Blue Star OG pheno hunt, PPK style
- Thread starter Thread starter greyfader
- Start date Start date
today marks 72 days of flowering. at 9 weeks i took another set of test flowers, dried and smoked them with my wife. we decided that #6 is the winner. it has a nice citrus fuel taste up front with a floral perfume back. very pleasant and smooth taste and smoke.
but the real story of this one is the potency. #6 and #4 both have great potency with #6 being the most potent. all the other phenos had good potency. but these 2 are about as potent as it gets.
i use a pipe with a small bowl to test with. it is about the same size as a thimble. 2 small hits and i got an invigorating, stimulating, focused high that lasted for several hours. it has a great pain-relieving effect as well.
#6 also produces well-shaped, dense flowers and produced well.
i am going to do a run with it immediately as soon as i get these plants down and change the pool configuration to one plant each. i want to see how big they can get.
some are almost done and a few will be done by the end of the week. i'm seeing a lot of opaque trichs now.
please remember, when looking at these pics, that few of them are terminal flowers. because of medical issues i had to veg them longer than i wanted and had to trim the entire canopy back like a hedge to keep them out of the lights.
these plants went into the system on april 9 and today is july 30 so this is 15 weeks these plants have been in the system. during this period absolutely no solution was removed and no changeouts occurred. this growth was accomplished using solution input only.
this is a closed-loop, recirculating system.
also, this grow was done using an 8 hour flowering period with 16 hours of darkness.
i delivered an average of 1200 umols of light for 8 hours which produced an average daily light integral of about 35 moles per day.
just a few pics of flowers at random and then the winner, #6. i will start taking them down one at a time now.
but the real story of this one is the potency. #6 and #4 both have great potency with #6 being the most potent. all the other phenos had good potency. but these 2 are about as potent as it gets.
i use a pipe with a small bowl to test with. it is about the same size as a thimble. 2 small hits and i got an invigorating, stimulating, focused high that lasted for several hours. it has a great pain-relieving effect as well.
#6 also produces well-shaped, dense flowers and produced well.
i am going to do a run with it immediately as soon as i get these plants down and change the pool configuration to one plant each. i want to see how big they can get.
some are almost done and a few will be done by the end of the week. i'm seeing a lot of opaque trichs now.
please remember, when looking at these pics, that few of them are terminal flowers. because of medical issues i had to veg them longer than i wanted and had to trim the entire canopy back like a hedge to keep them out of the lights.
these plants went into the system on april 9 and today is july 30 so this is 15 weeks these plants have been in the system. during this period absolutely no solution was removed and no changeouts occurred. this growth was accomplished using solution input only.
this is a closed-loop, recirculating system.
also, this grow was done using an 8 hour flowering period with 16 hours of darkness.
i delivered an average of 1200 umols of light for 8 hours which produced an average daily light integral of about 35 moles per day.
just a few pics of flowers at random and then the winner, #6. i will start taking them down one at a time now.
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Very nice looking light, i especially like the possibility of just adding incandesant seamlessly. Its pretty much the only light tweak i havent tried yet.
As for tunable lights: there are a few out there but generally not so impressive. Ive done a couple DIY with led components; its a bit more efficient (the ac-dc converters in led lightbulbs are quite shitty for that), its dimmable and doesnt require changing any bulbs, you can set it up with switches or just change the way you feed the leds thru connectors/wagos. Also 100lums per watt for cold white led is very low, checking the spectrum you posted here or in the other thread it looks like they are 70cri: almost no red in their spectrum. If power consumption or cooling becomes an issue there are other ways (very easy building) to get similar or better performance with dedicated led components.
Bridgelux has a very nice strip with 2 separate channels: 5000k /2700k both in 90cri. The CRI in this case means that the spectrum has more red/far red in it (its actually about how the light renders colors but the end effect is more red). I built this little light out of these bridgelux vesta strips:
Its a bit hard to see but each line of light is actually 2 rows of leds, one cold white one warm white. The way i set it up was so that theres one circuit in the centre, one in the sides, so you can control the middle hotspot some what. Each of these circuits has its own dimable driver. Each circuit also have spectrum control, i diyed some switches that turn on cold white and warm white individually. So you can send down full power thru cold or warm white, or activate both at half power for a sorta full cycle/better efficiency mode. On the centre circuit i added some extra mono strips to add some deepreds. You could of course set it up so you could have individual drivers for each color but that means youd have to have much bigger drivers.
@greyfader
These are the blux Vestas i talked to you about over at the other thread
its really not hard once you got your head around the design. No soldering needed, just standard wire into a pushin connectorVeg/full cycle/flower spectrum, individually switchable both in the centre and the sides. And separate diming for centre and perifery so you can dial in perfectly even coverage.
About 250 euros at the time but pre inflation. Efficiency 2.4-2.6 ppf/w depending on if youre using one or both channels at the same time. 300w, 3x3 coverage. But youd have to beef it up a bit if you wanna get to 1200 ppfd...
This thread is absolutely Jam packed with gold!
I've recently made the switch to LEDs from HPS and CMH ( Ive chosen to run a CMH with my LEDs in winter)
After reading this I am going to experiment with the incandescent trick on my next run.
Although I believe I have built my lights from what I believe to be the very best manufacturer LED strips available ( Grow Light Australia)
If I could do it again I would follow your example of individual house hold bulbs .
What would be your recommendation for supplemental deep red/IR light per square foot?
Cheers
I've recently made the switch to LEDs from HPS and CMH ( Ive chosen to run a CMH with my LEDs in winter)
After reading this I am going to experiment with the incandescent trick on my next run.
Although I believe I have built my lights from what I believe to be the very best manufacturer LED strips available ( Grow Light Australia)
If I could do it again I would follow your example of individual house hold bulbs .
What would be your recommendation for supplemental deep red/IR light per square foot?
Cheers
Aristoned
Well-known member
@greyfader
Have you tried a wetting agent to break the surface tension of the water to eliminate the perched water table?
Have you tried a wetting agent to break the surface tension of the water to eliminate the perched water table?
howdy! here is a link to a grow i did with the bluestar og pheno hunt winner from this grow.
Blue Star OG pheno hunt winner in a PPK system
i recently conducted a pheno hunt of BlueStarSeedco's cross of Blue Star x Triangle Kush. This consisted of 50 seeds of which 48 popped within 2 days. 36 were selected and of these 12 were flowered. they all had good potency but this one has great potency and the strongest flavor profile...
www.icmag.com
i have no way of measuring actual delivery of photons outside of par range but i used 924 watts of 2700k and 150 watts of incandescent or a little over 16% incandescent.
Aristoned
Well-known member
I cannot thank you enough for the advice on the incandescent lamps, I’m using 150W currently and I have (x2) 100W bulbs and 150W bulbs coming.
Have you tried the 40W nano bulbs?
no, i have not. because i don't think it would work.
the perched water table occurs in every container. it's size is dependent on media particle size. the finer the medium, the greater the PWT.
it is held up against the force of gravity by cohesion (water's attraction to itself), and adhesion (water's attraction to other substances.)
the only way to eliminate the PWT in a conventional container is by transpiration through the plant or evaporation from the container.
the ppk device positively eliminates the PWT mechanically immediately after each watering event.
this allows you to water much more frequently on a timed schedule. the act of watering itself stimulates plant growth by exchanging gases, refreshing nutrients, and correcting ph on each pass.
Aristoned
Well-known member
I’m going to run an experiment to see if a wetting agent will have a positive effect.
What is your medium?
you are most welcome! i've only tried 25 watt appliance bulbs thus far. they are a15 envelope bulbs so much smaller than the typical a19 household bulbs. also, you can still find them whereas the a19's are getting scarce.
i like the idea of more low wattage bulbs functioning in the same working plane as the led bulbs rather than 1 or 2 bigger, higher wattage bulbs projecting significantly below the leds. i think this spreads the radiation out more evenly and reduces hot spots.
these are what i'm using.
25W, Clear, Incandescent A15 Bulb, Medium Base, 130V, Satco S3814 | 1000Bulbs.com
Shop for Satco S3814 25 watt A15 light bulb. Lasts 2,500 hours and produces 130 lumens at 130V. The best prices on 25 watt light bulbs at 1000bulbs.com!
www.1000bulbs.com
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i'm using #2 perlite amended with worm castings and diatomaceous earth. to the continuous liquid feed i add 1ml per gallon of mr fulvic and a heaping tsp of maxigro kelp powder. 85% phosphoric acid as ph down.
no solution was removed during the grow except at the end where i drained and refilled with ph corrected water. 12 weeks of input only.
Aristoned
Well-known member
you are most welcome! i've only tried 25 watt appliance bulbs thus far. they are a15 envelope bulbs so much smaller than the typical a19 household bulbs. also, you can still find them whereas the a19's are getting scarce.
i like the idea of more low wattage bulbs functioning in the same working plane as the led bulbs rather than 1 or 2 bigger, higher wattage bulbs projecting significantly below the leds. i think this spread the radiation out more evenly and reduces hot spots.
these are what i'm using.
25W, Clear, Incandescent A15 Bulb, Medium Base, 130V, Satco S3814 | 1000Bulbs.com
Shop for Satco S3814 25 watt A15 light bulb. Lasts 2,500 hours and produces 130 lumens at 130V. The best prices on 25 watt light bulbs at 1000bulbs.com!www.1000bulbs.com
The picture below is the 40W nano infrared bulbs I’m looking for. The 75W comes in the R40 shape, if I’m not mistaken, which makes it difficult to manage with strips. The COB’s have room all around so I have flexibility.
I’m imagining the 100W and the 150W to produce more visible light than the 75W, in an almost linear fashion, with the coating I should still get plenty more IR over the visible spectrum as compared to the “daylight” style.
If I were to use incandescent as a main source and not a supplemental source then I could see the A-series as an option. Do they still allow incandescent bulbs for use with lizards and snakes in Europe?
I would think the best way to stop the ban on incandescent is to promote the experiments that prove the IR light from incandescent lamps has a positive effect on our Health & Well-being while the LED is having an adverse effect.
Basically, what is good for the plants is good for us.
thank you! i didn't know those nano bulbs existed. is the second graph the spectral distribution of it or generic?
i don't know about availability in europe as i don't live there. but the bans on incandescent seem to be focused on a19 and a21 envelopes as they are the most common household types and would represent the greatest frequency of use.
the appliance bulbs i use will be around a long time as will heat bulbs for hatching bird eggs.
the appliance bulbs are rated for extremes of heat and cold and are vibration-resistant.
Aristoned
Well-known member
When I saw the 2.5” bulbs I lost it!
I can spread 200W of IR across the top of the canopy without even trying.
It was my assumption you lived in Europe, I can find incandescent bulbs everywhere they just don’t have as many as the LED replacements. I would also assume that horticulture and agriculture would maintain the incandescent and halogen lamps as there is no replacement for them. Another assumption is that the bulbs used for live-stock and agriculture are going to have higher quality and better spectrum accuracy.
The second graph is a generic graph for incandescent bulbs, halogen has slightly more visible light than incandescent and is more powerful. I prefer incandescent for my use-case.
yeah, i really don't see the point of using halogen as the incandescent covers all nm in a kinder, gentler fashion.
some reptile enthusiasts say that halogen can cause "dessication", which i interpret as drying.
Aristoned
Well-known member
Desiccation is drying for sure, the 250W halogen would have covered two plants with ease, but like you, I prefer to soften the IR and spread it more.
Too many ideas right now, I need to build something!
