What's new
  • ICMag with help from Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest in November! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

a wicked pulse

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
I'll be patient so long as you unveil, illuminate and enlighten before my next pop.
When I read your post last night I got a chuckle thinking back to about 15 years ago when some people were theorizing about draping plants with light-transmitting filament.

Did you used to make porn movies? I mean what is it with all this wicked pulsing and eccentric throbbing?

well, i was a star in the geriatric porn industry before the market softened and dried up. that was right before it died.
 
well, i was a star in the geriatric porn industry before the market softened and dried up. that was right before it died.

The following DVDs were recently the subject of an Adult Protective Services investigation:

Cock-oon
Driving Miss Daisy
Humpy Old Men
Own Golden Pond
I Want A Gal Just Like The Gal That Married Dear Old Dad

(don't worry, your ski mask did the job)
 
Hey D9... A couple of questions for you...

Are you still using Jacks Professional nutes? I would like to use the same formula for veg and bloom, if I remember correctly you do this as well... Do you still use 1/.67 Jacks/Cacinit?

I am using Botanicare Cocogro and tap water, if that makes a difference...

Also, since I grow in a tent that is 6.5' tall I need a lower profile ppk, I was thinking of cutting down the bottom bucket, using a 4-5" coco filled tailpipe with approx an inch of air gap... My bottom res would be smaller but it would be attached to a control bucket to regulate the nutrient level as well...Does anything sound like it won't work?
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Hey D9... A couple of questions for you...

Are you still using Jacks Professional nutes? I would like to use the same formula for veg and bloom, if I remember correctly you do this as well... Do you still use 1/.67 Jacks/Cacinit?

I am using Botanicare Cocogro and tap water, if that makes a difference...

Also, since I grow in a tent that is 6.5' tall I need a lower profile ppk, I was thinking of cutting down the bottom bucket, using a 4-5" coco filled tailpipe with approx an inch of air gap... My bottom res would be smaller but it would be attached to a control bucket to regulate the nutrient level as well...Does anything sound like it won't work?

hey! yep, i'm still using it at the .666 ratio.

the jack's ratio is formulated for distilled or ro water. i'm currently using it at that ratio with 110 ppm at .5 tap water. no problems for me but you may not be so lucky if your water reads much higher than that.

when i used coco in these i would pour a heavy dose of nutes through the medium one time. over 2000 ppm or ec 4. i did it immediately after a heavy rinse with the coco still wet.

i got none of the ion exchange issues that coco growers report.

an inch of air gap is not enough. the height of the perched water table in coco is probably right around 1.75-2".

you need a minimum of 3" and 4" would be better.

again, the best containers i've seen for limited headroom are the 3 gal rubbermaid totes. using 2 of them stacked you can have a total height to top of medium of only 11-12". that would leave you 5.5 ft for plant. dark blue or black will block light.
 
hey! yep, i'm still using it at the .666 ratio.

the jack's ratio is formulated for distilled or ro water. i'm currently using it at that ratio with 110 ppm at .5 tap water. no problems for me but you may not be so lucky if your water reads much higher than that.

when i used coco in these i would pour a heavy dose of nutes through the medium one time. over 2000 ppm or ec 4. i did it immediately after a heavy rinse with the coco still wet.

i got none of the ion exchange issues that coco growers report.

an inch of air gap is not enough. the height of the perched water table in coco is probably right around 1.75-2".

you need a minimum of 3" and 4" would be better.

again, the best containers i've seen for limited headroom are the 3 gal rubbermaid totes. using 2 of them stacked you can have a total height to top of medium of only 11-12". that would leave you 5.5 ft for plant. dark blue or black will block light.

Those containers sound promising, what do think about the grows that Darth_Fader did using a 5 gallon bucket with a cut down bucket as a spacer with a smart pot using micro fiber wicks? I found this after posting...https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=152771
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
Those containers sound promising, what do think about the grows that Darth_Fader did using a 5 gallon bucket with a cut down bucket as a spacer with a smart pot using micro fiber wicks? I found this after posting...https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=152771

darth's set up worked well but you will get a better yield with a pulsed ppk. there are a lot of ways to grow weed. there are no bad ways to do it. as long as you get a harvest and are happy with it you are cool.
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
thought those pictures looked familiar....mine is like 10pgs/ in case anyone else is interested Iĺl try this instead

https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&...WrN4dT&sig=AHIEtbRU4J6qjvBz94XqPTmqPOGsB5tT7A


My rotating parabolic reflector/light chopper will be powered by the wind, to produce very short bright flashes less than a second long, and it also trims any leaves that get too close :) Plants will never know what hit them....

i got it and saved it, thanks! i'll read it later.

the plants sense of "speed" is slower than ours. google "photosynthetic response curve lag".

do you have any info on the "very short, bright flashes"?
 
Thanks D9!

I have all the pieces to make a setup like darths and I feel more comfortable with the bottom feeding, the pulse is awesome but I feel a lot more comfortable bottom feeding to start... I am only growing for my personal stash. That's not saying I won't upgrade to pulse later... I already am using a 16 gallon Rubbermaid tote to hold my nutes right now, so I can use tire valves to hook it all together... I can get some of those at work... Lol

Thanks you!
 

mcfly420

Active member
In experiments with alternate light, it should be noted that similar results were obtained with light flashes of 1200 and 350 µE m−2 s−1, indicating that the intensity of the light pulses does not have much influence. The data also show that frequency per se is not the major parameter determining light influence. On the contrary, the conditions with the highest growth (1200 µE m−2 s−1 - 10 Hz and 350 µE m−2 s−1- 30 Hz) have in common the same length of the illumination phase, which thus appears to have the largest influence on biomass productivity among the parameters considered here.
The optimal duration of light pulses was found to be around 10 ms, which is consistent with the suggested PSII turnover rate in whole cells. Accordingly, after photon absorption by the photosystem, 1–15 ms are needed to reset the system, before it is ready to receive another photon. If the illumination is this short, most photons are exploited for photosynthesis and do not lead to the formation of ROS which then causes photoinhibition. These results indicate that even strong light does not cause damage if it only lasts a short time. Conversely, longer exposure allows the generation of ROS and damage and, in this case, the abrupt changes in illumination undergone by the cells are as harmful to the photosynthetic apparatus as constant high light.
A further observation is that a peculiar acclimation response is activated under pulsed light conditions. This response does not depend to any great extent on the frequency or duration of light pulses, since similar pigment contents were observed in cells growing well and in others (1200- 1 and 1200-5 Hz), and also in ones showing light inhibition, with the only exception of the 350-10 Hz level. These results indicate a particular type of acclimation response in pulsed light conditions, which does not depend on the stress perceived by the cells, nor on the total amount of light absorbed. However, this deserves further investigation.

Fv/Fm is a useful parameter to evaluate photosynthetic efficiency in algae and plants and, in particular, to highlight photoinhibition due to excess illumination. Fv/Fm was monitored in all cultures and cells grown at different levels of continuous light up to 150 µE m−2 s−1, and all showed similar Fv/Fm values, around 0.62±0.02. Over this limit, reduced Fv/Fm was correlated with increase of light intensity, indicating that the cells were undergoing photoinhibition
Dependence of photosynthetic efficiency (Fv/Fm) on illumination conditions.
In pulsed light experiments, Fv/Fm was in the optimal range in both cases when growth was good, 1200 - 10 Hz and 350 - 30 Hz. Instead, in all cases with impaired growth, a reduction in Fv/Fm was also observed, indicating that the cells also underwent photoinhibition, although they were exposed to a low total amount of photons. responds to different light conditions by modulating the composition of its photosynthetic apparatus, a response called acclimation. One regulation commonly observed in photosynthetic organisms exposed to various light intensities is alteration of chlorophyll (Chl) content per cell and the carotenoid (car)/Chl ratio. Under excess illumination, Chl content decreases to reduce light harvesting efficiency, and carotenoids, active in protecting against oxidative stress, are accumulated. As shown in Figure 4, continuous strong light reduces Chl content per cell and increases that of carotenoids.
Acclimation response in cells grown in continous vs. pulsed light. Instead, clear-cut differences in the light response were observed in cells under pulsed light, which did not accumulate large amounts of carotenoids or even increase their Chl content per cell. The cells thus showed a peculiar response with respect to those exposed to the same total amount of light but provided continuously.
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3380057/

should be able to figure out the flash interval using 60hz (16ms) power
 

delta9nxs

No Jive Productions
Veteran
very nice! have you got the whole paper or a link to it? also, in the future could you possibly put things that have been cut in quotes. it makes it easier for me.

thank you!

since intensity is not important perhaps led's, with their instant on/off capability, would be better suited.
 

mcfly420

Active member
sorry about that, kind of scatter brained right now. and theres bits of info spread everywhere so its difficult to summarize what may be useful to us. In my situation (with no added c02) it seems like I can use the same amount of total light, but expose them to 1:1 bright/dim cycles where the intensity is higher. Despite this they should use MORE? of that energy -because of how the plant is currently acclimated. also c3 plants seem to saturate fairly quickly and that acclimation chapter talks about how the light intensity signal can be transferred throughout. curious what will happen if the pulses are fast enough...anyways hope your flowers are huge :)

edit
there is no penetration with indoor lighting. with a par meter i get 1500 umols at approx 12 inches from the glass of a cool tube. in free air with no obstructions just 2" further away at 14" reduces the reading to 1200 umols.

behind a single leaf at the same 14" distance gets 250 umols. i think this is right on the threshold of the amount of light necessary to drive photosynthesis adequately enough to turn a plant part into a producer.
this still suprises me....Although I do tend to have the plants farther back (8-10inches from a 400) to prevent multiple layers of leaf/bud
 
Top