VerticalVerde
Active member
Been too long, again. Going to dump some pics from week 2-3, then get some more today. I've watered twice so far since flipping. Eight days apart. Can see the dates in the pic names. Also in my little seedmaking set-up can see a cleft graft of the (gg4 x chem d) onto my nl5 male, and the top of that weird giesel fallen soldier onto a Steve Murphy's Purest Indica. It only looks unhappy bc I (finally) identified its rootstock as male and stripped all of its foliage at once. Expect it to recover fine. Some of the newest shots are when I was in the middle of thinning. Will probably thin again in 2 weeks. 20240326 is a pic of the Super Skunk 1, and 20240326_2 is the diesel cross. The best yielder so far is looking like Super Skunk 2--which was the smallest plant put in. This may be bc it is the best size for the light/light position, idk. Will be interesting to see how it shakes out and whether the bigger plants more than make up for it. Will get some nice shots today. Want to water again and then only check on the thermometer for a week to simulate going on vacation with this system. No extra automation just big pots and a mulch layer.
Wanted to also recap to this point--as well as go over stuff I left out: 1) if you defoliate fan leaves the plant will turn branches into tops/sync up internodes. 2) If you're increasing the container size at the right time with even okay soil you will hardly--if ever need to feed. I fed these once before up-potting to 1 and 2 gal containers, and then once while in 6 gal with quarter strength GH veg powder. I watered the plants only 6 times after they were transplanted to 6 gal containers. 3) I put water in a concrete mixing tray to bottom water the 6 gal, then I would (often) use an electric sprayer to hand water the top. 4) you can run a straight water reservoir with flood table and potting soil, for months with no PHing or anything, just feed from the top (and I would put perlite on the bottom of the pots bc my system is messy, I'm just lazy lol). 5) whenever I am handwatering to even out various containers in the flood tables I do something similar to "3)", which I think of as simulating a PPK watering. You use a bottom container with water covering any holes on the pot, then spray the top for several seconds to flood it this allows gas exchange and for water to really penetrate the hydrophobic, dried out peat/coir, instead of finding the easiest path and running through the whole pot. Figuring out when to water and how much is so important.
Recapping, these plants were started in paper towels and put in 3.5 in square pots beginning of December, then 1-2 gal containers, 6 gal, and finally 4 of 6 made it to 27 gal totes around a 1kW hortilux. The light setup costs around $200 these days if you're thrifty (and maybe okay with mag ballasts). The flower room I built was with 10x 2"x4"s ($40ish), a 4"x4" I had laying around, and most of a 50ft roll of panda film. Two tower fans for under $50 total, and a second 6in fan (had one already) exhausting the room was the only other biggish expense at $85 (with a speed controller) and $40 for ducting. Had the carbon filter already though. Yesterday was 3 weeks of flower and they haven't needed a third watering yet. Bud pics to come. Appreciate so many people looking at this thread. Will be sure to stick with it until final weights and what not. As always, any questions feel free to ask.
Wanted to also recap to this point--as well as go over stuff I left out: 1) if you defoliate fan leaves the plant will turn branches into tops/sync up internodes. 2) If you're increasing the container size at the right time with even okay soil you will hardly--if ever need to feed. I fed these once before up-potting to 1 and 2 gal containers, and then once while in 6 gal with quarter strength GH veg powder. I watered the plants only 6 times after they were transplanted to 6 gal containers. 3) I put water in a concrete mixing tray to bottom water the 6 gal, then I would (often) use an electric sprayer to hand water the top. 4) you can run a straight water reservoir with flood table and potting soil, for months with no PHing or anything, just feed from the top (and I would put perlite on the bottom of the pots bc my system is messy, I'm just lazy lol). 5) whenever I am handwatering to even out various containers in the flood tables I do something similar to "3)", which I think of as simulating a PPK watering. You use a bottom container with water covering any holes on the pot, then spray the top for several seconds to flood it this allows gas exchange and for water to really penetrate the hydrophobic, dried out peat/coir, instead of finding the easiest path and running through the whole pot. Figuring out when to water and how much is so important.
Recapping, these plants were started in paper towels and put in 3.5 in square pots beginning of December, then 1-2 gal containers, 6 gal, and finally 4 of 6 made it to 27 gal totes around a 1kW hortilux. The light setup costs around $200 these days if you're thrifty (and maybe okay with mag ballasts). The flower room I built was with 10x 2"x4"s ($40ish), a 4"x4" I had laying around, and most of a 50ft roll of panda film. Two tower fans for under $50 total, and a second 6in fan (had one already) exhausting the room was the only other biggish expense at $85 (with a speed controller) and $40 for ducting. Had the carbon filter already though. Yesterday was 3 weeks of flower and they haven't needed a third watering yet. Bud pics to come. Appreciate so many people looking at this thread. Will be sure to stick with it until final weights and what not. As always, any questions feel free to ask.
