Blumat auto watering

[Bwanabud]

Bwanabud, are you running straight water or nute solution? How often do you see a runaway? Also, are you doing coco?

I'm running nutes clean thru veg & bud, I run 1/4 nute strength solution in final week...I use 100% Canna Pro coco in 1 & 2 gallon pots...all scrog plants. I only get 1 or 2 runaways (out of 50-70 plants) when I switch from the veg system to the bud system(transition), because there's a 2# difference on operating pressure...happens the 1st or second day of transfer. But I do have to massage the 3mm tubing, and slide thru the carrot knob occasionally (one every week or 2) to keep lines clear and consistent.

If I bought a few more Blumat pressure reducers, and checked them for exact poundage at outlet, I could match systems (veg/bud) to eliminate to runaways for good.

 

[Guest]

I cant find a solid answer for my questions.

I am running organic soil in square 7 gallon plastic pots. I top dressed with Pine bark mulch in a nice layer.

I am using the moisture sensor only and hand watering at the moment. I calibrated the sensor per instructions and installed it halfway between a corner and the plant which is in week 8 of flower. A half hour after a good water to see some slight water in the tray it reads in the 30's more or less. Few days later the reading is not even 100 and the soil is bone dry finger depth. I only have a week or two left so at this point to finish and will go by the reading and finger to finish this grow.

My question is for organic soil like this with pearlite is there a different level of moisture or is the 120-130 range what I really need to go by?

And I will be using 7 gallon grow bags next time and do THEY affect the reading I should go by? I am not sure yet if Im going to use the carrots next grow or continue to just hand water but I want to nail down the readings I need to be staying between.

 

[blumat_pawley]

I cant find a solid answer for my questions.

I am running organic soil in square 7 gallon plastic pots. I top dressed with Pine bark mulch in a nice layer.

I am using the moisture sensor only and hand watering at the moment. I calibrated the sensor per instructions and installed it halfway between a corner and the plant which is in week 8 of flower. A half hour after a good water to see some slight water in the tray it reads in the 30's more or less. Few days later the reading is not even 100 and the soil is bone dry finger depth. I only have a week or two left so at this point to finish and will go by the reading and finger to finish this grow.

My question is for organic soil like this with pearlite is there a different level of moisture or is the 120-130 range what I really need to go by?

And I will be using 7 gallon grow bags next time and do THEY affect the reading I should go by? I am not sure yet if Im going to use the carrots next grow or continue to just hand water but I want to nail down the readings I need to be staying between.

If you're using soil with perlite in it, line the hole or area where you are placing your Blumat with peat moss or another fibrous medium. Perlite absorbs more water than the soil surrounding it and this sometimes causes Blumats to dry out and lose their function. Lining the hole with peat moss ensures even moisture distribution and proper function of of your Blumat sensors.

Does that help??

 

[Guest]

If you're using soil with perlite in it, line the hole or area where you are placing your Blumat with peat moss or another fibrous medium. Perlite absorbs more water than the soil surrounding it and this sometimes causes Blumats to dry out and lose their function. Lining the hole with peat moss ensures even moisture distribution and proper function of of your Blumat sensors.

Does that help??

Somewhat but in organic soil I suppose it's to late to disturb the roots this late in the grow for the peat moss. I will do it next grow when I transplant into the larger pot.

 

[overgrowit]

Thanks for the info guys.

I wanted to share what I am trying right now. I ordered a pressure regulator designed for hooking a RV to city water pressure. It has a gauge and a screw that allows you to adjust the pressure very easily so you can set it exactly where you want. So far it is working great hooked into my existing 3/4" and 1/2" irrigation lines, set around 10psi.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XTY1Q36/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The drip tape pressure regulator I was using before was not working at all and the 3mm lines were blowing off the fittings. I believe those kind of regulators are not intended for constant pressure, and only work if there is enough water flow through the line. So when the water stopped flowing the pressure would build up to the full pressure of the shurflo pump.

 

[blumat_pawley]

Hello everyone,

I'm wondering if anyone has had any remarkable success with a particular nutrient blend. Do you make your own? We're experimenting with hemp, fish, bokashi, and other random plant matter. Just want to get a discussion going on this.

 

[blumat_pawley]

We've found that fermented plant juice from hemp, various flowers, and some bokashi to be rather effective.

 

[Jhhnn]

If you're using soil with perlite in it, line the hole or area where you are placing your Blumat with peat moss or another fibrous medium. Perlite absorbs more water than the soil surrounding it and this sometimes causes Blumats to dry out and lose their function. Lining the hole with peat moss ensures even moisture distribution and proper function of of your Blumat sensors.

Does that help??

I can't see the logic in that. Perlite floats... because it's full of trapped air bubbles that are impervious to water.

If bedding blumats in peat helps them work better it's for some other reason.

 

[blumat_pawley]

I'm simply saying that the even distribution of water around your Blumat, when it's lined with peat moss, allows the sensors to work at their best. When perlite makes contact with the ceramic part of a Blumat, their function can be compromised.

 

[rives]

I'm not sure that I agree with your rationale that the perlite water content is what causes the problem, I've always thought that it was due to the chunks of perlite disrupting the "fit" between the media and the spike.

I use Botanicare ReadyGro Aeration Mix, but bed the spike in straight coco (no perlite) and it has been effective in reducing the number of runaways.

 

[Jhhnn]

I'm not sure that I agree with your rationale that the perlite water content is what causes the problem, I've always thought that it was due to the chunks of perlite disrupting the "fit" between the media and the spike.

I use Botanicare ReadyGro Aeration Mix, but bed the spike in straight coco (no perlite) and it has been effective in reducing the number of runaways.

That seems right. I may try it next time around. I had more trouble than usual getting them dialed in this time. Now that they are, I'm sure as Hell not fussing with it.

 

[rives]

That seems right. I may try it next time around. I had more trouble than usual getting them dialed in this time. Now that they are, I'm sure as Hell not fussing with it.

The easiest way that I've found to do it is to pull the spike out, tamp the hole full with the straight coco, reinsert the spike, repeat. After doing this several times the media gets pretty tightly compressed around the spike, which also seems to help.

 

[budelight]

Hey Rives

I was looking through your albums (totally not creepy) and was amazed at the duct work you built for the blumats.

Im considering dabbling with Blumats under a 315w cmh in a 3'x3' tent. Where did you find that drip tray for your tent? Any tips for a beginner setup so I can try some spikes with only small upfront cost?

Planning on building a shelf to hold a 5gal bucket.
Picking up a small or medium kit from sustainablevillage.

Growing in 1-2g poly bags of coco.
Feed with maxigrow in veg and V+B in flower.

EDITED TO ADD: This is Rives' photo, not mine

 

[Sforza]

The easiest way that I've found to do it is to pull the spike out, tamp the hole full with the straight coco, reinsert the spike, repeat. After doing this several times the media gets pretty tightly compressed around the spike, which also seems to help.

Having read your previous mention of this method, I tried it the last time I ran my Blamats and it worked well for me. I use quite a bit of perlite in my mix, so having the nice tight uniform coco coir contact with the spike seemed to work very well.

Thanks for the tip.

 

[rives]

Hey Rives

I was looking through your albums (totally not creepy) and was amazed at the duct work you built for the blumats.

Im considering dabbling with Blumats under a 315w cmh in a 3'x3' tent. Where did you find that drip tray for your tent? Any tips for a beginner setup so I can try some spikes with only small upfront cost?

Planning on building a shelf to hold a 5gal bucket.
Picking up a small or medium kit from sustainablevillage.

Growing in 1-2g poly bags of coco.
Feed with maxigrow in veg and V+B in flower.

EDITED TO ADD: This is Rives' photo, not mine
View Image

I'm glad you were checking out the albums - that's why I put them up!

The Blumats are fed with the regular 8mm line and attached to the PVC pipe with tyraps. The pipe is all graded so that it allows any entrained air to rise to the center of the back, where a solenoid is T'd in to purge the air when a timer activates. The purged flow is then dumped back to the lower reservoir. At the time I did all of that, I was running a self-topping, water only system and was having a hell of a time with air bubbles vapor-locking the Blumats. I doubt that it is necessary with the dual-reservoir system that I've been using since then, but it's all in place...

The drip tray is a washing machine drip tray from Home Depot. There is a drain hole in the center of it, and the tent sits on top of a piece of plywood covering a bathtub, so any runaways are drained off to the sewer system. I also have a 4x4 tent, and use a flood and drain pan in it.

This tent is a 30" x 30". I usually run 4 plants, so a minimum number of spikes are needed. The kits usually don't have enough fittings, I'd pick up an extra half-dozen of each, and enough 3mm line to give each spike about a 3' whip hose. With 5 liter air pots, Botanicare ReadyGro Aeration Mix, V+B all the way through, and a 315 CMH, I average a bit over a gram per watt. The system is set up for a minimum of work. I am frequently gone about 10 days at a time, and it just motors along...

 

[Jhhnn]

I'm glad you were checking out the albums - that's why I put them up!

The Blumats are fed with the regular 8mm line and attached to the PVC pipe with tyraps. The pipe is all graded so that it allows any entrained air to rise to the center of the back, where a solenoid is T'd in to purge the air when a timer activates. The purged flow is then dumped back to the lower reservoir. At the time I did all of that, I was running a self-topping, water only system and was having a hell of a time with air bubbles vapor-locking the Blumats. I doubt that it is necessary with the dual-reservoir system that I've been using since then, but it's all in place...

The drip tray is a washing machine drip tray from Home Depot. There is a drain hole in the center of it, and the tent sits on top of a piece of plywood covering a bathtub, so any runaways are drained off to the sewer system. I also have a 4x4 tent, and use a flood and drain pan in it.

This tent is a 30" x 30". I usually run 4 plants, so a minimum number of spikes are needed. The kits usually don't have enough fittings, I'd pick up an extra half-dozen of each, and enough 3mm line to give each spike about a 3' whip hose. With 5 liter air pots, Botanicare ReadyGro Aeration Mix, V+B all the way through, and a 315 CMH, I average a bit over a gram per watt. The system is set up for a minimum of work. I am frequently gone about 10 days at a time, and it just motors along...

I think You're onto something about entrained air, something I remember from Aquariums. Cold pressurized water has a lot more air in it than warm water at room temp, so when the pressure is relieved microbubbles form over time. It's not good for the fish.

https://www.spirotherm.com/sites/default/files/TechnicalData-AirElimination_3.pdf

The way aquarists deal with it is to let the water age for a day while using an airstone & a heater. It drives off excess gas molecules because of broken surface tension. I may try it in my plain water res, see if it helps. I wouldn't recommend it in hydro nutrient solutions because bacteria would go wild & gunk up the works.

You're also right about the kits being somewhat of a tease. The whole thing works better & is much easier to manage with fixed 8mm lines & longer 3mm whips. The 8mm line is also a lot easier to deal with after some time in an oven set to warm.

 

[rives]

I think You're onto something about entrained air, something I remember from Aquariums. Cold pressurized water has a lot more air in it than warm water at room temp, so when the pressure is relieved microbubbles form over time. It's not good for the fish.

https://www.spirotherm.com/sites/default/files/TechnicalData-AirElimination_3.pdf

The way aquarists deal with it is to let the water age for a day while using an airstone & a heater. It drives off excess gas molecules because of broken surface tension. I may try it in my plain water res, see if it helps. I wouldn't recommend it in hydro nutrient solutions because bacteria would go wild & gunk up the works.

You're also right about the kits being somewhat of a tease. The whole thing works better & is much easier to manage with fixed 8mm lines & longer 3mm whips. The 8mm line is also a lot easier to deal with after some time in an oven set to warm.

You've described our municipal water system to a "T". The water is glacial melt, drops from a much higher elevation over steep country causing turbulent flow and further aeration of the water, and it operates at pressures that are substantially above what would be considered normal. Once I moved to the current system, my problems with vapor lock ended. Luckily, V+B is very stable both from a pH standpoint and staying in solution, and since it is a chem nutrient, it has few issues with bacteria growth. I never change out the nutrient solution, simply adding to it as required.

 

[budelight]

Thanks for the advice rives & Jhhnn

Are you feeding the same strength v+b throughout growth?

A gram per watt would be wonderful, but are you using dialed in clones?

I just ordered a washing machine drop pan off Amazon because, believe it or not, it was cheaper than home Depot!

I won't need to worry about the solenoid it sounds, what do you recommend for an 8mm layout with long 3mm runners. Bleed valve? Sounds like the kit might not have the best set of pieces for work I want to accomplish...

 

[rives]

Thanks for the advice rives & Jhhnn

Are you feeding the same strength v+b throughout growth?

A gram per watt would be wonderful, but are you using dialed in clones?

I just ordered a washing machine drop pan off Amazon because, believe it or not, it was cheaper than home Depot!

I won't need to worry about the solenoid it sounds, what do you recommend for an 8mm layout with long 3mm runners. Bleed valve? Sounds like the kit might not have the best set of pieces for work I want to accomplish...

I use a lower strength during veg, kick it up a week or so into flowering, and cut it back 3 weeks or so before harvest. The last couple of weeks are at a very low strength for the flush.

Yes, I run clones and am pretty familiar with what makes them happy.

I have both single-ended systems and one that is fed from each end. You should be fine with a single-ended one making a loop around the perimeter of tent, with the T's on each side so they are accessible. A bleed valve on the end is handy for purging air, pulling samples, hand-watering, and flushing the system out.

You either need to have a drain or the ability to catch the volume of your reservoir - you WILL have runaways. A flood & drain pan has much higher walls than the washing machine drip pan and might be a better choice if there is one available that will fit in your tent.

 

[Jhhnn]

I use a lower strength during veg, kick it up a week or so into flowering, and cut it back 3 weeks or so before harvest. The last couple of weeks are at a very low strength for the flush.

Yes, I run clones and am pretty familiar with what makes them happy.

I have both single-ended systems and one that is fed from each end. You should be fine with a single-ended one making a loop around the perimeter of tent, with the T's on each side so they are accessible. A bleed valve on the end is handy for purging air, pulling samples, hand-watering, and flushing the system out.

You either need to have a drain or the ability to catch the volume of your reservoir - you WILL have runaways. A flood & drain pan has much higher walls than the washing machine drip pan and might be a better choice if there is one available that will fit in your tent.

You're right about runaways. It happens to me more often when I'm first dialing them in but it'll happen right out of the blue, as well. I think one of the advantages for hydro growers using blumats is that they can size a catchment basin to hold all the liquid in a worst case scenario. It can't be done with plain water systems like mine where mains water is constantly supplied. My grow is in the cellar where overflow of the catchment basin wouldn't destroy anything & the fact that I'm a homebody lets me catch problems early on. If I were away regularly, I'd figure out a way to use a water detector & a N.C. solenoid valve as an emergency safety.

As it is, I'll add purge valves on the ends of my two runs of 8mm & purge the whole thing really well before the next batch.