BHO textures and yields

[Gray Wolf]

GW, could you get a thermo reading of the VacChamber? what did you reach as a peak temp as you were vac/baking? and are you still satisfied with a mean temperature of @115f for vacuum dessication? (I guess I'm asking if you guys still play around with that number? or are you pretty standardized as 115f being the optimum for "unheated" shatter?)

We will be playing with the 115F some more when we get the vacuum oven dialed in, but all our samples are currently run at that temperature. The way we arrived at that number, was to pull a vacuum on some oil and then start heating it up until the bubbles broke free. Our laser pyromenter reads 115F when that happens, with the oil we run, but it could vary some by strain.

 

[Waxmasta Flex]

Properly made AA wont budder. Ive ran pounds of bho to AA and tried everything i could to change the texture. Whipping it would only put alot of air bubbles, vac hardly did anything except expand air bubbles. As soon as i scrape the AA off the pyrex its already turned glass on the razorade. I dont use my vac to purge waste of time if you ask me. I bought a descicator And pump. I would much rather do a low heat purge. Takes me 4-6 hours doing a hot water purge to get honeycomb. Vac'd honeycomb usually gets more heat exposed and is usually darker and less appealing to me.
Infact i just did a large batch im gonna get it tested and see if there are residuals and cannabinoid levels.

yep whipping add bubbles...
but if u whip it enough and then vac it
and THEN bake it dry, you can get it to dry into a "wax" or crumble...
i mean ive done it...
its a very very fine line between drying your o2 puffed up clean oil muffin and just remelting back down into glass....and i have certainly done that many times, where it looks puffed then just is sap again when deflates...
just a matter of right temp imho

again, these are just my observations and experience..
ive run units and units of oil as well...ive had a vac for over a yr now so have had some time to experiment...
last dude came to run his shit was trippin cuz he said he wanted comb n we had it all clear etc...
next day when he saw it he tripped out...did NOT think id be able to get it to the state it was in frmo when he last saw it...

 

[Crooked8]

Ok, what is winterizing??? Ive been making bho extracts for a while and ive run into an issue. It doesnt wax anymore now matter how much i whip it. It stays clear and doesnt get hard or sugary. So confused? What makes it turn into glass vs wax?? Just purge methods?

 

[Crooked8]

Ive been doing exactly this. 100ish grams of sugar trim per tube. 4 cans of tane 300ml each. Then i hot water bathe the bho on another pyrex dish with water for the bath then that sits on a skillet at roughly 170 degrees. Afterward, i hand whip it until it gets super difficult then it usually just dries out into comb. Not sure whats up but its staying soft and clear and it smells shitty like bho. Im reading you can bake in the oven. Id love a tip or two.

 

[Gray Wolf]

Ive been doing exactly this. 100ish grams of sugar trim per tube. 4 cans of tane 300ml each. Then i hot water bathe the bho on another pyrex dish with water for the bath then that sits on a skillet at roughly 170 degrees. Afterward, i hand whip it until it gets super difficult then it usually just dries out into comb. Not sure whats up but its staying soft and clear and it smells shitty like bho. Im reading you can bake in the oven. Id love a tip or two.

170F will decarboxylate the oil and make it soft, besides driving off terpenes. I would suggest trying 125/140F in thin films or 115F under vacuum.

 

[Gray Wolf]

One point that I failed to mention in my post above, is that the shatter in picture 4 is fully purged of butane and could be used at that point.

 

[JimmyRow]

winterized bho

winterized bho

I started off with 60g ground sugar leaf and larf. yielded 6.2g bho. Thin film purged @ 125 4hrs.
Dissolved in 150ml. 190 ever clear and stored in the freezer for 48 hrs. Its cool watching the waxes fall out.

^^24 hrs into winterization

Strained and thin film purged at 125f for 4 hrs. I ended up w/ 5.2g AA. looks like I lost 15% while winterizing. Does that sound right. This was made with ground mediocre product. But the final product is supreme. Tomorrow im gonna pack the tube without grinding and check yields. Thanks for the tips all.

I will say a patient came by and we did side by side dabs of budder and AA. He left with the budder. But his eyes lit up when I said budder, but I think he was sold just cause he'd heard of it. Which is fine with me, cause I'm only smoking the amber.

 

[SpaceshipNelson]

looks like I lost 15% while winterizing. Does that sound right.

sounds right, and ime I've found that the extra yield you get out of grinding, is negated by all the extra precipitates that fall out during winterization. (six of one, half a dozen of the other).

 

[JimmyRow]

sounds right, and ime I've found that the extra yield you get out of grinding, is negated by all the extra precipitates that fall out during winterization. (six of one, half a dozen of the other).

Thanks for the input. I was thinking that, just thought I'd try both ways.
Cheers!

 

[SpaceshipNelson]

I like grinding as it feels like the rational thing to do, but for what ever reason it seems to unlock more chlorophyll, I'll winterize an then toss it back in the freezer for 24hrs to see if anything else falls out(usually clarified enough nothing precipitates) but it does seem to require a slightly longer UV treatment (as pertaining to; trim/shake/larf, the material ran with straight flowers is almost always golden, and requires no UV) ..

 

[JimmyRow]

I have to be honest, I haven't ran across anything regarding the UV treatment. Could you expand a bit? Another ? About grinding. I can fit 60+g ground and 45g non ground. I have a trash bag full of this product to run, so if I'm going to winterize all of it wouldnt it make sense to grind it and pull out undesirables w/ ethanol?

Also does anyone have an opinion on temperature of the dried product and butane prior to blasting?

Thanks

 

[hammalamma]

I have to be honest, I haven't ran across anything regarding the UV treatment. Could you expand a bit? Another ? About grinding. I can fit 60+g ground and 45g non ground. I have a trash bag full of this product to run, so if I'm going to winterize all of it wouldnt it make sense to grind it and pull out undesirables w/ ethanol?

Also does anyone have an opinion on temperature of the dried product and butane prior to blasting?

Thanks

A lot of people will say that frozen material and cold butane will pull less waxes, I think that only works when doing a soak method. Jump explained it really well, I think he said that the pressure created in the tube will raise the temp anyways, I could be wrong.

 

[Crooked8]

So i just sampled a small amount of bho i was having trouble with. I put a small amount on a pyrex dish and let it bake just under 150 degrees for a bit. Took it out let it cool and the color had changed dramatically to what im used to. Much lighter gold color. I tasted it and i must say the flavor is improved even from my usual batches that became dried waxes simply from air drying after whipping. Still confused as to the purpose of winterizing. You mix alchohol or ethanol with your liquid bho you just blasted and for what? To seperate undesirables like what? Doesnt running butane through a tube already do that? It seperates the trichs by boiling them off and transferring them into a liquid which is then purged away leaving our wonderful product. If you have a good filter on the end of your tube arent you in pretty good shape? Id love to learn more about this and advanced methods of creating different product types. Ive achieved these textures simply by blasting into a dish, whipping like hell then transferring the product to parchment to dry. Ive seen a texture where it was in between wax and glass, like golden balls of broken glass, i want that texture...not very interested in amber.

 

[SpaceshipNelson]

I think you're right Hamma. .

An Jimmy, its really useful in getting rid of any chlorophyll that carries over into your post winterized absolute (happens to me mostly when using bottoms, larf,mid-lower grade trim, grinding excessively. But fear NOT! :-D take your post winterized/filtered liquid (in a mason jar or what ever) and put it out in the sun for anywhere from 1hr-6hrs depending on; intensity of sun vs. ambient temp(try and keep the liquid cool, but the intensity of sunlight high), amount of liquid, and most importantly quality of material. Now some people are a little gun shy to throw their hard earned absolute out into the sunlight, but I assure you, the UV protective qualities of THC are more than enough to protect it for the exposure you need to breakdown the chlorophyll. Plus, who the hell wants green dragon? When you can have golden dragon? I've tried winterizing a second/third time after treating it with sweet sweet golden sunlight, just to see if there was enough green gunk to fall out, and there never seems to be enough to actually make it worth another round in the freezer. I am curious what chlorophyll oxidates to when exposed to UVA/B, what ever it is, it never seems to affect final taste profile, or leave anymore residue on the dauber when vaporizing.

SideNote: I've tried quite a few alternative spectrum's/lumen's [HPS,Halide,OTT light,incandescent] and NOTHING works as well as good old mother nature.. . . Everything we have was given to us by the sun! ;-)

 

[SpaceshipNelson]

oh I'm sorry Crooked, Winterizing is used to pull out as much cellulose&fat as possible from your final material, makes an otherwise cloudy mess, clear and clean! :-D

(lots of threads on the subject here on ICmag for further review).

 

[Crooked8]

oh I'm sorry Crooked, Winterizing is used to pull out as much cellulose&fat as possible from your final material, makes an otherwise cloudy mess, clear and clean! :-D

(lots of threads on the subject here on ICmag for further review).

Thanks bud!

 

[DabSnob]

both of these were made the same day, same method (vacuum purge), same temperature (160 degree water bath) EVERYTHING. in my experience the texture is all in the strain. ive been making BHO for almost 4 years. i enjoy every style of oil, runny, buttery, waxy, and amber as long as i cant taste butane its a solid product.

both of these were nug runs NO TRIMMINGS

TGA Subcool- Deep Purple


Grand daddy purps

 

[JimmyRow]

I may be off, but it seems most vac purge at 115 in a thin film and find it sufficient. I have heard certain strains have a tendency to budder. 160 may be too warm.

 

[Crooked8]

Yeah i keep reading 120 degrees is the ticket

 

[DabSnob]

you can read all you like but you have to try it for yourself. 120 always left a Butane flavor IMO. i like 160 for multiple reasons, it takes less time to purge all the butane, and you still retain smell and flavor. both the oils i made in the pictures above were 160 degree batches, completely different texture, only difference... strain. im not trying to argue just throwing in my opinion on the subject with pictures to back it up.