anyone use "flir mask"?

[944s2]

just wanted to ask if anyone has or is using flir mask?,,,,
because of light leaks due to a huge window I have invested in a few rolls of flir mask but at £11 a meter its worked out quite expensive but I have been informed that its the best blackout,,heat reduction,,reflective etc that you can get presently,,made in france of glass fibre,,98% reflective I believe plus total blackout and leo can come next to your window with there little flir devices and wont see or pick up fuck all,,,
if this don't work although I am highly confident it will then it will leave me no choice but to have a plywood false window with holes for air con,,,exhaust,,,and fresh air intake but I really don't want to do that if poss,,
any experience or opinions on flir mask greatly appreciated,,,,,,cheers s2

 

[944s2]

bump

 

[Harry Gypsna]

I know there is a military product used to cover up the heat from engines and warm bodies, but it is thick blankets. Most of these sheetings have turned out to be pap like that "anti-detection-foil" 10 years ago. The heat has to go somewhere and no sheeting can stop the camera seeing that flume of hot air coming out of your window/vent.

I vent through my bathroom. Once I go aircooled again, I'll be venting non-smelly lamp air into my house and turning the heating off. I'm in the process of dropping some flat duct down the chimney now. Fuck you, British Gas.

 

[queequeg152]

what is this product exactly?

it is not hard to defeat FLIR imaging... if you simply erect an IR opaque tent over your home you have defeated flir( provided you are not heating the tent above ambient)

you cannot defeat a flir system with any foil product what so ever. these are basically radiant barriers and have nothing to do with FLIR what so ever.

radiant barriers are an entirely different story. ive discussed it at length elswehere and dont care to do so again. i suggest you search my name and radiant barrier if you are interested in hearing what i have to say on the subject.

 

[944s2]

what is this product exactly?

it is not hard to defeat FLIR imaging... if you simply erect an IR opaque tent over your home you have defeated flir( provided you are not heating the tent above ambient)

you cannot defeat a flir system with any foil product what so ever. these are basically radiant barriers and have nothing to do with FLIR what so ever.

radiant barriers are an entirely different story. ive discussed it at length elswehere and dont care to do so again. i suggest you search my name and radiant barrier if you are interested in hearing what i have to say on the subject.

oh dear me!
you have explained something before and you "don't care to do so again" ,,
well that's fine but please take your pissy and self-righteous attitude out of my thread.....
I suggest you check out flir mask .com and you can argue how correct YOU are to your hearts content,,,,
have you used it? no and that's all that needs to be said,,,,

i repeat again that flir mask is made from glass fibre not foil like anti-detection/c2 sheeting!!,,,944s2

 

[Harry Gypsna]

Looking at their website, it says it is based on a military application.
If it does what it says it does, then it will stop the heat getting into your brick walls and glowing up, but so would insulation like Kingspan or even polystyrene. The FLIR doesn't see through walls, it just sees the heat that they contain. How many lights are you running, what ventilation, are you in tents?

 

[queequeg152]

oh dear me!
you have explained something before and you "don't care to do so again" ,,
well that's fine but please take your pissy and self-righteous attitude out of my thread.....
I suggest you check out flir mask .com and you can argue how correct YOU are to your hearts content,,,,
have you used it? no and that's all that needs to be said,,,,

i repeat again that flir mask is made from glass fibre not foil like anti-detection/c2 sheeting!!,,,944s2

i did check out flir masks website, and its marketing bullshit. no patents i can research, no description of the materials used, just alot of promises and very little evidence.

it looks to me like another radiant barrier bullshit product.

i dont have to buy those dick pills on tv to know that they will not grow my hog. your last point is absurd.

 

[944s2]

Looking at their website, it says it is based on a military application.
If it does what it says it does, then it will stop the heat getting into your brick walls and glowing up, but so would insulation like Kingspan or even polystyrene. The FLIR doesn't see through walls, it just sees the heat that they contain. How many lights are you running, what ventilation, are you in tents?

hey harry ,,good to hear from you buddy,,,
my main purpose for using f/mask is for total blackout,,not too concerned about heat etc and want to avoid putting a false plywood window in,,,thanks for popping by harry,,,,s2

 

[r2k]

If you use Flir mask or other similar products, where does the heat go? It must be extracted or the temperature of your oven goes up. Energy out of the building must equal energy into the building or temperature will move.

I am probably naive, but I always thought FLIR only sees hot surfaces, not hot gases (assuming you don't have gases so hot they ionize) It can see a hot surface of 120 degrees F, but can FLIR see a 120 degree plume of air from an exhaust?

-r2k

 

[queequeg152]

depends on the gas. but hot 120 air will not be seen directly.

room temp air does not have an emissivity coefficient what so ever far as i know...

if it did it would reflect a shit load of heat away from the planet. we are lucky air is so transparent to IR.

you are correct about heating of surfaces btw.

one has to either aggressively air seal and insulate, or i suppose... agressivly ventilate or air condition.

shiny surfaces have very low emissivites, however heat still moves through them provided they are not in a vacuum... hot air simply heats the foils, and the foils then heat adjacent air layers or building materials.

radiant barriers have almost zero to do with flir shit... they are almost never justified in the context of a retrofit install outside of very hot climates or in some other situations with less than ideal materials that emit lots of IR inside a wall assmebly(metal skinned vheicles etc.)

 

[Granger2]

Check this out.
http://www.icc-es.org/Reports/pdf_files/load_file.cfm?file_type=pdf&file_name=ESR-2350.pdf see page 3

This is with only 1 inch of air space, not the 2 3/4" which Prodex recommends. queequeg, I'm not trying to re-open this debate, even though you never addressed this info in the other thread. People can follow this link and make their own decision. Putting Prodex over the window opening will block light completely if that's what the OP's trying to accomplish. So will many other things, such as cheaper, easily available Reflectix. This is easily installed and taken down without damaging the wall. -granger

 

[queequeg152]

that link is broken.

that or i just dont know what a cfg file is?

 

[queequeg152]

what other thread are you talking about btw? i couldnt find it.

 

[944s2]

If you use Flir mask or other similar products, where does the heat go? It must be extracted or the temperature of your oven goes up. Energy out of the building must equal energy into the building or temperature will move.

I am probably naive, but I always thought FLIR only sees hot surfaces, not hot gases (assuming you don't have gases so hot they ionize) It can see a hot surface of 120 degrees F, but can FLIR see a 120 degree plume of air from an exhaust?

-r2k

hey r2k,,,,
thanks for your input and yes I need it for total blackout,,i have a huge ceiling to floor window,,,usual blackout just didn't do it,,, this flir mask was bought solely for blackout and no other reason as I live in the middle of a huge forest but didn't want to start drilling into walls etc to make a false plywood window,,,,
so hoping this will work,,its thick as hell but light,,,,
thanks to everyone for there input in this thread,,,,all opinions more then welcome,,good or bad,,,,
peace and regards s2

 

[944s2]

Check this out.
http://www.icc-es.org/Reports/pdf_files/load_file.cfm?file_type=pdf&file_name=ESR-2350.pdf see page 3

This is with only 1 inch of air space, not the 2 3/4" which Prodex recommends. queequeg, I'm not trying to re-open this debate, even though you never addressed this info in the other thread. People can follow this link and make their own decision. Putting Prodex over the window opening will block light completely if that's what the OP's trying to accomplish. So will many other things, such as cheaper, easily available Reflectix. This is easily installed and taken down without damaging the wall. -granger

thanks grainger,,,,,
I am awful at any kind of handywork and I am pretty sure there are lots of other great blackout covering available,,,
I needed something that would work and could be hung with super strong foil tape [£26 for a 50mtr roll],,,,
long standing shop I use and have been using for over 12 years told me that this would deal with any light leaks and after installing today they were spot on,,,total blackout is what I needed and total blackout is what I got,,happy days,,,,,thanks again grainger,,,s2

 

[Harry Gypsna]

Well, if it does what you need, that's the main thing.
You could have probably done the same thing with 2 layers of white/black/white or a layer of W/B/W and a layer of double bubble and saved some brass, but as long as you're getting the job done eh.

 

[queequeg152]

Check this out.
http://www.icc-es.org/Reports/pdf_files/load_file.cfm?file_type=pdf&file_name=ESR-2350.pdf see page 3

i get it now... i just had to rename the .cfg file to .pdf.

yea, this is a metal roof with with like a 4" air gap behind and 1" air gap to the roof material. this is a HORIZONTAL TEST BED... very innacurate and cannot be applied to wall assemblied what so ever.

they achieved between r18 and r21 for this assembly... thats probably a gain of like r3 to r4 it looks like... with the addition of the foil over just using an air barrier. air itself is the primary insulator responsible for the gains over the r13 batts. the reflective properties of these foils are actually the smaller player in the rvalues.

this r value will not remain constant as the barrier accumulates dust. this r value will only apply during very hot months with lots of sunlight heating the metal.

this r value will not apply to most other roofing materials such as tar shingles and mineral tiles etc. this r value will not apply during winter months what so ever.

this building asembly could have EASILY been built to r40+ with real insulation by just insulating the 5.5" gap they left to accommodate the air space for the prodex.

they would have had better results by replacing the prodex with a half inch layer of xps foam boards... they cost the same per sq.ft.

 

[queequeg152]

hey r2k,,,,
thanks for your input and yes I need it for total blackout,,i have a huge ceiling to floor window,,,usual blackout just didn't do it,,, this flir mask was bought solely for blackout and no other reason as I live in the middle of a huge forest but didn't want to start drilling into walls etc to make a false plywood window,,,,
so hoping this will work,,its thick as hell but light,,,,
thanks to everyone for there input in this thread,,,,all opinions more then welcome,,good or bad,,,,
peace and regards s2

if you have access to rockwool insulation, id reccomend that+ an air barrier. you would basically just wedge it into the window recess snugly and tape the vapor barrier over it. you could even crack the window open a sliver to exchange air some... avoiding potential condensation issues and further cooling the glass.

 

[944s2]

if you have access to rockwool insulation, id reccomend that+ an air barrier. you would basically just wedge it into the window recess snugly and tape the vapor barrier over it. you could even crack the window open a sliver to exchange air some... avoiding potential condensation issues and further cooling the glass.

thanks queequeg,,
I have great passive intake through the same window that I duct my moby air con unit out of but thanks for the advice,,,,s2

 

[944s2]

Well, if it does what you need, that's the main thing.
You could have probably done the same thing with 2 layers of white/black/white or a layer of W/B/W and a layer of double bubble and saved some brass, but as long as you're getting the job done eh.

hey h,,,
mate I had three layers of the 3 layer black and white and I was still having leaks plus added adt sheeting and bloody black bin liners
to finally make it light proof,,such a huge window harry and I [12 ft long ta 13ft high roughly ]
and I made the mistake of not cutting the b+w into sections and hung it like a large curtain so the weight was constantly pulling it down plus I had just gone into bloom so had to make do with patching it up,,
hope that makes it a bit clearer old mate,,,,
peace and regards s2,,,,,,,
havent heard that tricky track yet just getting through his latest album,,s2