AC Boxes Made Easy (to understand and build)

[hoosierdaddy]

Actually the intake is 2 3" ducts which is 50% more intake then exhaust.

A 4" exhaust is 12.56 square inches of free air flow. A 3" duct is 7 sq in. Two 3" provides 14 sq in, which just over the size of the exhaust, not 50% over.
The math is: radius (distance from center of circle to outside of circle) x radius x pi(3.141) = square inches of opening area.

Your passive intake is close to being fine for a 4" exhaust, but I think that a 4" is going to choke your air flow down too much. A 6" or 8" would be much better.

 

[blazeoneup]

A 4" exhaust is 12.56 square inches of free air flow. A 3" duct is 7 sq in. Two 3" provides 14 sq in, which just over the size of the exhaust, not 50% over.
The math is: radius (distance from center of circle to outside of circle) x radius x pi(3.141) = square inches of opening area.

Your passive intake is close to being fine for a 4" exhaust, but I think that a 4" is going to choke your air flow down too much. A 6" or 8" would be much better.

Well, I will have to try it out as is right now considering I already installed the 3" ducts months ago during the build, and I dont wanna pull them and rerun them wit 4" unless I have too. So I'll test it out first, Thats good to know the math, If it dont work out, I can rerun the 2 3" pipes with 4" and run 6" for the exhaust, if this dont work out hopefully the 2 4" intakes and 6" exhaust will work. If not I cant really go any bigger I'll just have to get a portable or split unit.

Take it easy!!!

 

[Gold123]

Well, I will have to try it out as is right now considering I already installed the 3" ducts months ago during the build, and I dont wanna pull them and rerun them wit 4" unless I have too. So I'll test it out first, Thats good to know the math, If it dont work out, I can rerun the 2 3" pipes with 4" and run 6" for the exhaust, if this dont work out hopefully the 2 4" intakes and 6" exhaust will work. If not I cant really go any bigger I'll just have to get a portable or split unit.

Take it easy!!!

Add a stronger in line fan or add another one to enhance the flow, it could help overcome resistance.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Yes, I think you mentioned your fan was a very small one (lowcfm). Increasing the CFM can increase the air flow, at the expense of sound and energy.
If you were to increase the fan cfm at the 4" exit, it would help things to increase the passive intake volume, and to do that just add another duct into the box. Maybe a 4" instead of another 3"?
If you have a 3, you can do a 4. If you have a 4" you can do a 6". Shouldn't be anyting stopping you from improving what is there, rather than simply abandoning the thing.

 

[Danks2005]

Well the only lighting in my room is two 4' flourescent shoplights. Yesterday is was hot as hell, I'm guessing over 100degrees. This morning, it's like walking into a cooler. I think 2 or 3 400watters will be just fine.

If I air cool my lights through and through, even though the intake is in the 90's it will still help exhaust the manufactured heat correct? Putting less strain on the A/C.

Another question. For weeks I have been struggling to keep some plants alive in the heat, and while alive they look rough. If I put them in veg now for a few weeks or so (under ideal conditions) to get some clones, are they destined to hermi. Or, is it heat in flower only that brings out the stress related hermi's? I really wish I had waited to germ, as these were some expensive genetics. My buddy owed me money, which I was relying on to rebuild. But guess what, he never paid me.

 

[blazeoneup]

I done a preliminary test with the unit, I ran it for 4 hrs with no exhaust fan, It held up fine with no vortex fan, It was able to drop the room temp by 10f, I dont know how hot it was inside the box but the air coming out was pretty hot, Though it was still blowing cold air out of the unit and lowered the temps enough without any added fans, I wonder how long it needs to run to get some solid testing. How long will it take for the box to heat up the condenser enough for it to become less effecient.

I do know as well as it worked without the 4" vortex it should work perfectly fine with it, How long do you think I would have to run the unit to get it to bogg up if it's going to?

I kinda wanna see it bogg up so I know its not working effeciently, Hearing you it seems its not possible for it to work with the current ducting but it dropped my room temps by 10f, So my question is how long do you think I need to run it to get it to have problems. So I can get a clear view of how its not gonna work because currently I didnt even add a exhaust fan and it seemed to work perfectly fine.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

I kinda wanna see it bogg up so I know its not working effeciently, Hearing you it seems its not possible for it to work with the current ducting but it dropped my room temps by 10f, So my question is how long do you think I need to run it to get it to have problems. So I can get a clear view of how its not gonna work because currently I didnt even add a exhaust fan and it seemed to work perfectly fine.

See, you are slipping into jackass territory now. Don't ask me how long it will be before a shitty set-up will fail. It seems you doubt the worth of my words, and think maybe your way is just fine. Gonna show me too huh?

Look, here is what I know...you have choked the original air flow design down way too far when using a 4" exhaust, fan or no fan.
Your unit may well have worked for 4 hours, but that doesn't really mean squat. There is no way the unit is getting the coils cooled well enough, fast enough to be efficient. Which means that the unit will have to work harder the way it is now to do the work it was designed to do. It is being hampered by you and your set-up, but it will do it's best to accomplish the task anyway. And as a result of it having to work harder during it's life in your environment, it will not last near as long as my identical unit being used in a well designed environment where it is being given what it needs to work as designed.

I also know that you popped in here with critique of my thread, making claims that were false, and all because you never really read the damn thing to begin with.
Then you state your math works out, yet you don't even know the friggin math.
Then you come in almost as if trying to prove me wrong.
But of course it is me that needs to settle down and not get testy, right?

Best I see it...take the advise and have a good working unit like ALL of the people who have tried it, and did things half way correct, have done. Or be a bonehead and do things to suit yourself.

I see you have a line in your sig to PM you if they need help with anything. Well, the way I see it, your advise needs to be out in the open so it can be checked, like in an open forum such as this one...not fair for some kid or new grower to be getting dubious information from here without the approval of the community.
Know what I mean?

You have fun now.

 

[blazeoneup]

See, you are slipping into jackass territory now. Don't ask me how long it will be before a shitty set-up will fail. It seems you doubt the worth of my words, and think maybe your way is just fine. Gonna show me too huh?

Look, here is what I know...you have choked the original air flow design down way too far when using a 4" exhaust, fan or no fan.
Your unit may well have worked for 4 hours, but that doesn't really mean squat. There is no way the unit is getting the coils cooled well enough, fast enough to be efficient. Which means that the unit will have to work harder the way it is now to do the work it was designed to do. It is being hampered by you and your set-up, but it will do it's best to accomplish the task anyway. And as a result of it having to work harder during it's life in your environment, it will not last near as long as my identical unit being used in a well designed environment where it is being given what it needs to work as designed.

I also know that you popped in here with critique of my thread, making claims that were false, and all because you never really read the damn thing to begin with.
Then you state your math works out, yet you don't even know the friggin math.
Then you come in almost as if trying to prove me wrong.
But of course it is me that needs to settle down and not get testy, right?

Best I see it...take the advise and have a good working unit like ALL of the people who have tried it, and did things half way correct, have done. Or be a bonehead and do things to suit yourself.

I see you have a line in your sig to PM you if they need help with anything. Well, the way I see it, your advise needs to be out in the open so it can be checked, like in an open forum such as this one...not fair for some kid or new grower to be getting dubious information from here without the approval of the community.
Know what I mean?

You have fun now.

Blah Blah Blah Blah, How much more crap are you gonna spew.

My point is this obviously you have studied your ass off trying to post this thread and help the community now what you have done is stroked your own ego a little much and now your becoming a closed minded asshat...

Your thread, math and such work well for building a cheap ass box that will cool your unit with no extra fans etc, Problem is your so blind and stroked your own ego so much that anything done any other way aside from your own just isnt gonna work.

You need to learn about inline blowers, Cause obviously your very confused, You seem to think that unless you have the exact same square inches of opening as the unit came with standard according to the vents on your ac, its wrong and wont work. They didnt build this ac unit with the idea that a inline blower would be used to cool it or else the vents would be different.

Your blind because you say inline blower makes no difference blah blah blah and your dead wrong period point blank.

One works well under pressure and the other doesnt, Reason you need such a large opening to properly cool your unit is because your relying on a cheap ass box fan and some duct tape...

Hate having to state it like that but its the truth, Inline blowers work well under pressure and with restrictions, The fan in your ac doesnt. Your math works for the fan in the ac unit not an inline blower, Your homemade duct box is terribly large and oversized and that isnt something I prefer to have in my growspace. You seem offended that I didnt do what you done and say im joe blow my grow ability is questionable etc etc etc...

I tell you what take a 4" inline blower, and a boxfan, Reach your hand out and stop the blade on both units I bet you will understand how much different they are and how much better a inline works under pressure and restrictions. Lot more power and they can move adequate ammount of air through small spaces unlike a box fan or the fan in your ac unit. When you say fan or no fan doesnt matter blah blah to me its just that blah blah. You cannot state to me that a inline blower doesnt matter cause it sure as hell does....

Has my point sunk in yet? Or is that mind still stroked so hard your not able to understand what I am saying, Should I get all technical and break it down like your teacher would make a diagram for you or what?

Your statement about my information needs to be public crap is hilarious and your an asshat for trying to go there I have several threads posted on here, All of which are public,Your off your rocker for even saying what you said lmao.

I can grow and everyone who has followed my grows for the past 10 years knows it. Your thread is helpful to people and I dont wanna fill it with crapola, So enjoy your thread I wont be posting here again so your reply doesnt much matter, least not to me...

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Blah Blah Blah Blah, How much more crap are you gonna spew.

My point is this obviously you have studied your ass off trying to post this thread and help the community now what you have done is stroked your own ego a little much and now your becoming a closed minded asshat...

Your thread, math and such work well for building a cheap ass box that will cool your unit with no extra fans etc, Problem is your so blind and stroked your own ego so much that anything done any other way aside from your own just isnt gonna work.

You need to learn about inline blowers, Cause obviously your very confused, You seem to think that unless you have the exact same square inches of opening as the unit came with standard according to the vents on your ac, its wrong and wont work. They didnt build this ac unit with the idea that a inline blower would be used to cool it or else the vents would be different.

Your blind because you say inline blower makes no difference blah blah blah and your dead wrong period point blank.

One works well under pressure and the other doesnt, Reason you need such a large opening to properly cool your unit is because your relying on a cheap ass box fan and some duct tape...

Hate having to state it like that but its the truth, Inline blowers work well under pressure and with restrictions, The fan in your ac doesnt. Your math works for the fan in the ac unit not an inline blower, Your homemade duct box is terribly large and oversized and that isnt something I prefer to have in my growspace. You seem offended that I didnt do what you done and say im joe blow my grow ability is questionable etc etc etc...

I tell you what take a 4" inline blower, and a boxfan, Reach your hand out and stop the blade on both units I bet you will understand how much different they are and how much better a inline works under pressure and restrictions. Lot more power and they can move adequate ammount of air through small spaces unlike a box fan or the fan in your ac unit. When you say fan or no fan doesnt matter blah blah to me its just that blah blah. You cannot state to me that a inline blower doesnt matter cause it sure as hell does....

Has my point sunk in yet? Or is that mind still stroked so hard your not able to understand what I am saying, Should I get all technical and break it down like your teacher would make a diagram for you or what?

Your statement about my information needs to be public crap is hilarious and your an asshat for trying to go there I have several threads posted on here, All of which are public,Your off your rocker for even saying what you said lmao.

I can grow and everyone who has followed my grows for the past 10 years knows it. Your thread is helpful to people and I dont wanna fill it with crapola, So enjoy your thread I wont be posting here again so your reply doesnt much matter, least not to me...

Here is something else that I know for a fact...you don't have the slightest idea of what you are talking about.

It is best for you to simply go back and delete your last post, because it is proof positive that you have your head up your ass, both with ideas, and attitude. No better way to state it than you are all fucked up.

Now, you need to learn some shit before you try to come in a mans thread and discredit him simply because you don't know what the fuck you are on about.

Let's just step back....to the first sentence you posted in here.

Nice thread, Only thing is I dont see any mention of the condensation water produced by the window units, It can cause a problem over time if it's not taken into consideration.

I should have stopped you right there. You didn't read the thread...tant amount to lying.
And to critique things to boot.

No, dewd...you are all fucked up. And it seems you are the one with the ego problem. lol...take that up with your "grow followers"...lol...

Has my point sunk in yet?

Now that is rich! LOL....

 

[blazeoneup]

Ok I am gonna break my word and make one final post.

1. I never ment to insult you or stir any shit with my initial posting, I didnt see anything in the diagrams and didnt fully read you post so I posted I didnt see no mention and shared my box....

2. If what your saying is true once again, There would be no such thing as a portable ac unit, Now whether or not a portable is more or less effecient then a window unit I am not sure....

3. Here is a link to a portable unit notice all it has is 2 vents both of which are 4"...
http://www.thermospace.com/soleus/lx_140_exhaust.jpg

Is there something so different about the condenser and such inside this unit than the ones used in a window unit? I dont think so and obviously it works....

You started knocking me every since my initial post, trying your ass off to critique anything I say, So what you caught me doing some jacked math, Obviously a single 6" duct in diameter equals more space then 2 3" ducts its so obvious that you can insert 2 3" ducts inside a 6" duct and have lots of access space..

I didnt mean it in the way your making it out, I was merely making the point I am using 2 3" vents which is enough to substain a 4" blower, Because you made a lame assumption that I am using a 4" intake and 4" exhaust which I am not. Yeah I said 50% bigger and thats not accurate but it wasnt ment to be just a quick point that your wrong on my intake...

You state it doesnt work but all you can back up that claim with is I dont know when it will fail but its gonna. Or you expect me to tell you when your piss poor design will fail blah blah.

You cant because you dont know and you have no proof to back up your claim, So what do you do, You get mad and try to knock my skills as a grower, Which was very lame btw, and had absolutely nothing to do with this topic what so ever....

The fan in the ac unit cannot move enough air through the unit with the restrictions I have put on it with the 4" exhaust and 2 3" intakes but if you add in the boost from the inline blower its actually more then adequate and you will not be able to prove that wrong.

If you attempt to and actually do test this you will find out who is right and who is not.

A simple test to see what I mean would be to build a styrofoam box around the back of your ac unit and leave the vents on the side and top of the unit free, So air isnt restricted then cut a 4" hole in the box, turn the unit on and just hand test the air pressure coming out of the box, Now build another styrofoam box around the vents and cut 2 3" holes in it and then attach a 4" blower to the 4" vent on the back of the unit and I garuntee the pressure/air flow will be increased 3x or better. Why because the inline works better under static pressure far better then a fan in an air conditioner will and it will also do better under negative pressure.

Now how much total volume of air was lost in the initial test do to the contrants of the 4" vent the ac was pushing air out of vs how much volume of air was gained adding the inline blower and reducing the intake to 2 3" holes. I'm sure the fan inside the ac was somewhat boggled seeing its not the greatest with static pressure however I am certain the loss was less than the gain using the blower....

I just done this test myself and I am 100% accurate that it is much better flow using the blower, Now I know that the 4" exhaust on the back restricted the fan inside the ac from moving the same volume it would unrestricted but the blower more then makes up for this loss.

Now that isnt exactly precise but it will show you how much better the inline blower is at moving air through smaller openings, and it can move plenty enough air through the unit to cool it. It was able to put out much greater airflow using 2 3" intakes with a 4" exhaust then the ac fan was able to with 3 open vents for intake and a 4" hole for exhaust.

Yes it lost some of its output considering I restricted the exhaust a little by bogging it with a 4" exhaust hole. But the point is the fans are not created equal and a inline blower works far better and moves far more air through these small openings then the ac ever would. So much its probably greater flow then the ac unrestricted.

Your point that a inline blower makes no difference is false period.

Your point that the only way to push enough air through the unit is with the exact same square inch of air flow opening as the vents dictate regardless if your using a inline blower or not is also false...

So keep spreading the false information all you want your wrong and it took me 10 minutes of work to find that out. Why did I even test that, Because I am a right is right kinda guy and I dont want to be debating a topic if I am in the wrong.

The test is plenty enough proof for anyone and they can test it and verify it, I just finished doing so and the airflow difference was far greater then you would think.

I'll end this discussion with, try it for yourself and you will see what I mean, But of course your not gonna your just gonna spew some more crap! GL trying to come up with a counter argument or any proof that my test is innacurate or wrong, Simply put I done this verified it you can do the same and see with your own eyes the difference.

Oh and I did post that publicly in open forum so anyone can try this test with a 5200 btu ac with a 4" inline blower and see what I mean Im sure the same holds true for a 10k btu ac with a 8" inline blower or a 20k btu ac with a 16" inline blower if they make one...

 

[blazeoneup]

Sometimes I feel like I need to lay off the pipe. I completely forgot to add my condensate line. LOL Now I got a puddle, and some more work to do.

There is nothing in his diagram to indicate a drain line, So its easy to forget! Unless you remember everything you read....

That drain line should be in the diagrams IMO. But to each his own...

 

[Gold123]

There is nothing in his diagram to indicate a drain line, So its easy to forget! Unless you remember everything you read....

That drain line etc should be in the diagrams IMO....

Lay down and take a pill already!

 

[Lone Wolf]

One works well under pressure and the other doesnt, Reason you need such a large opening to properly cool your unit is because your relying on a cheap ass box fan and some duct tape...

Your homemade duct box is terribly large and oversized and that isnt something I prefer to have in my growspace

are you confusing ME with hoosier?

if so..

..my cheap ass box fan and my terribly large and oversized duct box is working PHENOMENALLY! the cheap ass box fan is the KEY if you ask me... also, the ac box is not interfering with my grow space one bit....as an aside, the water that is being expelled from the AC UNIT is simply collected in a rubbermaid bin which is then dumped on to my plants... yeah i can hook up an intricate hose that runs into some reservoir, but nah, thats too much unnecessary work.. maybe one day ill get into all that, but not now... too much other stuff to worry about...

so excuse me if you were not talking to me, but it seems as if you are talking to me, because i do not recall hoosierdaddy using a "cheap ass" box fan, nor do i recall his ac box being terribly oversized...

 

[hoosierdaddy]

He didn't read any of the thread, he only looked at the pictures. And I do show a box fan in a set-up similar to yours, LW.
He also seems to think that maybe I am not suggesting the use of any additional fans.

Your thread, math and such work well for building a cheap ass box that will cool your unit with no extra fans etc,

more evidence that it's all fucked up.

Look, blazeoneup...you have made a fool of yourself. Your test is for shit, really. Let's see how well your unit works like it is say...next summer, or perhaps the summer after that?
My 5200btu unit is working on it's third summer in my cab. And it puts out more and colder air than some dual hose portable. They suck ass, and that is why it has two 4" hoses on it. If they are so great, why aren't you still using it?

And I didn't throw rocks at your grow. What I did was bring to the front that it is YOU with the ego problem, thinking folks would want to PM you for advise. I would consider ALL of your info dubious from this point...and you have made it clear by showing your ass in here that you really don't know what the fuck you are talking about in this area, and I will have to doubt just about anything I see from you now.

But don't feel too lonely...there are quite a few folks who have taken up a campaign against me because they too wanted to challenge me on something they know jack shit about.
This sentence alone shows you don't know much about this issue:

So much its probably greater flow then the ac unrestricted.

See, you have it in your skull that my tutorial was about doing this with no additional fans, apparently. Again, something that you fucked up by not actually reading.

And it was YOU who disrespected ME by stating what wasn't being touched on in the thread, when it in fact was touched on. That was your first mistake.
And I bet you good money that you can't show us a picture of your drain line, because I highly doubt that unit has a drain line. It might have, but most units that size are evaporate units that do NOT have drains.

I realize that you have had your feeling hurt here...but that is what you get being such an asshole and acting like you know what you are talking about, when it is apparent you do not.

Don't get mad and go away...just go away.

 

[Eschertias]

It's all about the air temperature in-taking into the AC's hot side, and the mass flow rate of the air. If you don't have enough mass flow, your hot side gets too hot, and you end up melting the plastic blower wheel like I did on my 2 hose portable.

The rough formula I figured out for best possible thermal transfer values is
Degrees F rise in air temp = (BTUs Cooled * 0.0693)/(CFMs of air through the cabinet * 0.0807)

Example: My 24k BUT AC unit with a 6" vortex fan rated to 470 CFM will have an increase in exhaust temps by ~43 degrees. That makes my 80 degree room air now ~125 degree hot as shit air.

This will tell you exactly how much hotter the exhaust air would be from the cabinet assuming the AC's radiator was perfect, and air had perfect thermal conductivity. This means that this is the maximum the air will increase by, the rest of the heat remains trapped in the box, increasing the AC's cooling fin temperature until it reaches equilibrium thanks to the increased DeltaT between the fins and the moving air.


I'm building my AC box with 4 inches on both sides of the passive venting, 4 inches underneath, and 8-10 inches in back, cooled by a 6" or 8" vortex drawing air from outside the room, pulling it across the underside of the AC, then exhausting out the back top of the unit and into the attic. Based on my half-assed mass flow calculations, under full load my 24k BTU AC unit will increase the temperature of the air it's drawing by ~60 degrees F, assuming I end up getting 350 of my rating 470 CFMs out of the inline. Most people don't understand just how much airflow you can get in free air with those big flat fan discs.

And yes, I did remember to incline the box a little, and put a drip pan/drain in there so my box doesn't mold on me.

 

[LiLWaynE]

despite all of the bickering....

​

 

[blazeoneup]

You know I hate to have to break everything down to make my point, Forcing me to do math I done 7 months ago all over again... shame on you....

Here is the math broken down for you, Take it for what its worth!


1 ton ac = 12,000 btu ( Reccomended airflow per ton of cooling power to remove heat from the condenser and coils 350-450 cfm per ton)


According to my research, Yeah its been a while since I researched and done the math (done it when I was building the room and installed the actual intakes... like 8 months ago) I found that the reccomended CFM was 350-450 cfm per ton of cooling. If that's not accurate please do tell. Because it was the basis for my math which you say is (Fucked...)

12,000 btu = 1 ton 5200 btu = 800 btu short of 1/2 ton of cooling power, so we will just call it 1/2 ton ac even though its a little short.

Reccomended cfm 175-225 cfm per 1/2 ton of cooling power. Which in my case the ac is 800 btu short of the 1/2 ton mark.

So this means the 5200btu ac unit I have, has a fan with a rating somewhere in the area of 175 cfm and 225 cfm. With the smaller 4" vent for exhaust this will create static pressure which isn't ideal, and will hender the fans output, I couldnt be positive on how much the airflow would be restricted but from that test I recently done I'm estimating with the 4" exhaust and the 2 3" intakes with just the ac fan working is roughly 70-90 cfm so by restricting the vents to 2 3" intakes the fan inside the ac output was decreased by approximantly 50-60%...

Now if you add the 170 cfm inline blower, I can tell just from my test that the output was increased by around 70% maybe the poor fan is working overtime but it is still effectively brought the cfm output up to around 200-250 total cfm, That's with the 2 fans working together.

Now when I built my room I planned to add an ac box, When I did I figured i'd use a 5k btu ac for this box. So I looked up the reccomended cfm per 5k btu of cooling power, Which is when I found its reccomended 350-450 cfm per ton of cooling, I then figured 5k btu to require 175-225 cfm of airflow to properly cool it, Knowing this I figured... hmm whats the minimal ducting I can get away with, Where will I vent this hot air too, Then I figured hmm dryer vents 4" which would be perfect, What's the minimal intake I can get away with for a 4" exhaust, That's when I decided 2 3" intakes to be the minimum, for my 4" exhaust...

I then figured, hmm how well will the fan in the ac hold up with 2 3" intakes and a 4" exhaust, That's when I figured I'd probably lose 50%of the output from the fan just by restricting the ducts down to this size. What could I do to negate this problem, Cause obviously it will overheat if its not getting the proper 175-225 cfm of airflow reccomended for 1/2 ton of cooling power. Then I thought well if I add a 4" inline blower that should create a negative pressure which will negate the static pressure and boost the output back up to the appropriate 175-225 cfm.

So thats all the math I needed to know, Yeah larger ducts and fan would deffinantly help because the more airflow the cooler the unit stays, But according to the reccomended cfm per ton of cooling I only need 175-225 cfm of airflow to keep the condenser and such operational.

Which means 175-225 cfm airflow will cool a 1/2 ton ac as long as the air moving past the condenser and such reaches no higher then 110f. That would mean my intake air must be under the 110f mark which it's actually at 75f-80f max. So again this 5k btu operational temp is 64f to 110f as long as you have 175-225 cfm of airflow at a temp of 64f-110f it should properly cool the condenser, Obviously the lower the better of course.

If you cannot understand the basis for my math and you wanna just say I'm full of shit fine whatever, No sleep lost...

Have you actually looked into the cfm reccomended per 1 ton of cooling? Or you just standing firm on the you have to have the exact same square inches of opening as the vents dictate to get proper airflow?


The point being a 5k btu simply requires 175 - 225 cfm airflow to properly cool the condenser and coils.Doesnt much matter if its done by force with a inline blower or by building a box large enough and leaving the vents open to allow the fan in the ac unit to do the job. All that matters is you have 175 -225 cfm per 1/2 ton of cooling power to remove the heat produced by the condenser etc.

Unless my findings of 350-450 cfm per ton of cooling power is wrong, that would mean my math was and is fucked. I know for sure I looked it up then and I know that's what I found but maybe the source was wrong. If it was right and I think it was, my math is fine and your just trashing me for no good reason at all.

Oh and yes, You are right my unit is supposed to be the evaporative type and I can tell you now that it leaks period, and I dont wanna be opening the unit and sucking condensation water out. I have used this unit before and I can tell you it's evaporative, If you let the puddle it creates on your floor set long enough it will most deffinantly evaporate!

None the less I wont lose any sleep and my feelings are not hurt lol, If anything I got a few laughs from your remarks. To be honest I could care less if anyone pm's me, However I get pm's I guess from now on, I should refer them to the genius that is you...

Sizing of this ductwork is of the utmost importance. The internal AC unit fan is blowing air at X amount of CFM through a fixed port size. Any time we restrict the size of the originally intended air flow, we jeopardize the integrity of the unit.
The vents in the side and top of the AC cover have provided adequate opening for the proper amount of ambient air to enter the unit. And as long as you do not choke down the air flow path downstream from the fan, then the unit will function properly.

When you say it blows X ammount of cfm through the unit, You honestly have no clue what X is do you? The research I done says X = 350-450 cfm per ton of cooling power.

Now if I am wrong and you prove that I will gladly admit it, but honestly I think your the one who is wrong. I'm going to get a indoor outdoor thermometer and drill a hole into my box and drop the outdoor probe into the ac box and get a real time temperature reading and when I do I'll post that up.

Lonewolf

If I did confuse you and him, All I can say is my bad and sorry

 

[hoosierdaddy]

You don't really understand what you are talking about.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

...

 

[blazeoneup]

You don't really understand what you are talking about.

Your just stating your opinion. Obviously there is a industry standard on required cfm to cool a condenser and coil, You just need to look it up, How else would manufactures know how to size the intakes and fans to cool the units, You think they just guess and toss in some vents and any old fan? No they go by a standard said btu output said cfm fan required...

I'm still waiting for you to show me what it is that I have no clue about? You have stated I have no clue plenty of times now, But you have proved nothing....