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Alternatives to Perlite for soil aeration?

Plookerkingjon

Active member
...and the money and excess lawn food is a waste, too. When i saw all those people lined up for food during the pandemic, i thought about how many of them could have turned lawn into garden.
You know when I was growing up we had the Presidential Fitness campaign in this in our elementary school and I'm wondering if a similar campaign teaching kids and their formative years from kindergarten to the sixth grade how to grow the three sisters corn beans and squash instead of a lawn or at least forcing folks not I shouldn't say forcing going out of your way to encourage folks that have the ability with properties to rather than let Lawns take over or weeds or Japanese knotweed invasive etc etc etc that they plant the three sisters or something similar. The only caveat I could think that would be a huge issue would be the soils that they grow and would need to be made healthy so that they can be food grade level to grow in if that makes sense I might be using the wrong vernacular but I hope my point is being understood
 

[Maschinenhaus]

Active member
So anybody any idea what I might can use?
I can recommend lava granules, zeolite and pumice with the best conscience. In my soil mixtures a total of 10%, in addition to a drainage in the pot bottom of pure lava granules. The soil in the pot, I prefer between 11 and 20 liters in volume, stays moist longer, can breathe better and the microorganisms, fine roots find optimal conditions.

For years I have let my soil rest after harvest with the roots covered in the basement at about 8C° (46.4°F) until the roots have decomposed. I support this with water from my shrimp farm, about 2x - 3x I soak the pots during this time.

In the photo you can see 1 year in the cellar matured cannabis soil. Before the next seeds I add a little aloe gel, primary rock flour, kelp powder and worm humus in the soil.

20221030_170106.jpg
 
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exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Those rocks can be expensive depending on where one lives, but I do like the fact they can be used virtually indefinetely if the soil is reused! great post!
 

[Maschinenhaus]

Active member
Lava rocks in crop production

Pumice

In professional gardening, pumice has many useful functions. It is primarily used to improve the quality of soils and growing media. Due to its porous structure, pumice can optimize soil aeration, the ability to store water and soil texture in general. Pumice is conducive to root growth and can thus improve nutrient supply in an indirect way.

Pumice is a pure mineral aggregate of volcanic origin. It is considered a light, porous and glassy substrate characterized by low density. Pumice is formed by volcanic eruptions. It is chemically identical to lava, but differs in that the lava is exposed to gas-rich substances such as carbon dioxide and water vapor. Depending on the type of magma, a distinction is made between light and dark pumice.

For the enhancement of soils should be purchased rather small grain sizes up to 8mm. Larger grain sizes (8mm, 16mm, 32mm) are more suitable for succulent and cactus soils or as a drainage layer.

Lava

Lava has been a popular additive for many years. It can be found today in many mineral substrates, in tree substrates, in cactus soils or even in hydroponics. The many useful capabilities of the volcanic material have also been recognized by many allotment gardeners in recent years.

For horticulture, the pore-rich lava rocks are of particular interest.
Use of lava in the garden and for pot cultures

Lava is a very versatile substrate in the garden or for many pot cultures. It is sometimes used as the main components for cacti soils or hydroponics. Due to the porous structure of lava, it has excellent water conduction properties. In professional horticulture, lava is also used as a soil conditioner for tree planting. On the one hand, lava gravel and lava sand contain many valuable trace minerals such as iron, magnesium or boron, which are released quite slowly and continuously as part of weathering processes. On the other hand, it can improve soil structure within a short period of time. Lava impresses with the following properties:

- Absorption and storage of larger amounts of water
- Improvement of the aeration of the soil
- Optimization of the heat balance of the soil
- Sustainable release of trace minerals

I add lava granules mixed with pumice unwashed to the soil in all my crops, I add coarser lava as a top layer on top of the plant soil, it balances the moisture and microclimate in the pot better.

If you have to work with soil heating, mats should apply a thick layer of lava as insulation and only then put the pots on it. It helps save electricity and the climate in the grow room or tent is improved. The pots are not heated too much at the bottom which can otherwise have a negative effect on the life in the pot.

If there is interest I transfer the whole chapters of my compendium in the appropriate section of this forum?
 

Bio boy

Active member
Are clay hydroton balls useable ? Or do they alter ph like some said ?
mom looking to get clay balls or pearlite
I hope clay balls there less messy
 

Bio boy

Active member
can you get any pumice or lava rock? Big boi
Have to preform human sacrifices and herbal rituals to entice the gods for lava rocks
and the cheaper option takes a week delivery
pumice lol gold is cheaper I’ve got some but some is very some lol
 
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Craven_au

Active member
Hi guys,

I'm looking for alternatives to Perlite for soil aeration and to give better structure to the soil. Preferable something I can find around the house/garden or in nature.

The rule for me is that it needs to be something I don't have to go buy (or trade).

The reason is that this year I want to try to grow without having to buy anything from the gardenstore.

I'm currently busy with starting up my wormbin and what I read online and also the guys here on ICMag seem to say. Is that it might maybe be possible to grow in pure Vermicompost. But that soil compactation/aeration might be an issue.
(Check the thread here: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=359129)

I think I have read somewhere that some guys were using small river pebbles. And I have once seen a picture of some commercial organic soil that looks like they added small pieces of broken up red clay construction bricks.

So anybody any idea what I might can use?

(Rice/grain hulls aren't sold/traded in my country.)

Thanks for sharing.

:)

Nam Myoho Renge Kyo

Update:

Below is a list of suggestions from this thread.
I'm thinking crushed volcanic rock or old/broken again crushed terracotta pots even house tiles, aircrete maybe.
 
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goingrey

Well-known member
Are clay hydroton balls useable ? Or do they alter ph like some said ?
mom looking to get clay balls or pearlite
I hope clay balls there less messy
I have used it all my growing life without issue. These cation exchange pH issues people talk about must be exaggerated, if not entirely imaginary.
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
A nice fluffy grow medium doesn't need perlite or other bulking additive, but some mixes need it for sure. Depends on what you have, it can be good as it is or just need a bit of help with aeration.
 

blondie

Well-known member
I don’t have an alternative to perlite, but for anyone reading this who doesn’t already realize, keep in mind that perlite dust (or any fine dust one could assume) is NOT healthy for the lungs. I’ve started using a KN95 mask when working with soil mixes. I suspect it helps and it doesn’t seem it can hurt at all. Anything I can do to help keep shit out of my lungs means less work for them. Something to think about.
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
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Just wet it good and is safe to work it in a mix after. Actually, I just wear a mask when I fill my perlite storage bin (sealed cap with clamps type of bin) , outside, then I just put water over it and let it absorb it before using. That is safe to handle till it gets dry again at the end of the grow. But, while using it I did learn that good soil is fluffy soil, so I lately try to do the mix more fluffy in texture that it doesn't need perlite or other inert materials for that.
 

Bio boy

Active member
Just wet it good and is safe to work it in a mix after. Actually, I just wear a mask when I fill my perlite storage bin (sealed cap with clamps type of bin) , outside, then I just put water over it and let it absorb it before using. That is safe to handle till it gets dry again at the end of the grow. But, while using it I did learn that good soil is fluffy soil, so I lately try to do the mix more fluffy in texture that it doesn't need perlite or other inert materials for that.
Interesting thaught it wud be muddy without airation and rocks to aid drainage and oxygen
I mean after a few grows the fluffiness dies down eh?
I do notill organics but sounds like you remix each grow ? What medium recipies do you use bro

@Three Berries haha really? Like man your comments are awesomely different to mosts narrative , takes a few to workout if ya serious or taking the piss olol, maybe both ,either way I find them funny
and if not joking than damn man you think outside the box and i guess it shows you don’t stop reading even if you accept an amendment ..like this lol most use rocks perlite etc and you prob do too but cobs ? Lol I’m sure you don’t use them but have seen someone using them or talk about them . “ the full of useless Info” that isn’t so useless after all.
love it so am gona google again from your comment …
back…

“Aeration. Aeration is essential to aid the decomposition process. Corn cobs have air pockets in them, making them excellent materials for trapping air. Combined with other factors like extreme heat, moisture and microbes, your compost materials will be ready for use within a short period.”

fuck man hahaha. see lol seems like a joke yet ya deadly serious , sounds like gold lol mmm keep it coming berries i hope you don’t think I’m joking , I love the different , just always makes me go “wait no way he must be pulling my leg”

keeping all cobs now lol
 

Switcher56

Comfortably numb!
Interesting thaught it wud be muddy without airation and rocks to aid drainage and oxygen
I mean after a few grows the fluffiness dies down eh?
I do notill organics but sounds like you remix each grow ? What medium recipies do you use bro

@Three Berries haha really? Like man your comments are awesomely different to mosts narrative , takes a few to workout if ya serious or taking the piss olol, maybe both ,either way I find them funny
and if not joking than damn man you think outside the box and i guess it shows you don’t stop reading even if you accept an amendment ..like this lol most use rocks perlite etc and you prob do too but cobs ? Lol I’m sure you don’t use them but have seen someone using them or talk about them . “ the full of useless Info” that isn’t so useless after all.
love it so am gona google again from your comment …
back…

“Aeration. Aeration is essential to aid the decomposition process. Corn cobs have air pockets in them, making them excellent materials for trapping air. Combined with other factors like extreme heat, moisture and microbes, your compost materials will be ready for use within a short period.”

fuck man hahaha. see lol seems like a joke yet ya deadly serious , sounds like gold lol mmm keep it coming berries i hope you don’t think I’m joking , I love the different , just always makes me go “wait no way he must be pulling my leg”

keeping all cobs now lol
Well we can tell his gender, certain girls use like constantly...
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
A bit of coco and spaghnum moss does wonders to add aeration. Corn cobs would be good too, I guess. Even wood chips would help a bit, but they would need to be "composted" before so they don't draw too much N from your mix. Vermiculite is another option, but as with perlite I would not overuse it. And I guess if u dont have perlite available, that be the case for vermiculite as well.
 

Three Berries

Active member
I've got a deep and wide ditch down by a stream that about every ten years floods and then fills up with corncobs and stalks about 5 foot deep. It takes 4 years to break down and makes most excellent dirt.. So stalks too.
 
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