At My Wits' End.

[Roadblock]

I had the same happen, clones were fine they they went all weird twisting cupping growth .

I sprayed them with Vertimec as I have spider mites , they were fine until then and a week later they all spastic , Vertimec is Abamectin same as Avid .

Ive never had a problem before with Abamectin only this strain I have is super sensitive to everything I do , anyway Ive trashed them and going back to my old strain of White Rhino.

 

[tilopa]

Hi could it be light stress from the led ?

This is another variable that seems problematic to me. Clearly these lights require fiddling with more than my previous lights. Meaning they can be too intense very easily. I've raised them quite a bit and the plants are starting to pray again.

 

[Loc Dog]

I am getting ready to buy a PAR meter, which is almost $400, to adjust lights properly. Could pay for itself in electric savings. Cheap LUX meters are not good enough to adjust LED's.

 

[Roadblock]

I am getting ready to buy a PAR meter, which is almost $400, to adjust lights properly. Could pay for itself in electric savings. Cheap LUX meters are not good enough to adjust LED's.

You can wing it with lux meters as they will still show the differences of one place to another we dont really need to know the par just the fall off in a rough sort of way . Between that and what the plants themselves are telling us you can set up lights with a lux meter.

 

[Loc Dog]

You can wing it with lux meters as they will still show the differences of one place to another we dont really need to know the par just the fall off in a rough sort of way . Between that and what the plants themselves are telling us you can set up lights with a lux meter.

When I got LED's about 5 years ago, ruined an entire crop from lights being to close. Would have been 1200 grams trimmed and cured if done right. Wound up with crap from foxtailing. Just getting back into it due to personal reasons, not being able to grow for 4 years. Figure a $300 meter beats losing $12K. Already think this first grow is going to be far from optimum. Think leaves are too lite colored, but not sure if it is just how they look under strong light. Using Vero 29's which are intense.

I have always had problems since not artisitic, and probably do not see colors as well as others. I absolutely suck at being able to look at plants and know what is going wrong. I grow a clone only strain, and just follow what others say to do, since no differentiation from phenotypes.

Have seen some calculators, but not sure how those lights fit into there categories. Would be nice to just rent a PAR meter for a day.

Also somewhat confused on light intensity readings since buds will stick up a foot from SCROG. Is the max number to be read at tips or middle. Also saw videos by same person, in one saying 3000 umols and the other saying 2000 umols.

 

[tilopa]

You can wing it with lux meters as they will still show the differences of one place to another we dont really need to know the par just the fall off in a rough sort of way . Between that and what the plants themselves are telling us you can set up lights with a lux meter.

The lux meter is not telling you the intensity that matters to the plants. It tells you the light intensity. However if you have an intense amount of radiation from the blue spectrum the lux will read this and a relatively low value. This could end up being too intense for young plants. I'm using a conversion that someone created specifically for a 4k light. But it does not account for the for the CRI and specific spectrum your light is emitting so it can be fairly off. I just know that my plants respond to my light very differently than to my previous Ceramic Metal Halide. If I up the intensity by just a few hundred lux they will start to wilt.

I'm not giving up on LEDs but I realize that they need to be dialed-in, which is another variable I don't really want right now.

 

[Roadblock]

The lux meter is not telling you the intensity that matters to the plants. It tells you the light intensity. However if you have an intense amount of radiation from the blue spectrum the lux will read this and a relatively low value. This could end up being too intense for young plants. I'm using a conversion that someone created specifically for a 4k light. But it does not account for the for the CRI and specific spectrum your light is emitting so it can be fairly off. I just know that my plants respond to my light very differently than to my previous Ceramic Metal Halide. If I up the intensity by just a few hundred lux they will start to wilt.

I'm not giving up on LEDs but I realize that they need to be dialed-in, which is another variable I don't really want right now.

I havent dealt with Leds , what Im trying to say is the lux meter will tell you the differences from one place to another on its own scale, not in par just in fall off in light from the brightest to the dullest, kinda like the PPM in your tank is constant but say the 500 scale is different than in the 700 scale , its just referenced differently given different final numbers but the tank PPM is constant.

Id love a Par meter but dont want to pay that money when I can wing it and the plants them selves tell me more than the meter as not all plants are equal in how much light they can take.

 

[Vash]

I'd take a reading of the EC in that coco. Depending upon how long those plants have been in that medium with a constant feeding of 1.5, there's going to be a salt buildup there, and that's going to cause issues.

 

[Virgin1]

Hi guys , there is an online converter that u can use to convert ur lux reading to par but ideally u need a par meter to grow with led it’s so easy to fry them or end up with very unhealthy looking plants if you have a read into dli (daily light integral ) they can only take in a certain amount of light in a 24h period so in veg u have to have the light on a lot lower power so u don’t overload them I think without co2 it’s around 41 dli which works out around 700-1000 ppfd in flower , early veg is around 200 ppfd ,and late veg around 400 ppfd and u have to run higher temps to compensate for the lack of heat u get from the led which effects ur leaf temps and transpiration - nute uptake ,