An Experiment, Alternate Photoperiods for Flowering. tags... 21/12 24°,39'' mars phi

[earthwyrms]

hi, i had an idea and wanted to try it so here is my idea

also
links to threads on alternate photoperiods, because, while there is info on different threads, re-finding them by search engine and search bar, isn't always fruitful.

here is an ongoing thread on alternate photoperiods,
Effects of different photoperiods on flowering.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=156499

21/12 in flowering.. huh?
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=65713

18/12 light cycle
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=72995


Anyone tried 18 hours dark 6 hours light during flower?
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=331650

on page #1 post #7
phaeton writes

"13/10 with Far Red at twilight and full spectrum during the day is closest to nature and gives best yield with the least stress.Without the Far Red 11/13 appears to be the best average."




11/13 is what i went with for long flowering sativas. the lights have far red as well





Re: 21:36/12 photoperiod
http://www.420magazine.com/forums/frequently-asked-questions/74166-21-36-12-photoperiod.html

on page #1 post #3
medical marijuana writes

"The only photoperiod manipulation from years of experiments that offered discernible improvements was the following photoperiod adjustment made for 1 or 2 calendar weeks at the point of maximum flowering rate: Daylength of 21 hours, 36 minutes with a dark period of 12 hours. To accomplish this, you need a 7 day, 24 hour digital timer. During a 7 day calendar week on Earth, the "sun" only cycles 5 times."







here is the quote in full

"
Re: 21:36/12 photoperiod

I ran across something that is in the experimental stage if you are interested.

[DISCLAIMER]: This information is provided as experimental data and not fact.

The only photoperiod manipulation from years of experiments that offered discernible improvements was the following photoperiod adjustment made for 1 or 2 calendar weeks at the point of maximum flowering rate: Daylength of 21 hours, 36 minutes with a dark period of 12 hours. To accomplish this, you need a 7 day, 24 hour digital timer. During a 7 day calendar week on Earth, the "sun" only cycles 5 times. This permits easily switching back to the regular 12/12 at your discretion. You may want to only alter during peak flower production to stimulate the plant's metabolism. Using this photoperiod throughout the flowering cycle will cause this:

A variety that takes 49 days of 12/12 to mature, won't see 49 - 12 hour dark periods under 21:36/12 until almost 10 calendar weeks have passed.

The total increase in light energy is almost 80%, which will produce larger yields, if all of your other enviromental conditions are kept optimal.

The total increase in flowering period is only 40%, half the potential room for improvement. This means you don't have to be perfect to win out.

Selective application of the 21:36/12 photperiod for only 1 or 2 weeks extends the wait only 2 to 4 Earth days, which makes up the missing 2 complete day and night cycles each week on Planet Ito. This permits the additional light energy to be provided without purchasing additional equipment or overloading existing circuits, which maximizes the existing system's capabilities. The main advantage is that matched with co2 and optimal nutrition, the plants metabolism will increase dramatically. I have only successfully tested this photoperiod for two weeks. The potential for a net increase of 40% over the entire cycle (80% increase in light energy vs. 40% longer wait) is worthwhile. Don't be afraid!

Day 1 - Sunday, 6:00am til Monday, 3:36am
Day 2 - Monday, 3:36pm til Tuesday, 1:12pm
Day 3 - Wednesday, 1:12am til Wednesday, 10:48pm
Day 4 - Thursday, 10:48am til Friday 8:24am
Day 5 - Friday, 8:24pm til Saturday 6:00pm

"




OK, now on to what this experiment is

 

[Phaeton]

I have studied attempts at these type gardens before. None of them were conclusive in firm numbers.
Many ended up with 16/12, mainly because that fits the hours in a week the best rather than having the best tested yields. A single seven day timer could be used without weekly resetting.

The increase in harvest weights were not as rigorous as they should have been, many extraneous variables were present. The extra daylength resulted in a ten day longer flowering time to get the increase. This cannot be ignored when figuring monthly yields. Control plants cloned from the same mother for comparison was also not done, invalidating most yield comparisons.

Larger buds with fewer cycles per year and fewer plants to be cared for may be a boon to many gardens in cramped areas.
This is testing that could be of benefit and I wish you luck on the difficult path you have chosen.

 

[earthwyrms]

running a test at approx 23day left in flower

running a test at approx 23day left in flower

this is a partial experiment, because, there is no control group; however,

in effect, it will hopefully give data to use intuitively with logic and a general idea, before a cloned control and experimental group an be tested.

this isn't a commitment, in a way, it is a general test, if my stash comes out better or not will be hard to say. with limited space and many crosses and selfing/preservation runs to do, it will most likely not be definitively tested with a clone of a strain unless i build tinier micro boxes for testing. no promises (mental mind games being played with self due to word commitment and variables in future thought/options) i also don't like writing i, because i want this to be general info documentation, but haven't figured out how yet because referring to myself in third person seems funny.

anyway,

on to it

there is a idea i have sometimes about using planetary orbits and rotations for calculations. the moon was an idea i had, (i'm sure many have, i'm only documenting my personal chronology, any way enough of that).
the real trouble with playing with numbers, is that there are only 7 day timers, which means, more complex, equation derived cycles, are not implementable, like a 27.xxxxxxx day week or something with shifting days.

i looked at the 21:36/12 post and was thinking about phi, the golden ratio.
if 21:36 is turned to decimal, 21 + 36/60 and divided by phi, /((1+5^.5)/2)
the number for dark could be 13.34953416 hr
13°, ((13.34953416 - 13) * 60)'' = .34953416 * 60 = 20.97204942'' ---again---> 20.97204942 - 20 =.97204942----> * 60 = 58.3229652'
13°, 20'', 58.3229652'
that is for illustrative DIY process

so 21:36 on and 13:20 off seemed to be better for me to do long flowering sativas
however it doesn't ome full circle in a 7 day timer (168hrs to work with),
AND i was thinking about mars, and it has a rotation of 24°, 36'', 35.244'
i wanted to
use something to do with mars in a photoperiod, so logically, i could use proportions of 11/24 and multiply that by 24:39 (which is easier being decimal first), but i wanted to do the extended photoperiod thing too, so

i took 24 + 36/60 + 35.244/60^2 and divided it by phi, ((1+5^.5)/2)
getting 15.24058838 hrs which is 15° 14'' 26.11815155'

limited by a light timer, this is 24:39 ON 15:14 OFF, and also doesn't divide into 168hrs evenly, so i started hacking, trying to fit in the 21:36/13:20 and 24:39/15:14 into 168hrs and fill the remaining with phi based proportions.

i ended up coming up with something that had the 24:39/15:14 photoperiod in the middle and the remainder (128 7/60 hrs) and divided it by 4 for 5 total days. then i took those individual periods, and divided them by phi. after adapting it to the light timer, it came to 19:47 ON 12:14 OFF. this was not at or over a 13 hour dark period so i kept going; however, what it did have was something i was interested in, a LIGHT/TOTAL ratio of 0.618154762, close to 1/phi, ~0.618033989. (i think the digit rounding contributes to it being off). inverse, 1/x, is 1.617717862 which is close to the inverse of 1/phi, phi, 1.618033989.

so i wanted to get that ratio (1/phi)as the light/total time ratio (which means light to dark is phi ratio)

 

[BakedBandit]

This seems to be about more light hours per "day", anyone try less? 8 "days" per week could be 9 on 12 off for example? 8 21 hour days in a 168 hour week? Would take a 8 weeks strain to 7 weeks....
Always wants to do an experiment with maybe 10 on 11 off but not ever been able to try it. Could save like 2 weeks on long flowering sativas!

 

[earthwyrms]

aims: (mars day length) ON / (mars day length)/φ --------->(ON/OFF = φ/1)
[timer wouldn't just run that interval, so]

aims: that interval as the center day and remaining days that have φ/1 ratios
{remaining time in 168hrs gave day lengths that were very long and/or night lengths that were under 13hrs when those days were accounted for}
so a new approach was taken,

aims: the interval as the center day and the remaining time in the 168hr week is split into φ:1 light:dark ratio

168*(1/φ) - 24 39/60 = day hours to use = 79.17971011 hrs
168*(1 - 1/φ) - 15 14/60 = night hours to use = 48.93695656 hrs

these when divided by φ

ON, 79.17971011/φ = 48.93575207 hrs ON, remainder = 30.24395804 hrs ON 48.93575207 hrs ON/φ = 30.24395804 hrs (other), this one has a remainder of 18.69179402 hrs and when it (30.24395804 hrs) is divided by φ, it equals 18.69179402 hrs, with a remainder of 11.55216402 hrs

OFF, 48.93695656/φ = 30.24470246 hrs OFF, remainder = 18.6922541 hrs OFF 30.24395804 hrs OFF/φ = 18.6922541 hrs with a remainder of 11.55244836 hrs


see how the slight rounding in the 24:39 martian day and the night value derived, changes the value a little, it is really close as are all the numbers because they should actually be identical

here is where i saw i could not use all three nights, as they were not all over 13hrs, and also that i had a non equal number of up and down which meant my cycle wouldn't work

so

on the ON side, 30.24395804 hrs was kept,
11.55216402 was divided by phi to get 7.139630008 hrs with a remainder of 4.412534012 hrs. these were added to the two 18.69179402 hrs
18.69179402 hrs + 7.139630008 hrs = 25.83142403 hrs
18.69179402 hrs + 4.412534012 hrs = 23.10432803 hrs


and
on the OFF side,
11.55244836 hrs was divided by phi to get 7.13980574 hrs with a remainder of 4.41264262 hrs
11.55244836 hrs was kept and 4.41264262 hrs was added to it, which was subtracted from one of the 18.6922541 hrs, with one 18.6922541 hrs left over
18.6922541 hrs - 4.41264262 hrs = 14.27961148 hrs
11.55244836 hrs + 4.41264262 hrs = 15.96509098 hrs

so there were alot of ways to pair ON/OFF and what order their days were, i went with 1 of 2 choices i was looking at
these are the values in hours and minutes (the minutes have to be checked and rounded right to get a 168hr total)

A 23° 06'' E 18° 41''
B 25° 50'' F 15° 58''
C 30° 15'' G 14° 17''
D 24° 39'' H 15° 14''

i settled on 2 choices
DH BE CF AG
DH CE BF AG (THIS one was chosen)
(DH [BEC] FAG
DH [CEB] FAG)
notice the slight variance,

so this was put into a 7 day timer with D, the martian day length as the first start.

here is the programming

MON 00:00 ON_______________________24° 39''
TUES 00:39 OFF_____________15° 14''
TUES 15:53 ON_______________________30° 15''
WEDS 22:08 OFF_____________ 18° 41''
THURS 16:49 ON_______________________25° 50''
FRI 18:39 OFF_____________15° 58''
SAT 10:37 ON_______________________23° 06''
SUN 09:43 OFF_____________14° 17''


so it's kind of a frankenstein monster, but i'm curious about what happens
it turns out that adding the LIGHT periods and dividing by the TOTAL periods gives 0.618055555, which is inverse is 1.61797753 and which is closer than before to golden ratio values
1/φ, 1/((1+5^.5)/2), 0.618033989
φ, ((1+5^.5)/2), 1.618033989

the week worked out to be 4 days






if i got this right
the ratio of light to total time
of an 11/13 photoperiod is 11/24 ( ALSO 11 * 7) / 168 and is 0.458333333
and
the ratio of a 21:36/12 photoperiod is (21:36 * 5) / 168 and is 0.642857143

the ratio of 0.618055555 is less than the ratio of a 21:36/12 photoperiod, 0.642857143 but with a 4 day week, that means it runs 7/4 rather than 7/5

for the last 3 weeks of a 70 day flower strain and vegged for 30 days, energy use and time charateristics should be,

(24/24) * 30 + (11/24) * (70 - 21) + (11/24) * (7/7) * 21 = days on, = 62.08333333 days
30 + (70 - 21) + (7/7) * 21 = total days = 100 days
(divide the two for total on/total ratio) * 100= 62.08333333%

(24/24) * 30 + (11/24) * (70 - 21) + 0.642857143 * (7/5) * 21 = days on, = 71.35833333 days
30 + (70 - 21) + (7/5) * 21 = total days = 108.4 days
(divide the two for total on/total ratio) * 100= 65.82872078%

(24/24) * 30 + (11/24) * (70 - 21) + 0.618055555 * (7/4) * 21 = days on, = 75.17187498 days
30 + (70 - 21) + (7/4) * 21 = total days = 115.75 days
(divide the two for total on/total ratio) * 100= 64.94330452%

flower time energy (possible absorbtion) in the last 3 weeks comparison


11/13
(11/24) * (7/7) * 21
9.625 days

9.625 days / ( 7/7 * 21 days)
0.458333333

this ratio thing, (11/24) * (7/7)
0.458333333




21:36/12
((5*(21+36/60))/168) * (7/5) * 21
18.9 days

18.9 days / ( 7/5 * 21 days)
0.642857143

this ratio thing, ((5*(21+36/60))/168) * (7/5)
0.9




frankenphi
((24+39/60+30+15/60+25+50/60+23+6/60)/168) * (7/4) * 21
22.71354165 days

22.71354165 days / ( 7/4 * 21 days)
0.618055555

this ratio thing, ((24+39/60+30+15/60+25+50/60+23+6/60)/168) * (7/4)
1.081597221

i'm not quite sure what those values mean
OK, i'm going to leave this for now, it may be evident, i'm still figuring it out.

 

[earthwyrms]

This seems to be about more light hours per "day", anyone try less? 8 "days" per week could be 9 on 12 off for example? 8 21 hour days in a 168 hour week? Would take a 8 weeks strain to 7 weeks....
Always wants to do an experiment with maybe 10 on 11 off but not ever been able to try it. Could save like 2 weeks on long flowering sativas!

yes, thank you. there was an article i read that mentioned cannabis having four stages of flowering.

theoretically, with a long flowering sativa, the 8 day week could work for the non critical parts where it is slow and changed to the , 5 day, 21.6/12 hr period for the critical stages, like the last 3-4 weeks

http://bigbudsmag.com/marijuana-blo...four-marijuana-flowering-phases-not-just-one/

" Pre flowering (i guess, doesn't count, part of veg kind of)

Early flowering—Starting a few days after you put your lights to 12-12, pre-flowers begin turning into budding sites and then into “early flowers.”
Fast and generous development of budding sites and early flowers is crucial if you want larger yields and earlier harvests.
You use products like Bud Ignitor that create more budding sites faster.
In early flowering, your buds change as more white hairs develop, and as buds build calyxes, resin glands, and small support leaves.
Near the end of early flowering phase, marijuana early flowers have turned into small, tight, dense clusters that start to fill in the stem internodes.
This phase usually lasts 1-3 weeks after you switch to 12-12 lighting, depending on the genetics of your plants."

" Peak flowering—When your buds are well-developed, with increasing numbers and density of resin glands and mature floral structure, you’re in peak flowering.
This marijuana flowering phase is very important…it’s when your marijuana lays on the most THC, other cannabinoids and terpenes, size, and weight."


"Peak bloom is usually the longest phase of your 12-12 cycle, lasting 2-5 weeks for most cannabis strains."

" Late Flowering– When your resin glands and bud hairs are starting to deteriorate, but are not so deteriorated that your marijuana is wholly overripe, your plants are in late flowering phase.
This is usually the last 8-14 days before you harvest the plants.
For example, if you’re growing a cannabis strain that has a predicted 8-week flowering time, weeks 6-8 can be described as late flowering phase.
Late bloom stimulants like Overdrive add weight and THC during this phase by pushing your marijuana plants to add more bud development at a time most growers don’t think their cannabis plants are able to deliver more weight and THC."

somehow, there seems to be a way to do this, especially with long flowering sativas that seem to be really slow and yield less

unfortunately, with a 8 day week, 168/8 = 21hrs per day like you wrote, the long flowering sativas, supposedly need 13hrs dark to stay in flower,
unless there is far red, like phaeton wrote.
so they would have a 8/13hr day and may not yield alot.? i don't know really how much.

also to account for is stretch, i don't know,
as well as when those 4 (3) flowering stages are for a 120 day sativa,
when stretch zone is, in the 120 days, and if it contributes to bud growth or only stretch. that would be a good place to go 8/13 so the stretch is controlled and the flowering quickens, before throwing it to 11/13 or 21.6/13

if i am getting this somewhat, early flowering can use longer (8/13) weeks because the nodes were developed from veg and getting to peak flower will be faster.
then there is the stretch, which happens, (where?), which seems to be better to dwarf and speed through as well (unless it takes up all of the peak flower stage or is tied in with developing buds).
(side note: i saw once how preventing stretch in indicas by flowering earlier gave better yields because the large cola was either high or low but the same size either way).
supposedly, the last 2 weeks is where buds really put on some weight, so the last 2-3 is probably better with shorter weeks, 5 day, 21'6/12 fiddled with to be 13 dark though i guess,


, what if 120-120/phi is 8/13 and the rest, 120/phi, is something higher/13?

i guess the data really needed to get to it is,

when is the stretch of 120 day sativa?

how long does stretch last?

where is that sandwiched in the peak flowering stage?

when does the peak flowering stage?

how long does the peak flowering stage last?

does stretch period coincide with important bud production?

as a side note, the day cycle changing seems to change the nature of seed production, so maybe the plant can get partially pollinated even later in flower because the extended time would let them finish, with a 5 day week,
or, maybe the seeds themselves would develop longer and be better somehow.?

just to see,
if a 120 period was divided by phi, the two numbers would be,
74.16407865 and 45.83592135

if 8 day week then 5 day week
74.16407865 and 45.83592135
(74.16407865) * (7/8) = 64.89356882_____________ditto
(45.83592135) * (7/5) = 64.17028989_____________(45.83592135) * (7/4) = 80.21286236
total = 129.0638587 days_______________________total = 145.1064312 days

if 8 day week then 5 day week
45.83592135 and 74.16407865
(45.83592135) * (7/8) = 40.10643118_____________ditto
(74.16407865) * (7/5) = 103.8297101_____________(74.16407865) * (7/4) = 129.7871376
total = 143.9361413 days_______________________total = 169.8935688 days

maybe it yields more? but i figure it is good to have reference, for example, i chose the ordering of days and on/off periods in my test by writing out a grid of the week plan options and looked them all over to make sense of what i was looking at and see what was going up and down and following into a period of blah blah blah whatevr, but as you can see, running the lesser phi part of 120 at 7/8 then larger at 7/5, is similar to running larger phi part of 120 at 7/8 and lesser at 7/4. i didn't see that till now after writing it. cool

realistically, a 23 day left in flower, giving a 42 day left, in the test case, in a 70 day flower (normally), is not a bad gambit. om a 120 day flower, that is nothing to the total. with even just speeding up the less essential parts with the 7/8 week, and going to straight 7/7 for the rest, till 7/5,4, whatever for the last 3 weeks probably

i want to see how much my bud increases, but i have never seen a sucessfull bud produced, so this bulk up that happens at the last two weeks is my stash untill i can run another experiment (what pops, what not, whats my intended breeding to actual fathers gotten, and main stash yielders, ect.), so i want to max it, but can't compare it, unless it does nothing and i find out that even a doubling wouldn't likely occur with a sativa or because it's only in soil with water (i'm thinking of adding some nutrients, although, this now confounds the variables further, so i'm really just winging it and randomizing everything for optimum outcome, which is the case of micro breeding anyway because limited space means limited father mother selection and dependance on good stock to randomize forward

but the questions in brown really might help tinker it together


the TEST strain is
Flying Dutchman, Kerala Krush (kerala sativa, skunk #1 BX) *
Tropical Seeds Company, King Congo (ciskei * congo pointe noire)
both have a 10-11 week flower, so their cross shouldn't, but could, be over 70-77 days

(kerala sativa, skunk #1 BX) * (ciskei * congo pointe noire)

the kerala isn't a pure sativa but it was the only kerala i could find. when a king congo preservation attempt didn't go as planned, the only mother in the chamber was kerala krush. also, it was late in flower and might have selfed, but not on the popcorn nugs because those few seeds seemingly definately came from the king congo. and out of all the 6 seeds recovered, 3 popped and all were female, so it's a little confusing, but it isn't neccesarry for it to be clear because it isn't a pure sativa and it's genealogical purity isn't as important because it isn't being preserved as a landrace kerala. kerala krush is awesome though

 

[earthwyrms]

the plant was kept to close to the light. there was alot of bleached/dryed buds that made the plant look mostly yellowish, with the good frosty green parts being not so present. i thought maybe that was like columbian gold, with the stalks being damaged, but i don't know. the outcome quality really suffered, it seems. it was from being to close to the light (and maybe not enough water) i think. bud development seemed to not increase to full potential because of it, if there was better yield/quality result . the yield was seemingly not much higher than normal or not higher than normal, if it were kept at 11/13 i guess. it was harvested ~8 days (8 * 4/7 days ~4-5 days) early (and some days up to that gradually), as the plant was drying out.

 

[Encrypt]

I'm very interested to see your results, my personal experience with different photoperiods lead me to mimic the natural environment where the genetics are from.

I'm using a day schedule since early veg dropping to 12/12.
Flower dropping ~2minutes a day, ending with a 11/13, this is what give me the best results in all factors, time, yield, potency, taste, this is for sativa dominant genetics.

I think the genetics are the biggest factor, today there is so many crosses and manipulation that some strains only achieve their max efficiency in a specific microclimate.

 

[earthwyrms]

I'm very interested to see your results, my personal experience with different photoperiods lead me to mimic the natural environment where the genetics are from.

I'm using a day schedule since early veg dropping to 12/12.
Flower dropping ~2minutes a day, ending with a 11/13, this is what give me the best results in all factors, time, yield, potency, taste, this is for sativa dominant genetics.

I think the genetics are the biggest factor, today there is so many crosses and manipulation that some strains only achieve their max efficiency in a specific microclimate.

i had stopped the experiment, i was harvesting the buds bit by bit, and the main plant i left be had dried out like a golden color, but that may have been from putting too much aunt jemima pancake syrup in the water mix as an experiment.

i kind of wing it untill i get something good, but i have yet to really succeed at a harvest.

11/13 with a 7day or 24hr timer worked for me for 12/12 (11/13) from seed when i tried micro growing and breeding sativas in the 1 square foot challenge thread, but i had mostly males, and killed off a good female plant by (also) adding too much sugar water ( with incubating too much "soluble mycorrhizae" mix in it for about 12hrs).

i tried the stated schedule written above on a third attempt, but the plants were thrown outside and after saving them and repotting them, i swithed to a different phi based lighting schedule based on a 168hr, 7 day timer. i am unsure how to automate a 2hr change in daily lighting besides programming a 7 day timer every week progressively.

with some calculations, a 168hr week with 8,7,6,5,4 days with day/night or night/day as phi/1 is;

8 = 12.97871376 night, 8.021286236 day about a 21hr day
7 = 14.83281573 night, 9.16718427 day a 24hr day
6 = 17.30495168 night, 10.69504832 day about a 29hr day

5 = 20.76594202 day, 12.83405798 night about a 33hr day
4 = 25.95742753 day, 16.04257247 night about a 42hr day

i set for the 5 day week
the rest were for just in case

the hours for the experiment was based on having a minimum flowering time that a sativa would flower with, that also had a day length that was phi times as long. in a 168hr cycle,

TECHNICAL
days = 168/(x + phi x), where the days has to be whole numbers for the 168 day timer. x was the nighttime hours, minimum, for a sativa
on a casio fx-9750GII graphing calculator
y = 168 / (x + (x((1+5^.5)/2))
when y = 5, x = 12.83405798
(for day, multiply by phi or set the equation for the number by
y = 168 / (x + (x/((1+5^.5)/2))
end of TECHNICAL


anyway the hours and minutes for the timer is
20:45 hours ON, 12:50 hours OFF
i wanted to pretend i was growing it on an alien planet that would have a night time enough to flower a sativa but also with a golden ratio to the sun time (or that it came from one) (but i was constrained by 168hrs)

and so set it at






1 00:00 ON 20:46 OFF
2 09:36 ON
3 06:22 OFF 19:12 ON
4 15:58 OFF
5 04:48 ON
6 01:34 OFF 14:24 ON
7 11:10 OFF

but with,
the odd schedule posted before, which it started with,
nitrogen rich soil, added to some of the plants which lacked soil

overwatering

and too high temperatures while i tried to get the carbon scrubber right (fan only now, and currently waiting for parts to build scrubber improved for bloom ) and humidity control

...the plants are in questionable health, but if they make it i can seed them and maybe get some smoke,
and at least save some genetics for the next try.

it hopefully works with

~rare dankness, moonshine haze (amnesia haze x neville's wreck)

~nerds at work (N.A.W), polar bear (green manalishi (motarebel, Pacific G13 mom with a G13/Hash Plant hybridized male) x (hashplant x double strawberry diesel))

~a flying dutchmen, kerala krush x tropical seeds company, king congo and/or ace seeds, zamaldelica, but possibly only a continued selfing kerala krush,
lol (peppery smell though, well it's a mystery, within a bounds of nearly pure sativa)

~space genetix, gorilla new york (karma genetics, polar bear x gorilla glue) x with tangerine pheno of NYCD from soma) the polar bear from karma is, ("Polar Bear is a selected Bear OG f1 cut from South Holland crossed with my White OG V2.0 male")
Bear OG cannabis strain by Karma Genetics is (OG #17 (Bear) x Biker Kush V1.0)

~ace seeds, zamaldelica male x eskob@r jalisco ibl female

~emerald triangle, sour lemon OG (Genetics: California Sour (Mexican Sativa x Afghan) x Lemon OG (unique OG pheno))

~dark horse genetics, bruce banner BX 2.0 (coal creek kush x strawberry diesel)


it may be nothing, but a good way to study phi, also there is an unknown/unlabeled which is most certainly another gorilla new york

there's a father bruce banner, an unsexed bruce banner and an unsexed, durban 70's from tropical seeds company in a parent chamber which was my first shot at micro growing like the 1 square foot challenge. the durban had wider leaves to start and are narrowing, while the other durban that i had was narrow to begin with but didn't recover from the being thrown out in the snow and re potted :/
i am realizing i am going to need many micro chambers to keep parents alive and learn to clone.

those are the variables for this round. the kerala krush is showing pistils, everything else is still in veg

most all the plants are droopy from water except the sativas, and the lights seem to be too much for them now, but i lowered the plants 3 days ago because of that and because they probably won't stretch more now.

also, i'm working on my describing details while also being clear/simple, but i am not very enthusiastic about re-desribing all this better now. also, a spherical planet with a 33.6hr day would have to be tilted, well, anyway, it's a good way to think about orbital mechanics or whatever its called.

 

[earthwyrms]

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