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Another NGB.....with cool tube

C

cs70

hey DiscoBiscuit very nice air system upgrade ,i did the same with my closet,its almost ready ,its not so perfect like i imagine but when u grow stealth ,there is no options .i would like to ask u some thing what system u use to close the door and do the light leak tru ? when i close my closet door the light come tru ,and i am thinking right now how to close it tight ,i put a weather strip all around the doors but i cant close it proper now ,u have any idea?how to fix it,tommorow i get my piece of board for double floor so then its ready ,also no space for ballast inside the utility room so i put it outside ,for now i have seeds from sensi but in future i have room for clones ,could u explain ur air ventilation inside the babys room please, so much stress ,i use to grow in big nice home box where everything is ready lol
thx and best regards
thx in advance
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
hey guys
yeah well i am in new country and i bring almost all my stuff with me and in few days my closet is ready ,i didnt go for washing machine cause too much trouble transforming it and i want sativa so i needed more vertical space,i will post new thread soon as all stuff is ready,
best regards

Hello, cs70. I'm sorry I missed your post. It gets pretty quiet over here. I look forward to seeing your closet.
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
hey DiscoBiscuit very nice air system upgrade ,i did the same with my closet,its almost ready ,its not so perfect like i imagine but when u grow stealth ,there is no options .i would like to ask u some thing what system u use to close the door and do the light leak tru ? when i close my closet door the light come tru ,and i am thinking right now how to close it tight ,i put a weather strip all around the doors but i cant close it proper now ,u have any idea?how to fix it,tommorow i get my piece of board for double floor so then its ready ,also no space for ballast inside the utility room so i put it outside ,for now i have seeds from sensi but in future i have room for clones ,could u explain ur air ventilation inside the babys room please, so much stress ,i use to grow in big nice home box where everything is ready lol
thx and best regards
thx in advance

Hello again. I had to "fix" light leaks with weather strip.

System to close the door - If by this you mean hinges, they came with the cabinet. They're interior mounted, spring loaded clasps. 1/8" of space between the cabinet face and closed doors had to be weather stripped. I used 1/8" thick, felt stripping.

The veg chamber has six, 1" holes drilled in the floor. The veg ceiling/utility floor has four, 1" holes. These holes have 1" pvc elbows for light and dust trapping.

What type of door do you have, cs70? If nothing else, a large sheet of panda film or black plastic can work in a pinch. Depending on the door type, we might can get something more convenient.
 
C

cs70

hi man thx for help

hi man thx for help

hey thx for info
:)
now sitting and thinking last details
here some pictures
the cooltube is abit long , i build one from baker round but my daughter walked on it and break ,i want to cry ,i was planing on move cooltube up and down but now its not moving ,but its ok no one hurt lol the white can u see is for waterin i plan to use tropf blumats ,frien of mine use it in holland many years and he is very happy with it and the bottom shelf is for little ones for future
in 3 days i start to work so i put seeds to germinate ,so the closet needs to be ready soon, i use 250 HPS LAMP sunmaster for grow and flower:tiphat::thank you:i also have 250 HPS OSRAM PLANTASTAR ,i dont know what is better i grow before with osram 600 watt and i was happy with it
the problem is my rvk fan is conected directly to cooltube so the air is sucked out of growing room but not the left side of the closet how could i fix it?
preparing to paint the floor flat black now
i build all this in 3 days lol
sry for my english i try my best
best regards
 

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DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
hey thx for info
:)
now sitting and thinking last details
here some pictures
the cooltube is abit long , i build one from baker round but my daughter walked on it and break ,i want to cry ,i was planing on move cooltube up and down but now its not moving ,but its ok no one hurt lol the white can u see is for waterin i plan to use tropf blumats ,frien of mine use it in holland many years and he is very happy with it and the bottom shelf is for little ones for future
in 3 days i start to work so i put seeds to germinate ,so the closet needs to be ready soon, i use 250 HPS LAMP sunmaster for grow and flower:tiphat::thank you:i also have 250 HPS OSRAM PLANTASTAR ,i dont know what is better i grow before with osram 600 watt and i was happy with it
the problem is my rvk fan is conected directly to cooltube so the air is sucked out of growing room but not the left side of the closet how could i fix it?
preparing to paint the floor flat black now
i build all this in 3 days lol
sry for my english i try my best
best regards

Oooh....I see what we have now. Stunning job!

I had the same problem with my bake a round.... too long. I just pushed it into the utility chamber a little farther.

Your air system looks good for flower. You can add holes in the closet floor and shelves (on the left side.) A "Y" splitter on the fan intake would allow channeling of air through left and right sides. You might have to consider another scrubber for veg, especially if you plan to keep mothers. The problem with this method is less airflow on the right side.

OR

You could cut the floor and shelf holes and get an additional exhaust fan/scrubber for the left side. If you decide to go with another exhaust fan, cut holes in the floor and 1st shelf only. Mount the fan in the middle chamber. This reduces the need to suck air through three chambers to two chambers...better efficiency.

Very nice job! :thank you: can't wait to see your grow pics.
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
cs70, I forgot to mention. Felt stripping might be better than foam or sponge. You have similar hinges to mine. There's usually a 1/8" gap between the closed doors and the closet face. Measure your gap and fill the space with felt stripping. Get up-to but not more-than 1/8" thick (where 1/8" represents your actual thickness.)

It works better to strip the closet face and not the doors. You can lay the closet on it's face and loosen the hinge adjustment screws (not the mounting screws.) With the felt stripping in place, realign the adjustment screws and tighten. Your doors should hang better and if done correctly, the gap will be filled without door jams.
 
C

cs70

Oooh....I see what we have now. Stunning job!

I had the same problem with my bake a round.... too long. I just pushed it into the utility chamber a little farther.

Your air system looks good for flower. You can add holes in the closet floor and shelves (on the left side.) A "Y" splitter on the fan intake would allow channeling of air through left and right sides. You might have to consider another scrubber for veg, especially if you plan to keep mothers. The problem with this method is less airflow on the right side.

OR

You could cut the floor and shelf holes and get an additional exhaust fan/scrubber for the left side. If you decide to go with another exhaust fan, cut holes in the floor and 1st shelf only. Mount the fan in the middle chamber. This reduces the need to suck air through three chambers to two chambers...better efficiency.

Very nice job! :thank you: can't wait to see your grow pics.
hi again and thx for help
so if i understand correctly the (A "Y" splitter on the fan) is a divider for air i put it on the fan and 1 duct pipe go to flower chamber and another stay open inside the utility shelf to suck air from left side? so i need holes on the left side ; no i dont gonna keep mothers, only for cutting to reduce time ,from seed its take longer ,the fan is the smallest i could find quickly before i moved 1 month ago to new hot country ,its 250 cfm rvk fan ,
i just finished painting floor here is the picture ,i still think ur air system with floor so awesome man thx ,sry i steal ur idea :)
now the biggest problem is how to shut the doors really tight ,because of the weather strip the wont close proper ,maybe u have some idea?
best regards
:thank you:
 

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DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
hi again and thx for help
so if i understand correctly the (A "Y" splitter on the fan) is a divider for air i put it on the fan and 1 duct pipe go to flower chamber and another stay open inside the utility shelf to suck air from left side? so i need holes on the left side ; no i dont gonna keep mothers, only for cutting to reduce time ,from seed its take longer ,the fan is the smallest i could find quickly before i moved 1 month ago to new hot country ,its 250 cfm rvk fan ,
i just finished painting floor here is the picture ,i still think ur air system with floor so awesome man thx ,sry i steal ur idea :)
now the biggest problem is how to shut the doors really tight ,because of the weather strip the wont close proper ,maybe u have some idea?
best regards
:thank you:

You're correct on the splitter.

About the doors -

You need felt stripping, it doesn't crush uneven like foam or sponge.

What you most need is felt stripping and door alignment. Attach the glue side of the felt stripping to the closet face. This will leave the non-glued side of the felt against the doors. You need a flat surface such as a large table top, concrete floor or tile floor. Lay the cab on it's face (doors on the tabletop or the floor.) Loosen the hinge adjustments, not mounts. Using your thumb and fingertips, position your door edges flush with the closet. The weight of your cab will press against the felt and align the gap that light passes through. The felt wont crush unevenly and will fill this gap pretty well. Tighten then adjustment screws and you should have a tight, gap seal

I also use one drywall screw between the two doors, screwed into the divider and tightened only enough to clamp the door edges shut. You might need a nylon washer for the screw head, else the steel screw head might eventually cut into the MDF.

EDIT: If you do the door hinge allignment, you'll have to temporarily take the handles off. If the top panel edge isn't flush with the doors, let it hang off the table edge to get a flush seal to align the hinge adjustment screws.

Sorry, it's a bit hard to explain.
 
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C

cs70

hello again
so yes i understand but the doors with out weather strip closing very nice ,i just need something to pull them tight against the weather strip,so i came up with this ,i will put 1 hook inside the closet and 1 on the door and i use rubber to pull the door close ,i will have to pull hard the door,just enough to take the rubber from hook and thats it ,what u think?
thanx for ur time man
best regards
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
Sounds good, I always wanted to latch my doors shut properly. The screw works good enough. I always have a driver handy, lol.

I checked into cam locks. One "barrel" sized hole through the door. The "cam" turns with a key and latches against a jam, (usually a right angle piece of steel that's screwed into the vertical divider panel.)

Here's another idea. A ~"2 strip of tire inner-tubing or like material. Folded at a right angle and glued to the closet (not the door.) This makes a flap at the light gap, sealing out the light.
 
C

cs70

hi

hi

hello again
so i finished my closet ,just need to cover few more little places with weather strip ,the temperature inside is 30 degrees C° ,the temperature in the room is 27 C° ,so difference is 3 degrees its ok ,winter coming so the temp will go down ,i put air con for now to keep temp low ;i germinated my 3 big bud feminized seeds they all
open and root come out ,i put them in biobizz light mix soil yesterday ,and sprayed with water ,they r now in propagator in the closet under light ,i dont have enough light its very cloudy here,i spray them with water from time to time to keep humidity at 80% around,the temp in closet now is 27 C° they still didnt sprout i hope they will do tomorrow ,finger crossed ,my northern lights germinated and sprout in 2 days ,big bud take a bit longer, i stored them in the fridge so maybe because of that they take longer
1 more question ,should i use osram plantastar dual spectrum hps light 250 W or sunmaster dual spectrum hps 250 light ?any expirience?
here some pictures enjoy and if someone have question dont hesitate to ask ,i will answer as soon as i can .big thx goes to DiscoBisquit for help and amazing idea about the air intake system
i will post from time to time to report on progress
thx again and best regards
 

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DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
Hello cs70, good to hear you're underway. Sorry, don't know about the lamps. I had a rough summer too, hottest on record in my area. Best wishes with your grows, I look forward to your reports.
 
C

cs70

hi DIscoBisquit :tiphat:
never mind the lamp i will use osram plantastar ,i know the lamp and its work great for me ,sunmaster i keep for emergency.2 seeds sprout and 1 almost out too ,they have difficult time because of perlite in soil ,i had to remove big perlite rock which was on one of the seeds ,the 1 seedling is perfect but the other 2 leaves not open yet and they r not straight ,they like letter L ,i hope they get better ,finger crossed
good luck for u and talk to u soon
thx a lot :thank you:
 
C

cs70

hi all
so the girl r bigger they stretch a bit not enough natural light ,too much cloudy here but very hot,the girls r 5 cm long i put them in the box under light 18 hours light we see how they do ,the temp inside the box is high around 29c° but i cant put so much air-con the box is in the daughters room ,she get sick at night ,so the little ones have to adapt themselves i spray plenty of water to keep humidity at 80% ,i adjust the pH at 6.8 ; i put little clip on fan inside to move air , i am so tierd to much to do ,i start also work today so go shower and sleep ,but before i drink 6 tuborgs
good luck to all of u and peace and love
if anyone know how to bring temperature down please share with me
thx in advance
 

WESTCRAZY1

Member
hey disco, how hard was it to seal the light leak? I just saw this exact cab on craigslist for pretty cheap. I might get it but only if it doesnt have major issues with light leakage. Also when u got the cab if u didnt decide to divide the cab vertically then it would have just been a whole space 32" correct? Hope to hear from u, im very tempting to get this cab.
 

DiscoBiscuit

weed fiend
Veteran
WESTCRAZY1, this is one of the more aggravating parts of the cab job. Many ways have drawbacks. It's basically your call between expense and aggravation. Right angles are key to blocking light in most cases.

Best option, possibly most expensive:

Get a cab with door(s) [or at least door frame(s)] that shut inside the cabinet opening. You'll get a right angle and a minimal, uniform gap in most cases. This goes a long way to trap light. Weather strip finishes the job out nice and neat in many cases.

Next best option for non-countersunk (butt-against-cab-type) doors:

If you have a table saw, you can cut 1" x 1" strips of white pine shelving and fashion right angles by mounting the strips to the inside door face. These strips are cut to length, assembled like a frame and glued or screwed to the inside door(s) facing. This "frame" fits just inside the cab opening and forms a right angle, thus blocking light. This basically mimics a sunken or countersunk door/frame etc. If done properly, it's as good and workable as the more pricey cab option.



My cab has butt-type cab/door construction and is weather stripped. For this to work ok the gap has to be parallel, any taper in the gap will render weather-stripping less effective.

If you go the weather stripping route, temporarily align your door(s) so the gap is even, ie. space between cabinet face and door(s) doesn't taper.

Your roll(s) of weather stripping should be:

Long enough to go all the way around each door.

The width of the cabinet material thickness... ex 5/8" MDF.

The thickness of the gap you wish to fill... ex 1/8". (If stripping isn't thick enough, it won 't fill the gap and light may leak. Too thick and the door(s) may not close properly.)

All of this would mean you'd need a roll of stripping sized 5/8" wide, 1/8" thick and the length you need for your door(s) size.

IMO, felt stripping works better than (non-memory) foam. Felt doesn't deform the way foam/sponge does. If you're stuck with spongy stripping, make sure your gap is uniform before even attempting this exercise in frustration, lol.

The best kind of felt stripping comes with adhesive on one side. Otherwise you might try spray adhesive to apply.

Glue/adhere the stripping to the cab, not the door(s). Mount the doors the same way they were temporarily mounted and adjusted, the gap should be filled. (You may have to work with it a while.)




Another method, at least for the door-hinge side(s) is to use a 2" or 3" wide strip of flexible, lightproof material. It can't interfere with the hinges so you have to pleat the strip at the hinges and glue only the linear edges of the strip to the interior cab and door(s) edges respectively.



If you have to light-seal the gap that runs vertical between two doors...

Wooden yard sticks make great door flaps. In this case you could glue half the width of the wooden yard stick along the edge of one door (master.) The other door (slave) shuts into the right angle formed by the yard stick and the master door edge.




To block passive intake(s)...
(works great, little to no problems)

I like passive intakes in the cab bottom (only works if the cab bottom is several inches above the floor it sits on.) A single large intake in the cab bottom can be light sealed with a piece of plywood cut 1" smaller (width and length, respectably) than the cab floor. Using spacers, the smaller plywood panel is "spaced" a couple of inches from the cab bottom. Air flows between the 1" gap all away around the panel at the cab bottom. The panel traps light both in and out. In addition, your plant pots or containers wont block the hole because they're sitting above on the raised panel.

If I can help you decide on the method(s), let me know. I've done most and might help avoid any setbacks that aren't cooperative with your particular cab construction.
 
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C

cs70

hi all so here is quick update
hey discobiscuit ur design works perfectly ,i like the double floor idea very much and awesome ,i just finished with my second (stealth) grow ,3 big bud femenised girls inside ,i get 120gramms (4.2) ounces dry weed ,very loko hahahahahahaaha biobizz nutes also rock big time ,great product i will use it again
last few days i was busy fixing the closet and updating it ,i make a seedlings clones room ,75cm tall ,60cm deep and 30cm wide ,i plan to put 45 watt cfl bulb wuth reflector and a pc fan for air simulation and stimulation lol
the air is sucked out tru the main exorst fan ,i have passive intake holes on the bottom of the closet
and also i have dry room ,where i can dry my weed ,so i think i can get every 7 weeks same amount very nice ,but next time i will play with girls top them and a bit of bending and stuff lol
just the humidity was around 70% all time so the carbon filter prima klima didnt work very good ,i could still smell a bit of weed but very little
and also my cooltube is a bit long 49CM i have space 60cm SO no space to move it ,but i will buy 32cm long cooltube and like this i can drop it down and up very sweet
also disco go for airpots man they fuccing so great man u will love them,i not only saved like3 weeks time because the girls grow like hell inside also they was 78cm tall in only 3 liter pots hahahahahahah every 3rd day watering here is the link

http://www.superoots.com/air_intro.htm

next grow is 3 shiva skunk feminized girls
here some pics without all the stuff inside
so when i fix all the equipment inside i will post again
good luck how is ur cab doing?
best regards
 

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