gunnaknow
Active member
Hey Gunna! You always generate good ideas.
Thanks, as do you Jump.
In the last session I tried to rehydrate the bud in humidor style, as I usually do with overdried buds.
I was in hurry and missed some 'opened water' that wasn't useful for the process.
From this point of view a steamer probably would be more neatly and quick instrument. I'll try it.
You could also just submerge the plant material in water for a few minutes, so long as the bits were of easily strainable size. I eat kelp regularly, which comes as dried leaf shreds and needs just five minutes soaking in water to fully reconstitute. I suspect that cannabis leaf trim would reconstitute very quickly also, although thicker, denser tissue like buds would obviously take longer. One would need to remember not to disturb the submerged material too much or use water that was too cold because both would encourage trichome dislodgment.
Will you do this also? I need some help because of the depletion of a plant resources and fresh ideas ofcourse.
Unfortunately, I don't have any bud to work with at the moment Jump.
Regarding cold climate I see more potency in arctic to get diamonds instead of simple amber.
What is the consistency of your amber after it's been in a warm 15-25°C room for a few hours? What temperature is it usually?
The description of 200 proof scares me a bit with words of (‘fatal over a short time period ‘,‘trace amounts of toxic benzene ‘) vs (3% of water).
They probably use 96% as input to get 200 proof after filters and absorbers, it would be better imo.
Yes, benzene is often used to redistill the ethanol to 200 proof and trace amounts will remain in the ethanol. One should use ethanol that has been purified by other means, such as by the use of hygroscopic substances like glycerin/glycerol or by the use or molecular sieves, which selectively adsorb water molecules but not ethanol molecules. You can even buy 95-96% ethanol and then purify it at home, by adding a molecular sieve material such as 3A zeolite. If one were planning to recapture the alcohol from the oil for reuse, through distillation, then the alcohol would obviously need to be dessicated each time. As Jump says, it might not be worth the effort but each to their own.
http://www.milehidistilling.com/Zeolite_3A_Ethanol_Dessicant_p/13030.htm
do you think its worthwhile to attempt to rig up a vacuum purging chamber using a aspirator for a common sink?
my problem has been that vacuum flasks and vessels designed to have a vacuum pulled on them are not of a shape that is easy to scrape out any oil... the oil has the be redissolved.
Have you thought about using a pressure cooker? They are built to withstand high pressures, so should also withstand low pressure. They have a pressure outlet fitting on the lid that could easily be adapted to fit tubing from a vacuum pump. Some pressure cookers have a small window in the lid, which would be helpful for observing when the oil had sufficiently reduced. As Jump was getting at before though, if it's ethanol that you're using, it's better to recapture the ethanol through distillation because of the high cost of undenatured ethanol. If it's just IPA then it doesn't matter because it's cheap.
You can distill ethanol whilst it's also under a vacuum, allowing you to recapture the ethanol aswel as reduce the temperature required but you really need to know what you're doing and it's beyond the scope of this thread.
http://homedistiller.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=17&t=5462&st=0&sk=t&sd=a
Gunna