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VerticalVerde

Active member
Starting a thread to document this grow and hopefully partially revive vert. Will only be updating once every week or two. Have to build the flower room still (5'x5'x6'6"). These 6 plants will be going around a 1kW HPS when they're ~16" tall. The random cross was an s1 bagseed, and the rest are white label (best guess ILGM?) Super Skunk that were gifted years ago. Bagseed is ~2 weeks behind. Plants are 6" to 10" right now. Will be training them around a 3 ft diameter circle of fencing (Probably 3 ft high). Vegging under a 432 W HO T5 setup (8x 4ft bulbs). Was doing 16/8 which was plenty of light, but they were getting cold at night so went to 24/0. Lots of air movement to build strength, and beginning to prune to set them up for the VScroG. Veg set-up is an ebb and flow 2'x4' flood table with a ~25gal reservoir (150gph bubbler, 396gph submersible pump), running regular potting soil, topped with partly finished compost when the last transplant was done. Fed a half strength GH Veg powder once, 3 days before up-potting. #5 was initially transplanted into more compost to see if said compost was finished, but quickly was put in the same set-up as everyone else (hence the slight yellowing, rebounding though). Do some foliar spray (just water) with a battery powered sprayer, handfeed from the top of the pots, water from the bottom (pump is on a switch, but no timer--at least at the moment). Potting soil is just regular Miracle Gro. I don't pH the res or anything, just keep the reservoir bubbling, in the dark, and constantly topped off. Have done this for two years with regular garden starts in two flood trays and haven't had a problem. Seating is a bucket--as is the custom.
 

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Creeperpark

Well-known member
Mentor
Veteran
Starting a thread to document this grow and hopefully partially revive vert. Will only be updating once every week or two. Have to build the flower room still (5'x5'x6'6"). These 6 plants will be going around a 1kW HPS when they're ~16" tall. The random cross was an s1 bagseed, and the rest are white label (best guess ILGM?) Super Skunk that were gifted years ago. Bagseed is ~2 weeks behind. Plants are 6" to 10" right now. Will be training them around a 3 ft diameter circle of fencing (Probably 3 ft high). Vegging under a 432 W HO T5 setup (8x 4ft bulbs). Was doing 16/8 which was plenty of light, but they were getting cold at night so went to 24/0. Lots of air movement to build strength, and beginning to prune to set them up for the VScroG. Veg set-up is an ebb and flow 2'x4' flood table with a ~25gal reservoir (150gph bubbler, 396gph submersible pump), running regular potting soil, topped with partly finished compost when the last transplant was done. Fed a half strength GH Veg powder once, 3 days before up-potting. #5 was initially transplanted into more compost to see if said compost was finished, but quickly was put in the same set-up as everyone else (hence the slight yellowing, rebounding though). Do some foliar spray (just water) with a battery powered sprayer, handfeed from the top of the pots, water from the bottom (pump is on a switch, but no timer--at least at the moment). Potting soil is just regular Miracle Gro. I don't pH the res or anything, just keep the reservoir bubbling, in the dark, and constantly topped off. Have done this for two years with regular garden starts in two flood trays and haven't had a problem. Seating is a bucket--as is the custom.
Thanks for sharing your grow with us friend. Sounds interesting, I'm going to ride with you for a while.
 

VerticalVerde

Active member
Thanks for sharing your grow with us friend. Sounds interesting, I'm going to ride with you for a while.
Hey, thanks for checking in. Know there isn't much to look at yet. Running this stuff I had lying around first to get any major problems sorted out before putting in anything more valuable. Have some various (mostly classic) stuff on deck, but haven't decided what will be next. Will be a perpetual little set-up eventually. Have some other lights too; will do a little breeding room as well (probably horizontal), but have to take building things one at a time to stay in budget.
 

VerticalVerde

Active member
Everything is moving along fine, so want to mostly focus on one plant in this post. Might switch to a 400 W HPS with a reflector to get some height out of all of these over the next couple weeks. On to the third plant: The Super Skunk labeled #3 is a polyploid of some sort. Never found or grown one before. Noticed something was up with its first 3-fingered leaf (on only one side), soon after that, on its second node it threw out three branches. Then it started to give priority to two of those branches over the main stem. I topped both of those branches to give the main stem apical dominance again, but I noticed after topping that--while the branches already stacked double on each (branch's) node--topping would push out even more nodes down that branch of the plant. Three or four branches on the same node, several nodes down. If you look closely at picture 2 you can see a baby node that popped up after the first (right) branch's pruning. After pruning the right branch it put out 4 branches* on top and grew back a single one* in the center of the branch/the other four. Never seen that behavior before, but it's cool to learn how this plant reacts. The only thing I really knew about these particular seeds before growing them was that they yielded well (in an unseasoned grower's hands). So this could be a plant worth saving, even for grafting rootstock or something. If it's got 4 chromosomes it could be useful for breeding triploids. Most of these pics are just demonstrating the variety of branches per node the plant will throw out. Pic 5 for instance was never topped, but the stem has split itself, while throwing 2's. Theoretically those could be increased by 1-2 with a single cut. Stem rubs are starting to reveal some stuff as well. #2 and #3 are my favorite of the Super Skunk, while the s1 (El Nino x Diesel) x (Skunk x NL) is my favorite smell. Has something skunky/diesely yet sweet in a chemically way to it. Hope everyone had good holidays. Going to up-pot again real soon. Maybe once more before final container. Will update when I do.
 

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VerticalVerde

Active member
I topped #3 (numbered bc it threw out three leaves early on). I assume it's a triploid, and want it to keep throwing extra branches on all of the stems--just to keep it from potentially reverting. There are partial polyploids it seems. In addition to all its other weirdness, it has started to show its preflowers--and they're male... No pistils yet, it was weeks behind, and its a fem seed. Triploids are near totally infertile, so I'm not beyond risking it in the flowering room for the sake of science, but it might stay under the 400W HPS for a sealed off flower.
Have learned a little bit more about polyploidism since last posting--much of it from 10 year old threads on icmag; though it seems like youtube is putting stuff out on it in the last few years. Still much more to read about before I feel confident, and would really appreciate getting any breeders knowledgeable of the subject into here to bounce questions off of:
Thinking about the possibility of selfing a triploid, or applying one of the chemicals that turns diploids into tetraploids to the meristem? Can I turn a triploid into a hexaploid, and if so would breeding it with a diploid produce tetraploids? Can I take samples throughout the plant and confirm polyploidism with a microscope (and how to do so), or do I need it tested with flow cytometry? What are potential possibilities for grafting and cloning? Could a triploid clone be a good rootstock to graft low-yielding strains (eg GSC) onto in order to boost yields?
 

VerticalVerde

Active member
Small update, had to really look to see this. Male preflowers on the left of her, female preflowers to his right--here it is, stuck in the middle with me lol. Should be getting potting soil today, just need to locate enough buckets without losing my veg room chair.
 

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VerticalVerde

Active member
Back to regularly scheduled (KISS) programming. Made a holder to reuse old furnace filters, since this area doesn't need a scrubber, just dust filtration. Remove the top, center screw to replace the filter. Just vacuumed off a used one, and put a new one in the house. set up is a 400W HPS, and a 6 inch fan on low. Vegging them 18/6 now. the s1 is in the middle attempting to get the most light/catch up. Light is about 15 inches away on average; using a Yieldmaster II reflector. The only thing I didn't have on hand was the pavers to get the plastic off of my cold, constantly-flooding, basement floor. Put plastic caps under the mirror to keep the wood off the concrete for the same reason. There is an oscillating fan on a step stool just out of frame as well. Can see the plants early in their first full day of HPS light (1424_1), and late the next day (1524). Pulled out and pruned all the plants up on the flood table so it was easier to sit and look at them.
Want to note I only gave that single half-feeding of GH veg so far, and that was bc I had it laying around from years ago before I got into permaculture. Would just as soon use 1 part urea to 20 parts water before buying something unneeded. Could also do diluted compost extracts (not even teas; could sub in chopped up grass) and be fine. Less is more ime. Really think most growers are over-loving their plants--sometimes to death.
They would not have needed a feeding in this instance if they were up-potted on time, but the 432 watts of 6500k T5 light causing such compact growth gave me a distorted concept of their roots.
Still think the plants are doing really well considering the minimalistic, retro nature of the grow. Also realize many growers won't have space for multiple rooms like this, but would recommend focusing any extra money on genetics, lighting and environmental control over additives and bottles. Have collected these lights over many years waiting for legalization, so at this point it all feels free--but also silly to upgrade until they've more than paid for themselves. I tend to run things until they're unfixable too. The vertical part of all this is coming in the next few weeks. Think it's better to wait until plants are in their final container to make the trellising easier.
Next Friday will be the day they go into either ~5gal containers, or bigger. And next round I want to try stuff that will put on some stretch in flower. Can't see these Super Skunk doing that, so will probably go beyond 16-18 inches like I'd been planning for veg. Probably take one clone of each next Friday and then any that don't take I'll pull one more branch by week 2 of flower. Not really pheno hunting these though. might just keep one mother to clone rootstock off of for grafting low-yielding plants to*. Thanks to anyone checking in.
 

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GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
Let me start by saying this : your photos are unusually good for an online forum thread. I take pride in my pics, so love anyone else doing the same. Even if this was not the subject matter, I'd still have subbed to this thread just for the quality of pics.
I also find the idea of a vertical Colosseum grow, interesting, though no idea how you will get inside to trim/train/photo. I guess I'll find out later in the thread.
Ok, so, enough arse kissing 😂, time to burst a few bubbles I'm afraid. First, nothing there indicates polyploidy. However you do have something that is about to fasciate. Sadly since the update, my albums are a nightmare to search through, but after I post, I'll spend 5 mins trying to find some pics for you. Alternatively you could search fasciation. I and others have written on the subject at length on this site.
Yes it can be passed on by breeding, but not in a Mendelian manner. Not do you want to. Your plants are beautiful, but your yield on the fasciated plant/s will be disappointing, not on weight, but quality.
However, while I have never used the whole "root stock" thing, I've seen it done, and feel very jealous of those who can pull it off. And yes, there is no better candidate for that than a fasciated base plant. If that's something you do, absolutely do it.
I'm not convinced your male pre-flower is a male, but if it is, the the plant itself is a female Hermie. Which I don't feel will affect your attached cuts in a negative way, provided cuts taken from your megga mum, are taken after the grafting point for rooting, and you give those cuts sufficient time in veg.

Now if you do want to look for the n number, (ploidy levels,) grab a microscope, and compare the tiny little holes in the leaves. You know, it's nostrils lol. Look at an area around 1 inch by 1 inch, count the holes. Look at their size. You'll see significant differences between diploids and tetraploids. (Bear in mind that triploids don't appear from diploids very often), though it's possible, they are far more commonly created by tetraploids breeding with diploids. So for a first sport type of plant, means tetraploid would be more likely than triploid. But triploids/tetraploids are not identified by leaf/branch counts. These are more a gene count thing than a chromosomal or entire DNA strand thing.

Anyway, thread subbed now, any Q's or comments, I'll see them now. Happy to call in, but bound to be stuff I can't answer, still I can call on peeps who can 😁. Man I love this place
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran

On its way.
Anything up to 4 branches per node is supportable, and can be grown normally, however 5 or more, or multiple branches per leaf, will result in fasciation.


The buds are wider and flat but tiny calyxes and lots of stem and twig.

They aren't worth flowering out.



Oh, I was asked for my input here, so I promise folks, I'm not just hijacking this guy's thread.
 

VerticalVerde

Active member

On its way.
Anything up to 4 branches per node is supportable, and can be grown normally, however 5 or more, or multiple branches per leaf, will result in fasciation.


The buds are wider and flat but tiny calyxes and lots of stem and twig.

They aren't worth flowering out.



Oh, I was asked for my input here, so I promise folks, I'm not just hijacking this guy's thread.
Thank you so much for checking the plant/thread out. Agree with everything you said here (or at least differ to your expertise since I was the one asking lol), except the male preflowers. I have other nanners that are more obvious on different internodes that appeared first. That was just the only internode that showed them together. In fact the first preflower (male) I found had necrosis already on its tip? Not sure what that's about. Will experiment with the rootstock thing going forward and document my attempts. At least I'll have a ton of branches to clone from this thing lol.
Per the vertical colleseum: basically I have no plans to get into the center and will just train from the back. Have done this before on a smaller scale--but with less access--and it was pretty easy in my opinion. Pics are all just from my phone, but glad they're up to snuff. Want people to see what I'm rambling about at least lol.
 

GMT

The Tri Guy
Veteran
No worries man, side info: no such thing as a male Hermie, all Hermies are female. The presence of a Y chromosome will always silence the instructions for pistils. X chromosomes don't always do a good enough job though. I'm saying nothing in these woke times about that 😁😂.
 

VerticalVerde

Active member
Decided to make this high-tech cloner, and air-layer the big branch with 4 per node. Figured this would be the easiest way to grab such a big clone. Will see. Have only done this with like a jostaberry, but was very easy in that instance. Plants will need first watering since going under HPS tomorrow. #2 is a big drinker so I gave it a light watering to match the weights of the other pots yesterday, so they could all get a flood table watering tomorrow. Temporarily going back under the 6500k makes it way easier to check for problems too.

*Edit* I scraped the stem with a blade lightly and put rooting hormone on it before putting it in the bottle. Added soil before attaching it around the branch.
 

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VerticalVerde

Active member
Long update, been a while, but everything has been going pretty smoothly:

I was given some 6 gal pots that I up-potted all but the super skunk #1 into. It along with the #3 were given bigger containers during the last up-pot, and I didn't have enough soil on hand this time so I put it in a 3 gal. I had ~4 cu ft when initially transplanting which allowed me to put the #2, #4, and #5 into 6 gals, along with the #1 going up from a 2 gal. I left the #3, along with the younger diesel cross, for a few days until I could get more soil, then put them in 6 gallons. On the fence whether I will put the #1 in a 6 gal in a couple weeks, or just take it straight into it's final flowering container. Will see how it maintains its size compared to the rest of the plants, but it's still generally ahead. Would have to come up with a different tray-thing to lift the plants off the concrete in pre-flower to fit 6x 6 gal pots under the 400 W HPS I realized, so might throw a pallet in there, but probably will use the 6 gal as final containers for a breeding tent/room instead going forward and do the penultimate up-pot into 3 gals next run. Currently the diesel cross has shot up ~2 in above the super skunks so it is getting the 432 W 6500 k T5s to hopefully give it some stoutness. It was also fimmed to hopefully get a bit more bushiness. Can tell it will stretch way more than the others. Four of the plants had gone from 3/4 gal pots while #1 and #3 were given 2 gal.

Since the last update I had begun training the #5 and the diesel cross some with plastic-coated plant ties I had lying around. I drilled 2 holes on their 3/4 gal containers 180 degrees apart and then ran the plant tie up and looped it around branches until I had all the developed branches lined up in a flat plane (in preparation for the VScroG obviously). I also flattened the branches to try and encourage development along their lengths, and bent some of the upper small branches repeatedly into place. Pictures 1 and 2 show #5, while 21 and 22 show the diesel cross. Forgot to grab a pic of the fimm/top I did, but I basically pulled apart the two sets of smallest fan leaves I could then pushed the top over and off with my finger. Producing 4-6 tops it seems.

All of the plants got trimmed up to varying degrees except for the diesel cross. Pics 12, 13, 14, and 16 show the trim job on #3 pretty well, the before and after. #3 is a bit of an oddity with the air layer clone so you have to kind of envision the plant without that section still. Attempted to trim in such a way that when that branch is gone the plant will be easier to flatten out on the trellis. Pic 15 is all of the leaf material I pulled off that will be mulched onto the final containers/beds. Have a few more pics, as well as some info and questions about stuff I've noticed while pruning that I will post about soon, but am at my pic limit for now. When I initially started this thread I said I would be switching to flower at ~16 in, and that's where the plants are just now getting. The diesel cross I believe would more than double in stretch while I'm guessing ~1.5 from these super skunks, so they're still going to get a bit bigger before final transplant and flip. Will probably build out the flower room next weekend though. Know I ramble a lot, but also know I skip over even more stuff so if anyone wants more info feel free to ask.
 

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VerticalVerde

Active member
Decided I needed to do some training before the final container after all. Pic 1 is Super Skunk #4, pic 2 is #5, pic 3 is #2, pic 4 is #3 w/o the air layer, pic 5 is the diesel cross, and pic 6 is #1. Pic 23 is a day before I had trained them, pic 0 is yesterday at the beginning of lights on with some bluer lighting, and 7 is today under the HPS. Will thin everyone more soon. The leaves are still adjusting to the light from being moved around so much.
 

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VerticalVerde

Active member
Small update: plants are all about 19 inches tall right now. Just got some help setting up the electrical outlet for the 1000W HPS so have all the amperage needed for flower room (doing 240V, so I could even add another light no problem). Plan on switching to flower as soon as the room and beds (27 gal totes) are set up. Still have all the framing and materials to get, but the electrical was the big mental hurdle for me. Hung and tested the light too, so feels like some real progress was made. Same person that gifted me the 6 gal pots (and that I know lurks this thread) helped me out with it, so big shout-out to: [redacted] lol.
 

VerticalVerde

Active member
Thinned everyone again. Plants are really putting on a lot of smells at this point. Multiple skunks have a distinct cheesy scent, and I'm catching straight skunky smells on myself when I'm out of the house. Good signs, given the (lack of) provenance. The pic of the ss4 is a day after its thinning, the leaves quickly move to fill in gaps. The ss1 I did more heavily. Don't have a formula for thinning just try to read the plant individually and look at how the light hits it--while keeping in mind it's final light setting. The diesel cross has had massive fan leaves like that since the first post if you look closely. A little afraid of what it's final form will be. I wanted to start flowering this week, but still need to frame the room and throw up B on W poly. Got the ducting set up for flower though. The flowering room won't be sealed, I just wanted to use the one inline fan for both lights. Want to see if I can get away with venting via a smaller fan. The labeled solo cups are of Blackbird Preservations' Sensi Star f4 (reg). Want to flower 8 next round (two to every tote), have some other fem seedlings as back-ups for any males I get. The nondescript labels are so I can reuse them. You simply write down what they are that round, or even easier: take a quick video of all the labels. Learned this from a recording engineer and use it in my regular gardens. Engineers have a ton of outboard equip with dials set to various points so: take a video where they're at for a given project and save tons of time. Final pic is an experiment with inosculation, the natural grafting of plants. Started these together then cut a piece of straw, taped it, and clipped it around the stems up to their cotyledons. Seems like a great way for people to stay within plant counts. Could make seeds, and stuff more easily. Hopefully flowering by next update (or the one after).
 

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VerticalVerde

Active member
Quick, long update, bc it's been too long:

First day of 12/12 is tomorrow. Realized I wasn't going to fit all 6 plants as well as I wanted and that it'd be better to gift two of them and just flower one per container. Finally got the other two plants out of the way tonight; everything was set up, trellised, etc a few days ago. Can see some of the empty room in the first pic. Two inline fans. One fan cools both hoods on medium (the preflower 400W HPS, and this 1kW), while a second fan filters and vents the flower room on low. Can see a pic of my temp tests before transplanting and it's really easy to control things with separate fans--though not necessary. Can add/dial in heat really accurately if I want by slowing down the cooltube's fan. Defoliated everyone before and after I trained them. Haven't seen any stunting from them while they've changed lights and containers so excited to see what happens with flower. The light was lower in these pics but have been running it just above the plant tops to fill in the screen more. Full screen is 42 in diameter, and 39 in tall; 35.75 sq ft of screen. Have the room sitting at 77F and about 45-50% RH. Running a honeywell fan in the center of the screen, up at the cooltube at all times for general air movement, and the osc fan turns on for a half hour every two (only twice during lights off). Took about 3.5 cu ft of potting soil/compost to fill and top the 27 gal totes. Going to mulch with grass on top of the compost--mostly to make watering easier, but it will also feed the soil way more than one would expect. Have grown tomatoes and strawberries on untiled clay with nothing but grass clippings before. Hopefully will have some pics full of white pistils/stigma soon.

The plants I kept were the diesel cross (great complex smell profile and growth), super skunk 5 (best growth overall was the one I tested compost on, fully bounced back; best roots by far), super skunk 1 and 2 were my other choices based on stem rubs and shape mostly. 3 was the crazy fasciating plant, and I have a clone of one those branches saved that I've LST'd and plan on grafting to. Three had the most berry terps that waffle between that and cheese day to day. Super Skunk 4 was probably tied with 2 for the most cheesy, but I hadn't put it into a 6 gal yet so it couldn't handle it's own tote size-wise. Excited for my friend to get mature, ready-to-flower plants to cut their teeth/green thumbs on though. I've also been experimenting with grafting and have had some success, found a great thread in the middle of these attempts (on here) where a user has done basically every type of graft you can think of--incredibly helpful. A clear tote on another equally sized tote with a small led garage light a foot above it has been an effective graft recovery chamber (giant clone dome). My main successes have been: a GG4 x Chem D on top of my NL#5 keeper male I'm going to breed with, and I have an NL male that seems to be taking two Giesel crosses and a Bubba Kush. Any questions feel free to ask. More updates soon.
 

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VerticalVerde

Active member
Green garlic I planted is popping up in every tote (031224 1; 031224 2). Takes about 60 days to get a nice big ping pong of fresh garlic that can be used as such or take the place of green onions. Chops up easy, no peeling, can't buy it in a grocery store, delicious and a good companion plant/deterrent for pests. These are small hard neck garlic cloves I saved from the garden last year, and hadn't cooked with. Most of my hard neck garlic stock comes from Aldi in the fall, when I see they've imported from Spain it's usually hard neck. Used a lot of the leaves I'd been saving to mulch #1 and the diesel cross with, then mulched all four with grass clippings from my front lawn, and mowed up cornstalks (+beanstalks and dill). Pic (031424 2) has a good shot of the mulch along with a diameter measurement of the #5 Super Skunk.

Pic (031224 3) shows the temp and humidity range on that day. Had another pic from March 15th where the temp range only varied 2 degrees over 24 hours, with 4% in RH fluctuation. I really don't think this setup would have any problem with a second light and heat. Know that a lot of vertical growers used to shit on cooltubes, but it just makes environmental control way too easy imo. The ducting from the cooltube runs into an unused coal room in my basement, which acts as a lung room for just the HID lighting down there (early on in the thread you can see me put a filter over the ducting in there). I have this setup designed so eventually it can help heat a solar greenhouse, but that is a project I will finish next fall probably. I thinned everyone again on the 12th (pic 031224 2), and plan on another light thinning in about ten days.

Pics (031424 1) and (031624 1) are just me tracking the height of the shortest plant in here. I am rationally nervous about what stretch might bring, but I know I'm not afraid to twist and hack at a plant to make it fit a space either. Will let them grow above the screen and inward some. Maybe run wire across the ring to make sure they don't get too close to the bulb, idk. I can rest my hand on the cooltube with that honeywell fan hitting it, so I will catch anything before it burns much. In pic (031524 1) you can see the two tower fans I swapped out the regular oscillating fan for. They're on the same timer, but when I get another one I will probably stagger them--at least if any leaves are getting beaten up by then. Right now they run when lights are on, and then for a half hour every 2 hours at lights off.

After I mulched everyone entirely I watered in 2 gal to each tote. The mulch layer hopefully provided some nutrition but mainly (for me) it made it so the water dispersed easily. Before this I did their initial watering in with a 1 gal electric sprayer, and I knew it wasn't a long term option. Every watering can I've ever owned the head breaks off eventually so I just started watering everything without one, then use mulch (and when outside: my moving hand) to break up the impact of the water on plants. I also love mulch because worms work 24/7 under it and it saves a ton on watering. This space has tons of air movement and light so the top layer dries out fast (too fast imo). While checking this two days after watering the layer under the mulch feels like a damp forest floor. I plan on only watering this maybe 8 times all of flower. That means I only need to roll up the big full sides ~once a week, for that and defoliation. When just checking on things I have been using these little access doors I built above my air intakes. Pics (031624 2) and (031624 3) shows one of these doors, on the side with a tower fan, and one of the layers of light-proofing that goes with it. I checked the light proofing when running all kinds of light outside and it works great, but took so much effort. Expanding foam insulation was nice for the uneven floors.

Going to check under some hay I have piled up soon, and add a fistful of worms to each bin too--or maybe pardon some from a bait shop if I don't find enough idk. Seeing some big white hairs but nothing worth photographing yet. Started 12/12 a day after I said I would on my last post btw, so March 9th was day 1 technically. Making this day 7. Next week will definitely see some more. Plan on adding some hanging garage lights to get some regular colored lighting in here for updates going forward too. As always any questions feel free to ask. Realize its only lurkers though, so try to provide as much info as I can.

edit: *Almost forgot* pic (031324 1) is a fallen soldier x giesel from CSI Humboldt. Had a true duckfoot on its three fingered leaves, any guesses what the other half of the genetics might be? He has a list of 22 crosses he did on insta a while ago, and I have no good guess lol.
 

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