Any Fungicide Suggestions For Root Rot in Hydroponics?

[Douglas.Curtis]

I've used high micron furnace filters for 15+ years, they're $20'ish to replace. A simple plenum can be built from thin wood. You can build a HEPA filter for a 12" fan for about $60 or less.

Removing/significantly-reducing the spore load can help quite a bit, especially after harvest during drying time. The fewer spores on your hanging flowers, the less chance of germination and outbreak.

 

[f-e]

Agent Green. Oxysporum 'Weaponised' by the U.S for the war against drugs.

Don't panic. It's 20 year old news.

Just stick one in some compost and see if it looks better. A bag of peat based from some Walmart like place will do for a quick test.

 

[Rabbi]

I've used high micron furnace filters for 15+ years, they're $20'ish to replace. A simple plenum can be built from thin wood. You can build a HEPA filter for a 12" fan for about $60 or less.

Removing/significantly-reducing the spore load can help quite a bit, especially after harvest during drying time. The fewer spores on your hanging flowers, the less chance of germination and outbreak.

K i'll try doing the same. I have an air-handler out there that takes furnace filters. Thanks.

 

[Rabbi]

Agent Green. Oxysporum 'Weaponised' by the U.S for the war against drugs.

Don't panic. It's 20 year old news.

Just stick one in some compost and see if it looks better. A bag of peat based from some Walmart like place will do for a quick test.

Alright I will do that actually. That is a good idea tbh.

 

[troutman]

Fungi and bacteria are usually antagonists. Lack of one, usually causes a larger population
in the other. So I like to add a bacterial based product to counteract fungi excesses.

A healthy forest soil has both in a balance.

I use Great White for healthy soils.

 

[Rabbi]

You're quite welcome.

Pre-Stop is the better item, and is approved by the feds, but each state runs their own certification program for local distribution (in Alaska it's the Department of Environmental Conservation who 'sells' the certification to permit commercial distribution of the stuff).

I think it's Viva Grow who sells it (Pre-Stop) in a variety of volumes/weights. And I've found them to be fair and prompt, as well as (back then) offering free shipping.


You can find Viva Grow on-line.

I, however, was not in an approved state for distribution, so contacted an old acquaintance in a state that WAS approved, and had it shipped to him, after which he shipped it to me.

When I spoke with Alaska DEC about this, tipping my hand to find out where I stood with the whole ordeal, they informed me that as long as it wasn't being used commercially, and only on my own property, then it was fine to have my acquaintance in Pennsylvania send the stuff to me.

It's a bio-fungicide, as stated earlier. If I had a complaint with Pre-Stop, I'd add that, while it's very effective, and has even been compared to some chemical fungicides, in terms of effectiveness, the amount mixed per gallon of H2O is substantially greater than with Actinovate or Myco-Stop.

Also, nearly any bio-fungicide I've used has a shelf life, and is best stored in a refrigerator.

Most places selling Pre-Stop, by the way, will have a list of those states approved for commercial distribution. If your state's not on that list, and you know someone in a state that -is- on that list of approved states, then you still can probably gain access; just an extra shipping charge for what is a fairly thin (but over-sized otherwise) packet.

I went for the 100 gram packet of Per-Stop.

The Myco-Stop is nearly as good, and uses a lot less in the ratio of Myco-Stop to H2O in dilution.

Best of luck.

K finally found some Prestop in Canada. Gonna give it a try. Now I have to figure out a mixing ratio.

I'm still open to other suggestions though if anybody has some they think may help.

 

[Rabbi]

has anyone here ever heard of or tried "Asperello T34 Biocontrol"
(Trichoderma asperellum strain T34)?

Sounds interesting.

https://www.plantproducts.com/ca/images/Asperello_T34_Biocontrol_PCP30229_label_2018-01-26.pdf

Edit: Nevermind actually. "ASPERELLO T34 Biocontrol should not be applied in a tank mix with other products (pesticides or
liquid fertilizers)". Must fuck with the nutrients or something. Or vice versa.

 

[Rabbi]

You're quite welcome.

Pre-Stop is the better item, and is approved by the feds, but each state runs their own certification program for local distribution (in Alaska it's the Department of Environmental Conservation who 'sells' the certification to permit commercial distribution of the stuff).

I think it's Viva Grow who sells it (Pre-Stop) in a variety of volumes/weights. And I've found them to be fair and prompt, as well as (back then) offering free shipping.


You can find Viva Grow on-line.

I, however, was not in an approved state for distribution, so contacted an old acquaintance in a state that WAS approved, and had it shipped to him, after which he shipped it to me.

When I spoke with Alaska DEC about this, tipping my hand to find out where I stood with the whole ordeal, they informed me that as long as it wasn't being used commercially, and only on my own property, then it was fine to have my acquaintance in Pennsylvania send the stuff to me.

It's a bio-fungicide, as stated earlier. If I had a complaint with Pre-Stop, I'd add that, while it's very effective, and has even been compared to some chemical fungicides, in terms of effectiveness, the amount mixed per gallon of H2O is substantially greater than with Actinovate or Myco-Stop.

Also, nearly any bio-fungicide I've used has a shelf life, and is best stored in a refrigerator.

Most places selling Pre-Stop, by the way, will have a list of those states approved for commercial distribution. If your state's not on that list, and you know someone in a state that -is- on that list of approved states, then you still can probably gain access; just an extra shipping charge for what is a fairly thin (but over-sized otherwise) packet.

I went for the 100 gram packet of Per-Stop.

The Myco-Stop is nearly as good, and uses a lot less in the ratio of Myco-Stop to H2O in dilution.

Best of luck.

Hey Moose did you spray your plants with the Prestop as well or just soil drench?

My Prestop arrived today. Looking forward to trying it out.

 

[moose eater]

Hey Moose did you spray your plants with the Prestop as well or just soil drench?

My Prestop arrived today. Looking forward to trying it out.

I used mine as a drench, but unless the instructions say not to, if you got it, flaunt it...

Out of curiosity, what are they charging for a 100 gram packet of it in Canada?

(*Though I'm guessing that if you're treating a whole reservoir, you may have gone larger than the 100 gram packet).

Also, in mixing, I used my standard water decanting containers; used rinsed milk jugs, of which I have a huge collection. Leave sufficient room at the top of what ever containers you have to agitate adequately for proper mixing, or you may get some 'clumping,' which wastes your investment, AND fails to distribute the organisms thoroughly in your H2O.

Let me know what you found re. applicability to hydro, and how it goes for you.. The stuff has good reviews for its prescribed method of application.

 

[Rabbi]

I used mine as a drench, but unless the instructions say not to, if you got it, flaunt it...

Out of curiosity, what are they charging for a 100 gram packet of it in Canada?

(*Though I'm guessing that if you're treating a whole reservoir, you may have gone larger than the 100 gram packet).

Also, in mixing, I used my standard water decanting containers; used rinsed milk jugs, of which I have a huge collection. Leave sufficient room at the top of what ever containers you have to agitate adequately for proper mixing, or you may get some 'clumping,' which wastes your investment, AND fails to distribute the organisms thoroughly in your H2O.

Let me know what you found re. applicability to hydro, and how it goes for you.. The stuff has good reviews for its prescribed method of application.

Ok sounds good. The instructions do list mixing ratios for foilar spray. I will make sure I pre-mix it well before adding to the reservoir.

I bought a 1kg bag. Total cost after everything was $113.35(cdn) and arrived the day after I ordered it.

If it works out I might try the concentrated version(prestop wg) next time. 10x the strength of the prestop wp. $520 for a 1kg bag of that stuff. That's actually pretty reasonable considering how long that would last a guy. It even has hydro mixing ratios listed with it. But gotta see how well it works first though.

 

[moose eater]

Re. shelf life, remember you're dealing with a dried living organism, and from what I've understood, refrigeration will extend its viability, but it is time limited.

I've looked through the stuff in my shop as I come and go daily, and have noted that I have partial pouches of both Myco-Stop AND Pre-Stop down there, admitting that I've basically pissed away that money, by not placing back in cold storage. (*Though I still have unopened Myco-Stop in the refrigerator, too).

Your pricing doesn't sound too bad for the 1000 gram. I'm thinking (without getting down a calculator) that after your shipping and everything, you paid less than $90 USD.

The bulky nature of the stuff, in comparison to the Myco-Stop, as an example, necessitates mixing that much more thoroughly, and the potential for that much worse 'clumping.' With that in mind, and never having used it in foliar application, I'd watch for any clogging of the tube in your sprayer. When I've gotten to hard to reach spots in my shop with the bleach and Borax mix for killing spores on walls, ceiling, etc., the sprayer's time in use before needing cleaned goes down, needing unclogged more frequently, due to the Borax often remaining to some degree in a granular state. but I use a GOOD amount of Borax when I'm doing that, too, so whether it's a product of maximum absorption having been reached in the solution, I can't say for sure at this time..

As stated, and as you may have found in your research, initial reviews and studies stated the Pre-Stop was on par with many or most chemical-based fungicides, in terms of effectiveness.

Good luck.

Also, and I don't know how you might incorporate this info into a hydro set-up, but it was shared with me re. a comprehensive canna-related nute chart (primary, secondary and micro nutes, inclusive), but they stated that the optimal copper content in my mix should be 12 ppm, but that over 10ppm acts as a good barrier to fungal issues. So I dialed up my copper content a touch to meet that level.

Bearing in mind that I don't use the Borax cleaning stuff in anything directly in contact with plants, unless it's non-porous, and getting rinsed THOROUGHLY, and, as you're likely already aware, Copper is a caustic element/mineral if used in excess; the basis for many effective wood preservatives over the years.

 

[Rabbi]

I already have mine in the fridge and tossed one of my old mini fridges out in the shop as well. Also I plan on vacuum sealing it after each time I use it. Hopefully that should help it last.

I will be watching closely for clogs. I imagine the Prestop WG is probably much better in that regard. But I will make sure I mix the shit out it first before adding to my reservoirs.

The mixing ratio I got from the place I purchased it from said 25g/50l for hydro, so I guess I'll start there and see what happens.

I have been thoroughly cleaning everything with bleach, however this alone does not stop it from coming back unfortunately. I'm sure it's an environmental issue out here. Hopefully the Prestop helps.

 

[moose eater]

I'd have to go check my packaging, but the 25 grams to 50 liters 'sounds' less than I remember, but my memory isn't as good as it once was, either. Still pretty good, but a few more errors than once upon a time.

And it may be the difference between foliar, hydro, and soilless/soil drench applications, too

Otherwise, best of luck.

I had a helluva' battle going with root aphids in my younger son's grapefruit tree he'd had in the living room for years, sprouted from a seed he'd plucked from a Texas pink grapefruit he'd eaten maybe 5-6 years ago. (*I know, grapefruit trees in Alaska, right??!! ;^>) ).

I swear the little bastages were growing immunities and thickening their waxy outer shells to everything and anything I threw at them, including when I finally violated my own line in the sand, and tossed some chemical assaults their way...

The tree is now frozen on the front porch; evicted.. Too much risk having it in the house, even with numerous barriers between the grapefruit's location, and my other plants. Maybe I'll decorate it for Christmas out on the porch if it's still out there in a couple months. Probably find out the little fellers can't stand LED Christmas lights...

Point being that if there's an environmental 'in' for pests, fungus, etc., and the medium or atmosphere are vulnerable, then the battles may be many, and never guarantee a win in the war. Fungal issues can be a bear, once they're established.

Again, good luck.

 

[Rabbi]

Point being that if there's an environmental 'in' for pests, fungus, etc., and the medium or atmosphere are vulnerable, then the battles may be many, and never guarantee a win in the war. Fungal issues can be a bear, once they're established.

Again, good luck.

Ya I've learnt that one myself already. I'm just hoping that their's something out there that will work. Feel like I gotta try as much as I can first before I admit defeat and move. I really like it out here...of course except for one thing.

 

[moose eater]

Yeah, whether culling long-time mothers to make room for others, or getting rid of a diseased plant(s) I've become attached to, I often feel as though I'm having to get rid of a puppy that's grown attached to me, and me to it. Seriously.

But then most of my mothers have been here for.... a long time, but for 1.

Good luck. I'm curious to read what your results are.

 

[Rabbi]

Yeah, whether culling long-time mothers to make room for others, or getting rid of a diseased plant(s) I've become attached to, I often feel as though I'm having to get rid of a puppy that's grown attached to me, and me to it. Seriously.

But then most of my mothers have been here for.... a long time, but for 1.

Good luck. I'm curious to read what your results are.

Ya I've had to toss out many mothers that I really didn't want to. Now I'm trying to not get attached. Figure out a solution first and then start the re-build.

 

[moose eater]

I haven't checked my packaging; out of energy, and basically a slug the last while. Thoughts largely consumed with other issues.

If your packaging (or credible related site) says that's the ratio, then I'd believe them. It just seemed less than I remembered. Adding, again, that I used Pre-Stop in a drench application for soilless mix, not hydro or foliar spray, so it may well be that we're talking apples and oranges.

Now that I've potentially stuck my foot in my mouth, or laid my neck bare for being incorrect (again....) ;^>), I'd best go check my Pre-Stop packaging, and see what it says....

Back in a moment or three....

 

[palmeezy]

the main thing that i take from this post is, assuming Rabbi didn't somehow import his fusarium to the new spot, that it came WITH this place. i chased what i thought were water quality issues for years before realizing i had hop latent, and likely some other canna-specific spores floating around. i sprayed pesticides for mites i likely didn't have when it was actually fungal, or maybe bacterial issues, that were also wreaking havoc.

maybe others will disagree but the best 'fix' for this is switching to bulk salts and running some form of drain to waste. i'm working my way towards that now.

i very recently had a plant wilt/droop (all tops are like arches) for no apparent reason. the roots could barely be broken apart by hand. there was no visible issues with the crown, no brown streaks or dead spots in the stem. no structural issues with the plants. but they were slower than they should've been and exhibited light green growth and other symptoms that long-time sufferers have reported to have had.


sulfur burner, heat treatments, aspirin, regalia

the problem is you will be harboring latent issues if you are growing from clones

 

[moose eater]

OK.. aside from evidence that I'm a classic hoarder, as evidenced by the expiration date on the package of 'November 2018' (meaning this stuff died long ago, in all likelihood), there are several areas re. uses.

The print is small, so I'm using an illuminated 20X magnifying lens. One area of the label on the back side of the packaging lists a whole series of plants that folks should NOT use Pre-Stop as a foliar spray on.

For those specific (groups of) plants, it states to use it as drench in soil/soilless mix -only-.

So apparently there are food crops that either don't react well to it if leaf or upper plant contact, or for which perhaps retention of the stuff isn't healthy.

With Canada being legal, if you feel comfortable, I'd recommend a call re. that set of questions alone, unless you already have done so.

I see nothing n this (outdated) 100 gram packet that speaks in re. to hydroponics. The newer product may allow for that, or someone affiliated with the product's manufacturing (or other research persons) may have determined that it's OK, but the package I have doesn't appear to address hydro use.

Re. ratio in dilution, they refer to a suspension solution, and give those ratios in % concentration of solution, based on 3.5 oz. of Pre-Stop (3.5 oz. being close to the equivalent of the 100 gram packet).

These ratios are for soil drench, and different concentrations, presumably based on degree of infection, versus prophylactic use... That's my take on it anyway. Correction versus prevention.

For a 0.1% solution, they recommend 3.5 oz/100 grams to 100 liters of H2O.

For a 0.5% solution, they recommend 3.5 oz/100 grams to 20 liters of H2O.

For a 1.0% solution, they recommend 3.5 oz/100 grams to 10 liters of H2O.

For a 2.5% solution (the equivalent of nuclear war on what ever fungus you're battling, I presume) they recommend 3.5 oz/100 grams to 4 liters of H2O

They also 'round out' the liters into U.S. gallons, with less precision than when I buy fuel in the Yukon Territory, as I know that 3.78 liters is technically equal to 1 US gallon, and their chart isn't QUITE accurate (unless they're talking Imperial Gallons, in which case I'm still not convinced they're accurate), so I omitted that conversion, both because you're apparently in Canada, thus functioning on a metric base anyway, and the original manufacturer of the Pre-Stop, I believe, was based in Belgium (??), which would also have them working in a metric system.

So there you have it.

I'd take their concentrations, and bare in mind during your contemplation, that the different ratios may compensate for infection versus prophylactic, and different plants' sensitivity to the product.

 

[moose eater]

the main thing that i take from this post is, assuming Rabbi didn't somehow import his fusarium to the new spot, that it came WITH this place. i chased what i thought were water quality issues for years before realizing i had hop latent, and likely some other canna-specific spores floating around. i sprayed pesticides for mites i likely didn't have when it was actually fungal, or maybe bacterial issues, that were also wreaking havoc.

maybe others will disagree but the best 'fix' for this is switching to bulk salts and running some form of drain to waste. i'm working my way towards that now.

i very recently had a plant wilt/droop (all tops are like arches) for no apparent reason. the roots could barely be broken apart by hand. there was no visible issues with the crown, no brown streaks or dead spots in the stem. no structural issues with the plants. but they were slower than they should've been and exhibited light green growth and other symptoms that long-time sufferers have reported to have had.


sulfur burner, heat treatments, aspirin, regalia

the problem is you will be harboring latent issues if you are growing from clones

I understand the risks I think you're speaking to, re. clones from infected plants.

I can add, however, that I've whipped established Fusarium Wilt, despite taking clones from green healthy-looking tops of (young) pre-symptomatic (infected) mothers, repeatedly, and using the various products I've referenced, applied in soilless mixes when planting clones, or even rooting clones..

I was stubborn and diligent, and was also working on improving my medium throughout that process, which is still a work in progress.

But we cleaned the shop like crazy, disinfected gear and pots, treated soilless mixes & rooting medium with prophylactic doses of bio-fungicides, etc. We won, but it was a LONG and tedious battle.