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Bacillus amyloliquefaciens strain D747*
- Thread starter grod31
- Start date
There are two major groups of fungicides available for use on plants. : biological and chemical based. The bio-fungicides are composed of living microorganisms like bacteria and fungi as active ingredients and are effective against the pathogens that cause turf disease. Google
The inorganic fungicides formulated from sulfur, copper, and potassium are in wide use as foliar fungicides and are approved for organic farming. Elemental sulfur is the oldest fungicide. Google
A grower can completely eliminate fungicides if they match the right strain to their environment. Sativa's tolerate more heat and wetter growing environments. While Indicas grow in colder dryer regions. If you put an Indica in a wet topic environment you will have problems with mold. Or if you try to grow a Sativa in a cold dry region up north it will fail before its finished. Match the best strain with your environment and you won't need anything at all.
The inorganic fungicides formulated from sulfur, copper, and potassium are in wide use as foliar fungicides and are approved for organic farming. Elemental sulfur is the oldest fungicide. Google
A grower can completely eliminate fungicides if they match the right strain to their environment. Sativa's tolerate more heat and wetter growing environments. While Indicas grow in colder dryer regions. If you put an Indica in a wet topic environment you will have problems with mold. Or if you try to grow a Sativa in a cold dry region up north it will fail before its finished. Match the best strain with your environment and you won't need anything at all.
I would be worried about taste/smell problems if used on the buds more than anythine else.. For vegetables, cause u wash them, you can use it up to last day, maybe if you use it on flowering plants with buds, better to wash them at harvest time as well..? But I would avoid it.
Ca++
Well-known member
A number of approved products use it. It can be used as sprays or drench. It will collinate a plant quite quickly. Personally I would get it on after stretch at the latest. Enough products exist to get directions from one though. https://generalhydroponics.com/wp-content/uploads/General-Hydroponics_label_DefGuard.pdf
Edit: Be aware with the southern ag product, that many people can't read the bottle. Leading to bad conversions. Over application leads to growing far too much, and people then need h2o2 to knock it back
Edit: Be aware with the southern ag product, that many people can't read the bottle. Leading to bad conversions. Over application leads to growing far too much, and people then need h2o2 to knock it back
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I have used fungicides many times working for other people that paid me to work, and they were a big rip-off. Not one time did they work enough to keep the mold from blooming. Inorganic fungicide has to be applied at just the right time or "window" to catch spores while they are immature and then repeated in sequence. Bio-fungicides have to be applied way before a break-out to work best. Weak, sick, over-crowded plants, that are over-fertilized, can not be saved with any fungicides.
grod. If you give it a try and get back and post your findings it would be helpful to see what you find. .
grod. If you give it a try and get back and post your findings it would be helpful to see what you find. .
Ca++
Well-known member
I use organocide. It's approved, or rather, doesn't need approval so was approved. I'm not sure I would call it organic, it's chemicals. Works on contact, and systemic. It's hard to say if the systemic action has been useful, but contact has certainly knocked mold back.
The D747 is used by farmers here. Usually two hits a season. One early, and one mid term. That's why I spoke about after stretch. My idea to cover the plant at full size, and let it collinate. I'm not totally sure what it eats, but any later and it's not in the heart of the buds. I like a good clean stick for my buds to form around. So clean them at the last minute.
We know the rot starts in the middle, and thus I imagine the spores were there before the buds grew. As how would they get into a tight bud, if the healthy bud isn't a food source for them. Like a block of cheese, would something landing on them, not grow on the outside. Bread mold. Wallpaper mold. They all start on the surface and root? in. I think it's cleanliness at the heart of the matter, that matters. With light applications of systemic stuff, just a bit of a top-up
The D747 is used by farmers here. Usually two hits a season. One early, and one mid term. That's why I spoke about after stretch. My idea to cover the plant at full size, and let it collinate. I'm not totally sure what it eats, but any later and it's not in the heart of the buds. I like a good clean stick for my buds to form around. So clean them at the last minute.
We know the rot starts in the middle, and thus I imagine the spores were there before the buds grew. As how would they get into a tight bud, if the healthy bud isn't a food source for them. Like a block of cheese, would something landing on them, not grow on the outside. Bread mold. Wallpaper mold. They all start on the surface and root? in. I think it's cleanliness at the heart of the matter, that matters. With light applications of systemic stuff, just a bit of a top-up
