I am working on a build and am trying to figure out the details. I am going to run 4k in flower. I also wanted a 600 for veg in a separate room. My question is can I run my 4 light controller and another outlet for the 600 on the same circuit 220v. I was planning for a 35 amp double pole 220 with 8 gauge wire it's about 80 ft to the shed so trying to account for voltage drop.
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A quick question for the sparky's
- Thread starter packerfan79
- Start date
im reading your post and i cant find what your problem is?
u want to run 4k+600 watts? it seems u know a bit about electrical so im just puzzled as to why u dont just add the two loads together and calculate the amps?
maby im misunderstanding.
u want to run 4k+600 watts? it seems u know a bit about electrical so im just puzzled as to why u dont just add the two loads together and calculate the amps?
maby im misunderstanding.
mule420
Member
https://www.icmag.com/modules/Tutorials/ElectricalSafety/1655.htm
No you need 6 to be safe your 2 amps over and probably over 80% of the breaker. I'm Stoned and math percentages right now no... Plus all the other loads your not adding up fans,pumps, phone chargers... So a big NO.
No you need 6 to be safe your 2 amps over and probably over 80% of the breaker. I'm Stoned and math percentages right now no... Plus all the other loads your not adding up fans,pumps, phone chargers... So a big NO.
most ballasts run 4.5 to 5 amps on 220 volts , your 4k watts will eat up 20 amps & another 600 will only add another 5 amps , so you should be safe . but check the amperage out puts on your ballasts to be completely sure .
my Galaxy's run 5 amps at peek .
this circuit will only be for lights right ? because you will overload if start running fans & pumps on that line too .
if your going to be running everything on it , i suggest running a 50 or 60 amp subpanel out there & run all your 220 & 110 lines from that .
my Galaxy's run 5 amps at peek .
this circuit will only be for lights right ? because you will overload if start running fans & pumps on that line too .
if your going to be running everything on it , i suggest running a 50 or 60 amp subpanel out there & run all your 220 & 110 lines from that .
I always run a dedicated 220v for my lighting, I have yet to see a 220v fan or blower. I have a 20 amp 110v circuit for the 110v stuff like fans and stuff.
I am mainly concerned about the multiple 220v recepticles on one circuit. I know enough to run a few circuits and stuff but that is about where that ends. I second guess myself.
but you know the math correct? i mean... you are way below a 40 amp breaker here.
or are you want to run 220v and 110v on the same breaker? is that what you are asking?
if the latter is the case you will need to put in a sub panel... basically another breaker panel thats fed by a big fat breaker inside your main breaker panel.
hell you should probably put in a sub panel anyway. i mean just running a single branch circuit seems pointless when the cost to get a panel and slightly larger gauge wire is negligible.
I thought about doing a sub panel but I would rather not. I added up the amps it comes out to just under 23 amps, not sure of the voltage drop probably add 10% for that. I am probably over thinking it. I just want to hurry up and get power so I can insulate, and start the roomost design and construction.
Thanks Dansbuds, I have an electrician but he's fond of cutting corners, and it always winds up costing me more money in the end.
mule420
Member
I'm sure you realize that running amps and start up amps are different right? Your wire choice can carry 32 amps @ 100 ft your breaker is a 35 amp breaker and your running load is 24 amps all very close to the maximum of all parts of the code. Like I said cooling 4600 watts ain't going to happen on its own, your going to be pulling more juice from some place... Good luck.
I will say it again. I have a 20 amp 110v circuit there now. We are talking about a dedicated 220v circuit for lighting. I have always kept my lights on a dedicated 220v circuit. I have never seen a 220v fan, blower etc...
mule420
Member
Some times sparky's cheat and split the 220 legs into 110 circuits, after all when we wire a sub panel we divide the 220 up into 2 120 sides... All sorts of cooling equipment runs 220 we use it to reduce the amperage instead of double the amps of 110, my 36,000 btu mini split is 220. Bigger can and vortex fans, dehumidifiers, chillers are 220. The stuff is out there just saying... Good luck
I don't know where you found a 35a double-pole breaker if you are in the U.S. - they normally jump from 30 to 40.
A continuous load, defined as anything over 3 hours in duration, is limited to 80% of the breaker rating.
The receptacles, cordsets, etc. all have to match or exceed the rating of the breaker that is feeding them, so if you are feeding them with 35a and there is no further protection downstream, then all of the receptacles and other equipment will need to be rated for at least that much amperage. This will require VERY expensive and hard to source equipment (range plugs, etc.).
A continuous load, defined as anything over 3 hours in duration, is limited to 80% of the breaker rating.
The receptacles, cordsets, etc. all have to match or exceed the rating of the breaker that is feeding them, so if you are feeding them with 35a and there is no further protection downstream, then all of the receptacles and other equipment will need to be rated for at least that much amperage. This will require VERY expensive and hard to source equipment (range plugs, etc.).
Rives, I have been waiting for you to chime in. How would you suggest I do it . Just run a sub panel? I have a total of about 23 amps of lighting and about 100 ft from the breaker box. I have a 20 amp circuit at the other shed I was going to run my 110v off of that. Can I run 220v from a subpanel. I found a bunch of 35 amp double pole breakers on amazon. My main concern is can I run hard wire my 4 light controller and have a 220v outlet for the 600 veg light on the same circuit. Thanks Rives
Rives is the man!
I'd say your doing very well, non electrician myself but have wired many grow rooms and am getting way safer about it, lol.
I think what rives means is that if you just run outlets of a 30amp 240 split into 120, you would be capable of loading 30amps of 120 to a single side before it blew the fuse, so if your plugs are cheapie 15amp plastic they will melt and cause you issues....
The safes way would be to get a 4-8 slot sub box. These are small and have no breaker in, unlike a full panel, and will hold a 25-30a 240 breaker for your flower lights, a 10-15 amp 240 for your veg lights and still safely and cheaply wire in a few plugs on dedicated and breaker'd 120v circuits... If you balance the 120's you will still have a few amps of each side of the 240 in....
But yeah if it was me I'd get one of those small boxes and pull it from the existing line in. Still be way safer and more convenient to use the small sub box from that for you outlets.
The big line in would be best dedicated to just lights, and is easily and safely split for the ballast outlets. A lot of the pre fab boards run the full load through the timer. It's a bit different but I think using a on off contacter and a cheaper timer is safer.
Good luck.
I'd say your doing very well, non electrician myself but have wired many grow rooms and am getting way safer about it, lol.
I think what rives means is that if you just run outlets of a 30amp 240 split into 120, you would be capable of loading 30amps of 120 to a single side before it blew the fuse, so if your plugs are cheapie 15amp plastic they will melt and cause you issues....
The safes way would be to get a 4-8 slot sub box. These are small and have no breaker in, unlike a full panel, and will hold a 25-30a 240 breaker for your flower lights, a 10-15 amp 240 for your veg lights and still safely and cheaply wire in a few plugs on dedicated and breaker'd 120v circuits... If you balance the 120's you will still have a few amps of each side of the 240 in....
But yeah if it was me I'd get one of those small boxes and pull it from the existing line in. Still be way safer and more convenient to use the small sub box from that for you outlets.
The big line in would be best dedicated to just lights, and is easily and safely split for the ballast outlets. A lot of the pre fab boards run the full load through the timer. It's a bit different but I think using a on off contacter and a cheaper timer is safer.
Good luck.
If you ever need any information from me, either shoot me a pm to give me a heads-up, or do the same in the "Growroom Electricity & Wiring" thread. I usually check it a couple of times a day, and sometimes don't check the sub-forum for extended periods.
A sub-panel would give you the best protection and would be my choice. It can break the larger feed down to 15 or 20a circuits and allow you to use standard receptacles and cordsets, and the receptacles could be fed directly out of the sub. I don't know the particulars of your light controller, but most of them don't meet code because they don't have any protection built into them to break the larger circuit down. It's possible that you could drive a sub panel with your controller, but it would probably require getting into it and running larger wire from the power relay to the sub-panel lugs and doing away with whatever wiring they have going to their on-board receptacles.
You can pick up a small sub at the big box stores for about $20 or so, and then add whatever breakers are necessary. Be careful in your selection, some of them have restrictions on double-pole breaker placement because of the buss arrangement and you might not be able to fit in as many as you want/need.
If you have 23a total load, then you will need at least a 30a feed to stay within the 80% rule. For a one-way wire length of 100' and using #8 wire, your voltage drop would be right at 1.5%, which is fine.
Thanks Rives, your the man.
The controller is a titan 4 light controller. My ballast run a circuit check when they power up, so I assume I should be fairly safe.
They are only safe as long as they are functioning correctly and the connections from there back to the breaker are healthy. You don't need ANY protection as long as everything is working correctly....
