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A perfect cure every time

Side note. This thread is one of those classic threads that really dives deep into the detail of one particular aspect of growing. I love these types of threads, and you don't see them often.

Also, these more rare threads always have a champion. Someone who has really studied the system and shares and is patient with replies.

Thanks for being that someone, Simon.

precisely what he said :yappy:
 

Chem&M

Member
Just wanted to chime in and thank Simon for this. Just got some and they help a ton!! I really appreciate it.
 
Thanks for the great info, i'm going to use this with my first grow of purple kush which is looking sweet. When you say
" Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap"

Do you mean cut it at the base of the plant and then trim it? also, when you say don't dry it, what do you do with it after you cut it down but don't dry it?

Also, when you say "take it down while the stems still have some flex" do you mean take it down from hanging it like i've seen in pics, hanging from a coat hanger or something similiar?

Sorry if these are rookie questions, this is my first grow ever and they came out great, I just don't want to screw up the last part.

Do you trip it up after it's dried and cured or as you say, cut it and trim, meaning trim it right after you cut it down?

Thanks!!
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
Thanks for the great info, i'm going to use this with my first grow of purple kush which is looking sweet. When you say
" Cut the product, trim it per your preference, but don't dry it until the stems snap"

Do you mean cut it at the base of the plant and then trim it? also, when you say don't dry it, what do you do with it after you cut it down but don't dry it?

I mean, trim and cut whichever way you prefer, then let the product dry.

Also, when you say "take it down while the stems still have some flex" do you mean take it down from hanging it like i've seen in pics, hanging from a coat hanger or something similiar?

Remove the product from the dying space, whether the flowers are a hanging on a rack, or laying down on a screen, etc. FWIW, I use standing towel racks from Bed, Bath and Beyond.

Sorry if these are rookie questions, this is my first grow ever and they came out great, I just don't want to screw up the last part.

No problem. Congratulations on the harvest!

Do you trip it up after it's dried and cured or as you say, cut it and trim, meaning trim it right after you cut it down?

Having tried trimming dry once, I always trim immediately after it's cut down.

Simon
 

Chem&M

Member
My jars have been sitting for about 24 hours. Temp and RH are stable at 72 F and 61%. I bought about 3 more of these last night. Killer Simon!!
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
Once 55% is achieved and sustained over a few days, are there ant thoughts about pulling a vacuum on these mason jars? O2 removal should prolong the bud, reduce decomposition I've read.

I have a little device that gives a partial vacuum and seals mason jars.

:thank you:
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
Once 55% is achieved and sustained over a few days, are there ant thoughts about pulling a vacuum on these mason jars? O2 removal should prolong the bud, reduce decomposition I've read.

I have a little device that gives a partial vacuum and seals mason jars.

:thank you:

I take it, you'll be storing the product longterm? If you are, let it sit for a week or so. I may have told the story of my very first cure, when I dried all the product, measured an in-range RH, and promptly packed it away. A month later, when I opened a jar, the flowers felt wet.

Air does serve a function during the curing process, so removing it all isn't great. I have a vacuum sealer, as well, and a Pump and Seal for smaller jars. To be honest, I never really noticed a difference between the product in the smaller jars (some air sucked out) and the .5-1gal jars I typically store in (the entire container vacuum sealed).

Simon
 

flatcurve

Member
It's a personality flaw; I'm one of those extremely annoying people who always questions the established way of doing things.

When I stared out, the typically recommend curing methods seemed ambiguous. I did my usual, methodically obsessive searching and came across a mention of RH. Then I read a bunch about curing in general, especially the research into tobacco curing, and began noting the correlations between quality and RH. To make a long story short, here we are.

Simon

This was exactly the problem that I was having when I started out. So many aspects of growing this plant have been thoroughly documented down to the very last detail, that it seems careless that the best advice available for handling the finished product was "Dry it until the stem snaps, then put it in jars for like a week or so, opening it once a day."

I eventually found a method I liked, but never really applied numbers and science to it like you have. I'm going to use your method on my next harvest (six weeks away) to see if I like it. I think I'm jarring mine too early, because I need to burp the jars a lot. I get a good product, but that comes with a lot of maintenance.

As far as this particular digital hygrometer is concerned, this is definitely one of the best. I used to grow mushrooms, and these little guys were all I ever used when checking RH. Most hygrometers are wildly inaccurate at low and high RH. Mushroom environments need to be 95%-100% RH. This one actually does a very good job in the upper ranges. I wouldn't use anything else. Very good choice!
 

rrog

Active member
Veteran
I take it, you'll be storing the product longterm?

Yes. I have a pump and seal system for jars that works quite well.

After the bud reaches the 55% and under range, I'll let the bud sit in the jars for a week before storing. Thanks for that.

Air does serve a function during the curing process, so removing it all isn't great.

I'll be removing much, but obviously not all. I have no problem letting this current batch continue to slow cure as the moisture slowly drops to below 55%. Maybe a couple more weeks of that. It's S-L-O-W drying right now. Maybe a couple of points a day. I assume slow and cool (55F) is OK rate of RH drop.

Then once at that level, I can maintain in O2 environment for a week or so, and then after all of that time (a month or so) then pull a vac on it.

Sound good? Thanks again for the time you spend with us all.
 

Hazy Lady

Prom Night Dumpster Baby
ICMag Donor
Veteran
More Cheap Hygrometers

More Cheap Hygrometers

It's a personality flaw; I'm one of those extremely annoying people who always questions the established way of doing things.

When I stared out, the typically recommend curing methods seemed ambiguous. I did my usual, methodically obsessive searching and came across a mention of RH. Then I read a bunch about curing in general, especially the research into tobacco curing, and began noting the correlations between quality and RH. To make a long story short, here we are.

Simon

Wonderful thread Simon, thank-you for sharing your hard work and findings, I do hope you won't mind? I see a few growers on budgets who would like multiple Hygrometers but @ $20 each can't do this, so wanted to post the little ones I use, they cost less than $20 for 4 (including shipping) and will fit in the smallest of jars. Of course they can't be expected to perform as the better ones but for less than $2 each they are an option. They are from Ebay, I will find the link in a sec and post, but here is a pic of some..........
Edit.. they are 100% accurate, I meant of course they won't last forever, or have features of Simon's but still a very good option.
Edit the link.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...817062&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_3633wt_939
IMG_1349.JPG
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
I just ordered a couple of the small Ebay hygrometers mentioned above, and will report back once they get here.

Simon
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
I have no problem letting this current batch continue to slow cure as the moisture slowly drops to below 55%. Maybe a couple more weeks of that. It's S-L-O-W drying right now. Maybe a couple of points a day. I assume slow and cool (55F) is OK rate of RH drop.

You don't want to see the RH stabilize lower than 55%, as it effectively stops the curing process. If your jar is stable at 55% for a week, you can safely put it away longterm. The Pump and Seal won't remove all of the air, so depending on the size of the jar and the quantity of product, there's likely enough air remaining to maintain the cure. If not in a hurry, I usually pack away the product after about 3-4 weeks. Interestingly, after I unpack a container from lonterm storage, the flowers almost always smells better after about a week.

Simon
 

Mr_Ed

Member
Great post Simon!

I have not been on ICMag in a while and came back for a little reading; I have not been happy with my last two cures and was looking for a post just like this. I love something with numbers that can be measured to help guarantee consistency. I just started flush and will be chopping soon and now I have no fears of a proper cure.

K+ and Thanks!
 

Emmie

Member
Simon thanks for the useful Info :respect:

what if we are talkin' about a bigger scale? If i have more than 50 plants and each one gives me at least "minimum" 50 Grams then it will not be cost effective no more LOL i would appreciate your input :good:
 

simon

Weedomus Maximus
Veteran
what if we are talkin' about a bigger scale? If i have more than 50 plants and each one gives me at least "minimum" 50 Grams then it will not be cost effective no more LOL i would appreciate your input :good:

So, we're talking about ~5lbs, perhaps a bit more. Not a problem. It's a matter of choosing a workable container. Amazon, for example, has very nice airtight, glass jars ranging from 1.5-2.5 gallons. 3x2.5gal jars should handle your harvest. There's also a benefit to using the larger containers, as they allow for a bigger margin of error. It's more difficult to overdry the product.

http://www.amazon.com/Anchor-Hocking-Montana-2-Gallon-Metal/dp/B000SOS60Y/ref=pd_sim_k_1

Simon
 

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