Depending on how many - should be able to fit all the temps on one screen anyway; worst case upgrade to a 20x4 screen (20 characters wide, 4 lines) - I'm just planning on a 16x2 as they're much cheaper; and I don't really see the point in keeping an eye on all the temps - just those that really matter...
Not too many people use the dot matrix lcd's with the arduino - probably because of limited memory space (ie not enough memory to have much program left after the displays programmed).
However, I do tend to default to the easiest method...lol ya iv had the same problem since the beginning of both of your threads. im in way over my head with this stuff, so im just going to sit back and watch and learn(and copy) what you guys got going on.
There I go again... I need a
Don't worry about that... Here's the important part:
8 individually switched 110v plugs - adequate? This is the number of devices you can control via the system; lights, pumps, 110v fans, etc.
4 Digital input/outputs - You'd tie in your temp sensors here (for the DS18B20's - you can have 16 on one input) - or possibly stepper motors (dosing pumps); or float switches that have 3 wires.
5 analog inputs/outputs - places to tie in non digital devices (ie light sensors (watch for light penetration at night & in theory maybe monitor bulb output during the day)) - 2 wire float switches; Things that you want to read non 1/0 voltage/etc from - or possibly feed 0-5v to.
Software is the part I have trouble with - I'll probably steal someone elses and modify to suit my general needs... Then let some people who actually know what they're doing further develop it
Ok, so 240 is a bit different - but same relay / Solid state relay240V over here...but I'm sure th@ can be sorted out.
8 plugs, huh?..lets see
comparison to my current set up is simply to see if it mmet my needs.
3 X 400W HPS on/off 3 plugs
1 X carbon-filter/Cabinet Exhaust Fan Module 1 plug
1 X Fan for Air Cooled Hood 1 plug
2-4 aquarium air pumps 1 plug {on oscillating fans pwrboard}
2 oscillating fans 1 plug {on pwrboard}
1 X 34W stationary fan 1 plug{on oscillating fans pwrboard}
1 X 30cm ceiling exhaust fan 1 plug
1 X reverse cycle climate controlled Convair portable air-conditioner.
And you'd be left on your own for those anyway 
Touchscreen? Did someone say touchscreen?
Will continue the arduino development in my thread I'll post good stuffs in here though...DoubleWide ExtenderShield
one of the cool things about the Arduino is that you can add shields to it to make it do whatever you want it to do. But sometimes you just run out of room. And I don’t feel like swapping in my OLED touchscreen with my Zigbee and my Lithium Backpack. So how do you get everything you want, all at the same time?
Enter the ExtenderShield. Plug in an Arduino to the underside and it replicates all of the pins in two locations. The pin replicators keep everything connected. Talk about modular design…this makes it happen!
How you want to organize your device is all up to you. ExtenderShield comes assembled with stack through headers soldered, or unassembled as a kit. This makes it a snap to connect an Arduino from the backside.
DoubleWide ExtenderShield is two Arduino widths by one Arduino length. Looking for a different layout? Try the DoubleTall ExtenderShield
Specs
4.2in tall x 2.7in wide
108mm tall x 69mm wide
Arduino replicated mounting holes
Arduino replicated plated through-holes
Solderable dev area
DoubleTall ExtenderShield
Specs
5.6in tall x 2.0in wide
142mm tall x 51mm wide
Arduino replicated mounting holes
Arduino replicated plated through-holes
Solderable dev area
TripleWide ExtenderShield X
For more advanced projects, sometimes connecting 2 shields together isn’t enough. Quite a few people have written in over the past few months asking for a TripleWide, so here it is. The catch is that it’s also a “X” edition, which means it works with the Arduino or the Illuminato. It pins out and replicates each of the Illuminato pins 3 times over, so three shields can be wired up side by side.
Specs
6.3in tall x 2.7in wide
162mm tall x 69mm wide
Arduino and Illuminato replicated mounting holes
Arduino and Illuminato replicated plated through-holes
Solderable dev area
Triangle Extenders
Christopher Columbus didn't believe the world was flat, so why should every gadget or project be that way? Sometimes I don't like having to move my neck 2 inches in order to look down onto whatever program I'm writing for my Arduino, and I wish the Arduino had a way of propping up my shield… 45 degrees would suffice, thanks!
Now all your projects and gadgets can stand up vertically on their own, without falling over, looking top heavy, or needing silly putty to keep them at just the right angle.
The Triangle Extenders solve all those problems with a special extender for the right side, and another for the left that replicate all of the Arduino’s pins forward, up, and out 45 degrees. Then, just snap a shield onto the pin headers, and hack away!
Specs
1.77×1.15 inches
142mm x 30mm PCB only
Arduino replicated mounting holes for left and right
Arduino replicated plated through-hole headers for left and right
Arduino Mega
At last, an Arduino with a name I can pronounce! The latest core of the Arduino platform, launched in early 2009. Details from the Arduino website :
“The Arduino Mega is a microcontroller board based on the ATmega1280 (datasheet). It has 54 digital input/output pins (of which 14 can be used as PWM outputs), 16 analog inputs, 4 UARTs (hardware serial ports), a 16 MHz crystal oscillator, a USB connection, a power jack, an ICSP header, and a reset button. It contains everything needed to support the microcontroller; simply connect it to a computer with a USB cable or power it with a AC-to-DC adapter or battery to get started. The Mega is compatible with most shields designed for the Arduino Duemilanove or Diecimila.
PS – Matt and Chris just built the Arduino Mega Lithium Backpack, which is a rechargeable battery pack that makes the Mega portable and gives it 27 hours of circuit life.
Specs
ATmega1280
54 i/o pins
14 PWM
16 Analog
16MHz
128kB Flash Memory
8kB RAM
Schematic
Arduino XBee Shield
XBee 2.5 Board 1: Knock Knock
XBee 2.5 Board 2: Who’s there?
XBee 2.5 Board 1: XBee.
XBee 2.5 Board 2: “XBee” who?
XBee 2.5 Board 1: XBee a letter dat come before Y.
XBee 2.5 Board 2: (forced) eh heh heh heh…
If you're building a low-level serial-controlled Mesh network, that's probably not too far off from what two of these things would probably say to each other. Hopefully with a little less humor, and a little more baud.
But the airwaves would be a lot less interesting without a pair of Libelium and arduino.cc developed carrier boards to support the XBee 2.5 MaxStream radio. One by itself isn’t all that interesting, but adding two together lets you control and communicate between two Arduino’s, or between an Arduino attached to a laptop and a TankShield skittering across the floor.
Specs
XBee 2.5 protocol
Serial controlled
ButtonShield
I always used my blackberry as the starting point of how I think about modular, open source hardware. It’s got a screen (some have a touchscreen), a motherboard, battery, wireless communication and buttons.
Well, Touchscreen = TouchShield Slide , Motherboard = Arduino , Battery = Lithium Backpack , Wireless = Xbee , and…buttons with the Buttonshield.
So here it is… it’s a shield built for the Arduino profile that has 32 buttons on it. It has a mode A or B selector, so you can wire up two of these directly to an Arduino, a lot like the InputShield , and still have pins for the TouchShield.
And for everything you need to make your own “openberry”, check out the OpenBerry kit over here
Specs
32 key buttons
1 caps lock with dual LEDs
1 space bar
Underglow LED
2 Operating Modes, A & B
Fits squarely on top of Arduino
Datasheet here
ButtonPad
OpenBerry, for instance Now, the ButtonShield has a miniature version, specifically meant for the Arduino Mega-plus-TouchShield Slide.
The ButtonPad is a mini-shield for the Arduino Mega. It is specifically designed to turn the Arduino Mega into a portable gadget, when combined with a TouchShield Slide.
You know that scene at the end of Star Wars, where the spirits of Obi Wan, Anakin Skywalker, and Yoda appear altogether to Luke? In case you forgot, it’s this one… it’s when the eerie theme music plays and you realize Luke has all along just been part of the bigger plan…?
The ButtonShield is like Anakin… tons of power, features, and more midichlorians – er buttons – than you know what to do with. The InputShield is like Obi Wan. The X-Y force is strong with him, but more in an analog sense if you know what I mean. That leaves only one. The ButtonPad is like the Yoda of input shields for the Arduino gadget platform. Small in stature he may be, but powerful his API is.
Specs
18 key buttons
Silkscreen layout for A & B buttons
Silkscreen layout for up-down-left-right selector
6 front edge white LEDs, individually addressable
Fits squarely on top of Arduino MEGA, with plenty of room for the TouchShield Slide
Ethernet Shield
Tinker.it made a pretty neat little shield called the EthernetShield, so I figured I’d pick up a couple to make some projects.
The Ethernet Shield is designed to allow the Arduino base module to connect to the internet easily as a standalone unit. The module carries an onboard WIZnet W5100 Ethernet chip, which provides a network (IP) stack capable of both TCP and UDP, as well as a standard RJ45 Ethernet jack. It supports up to four simultaneous socket connections. An Ethernet library writes sketches that connect to the internet using the shield.
The Ethernet shield connects to an Arduino board using long wire-wrap headers which extend through the shield. This keeps the pin layout intact and allows another shield to be stacked on top.
Update: Using the Ethernet Shield with the Arduino Mega (Thanks to the folks at NKC for figuring this one out!)
Locate spi.h file (it is located under Arduino installation directory > hardware > libraries > Ethernet > utility)
Rename it as spi_orig.h
Download spiMEGA.h”
Rename spiMEGA.h as spi.h
Delete all .o files from utility and Ethernet directories
Start the Arduino IDE
Load or program your Ethernet Library based shield
Compile and upload sketch
Specs
Onboard WIZnet W5100
10/100 Mbps communication
Uses digital pins 10, 11, 12, and 13 (SPI)
Supports Full and Half Duplex communication
RJ45 Ethernet jack
Illuminato X Machina
It’s a new way of organizing the traditional von Neumann computer, called robust physical computing. Rather than subdividing the system into its functional components, robust physical computing breaks the system down into a network of mini-computer units. These units, or ‘cells’ can combine to form a modular, scalable computer capable of adapting its performance to the task at hand.
In less than four square inches, each Illuminato X Machina board contains the elements of a fully functional computer. A single Illuminato X Machina module, or ‘cell’, is equipped with a 72 MHz ARM-based microprocessor, a dedicated EEPROM chip for data storage, and RAM.
LEDs serve as a simple output mechanism, and 14 I/O pins line each of its four edges for maximal node-to-node connectivity.
Each IXM board is blacked out with gold vias and surface mount components for a slim profile. The surface is lined with multiple symmetrical sets of RGB LEDs, which serve as status lights or a desktop light show.
It’s smart enough to know if it’s plugged into a neighbor rightside up, upside down or sideways, and dynamically establishes the correct power, and signal wires to exchange power and information with its neighbors. It truly is a complex adaptive information and power system. In this sense, it is also robust. If a cell in the motherboard grid detects a faulty neighbor, it can attempt to reprogram its neighbor and reboot its neighbor (because the distinction between the system’s firmware, software, and hardware are intentionally ambiguous and one). If this fails, each cell can then elect to disconnect power to its neighbors and “terminate” it from the network, like a cell would do if it detected cancerous growth in its neighbor.
Like living organisms, IXM cells are “social”. They function best when interacting with other groups of cells, autonomously programming, reprogramming, processing and communicating with each other. They can be attached to the computer via USB using a special cable or connector board, and a grid can accept as many USB inputs as it has free edges.
Fundamentally, it’s about making computer architecture accessible to people besides Intel and AMD…a do-it-yourself, open source physical computer, where the computer itself can adapt and be adapted in plug-and-play fashion, no matter what the project may be. And the beauty of open source means that today, it’s a square board with an ARM processor…tomorrow, it may be an octagon with a processor that doesn’t even exist yet. Welcome to the future of computing.
Item ID: IXM-C-RevA-20090623
Technical Elements per Cell
Weight: 24g
L x W x H: 1.87” x 1.87” x 0.25”
General Purpose I/O: 16 pins
Total I/O: 24 pins
Processor Type: 32-bit ARM
Processor Name: LPC2368
Processor Speed: 72 MHz @ 64 Dhrystone MIPS
Processor UART: 4 Hardware UARTs EEPROM: IC SRL EEPROM; 128 KB
Living Elements per Cell
Senses: Outside Voltage Sense, Inside Voltage Sense
Reflexes: Neighbor Shutdown, 4 Blue LEDs, 1 RGB LED
Mode of Interaction: Single Switch Input
Power Management: Output Power, Real-time Frequency Shifting
Illuminato::Genesis
this board has 42 I/O pins and 64K code space for bigger DIY projects, and works with every Arduino shield out there. This Open Source hardware board may not save humanity, but it will save you (and me) from using a ton of 74595 I/O expanders when you don’t have to.
This started out as a project for a close mentor and friend of mine, who kept getting tired trying to teach others how to program LED matrices using 74595 I/O expanders with the Arduino. It also happens to be the first time I tried to make a circuit board actually look like something artistic and designed from the Terminator movies that meant so much to me in middle school
The Illuminato is an AVR based chip, much like the Arduino, and is 100% Open Source – GNU GPL, that is. It has 42 I/O pins, more than any other Arduino clone out there right now, and even works with all the shields built for the Arduino. It has a 16 MHz oscillating crystal (the same as the Arduino), but 64K code space (twice the space) since I tend to run out room when building larger projects.
In keeping with the Italian heritage of the Arduino community, this board is called the “Illuminato.” This also doubles for the fact that there’s a hidden (so to speak) function in the core called bling(), which turns on the backlight array of 10 white, high brightness LED’s.
Chris was kind enough to make a drop-in core so the Illuminato can be programmed directly from the Arduino IDE
Specs
42 digital I/O pins
6 analog I/O pins (doubling as 6 of the digital I/O pins)
64k of code space
16 MHz processor *
InputShield
There’s been all this talk about open source hardware, and I typically pull out my Blackberry Curve and explain it to people this way:
“See this Blackberry? It’s really more or less like most other devices- it’s got a battery, motherboard, screen, USB connection, and buttons…what if you just had a battery, motherboard, screen, buttons and a USB connection? You could make any gadget you want!”
Well here are the buttons! Convenient in a gaming format, when I started playing with these, it was eerily reminiscent of PlayStation joystick controls. Even vibrates with a rumble pack! Wanna make your own Arduino Game Boy? Arduino Genesis? Now you can. That’s why the InputShield is your friend. Check out what Matt made
Specs
1 Joy Stick
2 Buttons
1 Vibration Motor
2 Operating Modes
Pass-through signal header
Fits squarely on top of Arduino
See wiki for additional details and a data sheet
Lithium Backpack
I’m sure you’ve built something cool, which, like any other cool gadget, would be a hundred times cooler if it could be taken more than 10 feet away from the computer. Whether portability is essential to your device or simply a matter of convenience, the Lithium Backpack lets you take your Arduino wherever you go…and have it turn on!
It’s not just about a battery—it’s about power options! As for power, the slim, long-lasting Li-ion battery delivers 9.4, 15, or 29 Arduino hours (Arduino on standby) and is mounted on a PCB that fits snugly onto the backside of an Arduino. Mike tweaked the circuit design to increase the backpack’s efficiency and decrease voltage ripple which means extra battery life to keep everything running smoother and longer on each charge.
What about the options? Well, you can charge it directly through a mini USB port mounted right onto the Backpack, or route it to charge through the core of your device. You can even monitor your own power consumption…try doing that with a standard 9V battery! I would say that the Lithium Backpack takes your device to the next level, but it’s not even about that. What would you say if someone gave you a phone or an iPod without a battery? I don’t know about you, but I would ask them why they stole my battery. Yeah…you need one of these.
Depending on how much juice you need, get these in low, medium, or high capacity.
Specs
Bare battery PCB matches the size of the Arduino
High Capacity 2200mAh Lithium Ion Battery (29 Standby Arduino Hours)
Medium Capacity 1000mAh Lithium Ion Battery (15 Standby Arduino Hours)
Low Capacity 600mAh Lithium Ion Battery (9.4 Standby Arduino Hours)
Rechargeable via Arduino USB
Rechargeable via USB Tybe-B Mini Cable
Supplies regulated 5V and 3.3V
Monitor battery voltage status
Dimensions
L x W = 2.73×2.10 inches (same as the arduino)
medium capacity battery height = 0.299 inches
high capacity battery height = 0.498 inches
TouchShield Stealth
he TouchShield is a 128×128 pixel OLED screen on a PCB shield. It is Arduino-ready and brings advanced I/O capabilities to the Arduino platform!
This is the new Stealth Edition, which has an all-blacked out board that looks pretty slick on top of the dark blue Arduino. It’s also higher quality, machine soldered and assembled, with a few internal trace re-routes to make it a little lighter, faster, and power-redundant.
Compiling and uploading applications to the TouchShield is done through a one-click button in the Arduino Environment, making it easy to write awesome applications.
If you want to save some time and money, have a look at some of our Combo Kits.
Specs
128×128 OLED Screen
262K Colors
Touch Screen
Powered from the Arduino’s 5 VDC pins
Only Uses Arduino Pins: 2 and 3
Holds 60 Full Screen Images
Compatible with Arduino Environment
Arduino Graphics Core Ready to Go
Draw Shapes, Pixels, Colors, Graphs, Buttons and More directly from the Arduino IDE
1.50 inch diagonal
TouchShield Slide
After talking with several TouchShield Stealth users, I decided to build a bigger and more powerful option, for the folks who want that extra capacity. The TouchShield Slide is a widescreen option that makes full use of the space on the Arduino, maximizing screen space. With 340×240 resolution and a resistive touchscreen, the Slide offers clear, precise viewing and tactile sensing – that all fits squarely on the Arduino. As for programming, the Slide runs a core similar to the Stealth, so it’ll be just as easy to get up and running!
Specs
320×240 OLED Screen
Resistive Touch Screen
Storage for 4 full resolution images or 60 128×128 images
Compatible with Arduino Environment
Only Uses Arduino Pins: 2 and 3
Graphics Library Ready to Go
Draw Shapes, Pixels, Colors, Graphs, Buttons with complete ease, using a SubProcessing graphics API
Open PSP Kit
Inspired by the PSP, Matt put together the next kit in the growing realm of Arduino gaming: the Open PSP Kit. With two InputShield joystick controllers, an Arduino Duemilanove, Lithium Backpack and a TouchShield Slide – all mounted on a TripleWide ExtenderShield X, the Open PSP kit is equipped for single or dual-player gaming.
The PSP lite comes with:
1 left-handed and 1 right-handed InputShield (2 total)
1 Arduino Duemilanove
1 TouchShield Slide
1 TripleWide ExtenderShield X
The PSP standard makes it portable and includes:
1 left-handed and 1 right-handed InputShield (2 total)
1 Arduino Duemilanove
1 TouchShield Slide
1 TripleWide ExtenderShield X
1 HiCap Lithium Backpack
The PSP extended gameplay doubles up the battery capacity for graphic-intensive applications:
1 left-handed and 1 right-handed InputShield (2 total)
1 Arduino Duemilanove
1 TouchShield Slide
1 TripleWide ExtenderShield X
2 HiCap Lithium Backpacks
GamePack
Were you ever the kind of person to hack up your own Playstation controllers and hook it up to something else? Well, those shards of plastic can be mighty dangerous, so I’ve done it for you. And hey, with the GamePack you’ll even have something you can hook it up to.
The GamePack comes with an Arduino, MeCap Backpack, TouchShield Stealth or Slide, ExtenderShield and an InputShield- everything you need to create your own open source, portable gaming device. Want to create a whole new gaming platform? Why not?
I’ve just added a new option for wide screen that includes the new TouchShield Slide. It’s brand new so I haven’t written a lot of code for it yet, but it’s just as easy to program as the TouchShield Stealth.
Components
1 Arduino Duemilanove
1 TouchShield Stealth or TouchShield Slide
1 DoubleWide OR DoubleTall ExtenderShield
1 MeCap Lithium Backpack
1 InputShield
Specs
TouchShield Stealth:
128×128 OLED Screen
Resistive Touch Screen
Holds 60 128×128 bitmap images
Compatible with Arduino Environment
Only Uses Arduino Pins: 3 and 4
Graphics Library Ready to Go
Draw Shapes, Pixels, Colors, Graphs, Buttons
1.50 inch diagonal
TouchShield Slide:
320×240 OLED Screen
Resistive Touch Screen
Holds 60 128×128 bitmap images
Compatible with Arduino Environment
Only Uses Arduino Pins: 3 and 4
Graphics Library Ready to Go
Draw Shapes, Pixels, Colors, Graphs, Buttons
2.83 inch diagonal
OpenBerry Pack
Just the other day the battery on my iPhone died, and naturally I thought… what a pain it is that I couldn’t just swap out a battery, switch the transceiver to XBee, power it via an Arduino, and be on my way!
The OpenBerry Pack is like the Open Source Hardware version of the iPhone, Blackberry, Verizon RAZR, Palm Pilot, and anything else that looks like it all wrapped into one. I suppose you could technically call it a “XBeeBerry” given the wireless protocol, but that’s a bit of a mouthful…
It’s a portable rapid prototyping system for making wireless gadgets… as proof of concepts, or just something to hack on, and it doesn’t come with a 5,000 year contract that costs $6,000 for an early termination. And the FAA won’t come knocking just because you’re hacking the airwaves with CDMA!
The Full kit comes with everything under the sun needed to make an Arduino XBee base station, and a self-contained XBee, ButtonShield, OLED touchscreen, Lithium powered gadget, while the simple kit only comes with 1 Arduino (in case you already have one), and the No Wireless is like the simple kit, but also doesn’t have any wireless cards (also, in case you already have some). Finally, the Dual Rapid Prototypes are if you’re really serious, and want a spare backup, or a second communicator – it comes with two full handsets, plus one base station (e.g. with 3 Arduinos, 3 XBee boards)!
Components
2 Arduino Duemilanoves
2 Arduino XBee Shields
1 TouchShield Slide
1 DoubleWide ExtenderShield
1 ButtonShield
1 MeCap Lithium BackPack
2 Mini Protoboards
Specs
TouchShield Slide:
320×240 OLED Screen
Resistive Touch Screen
Holds 60 128×128 bitmap images
Compatible with Arduino Environment
Only Uses Arduino Pins: 3 and 4
Graphics Library Ready to Go
Draw Shapes, Pixels, Colors, Graphs, Buttons
2.83 inch diagonal
Arduino:
ATmega168
14 i/o pins
6 PWM
6 Analog
16MHz
ButtonShield:
26 key buttons
2 Operating Modes, A & B
Pin-out like the InputShield
Fits squarely on top of Arduino
Controllable white LED in the middle of the button grid
DoubleWide ExtenderShield:
4.2in tall x 2.7in wide
108mm tall x 69mm wide
Arduino replicated mounting holes
Arduino replicated plated through-holes
Solderable dev area
MeCap Lithium Backpack:
Medium Capacity 1000mAh Lithium Ion Battery (15 Standby Arduino Hours)
Rechargeable via Arduino USB
Rechargeable via USB Tybe-B Mini Cable
Supplies regulated 5V and 3.3V
Monitor battery voltage status
WiNet Kit
John asked me about putting together a remote weather station in the bedroom, so he wouldn’t have to trek all the way downstairs to check the computer before getting dressed in the morning. Dominik mentioned a portable “shopping list” device that he could place right by the fridge. This way, he could click a button on the screen whenever he was out of milk or eggs, which would upload to a computer wirelessly. On the next trip to the grocery store, he can click “send list” on the screen, and the list gets sent to his phone as an email or text.
The list goes on, and personally, I think wireless, like blinking lights, just makes everything a litte more fun. So Mike and I put together a kit for wireless network kit, or the “WiNet Kit”. The WiNet kit comes with an Arduino and Xbee shield for the base station that’s connected to your computer, and a TouchShield Slide, DoubleTall ExtenderShield, MeCap Backpack , Arduino and Xbee for the remote station.
The WiNet Kit talks to the PC from up to 200 feet through walls and much further outdoors. It’s great for wireless sensor logging or remote user input.
Getting the Xbees to talk to each other can be tricky sometimes, but there’s no digging through datasheets and programming APIs to set this one up. Mike pre-programs each WiNet Kit so the two zigbee devices are already paired with each other. Simply Serial.print() all the wireless data you want!
Software
WiNet Kit Test Code ( WiNet1.gdt ) – Example code for the Antipasto Arduino IDE with all the serial setup to talk.
Contents
2 Arduino Duemilanove
2 Arduino XBee Shields
1 TouchShield Slide
1 Double Tall ExtenderShield
1 MeCap Lithium Backpack
Precut wires (2 red and 2 black)
Preprogrammed XBee Shields
Portable MegaPalm
I noticed a few weeks back that the new Palm Pre is about the size of an Arduino Mega. With a TouchShield Slide and the narrow ButtonPad on the Mega, it’s a DIY version of the Pre (except for the sliding screen)!
Hence the MegaPalm Pack, which is exactly what it sounds like…inspired by a Palm and built with a Mega.
The MegaPalm Lite includes an Arduino Mega, a TouchShield Slide, and ButtonPad, which fit neatly together in a slim form factor, sharing the entire space on the Mega.
To make it a truly portable device, the Portable MegaPalm edition includes a Mega HiCap Backpack as well.
Components
The MegaPalm Lite includes:
1 Arduino Mega
1 TouchShield Slide
1 ButtonPad
The Portable MegaPalm includes:
1 Arduino Mega
1 TouchShield Slide
1 ButtonPad
1 HiCap Mega Backpack
WiShield
Wires are so last summer! To the rescue is the WiShield, a plug-and-play Wi-Fi module for the Arduino from Asynclabs.
As the name suggests, the WiShield enables WiFi connectivity (802.11b) with an onboard PCB antenna from ZeroG Wireless. The board itself includes stack-through headers to allow access to unused pins and a 9-pin breakout header space for prototyping. The WiShield can create and join secured and unsecured networks, achieving up to 2 Mbps throughput speeds.
Tech Specs
9-pin breakout header (not populated) for use in breadboard applications
Uses SPI for host communication (max speed 25MHz)
All Arduino headers brought out for easy access
Easy access reset button on-board
On-board PCB antenna
Switchable interrupt pin usage between INT0 (port D, pin 2) and digital pin 8 (port B, pin 0)
Switchable LED on digital pin 9 (port B, pin 1).
Zero G ZG2100M
802.11b Wi-Fi certified
1Mbps and 2Mbps throughput speeds
Supports both infrastructure (BSS) and ad hoc (IBSS) wireless networks
Ability to create secured and unsecured networks: WEP (64-bit and 128-bit); WPA/WPA2 (TKIP and AES) PSK.
Dimensions
L x W x H: 1.9×2.1×0.5 in
Pin Usage.
SPI
Slave select (SS) : Arduino pin 10 (port B, pin 2)
Clock (SCK) : Arduino pin 13 (port B, pin 5)
Master in, slave out (MISO) : Arduino pin 12 (port B, pin 4)
Master out, slave in (MOSI) : Arduino pin 11 (port B, pin 3).
Interrupt (Uses only one of the following, depending on jumper setting)
INT0 : Arduino pin 2 (port D, pin 2)
DIG8 : Arduino pin 8 (port B, pin 0)
LED : Arduino pin 9 (port B, pin 1)
To regain use of this pin, remove the LED jumper cap
Voice Shield - Assembled
In the spirit of giving my gadgets more human, physical qualities, I already had “facial expressions” and “touch” with the Slide. Now I was looking for something that filled the “hear” and “talk” abilities.
Enter the Voice Shield™ (VS) from Spikenzie Labs. The Voice Shield™ (VS) is an analog audio shield for the Arduino or Arduino compatible boards that allows you to play audio sound bytes. It could be used in many different Arduino projects, such as; a talking clock, DIY Arduino talking GPS, robots, alarms, motion based sound effects etc …
There are two forms of audio output possible with the VS. One, is a simple on board audio AMP and speaker connectors with space for a 15mm speaker (a bigger speaker may be used but it won’t fit onto the VS PCB). It seems that the bigger the speaker the better the VS sounds. The second is a none amplified line out that is available though a 3.5mm stereo jack (though the VS is MONO), which you can connect to powered speakers or your sound system for really big sound! If the line out is plugged into the VS, the on board speaker and amp are automatically disconnected.
The board carries an ISD4003 chip from Winbond that can hold 4 minutes of audio at a sampling rate of 8kHz. The ISD chip also enables storing sound into distinct memory addresses that can be recalled in true robotic speech fashion.
The Voice Shield itself offers a set of stack-through pin headers, so additional shields can be mounted as well.
Tech Specs
3.5mm Audio In
3.5mm Audio Out
Slot for 15mm speaker (not included)
Storage for 4 minutes of audio @ 8 kHz
Uses digital pins 2,3,4 and 5
Ultimate Gadget Pack
Sometimes I go into a pizza restaurant on a Friday night, and it’s a little late in the evening, and I’m already hungry enough I can hear my stomach growl, so when they ask me, “what do you want on your pizza?” I just say:
“The Works.”
So I guess you could call this the Neapolitan pizza of Open Source hardware and Arduino modules. I’ve thrown together one big kit of pretty much anything I’ve ever made for the Arduino, all in one place, including some things I haven’t even really built anything with yet (as in they just came back from the shop and the solder was still warm when I snapped these pictures)!
There’s enough stuff in this pack to build 2 full gadgets, with a wide screen, or two player, or angled, or multi-colored, with enough power to run for over 24 hours straight. That’s pretty intense. If you think you can handle it, the Ultimate Gadget Pack’s the perfect kit!
Components
2 Arduino Duemilanove
1 TouchShield Stealth
1 TouchShield Slide, wide screen edition
1 MeCap Lithium Backpack
1 HiCap Lithium Backpack
1 Open Source Hardware, Volume 1
2 InputShields
2 Mini black Protoboards
1 DoubleWide ExtenderShield
1 Pair of Triangle Extenders
1 DoubleTall Red ExtenderShield
1 DoubleWide Red ExtenderShield
1 DoubleWide White ExtenderShield
1 6 inch USB type B Arduino programing cable
1 6 inch USB type B mini Backpack charging cable
Specs
Arduino:
ATmega168
14 i/o pins
6 PWM
6 Analog
16MHz
TouchShield Stealth:
128×128 OLED Screen
Resistive Touch Screen
Holds 60 128×128 bitmap images
Compatible with Arduino Environment
Only Uses Arduino Pins: 3 and 4
Graphics Library Ready to Go
Draw Shapes, Pixels, Colors, Graphs, Buttons
1.50 inch diagonal
TouchShield Slide:
320×240 OLED Screen
Resistive Touch Screen
Holds 60 128×128 bitmap images
Compatible with Arduino Environment
Only Uses Arduino Pins: 3 and 4
Graphics Library Ready to Go
Draw Shapes, Pixels, Colors, Graphs, Buttons
2.83 inch diagonal
MeCap Lithium Backpack:
Medium Capacity 1000mAh Lithium Ion Battery (14 Standby Arduino Hours)
Rechargeable via Arduino USB
Rechargeable via USB Tybe-B Mini Cable
Supplies regulated 5V and 3.3V
Monitor battery voltage status
HiCap Lithium Backpack:
High Capacity 2200mAh Lithium Ion Battery (29 Standby Arduino Hours)
Rechargeable via Arduino USB
Rechargeable via USB Tybe-B Mini Cable
Supplies regulated 5V and 3.3V
Monitor battery voltage status
DoubleTall ExtenderShield:
5.6in tall x 2.0in wide
142mm tall x 51mm wide
Arduino replicated mounting holes
Arduino replicated plated through-holes
Solderable dev area
DoubleWide ExtenderShield:
4.2in tall x 2.7in wide
108mm tall x 69mm wide
Arduino replicated mounting holes
Arduino replicated plated through-holes
Solderable dev area
Mini Protoboards
170 Tie Points
ABS Plastic
Recommended 20-29 AWG Solid-Core Wire
Phosphor Bronze Nickel Plated Spring Clip Contacts
LCD TEMPERATURE CONTROLLER
Learn how to connect a 2x16 LCD to a PC parallel port. First this kit will show you how to write keystrokes from the PC keyboard to display on the LCD. It will show you how to process this data (rotate the string left and right.) All the code is provided. Second, there is an on-board DS1620 to measure temperature. The temperature is displayed in F or C. Just press a button to display either. With the DS1620 you may set breakpoints to turn a thermostat on/off. We provide all the code to do this. Once the DS1620 is programmed it may be removed and placed in another device for temperature control. Many web references are given - DIY Kit 134.
from http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/meas/ck108new.jpg
Temperature Measure Control Kit
Use this temperature module to interface to a display or control system that accepts an analog voltage or current input. Applications : measure indoor and outdoor temperatures, control heating and/or cooling of rooms, equipment, etc... Monitor temperatures in processes, put a temperature readout on your website, check your pools temperature, ...
Specifications:
range: -20° ~ +70°C
output: 0 ~ 20mA current loop
output voltage compliance: 10V
accuracy: 2° full range
3-wire system: GND, +V and OUT
power supply: 12VDC for 0- 5V OUT / 15VDC for 0- 10V OUT
current consumption: 30mA max.
dimensions: 2.2" x 1.4" x 0.6" ( 55 x 35 x 15mm)
Temp Sensor can be extended up to 3 feet from the board using a 3 wire shielded cable (not included).
Has adjustment pot to calibrate the sensor
from http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/meas/vek8067.htm
Liquid Level Controller Kit
Forgotten to turn off the tap, leaking washing machines, water level dropping in your aquarium, rain tank or water tank suddenly dry or over flowing, water in your cellar, etc. Such situations are often the cause of trouble and financial burden. Prevention is key, so use this fluid detector. This multifunctional device is easy to use in a variety of applications : 1) LED control of set fluid level : LOW, MIDDLE, HIGH ; 2) Controller : the relay automatically switches a pump and/or valve to keep the fluid level between the LOW and HIGH marks ; 3) Alarm : if the sensor detects a level which is too high or too low (selectable), the relay will operate a bell or other alarm device.
Specifications:
Main Board: L: 4-1/8" W: 2-3/8" H: 3/4"
Level Board: L: 4-1/8" W: 1" H: 1/16"
Power Supply: 12 - 14VAC (min 300mA) or
16 - 18VDC (min 100mA)
Relay Contact Ratings: 28VDC@10A, 250VAC@10A, 120VAC@15A
Relay has a Normally Open and Normally Closed Contact
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/meas/vek2639.htm
Four Channel Temperature Logger Kit
PC controlled 4 channel temperature meter (either deg C or F) using the serial port, a PIC12C509 and 4 x DS1820 (temp sensors). No external power required. Each DS1820 may be located over 200 meters away from the motherboard and PC. This is an ideal use for old 386 and 486 computers: continuous temperature data logging. Users will have to massage the input data stream to their purpose. It may be dumped into an Excel spreadsheet, or they can write BASIC programs using the INPUT command to grab the readings.
Specifications:
L: 1-1/2" W: 1-1/2" H: 3/4"
Power Supply - Powered by computer serial port
Temp Sensor - Dallas DS18S20
Jumper Selectable for Celsius or Fahrenheit
Accuracy - +/- 0.5 C
Sensors can be 200 Meters away
Only includes one sensor
Link to software included with kit documentation.
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/meas/ck110.htm
LCD Temperature Meter Kit
This electronic kit is a temperature meter that uses a Harris 7106 IC as the heart of a low cost, accurate temperature meter. LCD 3-1/2 digit readout. All of the active circuits are in this one, versatile chip. In addition to temperature functions, the board includes an area for building your own volt-meter, amp-meter, resistance or extended range temperature meter. Takes the mystery out of how multi-meters work. Includes all parts for temperature meter and case - DIY Kit 2.
Specifications:
L: 2-3/8" W: 4" H: 1-1/2"
Instructions show calibration for 0 - 100 degrees Celsius.
Minor modifications make it possible to measure any temp range.
9 Volt battery operation.
(or Use this Power Supply instead of a Battery)
Includes enclosure.
Sensor has 6 inch distance from meter
http://www.electronickits.com/kit/complete/meas/ck101.htm
pocketTEMPTM is an affordable hand-held, battery operated sensor that safely and accurately measures temperature using non-contact infrared technology. No other type of thermometer can measure a reptile's body temperature more accurately or easily, allowing the basking area and heat gradient of an enclosure to be adjusted for optimal conditions. This is especially important when using infrared heat sources.
Just aim and push the button. Instantly gives an accurate temperature reading for the object in question. Perfect for determining the temperature of eggs during incubation, reptile body temperature, enclosure temperatures for proper thermo-regulation, etc. Non-invasive and simple to use.
http://www.pro-products.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=59&Itemid=59
Mini Portable Arduino Laptop
I finally figured out how to decode PS/2 keyboard signals through the Arduino, and so I made a little device that read the values of a keyboard, and then piped them back up through the TouchShield, to display text. It’s kind of like having a small little Arduino-powered palm top or laptop
Parts for Mini Portable Arduino Laptop:
Arduino Duemilanove
TouchShield Stealth
Lithium Backpack
Gadget Pack
The first step was putting together the gadget, which meant plugging an Arduino underneath an ExtenderShield, with a Lithium Backpack for power (the keyboard needs to be powered too), and a TouchShield on top. In order to power the device, I connected a wire from the Lithium Backpack’s 5V to the TouchShield’s 5 pin, and the Backpack’s GND to the TouchShield’s G pin.
Then, I opened up the end of a PS/2 extension cable, and soldered 4 wires to ground, +5V, data, and signal. I found the reference over at this site really helpful (thanks!).
Then I plugged the ground and +5V wires into free headers on the right side of the ExtenderShield, labeled G and 5V"
full info here http://www.liquidware.com/projects/25/Mini+Portable+Arduino+Laptop
