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Blumat auto watering

Herbophile

Member
At a quick glance it looks good to me.

I don't use end pieces as I run a loop using two hull fittings on each reservoir and then towards the back of the loop I add in a drain valve.

You shouldn't need a pressure reducer as those are typically for water from the faucet that is under pressure. I've never used as big of a reservoir but I doubt that even that much water will create that much pressure. My res is 30 gallons raised up about 6 feet. I'm sure there is a formula floating around somewhere to figure out the pressure created though.
 

rives

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Water pressure is generated by the amount of "head", which is the elevation of the source level above the discharge point. You get .43psi per foot of head, so if you are planning on using the entire contents of a 55 gallon drum, the blumats are going to see a pressure swing of about 1.5 psi. That is more than I would be comfortable with - my self-replenishing reservoir only sees a swing of about 4".

You might want to consider one of the designs used in here with a constant-level feed reservoir that is supplied by the 55 gallon drum.
 

Herbophile

Member
Good point. I didn't think to mention that. I run mine with an overflow from a lower reservoir with a continuous run pump and then just top off the lower reservoir every few days or so. I ended up going this route because of the blumats acting up when the reservoir got low.
 

PeopleWish

Active member
Rives,

Not quite sure how to keep a constant level, if you could do you mind posting a link to the design I have read most all of this thread must have skimmed over that, or didn't take the time to fully grasp the concept.

Props
 

heady blunts

prescription blunts
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picture.php

:tiphat:
 

Herbophile

Member
That's the one. :)

One of these days I really need to swap my reservoirs around. I currently have a 10 on the floor and a 30 up top because the 30 was what I initially set up but then I started to have issues with the blumats acting up when the res got low. So I just added the small one on the floor to make sure everything worked right. Being the lazy stoner that I am it's been like that for about a year now. :D
 
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Deano69

Amazing thread, just bought two of these beauties to try out on some bonsai mothers. Bought the pressure reducer also but I have worries about connecting it to the main water supply, had an idea though! How about using a maxijet water pump, rated at 750ltr/hr to replicate the mains water pressure, and hooking that up to the pressure reducer, then to your blumats. Would this allow the use of small storage res' without the worry of an air bubble or would the pump burn out when the pinch valve is closed?....Peace!
 

gurnt

Member
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rives

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Rives,

Not quite sure how to keep a constant level, if you could do you mind posting a link to the design I have read most all of this thread must have skimmed over that, or didn't take the time to fully grasp the concept.

Props

Heady's post above is one good method for doing this. You could also run the pump sporadically to avoid heating the water - say for 10 minutes every 2 hours, or whatever your observations tell you will work. I am currently changing my system around to where my float switch will kick on a submersible pump rather than the water solenoid that it currently controls. I have been using plain water in the past, and want to try a nutrient mix, so I am going to use a larger reservoir feeding a small, level-controlled reservoir system.
 

rives

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Bought the pressure reducer also but I have worries about connecting it to the main water supply, had an idea though! How about using a maxijet water pump, rated at 750ltr/hr to replicate the mains water pressure, and hooking that up to the pressure reducer, then to your blumats. Would this allow the use of small storage res' without the worry of an air bubble or would the pump burn out when the pinch valve is closed?....Peace!

I would be concerned with this arrangement about dead-heading the pump. These pumps aren't really designed for this, and will cavitate when the flow is shut off, generating air bubbles. Cavitation is also destructive to pumps. Additionally, I don't think that these pumps are really "pressure" pumps, and it would be questionable if the pump could generate enough pressure to make the pressure-reducer work properly. If you try it, please post back and let us know what your results were.
 
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Deano69

I would be concerned with this arrangement about dead-heading the pump. These pumps aren't really designed for this, and will cavitate when the flow is shut off, generating air bubbles. Cavitation is also destructive to pumps. Additionally, I don't think that these pumps are really "pressure" pumps, and it would be questionable if the pump could generate enough pressure to make the pressure-reducer work properly. If you try it, please post back and let us know what your results were.

Yeah I'm gonna try it because this could be a great to solution my situation and hopefully could help out others. I'll let you all know how I get on. Peace ya'll!
 

PeopleWish

Active member
That diagrams is very useful heady, thank you for taking the time to post it.

I understand you drawing and it makes great sense, however, I am not quite sure as to how to keep the pump from over flowing the top res?

What size pump would you recommend for this task? Would I use a simple float valve in conjunction with the pump?

Or just drill a whole at the top of the top Rez and run a passive run off line down to the bottom res?

Sorry if that was extremely confusing I am really high off this chemdog ibl ....
 
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greenmatter

That diagrams is very useful heady, thank you for taking the time to post it.

I understand you drawing and it makes great sense, however, I am not quite sure as to how to keep the pump from over flowing the top res?

What size pump would you recommend for this task? Would I use a simple float valve in conjunction with the pump?

Or just drill a whole at the top of the top Rez and run a passive run off line down to the bottom res?

Sorry if that was extremely confusing I am really high off this chemdog ibl ....

the stand pipe determines the water level in heady's res system. the water gets to the top of it and runs back into the main rez (picking up a bunch of D.O. in the process). it's the same principal as the overflow for an ebb and flow table
 

PeopleWish

Active member
Thanks for the input green matter,

I have relatively 0 knowledge about ebb and flow systems, in regard to building them, I do understand the concept however.

What size pump would you recommend for pushing the h20 up to the to? Should this pump be left on 24hrs, or on a timer for say 1 hr intervals?

As for the standpipe, could you explain your method for making this, or is it as simple as drilling a 1" hole and running a 1" tube back to the bottom Rez?


Thanks for all the input, cannot wait toget these blumats flowing, I want my life back. ;)
 

rives

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Any type of a return line that is large enough to outflow the pump by a good margin can be used - you don't want the water backing up and overflowing because it can't return fast enough. Some people are running the pump continuously, and some are just running it enough to keep the water level from changing too much - it will change based on the pump size, number of plants, water demand, etc. Be careful when selecting the pump to buy one that is rated for the head height (elevation difference between where the pump sits and the top of it's discharge plumbing) that you have and look at the pump curve to see how much it pumps at that head.

For instance, if you look at the following chart, the 350gph (Mag Drive #3) pump is only rated at 350gph at 1' of head (pumping height). At 10', it drops to only 10gph, at 8' it is 75gph, etc.


pump curve chart
 

PeopleWish

Active member
Excellent post rives! Props!

The 55g res will be on the floor, I will then build a shelf ~5' from the floor and place the 18g res there.

With the configuration that I described, would the 350gph be suitable, or would you recommend something different?
 

rives

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Depending on where you bring the feed line into your upper reservoir, you will probably have a maximum head height of around 7'. That pump will then be capable of @ 2 gallons per minute, which should be more than adequate for your needs. That arrangement is almost identical to what I am changing my system to.
 

PeopleWish

Active member
Awesome great news!

How do you feel about drilling a 1" hole for the overflow line? Would that beable to keep up with the 2g per minute?

You answers are very informative, I am very appreciative!
 

rives

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I haven't gotten far enough with my installation to tell you definitively, but I would use 1-1/4". The difference in the cost of the components is negligible, while the area and flow capacity of the pipe jumps substantially. Assuming the same volume of water, the flow velocity of the water is only 56% for the 1-1/4" pipe vs 1".
 
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