against aphids, cabbage fly, whitefly, carrot fly, and others. Does not hurt bees.
Preparation. Harvest the flowers when open, and dry them. In infusion, use 1 oz. in 2 qts. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, use 3 oz. in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 20%. Spray after sundown or in very early morning.

Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
Perennial culinary herb.
Active ingredients. Sulfuric heteroside, glucosinolate.
Action. Fungicide against blackspot on cherries.
Preparation. In infusion, 12 oz. of fresh plant material (leaves and roots chopped) in 2 1/2 gal. of water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 4 oz. of chopped root in 2.5 gal. of water. Use full strength on seedlings for damping off.

Rhubarb (Rheum rhaponticum).
Perennial potager plant.
Active ingredients. Oxalic acid as salt of calcium.
Action. Insectifuge against aphids, caterpillars, and other larvae. Repulsive to herbivores.
Preparation. In cold maceration, use 1 lb. of chopped leaves in 3 quarts of water; allow to soak 24 hours before filtering. Use full strength. This is a great way to use rhubarb leaves as you eat the stalks.

Rue (Ruta graveolens). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Tannins, heterosides, malic acid, glucosides, and others.
Action. Insecticide and repulsive.
Preparation. Harvest fresh leaves and stems before flowering. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water fermented for 10 days. Dilute to 20%. Repels mice, chipmunks, and other chewers. Spray against aphids.

Dockweed (Rumex obtusifolius). Perennial weed.
Active ingredients. Have not been studied.
Action. Fungicide against canker on apples and pears.
Preparation. In infusion, 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 5 qts. boiling water. Filter when cool, spray full strength on cankers. Treat young trees preventatively. Spring is best time.

Soapwort (Saponaria officinalis). Flowering perennial.
Active ingredients. Saponins.
Action. Insecticide, insectifuge.
Preparation. In infusion, 4 oz. fresh material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Dilute to 10% before using.


Sage. (Salvia officinalis). Perennial herb.
Active ingredients. Monoterpenones, including thujone, camphor, and others, aldehydes, coumarin.
Action. Insectifuge, fungicide.
Preparation. In infusion for insectifuge, 4 oz. of fresh plant material in 1 qt. boiling water. Filter when cool and use full strength. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh leaves and terminals in 2.5 gal. of water, diluted to 10%, against mildew on potatoes.

Common Elderberry (Sambucus nigra). Large shrub to small tree.
Active ingredients. Sambucine.Action. Powerful repellant; fungicide.
Preparation. In decoction, 2 lbs. of leaves soaked for 24 hours in 2.5 gal. of water, then boiled for 30 minutes. Spray undiluted against aphids, beetles, caterpillars. In fermented extract, use 2 lbs. fresh leaves in 2.5 gal. of water. Use undiluted against shelf fungus infections on trees.

Tansy (Tanacetum vulgare). Perennial plant (invasive in sandy soils).
Active ingredients. Not studied.
Action. Insectifuge, insecticide, fungicide against rust and mildew.
Preparation. In fermented extract, 2 lbs. of fresh plant material in 2.5 gal. of water. Use nondiluted against cabbage fly. In infusion, 1 oz. of flowers in 1 qt. of boiling water. Filter when cool and spray undiluted against aphids, mildew, and rust. Caution: don't throw residues on compost as tansy inhibits its breakdown.

This season, why not experiment with this new (old) dimension of organic treatments? It's not only we humans who stand to benefit from medicinal herbs. The power of plants can come to the rescue of fellow plants as well!

 

[Seandawg]

Can't we just copy all the crap from the last one? Lol

 

[Scrappy4]

Can't we just copy all the crap from the last one? Lol

Glad your here pineapple breath Maybe you could post about harvesting local island seaweeds? Scrappy

 

[Seandawg]

Glad your here pineapple breath Maybe you could post about harvesting local island seaweeds? Scrappy

Sure! I'd love to share about my own personal seaweed harvest!

Every one already knows that Kelp meal (ascophyllum nodosum) is the #1 seaweed source to use. I'm not going to argue with that. But when comparing it by cost and efficiency I'm actually going to stick with my native brown seaweeds.

There are a few different types but the one that I primaryily target is a brown algae (Phaeophyta) called Limu Kala (Sargassum echinocarpum)

Most times I use it raw and fresh, either added to my compost, as a botanical tea, fermented, added to my worm bin, even directly into my recycled soil. The reasoning for drying and grinding is mainly as a means to preserve it for use for teas. Im going to say that a tablespoon rehydrated will increase its size by 4x or so? That is a very general estimate btw. To give a good perspective, I typically harvest a five gallon bucket full of seaweed. After its dried and ground, it fills about a half of a gallon zip loc bag.

https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=5451255&postcount=4164

 

[chef]

I didn't chop my Nettles this last year & let them go to seed.
Should have enough for some tea this year.

Going to grab some bullwhip kelp next trip to the coast too

 

[Seandawg]

In addition to native seaweeds I also like using anything in my area thats free and beneficial.

Koa haole: nitrogen fixing legume (also used as fodder btw)

Moringa: another nitrogen fixing legume

Mamaki: A native hawaiian nettle that lost its sting as and adaptive mutation from so many years without predators

Mangos: specifically the seed great source of naturally occurring silicon

Here's a new one! (even for me)
Strawberry guava shoots! Everything you love about auxins from willow tips same here!

Oh and dont forget to ferment the fruit (the ones that you don't eat lol) great source of phosphorus.

 

[chef]

Nice.
I got 5-6 lbs of red & white clover seed for ground cover this year.
Hopefully keep down grass/weeds some & fix a bit of N.

 

[koolkush]

Seandawg your lucky dude

 

[Seandawg]

Seandawg your lucky dude

There's great stuff all over the place man! I use stuff like that because comfrey doesn't grow around here.
I don't have stinging nettles, and I've never even seen a horsetail fern.

There's magic all around you my friend! Don't be afraid to use it!
Good luck!

 

[koolkush]

Thanks. Hey I accidentally pressed no on the post rating . I meant to click yes but I'm on a phone and it messed up.tried to change it but couldn't figure it out.

 

[schwagg]

From a French Gardening Site:

nice to see ya bro!!!

 

[RanchoDeluxe]

I've been using a Burdock FPE. Honestly I'm not exactly sure how much it helps. Doesn't seem to hurt anything though.

I used Tansy last year to kill some ants around a tree in my backyard. I also used it on a zucchini plant that had gotten powdery mildew. Completely forgot about it until I saw this thread. Wish I had some around I would surely be trying it for PM if I still had some around. Next year.

 

[BlueJayWay]

Ah botanicals! I love growing plants with plants! Besides working the soil, botanical teas (and sprouted teas!) is pretty much what I do.

I do use a lot of the usual suspects, and almost never go without kelp in a tea. And every watering or foliar contains aloe - pretty much.

Alfalfa/kelp of course, I actually don't really see a need to veer away from that combo much, if at all, but I get bored without diversity and like to think the plants and soil benefit in the long run from different inputs - especially with 80% of the garden being No-till.

So that introduces yarrow/kelp, nettle/kelp, comfrey/kelp - often some neem seed meal added in small amounts to any tea for its nutritional and insecticidal benefits or a straight neem/kelp combo.

Biweekly I make a tea with cilantro - one bunch of cilantro soaked in a gallon of water for 24 to 48 hrs and this is added at a rate of 1 cup per gallon of water/tea, whatever is on tap at the time! Great insecticidal benefits from cilantro, and makes a great foliar to add to spider mite prevention and maintenance program. Thanks to CC specifically on this one.

Aside from teas I mulch heavily with botanicals ( does mulch count for this thread ), usually what I have available - nettle, nasturtiums, dandelions, cannabis leaves/stems of course and misc others.

Botanicals Kick-Ass! Great thread to start Scrappy!

 

[ICMaggotMe]

nice to see ya bro!!!

Thanks bro, been a while for sure.