best way to get rid of spider mites

[Lowellprince]

As for fans and spider mites? That is actually a problem, not a solution. Wind is the main way that spider mites get around and move from plant to plant in the wild. Especially tiny broad mites. They are mere specs of dust that travel far in any wind.

Spider mites love heat and stagnant, non-moving air. They can't mate in windy conditions so a strong fan can help keep the infestation from getting worse. A breeze also helps pest treatments go better because fans help spray treatments dry on the plant. So think what u want but I guaran damn tee it is an aid, not a detriment. Tits

 

[St. Phatty]

Only time I've had control over spider mites was when I mixed up a dip tank of Safer's.

1 bottle concentrate, 1 big rubbermaid tank, and some water to mix it up.

Dip the plant, LET IT DRY, move plants gently & slowly back into the full light.

Then repeat about every 2 days.

In addition to spraying everything around the garden.


If the plants are in soil, you need to make a cardboard thing to hold the soil in the pot when you dip it. Or your Safer's tank becomes filled with dirt.

 

[paradoxlost]

Spider mites love heat and stagnant, non-moving air. They can't mate in windy conditions so a strong fan can help keep the infestation from getting worse. A breeze also helps pest treatments go better because fans help spray treatments dry on the plant. So think what u want but I guaran damn tee it is an aid, not a detriment. Tits

I'm inclined to agree, a strong breeze usually does more harm than good especially in a larger grow. They can find shelter to mate. Weed is a very leafy plant.

 

[Boyd Crowder]

floramite - end of story

 

[caligrownc]

Avid and forbid!

 

[packerfan79]

Neem 3x a week for 3 weeks.

 

[PdxFarms]

floramite - end of story

Hate to say it but X2^^^
If you have a serious problem...
Floramite, rotate with avid 2 weeks apart in veg, never see them again.

I wouldn't use it in flower. In flower stick with your organics and manage it as best you can until finish. Then scrub the room down, empty a 20lb co2 tank in there. if it's that bad, hit your veg with the Shit that works. Once you've got them gone then go back to organic preventatives.

I've dealt with them before on a number of grows, nothing organic will eradicate them. And I've tried everything under the sun, with absolute 100 percent coverage at proper intervals and at best it knocks them back a bit but they always came back.

Everyone's situation, grow size, location, mite genetics and other factors are different...so try the organic ways first. But when push comes to shove, your best bet is to eradicate them in one fell swoop and move on.

If you're dealing with just 4, 6, maybe 10 plants you might have a chance with some home remedies.

I don't believe in many of the off the shelf bs mite control. It may work for some but never has for me. Everything from frequency infused water, rosemary oils, neem and the thousand other ways that are out there but one product that seemed to actually work good that won't kill you was grean clean. Surprisingly a couple of infested clones I got that were quarantined are now 5 weeks old and bug free from head to toe. Dipped and sprayed with green clean every 3rd day.

 

[packerfan79]

Hate to say it but X2^^^
If you have a serious problem...
Floramite, rotate with avid 2 weeks apart in veg, never see them again.

I wouldn't use it in flower. In flower stick with your organics and manage it as best you can until finish. Then scrub the room down, empty a 20lb co2 tank in there. if it's that bad, hit your veg with the Shit that works. Once you've got them gone then go back to organic preventatives.

I've dealt with them before on a number of grows, nothing organic will eradicate them. And I've tried everything under the sun, with absolute 100 percent coverage at proper intervals and at best it knocks them back a bit but they always came back.

Everyone's situation, grow size, location, mite genetics and other factors are different...so try the organic ways first. But when push comes to shove, your best bet is to eradicate them in one fell swoop and move on.

If you're dealing with just 4, 6, maybe 10 plants you might have a chance with some home remedies.

I don't believe in many of the off the shelf bs mite control. It may work for some but never has for me. Everything from frequency infused water, rosemary oils, neem and the thousand other ways that are out there but one product that seemed to actually work good that won't kill you was grean clean. Surprisingly a couple of infested clones I got that were quarantined are now 5 weeks old and bug free from head to toe. Dipped and sprayed with green clean every 3rd day.

The problem with Floramite and others like it is mites become resistant to it. If you are diligent neem works, and if you get or create resistantmites it's pretty much Your only choice. Neem prevents them from eating and breathing, doesn't kill all the eggs so multiple treatments are required.

The best thing is to keep contaminated clones.

 

[DJXX]

Predator mites..end of story...three or four applications and they will be established and abolish them...i have tried everything you can spray...the predators are it..DJXX

 

[packerfan79]

Predator mites..end of story...three or four applications and they will be established and abolish them...i have tried everything you can spray...the predators are it..DJXX

Where do you find predatory mites? I always let the spiders be, in my room.they eat mites also I believe. I like the idea of using what nature provides.

 

[Robrites]

Where do you find predatory mites? I always let the spiders be, in my room.they eat mites also I believe. I like the idea of using what nature provides.

Evergreen supply in Portland has em.

 

[Stan G.]

If you are diligent you can beat bugs. First remove affected leaves from plant. All affected leaves. It is extreme but so are spider mites. Remove the leaves from the premises immediately. Spray plants with Green Cleaner or something similar making sure to spray the bottoms of every leaf, coat the stems, and lightly mist media. Spray your floor, walls, hoods and ducting, soaking any cracks really well. Then use a total release Pyrethrin fogger. Repeat the defoliation and spraying of the room and plants every 2-3 days. in two weeks your bugs will be gone. Spray once a week preventative maintenance until you see dense flowers developing. This will not work if you do not act soon enough. This is how I protect my clone room when bringing in new clones. You should need only one fogger, and the whole process is pretty organic.

 

[OregonBorn]

I have used Avid (abamectin/avermectin B1) with good results against mites. Avid is a contact spray that is also trans-laminar. Meaning that it will enter the leaves and kill any sucking mites and insects on the undersides of the leaves. As such to do not have to saturate the entire plants like you do with oil or soap sprays. Avid has a half life of about a day in water and a day in soil. Plant roots do not take up abamectin from soil through the roots. Abamectin degrades rapidly in sunlight and on leaf surfaces. Like in a matter of 6 hours. I use it on early plants in leaf but not on flowering plants. Abamectin is toxic while in spray form, but once dry on plant leaves can be touched without fear of toxicity. It is not absorbed through the skin or intestinal tract very well. Be advised that it is highly toxic to fish though. Avid can be 100% effective in killing all hatched stages of mites. However, it does not kill the eggs. So they have to be sprayed in intervals, usually 7 days apart in cooler weather, and 5 days in warmer weather (for spider mites). Spray 3 times. Then rotate to another formula as they can and will develop resistance. Also oils and soaps are quite effective, drowning the little suckers. They cannot develop resistance to oils and soaps. But they have to be applied to completely cover all surfaces of the plant. They are also effective as preventatives, and I spray every 10 days with Neem oil to prevent bugs and PM from getting onto my plants.

You can also use raw Neem or azadirachtin as a soil drench and the plants will take up the azadirachtin through the roots and it will become a moderate systemic miticide and pesticide. This process is counter intuitive and not well understood, as azadirachtin is not highly water soluble. Azadirachtin has a half life of 2 days in light and 4 days in water. It dissipates rather fast on leaf surfaces. It is non-toxic to mammals and most beneficial creatures.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

You can also use raw Neem or azadirachtin as a soil drench and the plants will take up the azadirachtin through the roots and it will become a moderate systemic miticide and pesticide. This process is counter intuitive and not well understood, as azadirachtin is not highly water soluble. Azadirachtin has a half life of 2 days in light and 4 days in water. It dissipates rather fast on leaf surfaces. It is non-toxic to mammals and most beneficial creatures.

Sorry, aza does not dissipate rather quickly, it's absorbed into the plant systemically and stays there for months. I've tested it twice and had it still be in the plant at 72 days after treatment. How do I know? I'm one of those who are highly allergic to it. Anti-histamine products (benadryl, allarest) drastically reduce symptoms of CHS from aza.

Unrefined neem oil, neem seed meal (in large quantity) and azadirachtin products are all huge no-no's for everyone sensitive to aza. There seems to be a large percentage of people who are mildly affected as well, yet don't connect the aza use with their symptoms. Very subtle.

Break the breeding cycle, as mentioned. It takes 14 days and can be done with other natural insecticidal soap products.

 

[MrBungle]

Aza only present for that long if you use photostabilizers with it, such as 8-Hydroxy quinoline and ter. butyl hydroquinone.... otherwise the "Half-life of azadirachtin has been found to be 48 min and 3.98 days as thin film under UV light and sunlight and 2.47 days on leaf surface, respectively. " https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12856927

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Aza only present for that long if you use photostabilizers with it, such as 8-Hydroxy quinoline and ter. butyl hydroquinone.... otherwise the "Half-life of azadirachtin has been found to be 48 min and 3.98 days as thin film under UV light and sunlight and 2.47 days on leaf surface, respectively. " https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12856927

Wrong kind of study for cannabis. "We're" not working with thin films, we're working with plants. Leaf surface? I'm talking about IN the plant.

Mixed directly with water, nothing but azmax/water and azatrol/water. Exact same results... 100%, still in the plant after 72 days. Period.

 

[MrBungle]

I'm pretty sure the plan with azamax or aza trol or whatever aza product you plan on using... is to spray it on the leaf surface to fight the bugs.... sure you could dump it on the root zone but why? we are smoking it after all


edit : I see where the root drench was suggested... yea not the best of ideas with cannabis... stick to foliar applications

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

I'm pretty sure the plan with azamax or aza trol or whatever aza product you plan on using... is to spray it on the leaf surface to fight the bugs.... sure you could dump it on the root zone but why? we are smoking it after all


edit : I see where the root drench was suggested... yea not the best of ideas with cannabis... stick to foliar applications

Sorry, no wash.

I tested both root drench and spray with each test of aza products. Same results with both root drench and 1st week of flower spray with both products. Only 3ml/gallon also.

Aza is bad shit for cannabis. Period. (Edit: Go look up Cannabis Hyperemesis Syndrome... 90% of it is caused by aza poisoning. The remaining 10% I'm unsure of.)

 

[OregonBorn]

Wrong kind of study for cannabis. "We're" not working with thin films, we're working with plants. Leaf surface? I'm talking about IN the plant.

Mixed directly with water, nothing but azmax/water and azatrol/water. Exact same results... 100%, still in the plant after 72 days. Period.

Maybe your allergy has you all stirred up, psyched out, or whatever. I happen to be allergic to beef protein, but I DO NOT TELL EVERYONE NOT TO EAT BEEF! Actually I do not tell anyone not to eat beef. It is not my place to tell people how to live their lives based on my personal issues and problems.

So PLEASE spare us YOUR endless mantra about the evils of Neem. Not everyone is allergic to it as you claim. The state of Oregon allows for its use, and they were the first state to ever require testing for pesticides in marijuana. Never mind what people spray on MJ for the black market. Neem oil and raw neem and aza are all listed as organic applications and allowed for use in this state on marijuana, and certified as being safe. And this state is completely ANAL about sprays and testing marijuana. California will also likely allow for its use. Like it or not, it is on the state lists for approved sprays for marijuana.

Also the FACT is that inside a plant leaf and the plant vascular system, it is 100% humidity. Otherwise it would not work. Meaning a water exposure environment. As such the half life for aza in the plant should be the same as in water.[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

If anything I would think that you would be screaming about the use of Avid, which is a KNOWN TOXIN to mammals when inhaled. But apparently that is not an issue? Amusing.

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[Mikell]

It is easier to ignore him. No one makes Dougie more a fool than himself. Pestering him will just get you added to his lengthy Ignore list.