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BigTokes ~ "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101
- Thread starter BigToke
- Start date
The problem with the drawing is the water doesn't necessarily circulated like that after a few of weeks of root growth . With the supply at the bottom of the buckets, the root growth in a Bio-Bucket or DWC will slow or stop all the circulation to the top of the buckets. It might even cause more roots to flow into the drain line, because the supply flow is pushing roots towards the surface.
Water at the top of buckets will have the highest O2 exchange and forcing it down to the bottom will have the greatest impact.
Having the supply at the bottom of the buckets doesn't improve Bio-Buckets design and might cause more issues. The BigToke design with supplies at the top is proven, stick with the original. Just my 2 cents
Water at the top of buckets will have the highest O2 exchange and forcing it down to the bottom will have the greatest impact.
Having the supply at the bottom of the buckets doesn't improve Bio-Buckets design and might cause more issues. The BigToke design with supplies at the top is proven, stick with the original. Just my 2 cents
Ive got to reply here, I have tokes system running now and it does work awesome, with almost zero maintenence, in fact the only work required is nutrient add-backs and occasionally clearing roots from the drains ( thats enjoyable work anyway) I use a 45 gallon rubbermaid trash can for a res, wrapped in insulation. For anyone concerned about the splashing noise, I have a good fix. First cut 5 3 inch holes around the top peremeter of the can. go to the home depot and buy a 6 inch in-line duct fan, about 25 bucks, and a cheap grounded extension cord. buy a 6 inch round sheetmetal duct tap-in. Finally buy a piece of 6 inch aluminum duct ( its like dryer duct but 6 inches and expandable) . Cut a hole in the top of the can lid and install the tap-in, seal it with duct tape, install the the duct fan onto the tap-in and the 6 inch duct onto the fan.( I assume you have already installed the cord onto the fan, make sure the green wire on the cord is installed always ground your electrical!!) and seal everything with tape. Put the lid on your reservoir, expand the duct ( mine goes straight up) and plug in the fan and let it run. There you go, you have just cut the noise down by 80% . Another thing about pumps. I use a danner mag-drive 18 (1800 gph) for my 12 buckets. timed flow at the bucket drains is just over 17 changes an hour on each bucket. You must remember when using mag drives is that though they flow water well, the more head height, or resistance, the pump works against the less flow, much less than a standard pump. You have to plumb them like you would for say natural gas, you want volume because you dont have a lot of pressure working for you (mag-drives aren't capable of very high pressures) My pump has a 3/4 inch inlet and outlet. To be able to get the required flow-rates you have to think big when you plumb. If I was to use 3/4 inch pipe for the main supply, I would never achieve these flow rates. I use 3/4 pipe for the supply line from the res to the pump, but for my supply to the buckets I adapted from 3/4 to 2 inches on the supply, with t-fittings from 2 inches to 3/4 to feed each bucket. If you read the pumps documentation, it leads you in the same direction. The flow is so good that I cloud confidently add 6 buckets to the system and still have enough flow. Mag drive pumps are extremely reliable and you can confidently run them non-stop for months without trouble or maintenance, and the power they use is trivial, i believe 135 watts for the Danner 18 .
Is there a company out there that is manufacturing this system for sale?
I have searched the internet and believe the answer is "no", but maybe someone here knows where this system can be purchased already manufactured.
I would give this system a go but the task of DIY'ing a 45 or 50 bucket system is too much for me.
I have searched the internet and believe the answer is "no", but maybe someone here knows where this system can be purchased already manufactured.
I would give this system a go but the task of DIY'ing a 45 or 50 bucket system is too much for me.
DieselsMMK
New member
Had to post my current DWC Project!
Props to BigTokes and shouts to RumpleForeskin over at GC!
4, 5 Gallon buckets (3 large plants, 1 resevoir)
Have 1/2" Drainage connected at the bottom, and 1/2" fill lines at the top. The skinnier black tubing is the air hose for the pumps (1 Stone for each bucket including the resevoir, 2 pumps)
FEEDBACK GREATLY APPRECIATED!
Props to BigTokes and shouts to RumpleForeskin over at GC!
4, 5 Gallon buckets (3 large plants, 1 resevoir)
Have 1/2" Drainage connected at the bottom, and 1/2" fill lines at the top. The skinnier black tubing is the air hose for the pumps (1 Stone for each bucket including the resevoir, 2 pumps)
FEEDBACK GREATLY APPRECIATED!
raygun
Active member
The problem with the drawing is the water doesn't necessarily circulated like that after a few of weeks of root growth . With the supply at the bottom of the buckets, the root growth in a Bio-Bucket or DWC will slow or stop all the circulation to the top of the buckets. It might even cause more roots to flow into the drain line, because the supply flow is pushing roots towards the surface.
Water at the top of buckets will have the highest O2 exchange and forcing it down to the bottom will have the greatest impact.
Having the supply at the bottom of the buckets doesn't improve Bio-Buckets design and might cause more issues. The BigToke design with supplies at the top is proven, stick with the original. Just my 2 cents
I ran the buckets for a few years in my cab. I had the supply coming in to the bottom and then on aprox a 45 or more acute angle to create that whirlpool effect. You will have plenty of water flow to move through those roots. Even when they fill the bucket they are still squishy, will squash up and allow the water to flow through and around. They don't turn in to some solid impermeable mass in your bucket, like some supercanna root structure that only kryptonite can weaken.
As much as it does become a HUGE mass the supply line at the bottom of the bucket worked fantastically for me. You are going to get roots in your drains any way you do it. One day you will find out I think it happends to every Bio-bucket grow. There are some fixes you can do but still the roots will find a way. In that mannor they are supercanna....
Check out my bio-bucket grow thread in my signature.
I've switched to coco because I'm now searching for some need genes and 4 at a time would take an eternity. However when I find that gem its back to the buckets. So easy no fuss no mess and once you get an auto top off for your rez life is on easy street
raygun
Active member
I typically tried to use the smaller ones as they add more surface area for benifitals to grow. As long as they look porus and not like a solid rock. You need the little nooks and crannies for the roots to grab on to and support the plant. However pummice (the small stuff that looks like perlite) is to small IMO.
I have personaly used the smaller rocks and the didnt work for me , but then I grow trees. I use 1 1/2 inch red lava in 8 inch net pots and its working great, but the I also use rocks in my res as an additional place for bennies to live and grow. I lost my first 2 crops to a problem that I will share with you. 1st 2 times I placed the clones in the pots and they grew well for a couple weeks and then stem rot sets in. Twice this happened before I nailed it down with help here. What happened is I had the stems of the clones submerged in water, I guess that couses stem rot. This time I lited the pots 1 1/2 inches after roots showed and they are doing fine.
Thanks for the advice guys. Okay so I'll go with the larger size lava rocks (at least 1 inch) and thanks for the tip about keeping the stems out of the water.
The more I know going into this the fewer problems I should encounter down the road.
I'm still waiting on seeds but I want to start gathering materials ahead of time.
Another question if you don't mind.
I read somewhere that growing out more than one strain at a time doesn't work so well.
Something about growing in the same medium causing the taste and high to be pretty much the same no matter the variety of seed.
Any truth in that?
The more I know going into this the fewer problems I should encounter down the road.
I'm still waiting on seeds but I want to start gathering materials ahead of time.
Another question if you don't mind.
I read somewhere that growing out more than one strain at a time doesn't work so well.
Something about growing in the same medium causing the taste and high to be pretty much the same no matter the variety of seed.
Any truth in that?
Though I have never tried it, I believe that come from the diffrent rates diffrent strains feed at, IE heavy feeders/ light feeders depending on strain. That would be hard to control on a single res recycling system like the bio-buckets. Big toke did it though if you will backtrack a bit and read earlier posts of his, he mentions the strains he grew, but I think he said he wouldn't do it again. I made the mistake of flowering a bit late, my fucking 8x11x7 ft. room is curently a jungle, I shit you not, I grow verticaly and with 3K and I can't see the walls, and most of my plants are touching the ceiling. Things happen FAST in the buckets and if you follow tokes directions when you construct them, they work beautifully. Again, never had to do a res change out, and never had to do a PH adjustment, except for the start-up adjustment. I started with 12 buckets , 12 clones, I lost one clone and didnt replace it, glad I didn't cause you can't even see the missing bucket for the jungle. So, 11 plants completely fill the room, and obviously next time I will switch them over sooner.The main stems are over an inch thick on these bitches. unbelievable.
raygun
Active member
Yeah you do not want to submerge the stem. Now because I vegged in a separate section i could submerge mine a little further and make the stem level with the water line but I already had a decent root structure going.
What I did this time was submerge the stem a bit till I saw roots grow out the net pot, then I raised the pots 1 1/2 inches, and they have been going strong since.I figure my mistake the last times was I put the clones in when the had tiny roots, and left them submerged, not good, live and learn.
. Thanks for this tut. Hey BigToke or someone that has designed this, What are the materials used to do this Bio Buckets?few questions for the big toke apprentices.....
1. Is co2 necessary for such ridiculous explosive growth...... does it help in the swell?
2. I noticed that BT has used GH 0-2-3 ..... however, contemplating org guano tea..... with something like a 11-13-10 ...... is that gon be a problem? figure with a tea, would be excellent for colony development
3. When to flip the switch with limited space..... was thinking long the lines of cab scrog.... everything designed..... excellent DO system..... tons and tons of oxygen..... jus dont wan have space issues..... ideas?
4. Will bio ultimately improve the quality of air in the environment..... i.e. creating a system that fosters positive airborne microbes..... will that improve quality of air?
5. When doing tap water add backs.... will the chlorine kill my colony?
Thats it for now,
Thanks for the helps~!
T
1. Is co2 necessary for such ridiculous explosive growth...... does it help in the swell?
2. I noticed that BT has used GH 0-2-3 ..... however, contemplating org guano tea..... with something like a 11-13-10 ...... is that gon be a problem? figure with a tea, would be excellent for colony development
3. When to flip the switch with limited space..... was thinking long the lines of cab scrog.... everything designed..... excellent DO system..... tons and tons of oxygen..... jus dont wan have space issues..... ideas?
4. Will bio ultimately improve the quality of air in the environment..... i.e. creating a system that fosters positive airborne microbes..... will that improve quality of air?
5. When doing tap water add backs.... will the chlorine kill my colony?
Thats it for now,
Thanks for the helps~!
T
1. Adding CO2 never hurts, when done properly. You can get amazing growth without CO2 and many BBers have done it.
3. When to flip is the million dollar question, without knowing something about the strain you could easily overgrow a space or cab. A cab SCROG many be tough, but possible. The reason is that access to the buckets to clear the drain line might be difficult with a multiple plants woven into a fixed screen.
Now if you did a separate SCROG screen for each bucket, that has worked for BB. Petemoss has done SCROG BB.
4. My mood improves everytime I walking into the room!
5. Read BigTokes post Basic Water Chemistry it's very helpful.
Good luck and start growing!!!
3. When to flip is the million dollar question, without knowing something about the strain you could easily overgrow a space or cab. A cab SCROG many be tough, but possible. The reason is that access to the buckets to clear the drain line might be difficult with a multiple plants woven into a fixed screen.
Now if you did a separate SCROG screen for each bucket, that has worked for BB. Petemoss has done SCROG BB.
4. My mood improves everytime I walking into the room!
5. Read BigTokes post Basic Water Chemistry it's very helpful.
Good luck and start growing!!!
localhero
Member
first off - amazing job Big Toke! ok so im developing a bb system based on your design. I'm trying to avoid making a whole other individual drain system with valves and fittings. If any of the BB pros here can throw their two cents in on this idea, please do. I think I might have come up with a possible solution. so here it is:
- putting a hole in the intake tube inside the bucket, but well above the water line, continuing the intake tube to the bottom of the bucket and possibly inserting an adjustable flow mini sprinkler into said hole.
this will hopefully accomplish 4 things:
1) improved dispersion of intake and hopefully less dead spots.
2) increasing DO by hitting surface with pressurized mini sprinkler
3) the hole in the intake will act as an anti-siphon while completely opened. (hopefully) allowing enough air into the system on pump shut off so as to kill any siphon effect.
4) create a siphoning drain system per each bucket - when adjustable flow mini sprinkler is closed, pump started to innitiate flow and stopped. resulting in a siphon effect and draining bucket through intake. (since the hole in the intake will be closed - not allowing air back into the system).
heres what im thinking could go wrong with this-
a) the hole in the intake would need to be larger than the sprinkler is in order to allow enough air in to break the circuit and kill a siphon effect.
b) lets say the hole made by the sprinkler is large enough - what if something clogs it?
c) would the back flow through the pump fuck with the pump? (external magnetic pump) if so im thinking i could make a circumventing loop around the pump and toss a shut off ball valve on it.
d) i doubt there will be enough pressure in the system to allow the sprinkler to... sprinkle? lol
any ideas on this would help - the goal being less bulkheads/fittings/hose/pipe/$/ways to sprout a leak/ yet still being able to mass drain my bio bucket system.
- putting a hole in the intake tube inside the bucket, but well above the water line, continuing the intake tube to the bottom of the bucket and possibly inserting an adjustable flow mini sprinkler into said hole.
this will hopefully accomplish 4 things:
1) improved dispersion of intake and hopefully less dead spots.
2) increasing DO by hitting surface with pressurized mini sprinkler
3) the hole in the intake will act as an anti-siphon while completely opened. (hopefully) allowing enough air into the system on pump shut off so as to kill any siphon effect.
4) create a siphoning drain system per each bucket - when adjustable flow mini sprinkler is closed, pump started to innitiate flow and stopped. resulting in a siphon effect and draining bucket through intake. (since the hole in the intake will be closed - not allowing air back into the system).
heres what im thinking could go wrong with this-
a) the hole in the intake would need to be larger than the sprinkler is in order to allow enough air in to break the circuit and kill a siphon effect.
b) lets say the hole made by the sprinkler is large enough - what if something clogs it?
c) would the back flow through the pump fuck with the pump? (external magnetic pump) if so im thinking i could make a circumventing loop around the pump and toss a shut off ball valve on it.
d) i doubt there will be enough pressure in the system to allow the sprinkler to... sprinkle? lol
any ideas on this would help - the goal being less bulkheads/fittings/hose/pipe/$/ways to sprout a leak/ yet still being able to mass drain my bio bucket system.
