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Blue Spectrum In Flower Makes More Resin?

one can see the spectrum of any bulb by using google images....makes it nice for side by side comparison.

Anyone have an opinion on digilux? I've been using my cheapo bulbs for a year now so its time for an upgrade. I have a couple sativa strains that stretch like crazy so i would like to keep that under control.

I would love to run MH for the first 3 weeks but I have a perpetual grow will plants of different ages and strains in the same room. I'm considering sticking a 400 MH in between my two 600 hps.

thanks for any input.
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
Hey Strap. The spectrums are available, but question is specifically if blue helps in some manner other than reducing internode distance during flower.
 
Yeah i realize that... think someone was trying to find em...

anyway... dont have experience outside of my cheapo bulbs so im all ears!
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
So far, I'm not finding a compelling reason to buy anything except cheapos, though all bulbs are not equal, either obviously.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Some don't feel there's a need for MH at all. Some prefer straight HPS the whole grow. I'm not in that camp yet, but getting there. The internode compression is a good thing, especially in my micro grow scrog, so per my original post, I'm looking at veg with MH, then to HPS for flower. Textbook. I'm now just not seeing the need for the Blue Hort specialty ($$$) bulbs.
Psst... rrog, look into actinic lighting. Extremely restricted wavelength, 420nm-430nm.

UV-b is proven (by a friend who will not share the data as the bulbs are too dangerous) to increase resin production.

I won't spend a bunch of money on bulbs, especially when my most reliable bulb is a Plant Max. I might spend the money on Ushio, but I would have to have an SPS reef tank, with anemones, to be willing to do that and even then I was pretty damned cheap and used banks of (mixed spectrum) shop lights for my own tanks. Grew mad clams an' ever'thang.

You can get a warm temp MH to use as well, and that will provide more blue and UV than any HPS.
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
The maiden of the sea. Thanks for stopping by!

I'm headed down the path of a good quality bulb, but not blue boutique. My current grow is blue hort HPS, but I'm getting that 1000w rig that I've been blabbering about all week. May or may not go MH. Probably will. The HPS bulb will be something plain, no blue




I'm looking for 280-315nm wavelength. I get it from my super-groovy reptile light. Too bad your friend won't share data. A lot of people could benefit. There are opinions galore, some reasonable anecdotal evidence, but a dearth of hard data.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Blue suggests something different than UV in my (water) world...

Blue suggests something different than UV in my (water) world...

A lot of people would more likely hurt themselves than anything else. These other UV radiation bands/wavelengths are not to be trifled with and the general tendency of growers is towards extreme casualness in attitude and action. I thought since you said you're looking for blue light that you might be interested to know that there are those blue wavelength bulbs out there, what they're called, etcetera.
 

prune

Active member
Veteran
Hey Strap. The spectrums are available, but question is specifically if blue helps in some manner other than reducing internode distance during flower.

did extensive comparisons in the ninety's, and other than the obvious traits as mentioned by supermanlives, the only noticeable difference was a slightly enhanced terpenoid profile with MH. Blues seem to bring out the "sativa" in any plant, but you need to be especially perceptive to be able to discern the difference.
in the end i went with the bulbs that last twice as long...

(but cost twice as much lol)
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
Thanks. While there are obviously opinions all over the board, it seems that most people, especially experienced people, don't bother with the blue. And neither will I.
 

nukklehead

Active member
:tiphat: Hi All !! Nice Info from all ....Experience is the key, and lots of years of trial and error, also, people tell you what they like/dislike, then you dial in various qualities of certain strains, looks like Haze crosses and making a comeback, anyway the topic of LIGHTS

In the 80's we had MH lighting the bulbs had 5500 Kelvin color temp
people loved all that was grown under these lights,lots of RESIN
The idea of growing indoors, was to simulate outdoors inside......
So, during bloom 12 hr period turn on your HPS the 1st 3 hrs only, then
the next 6 hrs MH only, no HPS, then the last 3 hrs HPS only.....
this as you can see, simulate outdoor light in the fall
Early in the morning outdoors, it's orange glowy light is Awsome for photography, and all plants love it, and this happens again in the early evening, but mid day is more white light, so MH light,,,your budz will be of a Better balanced quality Try this lighting setup, you will be Happy!:wave::jump:
Also, here on this planet, is there a place that has orange light only all day long, yeah, maybe on MARS !!! LOL!~


Thanks for the info... so lets just say I run conv. bulbs with switchable ballast (1K) and have run MH for first 2 weeks then HPS throughout (flowering). now thats not the issue but lets just say I have a little 250 MH setup that I can throw on to those babes if I wanted to. Thought about running the 250 latter in the day say hour 8-12.. mainly for heat dissipation purposes... I am intrigued by your post simulating the natural cycle of light... Maybe I should run 2-3 hours in the AM shut off, then 2-3 hours in the P.M before lights out ??? Interested in all opinions..... Now this is just an experiment with a negative bias lol... ( Im from MO ... show me>>>>:) Because for the most part in this small a grow.. do you think it would make difference in quality/yield??????? See other posts
 

nukklehead

Active member
did extensive comparisons in the ninety's, and other than the obvious traits as mentioned by supermanlives, the only noticeable difference was a slightly enhanced terpenoid profile with MH. Blues seem to bring out the "sativa" in any plant, but you need to be especially perceptive to be able to discern the difference.
in the end i went with the bulbs that last twice as long...

(but cost twice as much lol)

See above... this is the school of thought I adhere to now..... Not to start a match with anyone.. just trying to learn ....:thank you:
 

Anti

Sorcerer's Apprentice
Veteran
3 pages into a 'more blue in flowering' discussion without a mention of CMH? Weird.

I bought CMH in an attempt to get a balanced spectrum. At ~$50 a bulb for 400w they're a bit more than el cheapo HPS would be but then their rated life expectancy and lumen maintenance are better. I'm on my first run so I can't speak to it, but the CMH bulbs run on HPS ballasts, so I can always do future runs with a mix of both or all HPS in order to see the results.

So far, I'm thrilled with the results of my CMH. The one complaint I hear from others is that they get more leaves with CMH than HPS which may make for tedious trimming. But it seems to me that if the plant is producing extra leaves it must be for a good reason and may benefit bud/trich production and/or overall plant health.
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
Thanks again. I'm looking at 1000W, and maybe I cut off CMH discussions as a result.

My opinion, after reading many posts on this and other forums and articles, the clearest connection is short internodes, not resin. I happen to think any resin influence wasn't blue, but lower down in the UV range. I think there's a very good chance that UV-b increases resin / potency, not blue.

Again, that's the result of my research project
 

MPL

Member
I been running Horti MH for veg and the first 2 - 3 weeks of flower then switch to a Horti Super HPS until harvest. I seem to get somewhat denser buds and the nodes are tighter than straight MH or HPS.
 
What about the 65K daylight MH bulbs, they are full of color across the bar, more red & blue than either a super hps or super halide.
 

supherbb

Member
I ran MH all the way through flowering one summer in a small room with heat problems. The HPS was toasting the room and I didn't have the fans to keep up with it, so I switched the bulb to MH and temps dropped right in check.

But, I had no control to compare results to. The weed was great, can't say whether it would have been more potent/visually appealing with the HPS but I can say that I did notice a difference in yield. Came in around .35 grams per watt.
 

Phaeton

Speed of Dark
Veteran
When I've posted results of test budroom grows I mention blue and saving time. About a week earlier oil production for the same bud maturity. No gain in oil, just earlier. Seven days out of eighty is an 8.75% increase in yield over time for me.

3600 watts of CMH/MH/HPS 4:2:3, This grew fine plants in 82 days.
The added blue is a 450 nm centered HID. Not full spectrum, no yellow, no red, almost no green. Actinic blue. This added to the mix grew fine plants in 73 days. Average time saved was a week out of nine over the next six months worth of growing.

I tried 10,000K bulbs, they did not help, had to be short wavelength blue.

I ran 133 watts/square foot (still do, half is LED now) although intensity alone without the actinic did not speed things up.
I added the actinic to my LED grow a couple days back, production had slowed back down without it.
All else is no longer the same, we shall see if the effect is still the same.

The sativa reacted stronger than the indica. But only two strains out of hundreds were grown. Expect results on both sides of what I got.

UVB is a different spectrum entirely.
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
Phaeton, so per grow, no added yield, but they finished a week earlier. Same smoke?
 

Bongstar420

Member
Normal sunlight has slightly more blue than red or nearly equal amounts with sunrise/sunset and fall showing slight more reds. The further away from the equator you are, the less UVB. There is almost no UVB where I live during the "normal" harvest period. The flowers are slightly less flavorful and there is less resin. Any bulb that does not push more UVB than normal high noon sunlight at the 40th parallel is no issue for an hour or two of exposure. Just dont stare at the lit bulb-duh. If you cant get a tan under the thing (assuming UVC light is no more than a trace), its not more dangerous than normal sunlight.

http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl...a=X&ei=2MucUvG4KuORigKUwoDwBg&ved=0CDMQ9QEwAA

I am currently running a bulb that puts out 2-3x the 730nm/reds and nearly balanced blues/reds which I was expecting to see produce a lot of stretch (the 730nm overcoming the higher blue ratio) on the Bright Moments Ive got going under it since it is considered quite stretchy. It was bred for HPS, but under more blues, the nodes are only 1-2in. Im flowering a male cut under a mostly red spectrum (like %50 630nm) Chinese light that produces no 730nm and maybe %10 blue and there is 2-3in stretch. A female from an inbred line that I have been working with under the same light is showing a maximum of 1.5in node spacing with an average of .5-1in. IMO the light exerts some effect, but a short bushy plant is best procured through a cultivar rather than a spectrum search. I did not see much benefit to excluding blues or yellow/green/orange's. One thing is for sure in my experience: 24 hrs of too much red gives you a funky looking plant that continuously produces week 2 flowering growth (I saw this on multiple cuts with the most pronounced effect occurring with short flowering period type or late summer/early fall harvest type in other words).
 
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