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A Cannabis Growing Guide - All that you need to know to get started
- Thread starter Kodiak
- Start date
de Morville
Member
awesome guide
for me the best i have read so far
lots of input from you, thanks
for me the best i have read so far
lots of input from you, thanks
Capt Cannabis
Member
Great post, tons of great information. Tagged for future reference.
Thumb Billy
New member
I've been growing for many years but was never able to learn from others. Just recently joined this group and I am amazed by the information that you have available and about how little I really knew after all of these years. Thanks for all of the time and effort that you put into this thread. Once I started I couldn't stop reading.
That about sums up my experience here too man except for the growing for years part. I've definitely spent some hours reading and researching stuff on this site. Welcome aboard.
HATS OFF to the writer of this page &pages I'm newbie & I actually found the thread to CI on mag420 & your site o are so in depth & easy to follow its on real, if i would of found this sight in the beginning, In a nutshell I wouldn't of made so many mistakes keep the great work up as my teacher in school always said DO YOUR HOME WORK
Thanks for the good words, I'm glad that you found the guide useful.
Your teacher was right but theory is always slightly different from practise. Making mistakes is part of the learning process. That's how I found out half of this stuff. Every time you experiment with something new, you have to be prepared to make a few mistakes. You can learn just as much that way. Sometimes you learn faster if you encounter all sorts of problems from the start.
Even after many years of growing, I still run into new things because I grow both indoors and outdoors and make my own seeds. The outcome is always unpredictable to some degree. There's always something new around the corner, so the learning never actually stops. Growing does get easier though, the more you know.
I used to study the science behind plants and growing for a long time but nowadays I like to forget about all of it and just enjoy watching the plants grow. It's more fun and reminds me of the times when I started out.
At first the plant is just a plant. Then you start researching it and it becomes something else. You break it down into little pieces in order to see the whole picture. When you are done reasearching, the plant is just a plant once again, only you know it better.
That's when you get to the smooth sailing. You prepare everthing so well that the plants pretty much take care of themselves because you know what they like and need.
Have fun growing
K
Your teacher was right but theory is always slightly different from practise. Making mistakes is part of the learning process. That's how I found out half of this stuff. Every time you experiment with something new, you have to be prepared to make a few mistakes. You can learn just as much that way. Sometimes you learn faster if you encounter all sorts of problems from the start.
Even after many years of growing, I still run into new things because I grow both indoors and outdoors and make my own seeds. The outcome is always unpredictable to some degree. There's always something new around the corner, so the learning never actually stops. Growing does get easier though, the more you know.
I used to study the science behind plants and growing for a long time but nowadays I like to forget about all of it and just enjoy watching the plants grow. It's more fun and reminds me of the times when I started out.
At first the plant is just a plant. Then you start researching it and it becomes something else. You break it down into little pieces in order to see the whole picture. When you are done reasearching, the plant is just a plant once again, only you know it better.
That's when you get to the smooth sailing. You prepare everthing so well that the plants pretty much take care of themselves because you know what they like and need.
Have fun growing
K
Welcome to ICmag
Stick to the well known seeds banks and you should be ok.
Try Hindu Kush or Master Kush. They are both reasonably priced and easy to grow.
Here's a list of indica strains that you also might want to check out:
Hash Plant
Black Domina
Afghani #1
Maple Leaf Indica
Northern Lights
Durga Mata
Sandstorm
Legends Ultimate Indica
X18
Deep Chunk
Taskenti
There are many more to choose from, so check out different seed banks/breeders and pick a plant that you like.
Stick to the well known seeds banks and you should be ok.
Try Hindu Kush or Master Kush. They are both reasonably priced and easy to grow.
Here's a list of indica strains that you also might want to check out:
Hash Plant
Black Domina
Afghani #1
Maple Leaf Indica
Northern Lights
Durga Mata
Sandstorm
Legends Ultimate Indica
X18
Deep Chunk
Taskenti
There are many more to choose from, so check out different seed banks/breeders and pick a plant that you like.
ganjah master
New member
I'm really impressed with kind of high quality information this site provides.
thanks, keep working the good job mates
thanks, keep working the good job mates
faintfuzzies
Member
end of 5th week of flower some yellowing
end of 5th week of flower some yellowing
first off i just lost all but 1 medical legal plant due to a climate disaster, my vent to outside stayed open from a branch keeping vent door open it let all this cold 10 degree f air into room threw light and i went in room other day and it was about 10 degree F so i lost all but 1 plant.I have 1 plant left plant that was in the small room flowering it was saved becuase it was not near that disaster room, but this one plant is in 5th week of flower and doing really well but i did take some large yellow fan leaves off today maybe 3-4 large lower leaves The plant is a big plant 3+ft tall. in the 5th week of flowering( nice big flowers and they look real good is this normal or should i up the nitrogen a little bit. im using advanced nutes micro grow and bloom Im in sunshine mix #4 advanced mix my ppm is at 1150 and ph is between 6.0-6.2 ..most of time about 6.1ph.. I think its normal to see some yellowing in flowering but this is my first round and im not 100% sure. I want to make sure its happy being i lost all my other plants do to the cold . what a nightmare , my heart dropped.
Faint
end of 5th week of flower some yellowing
first off i just lost all but 1 medical legal plant due to a climate disaster, my vent to outside stayed open from a branch keeping vent door open it let all this cold 10 degree f air into room threw light and i went in room other day and it was about 10 degree F so i lost all but 1 plant.I have 1 plant left plant that was in the small room flowering it was saved becuase it was not near that disaster room, but this one plant is in 5th week of flower and doing really well but i did take some large yellow fan leaves off today maybe 3-4 large lower leaves The plant is a big plant 3+ft tall. in the 5th week of flowering( nice big flowers and they look real good is this normal or should i up the nitrogen a little bit. im using advanced nutes micro grow and bloom Im in sunshine mix #4 advanced mix my ppm is at 1150 and ph is between 6.0-6.2 ..most of time about 6.1ph.. I think its normal to see some yellowing in flowering but this is my first round and im not 100% sure. I want to make sure its happy being i lost all my other plants do to the cold . what a nightmare , my heart dropped.
Faint
Thanks guys, I'm glad that the guide was useful.
faintfuzzies, sorry to hear about your loss but on the upside, at least you still have the one plant so you have to make the most of it. Yeah, some yellowing of the lower leaves is normal and nothing to worry about. The plant is just relocating energy. The topmost leaves should however remain green until the later stages of flowering, when the remaining energy is used up for buds.
You do have a few options to consider. You can try to take clones from the flowering plant and persuade them to root in a bubbler. It might take some time and there are no guarantees but then you could start a second grow right after the first one, which might make up for lost time. Seems like it's a good plant. You can also try to re-veg the mother plant. I would probably cut the plant down in size, scratch a bit at the roots to promote new growth and then re-pot her in a good sized pot with fresh vegging nutes. Then I would put her back under 24/0 light schedule.
You can also train the big plant a bit, so that it produces more bud. It probably has a good 4, maybe 5 weeks to go, so there's some time. I would just spread out the branches a bit, so that more light reaches the lower buds and leaves. I might also consider removing some of the lower "pop-corn" buds, thereby pushing the production towards the top of the plant, to the areas that receive more light. The plant might also become healthier when more leaves are exposed to the light. Overall, it might take slightly longer to mature but it might be worth your while to wait.
I would up the phosphorus dosage slightly and you might also want to give them a small dose of nitrogen, in order to keep the leaves healthy. You should also have the rest of the fertz covered, so a few bottles of supplement nutes is required for healthy flowering. You can also try adjusting the pH a bit if the fertz don't do the trick. Some plants are more fussy than others.
It's a bit dificult to give exact advice when I don't know the strain or what the plant looks like. Still, it seems like a hardy plant since it survived the cold, so I think that you are just a few steps from dialing in the nutes. You can try training the plant from the start the next time and see if you can pull more weight off her that way.
Stay creative when you grow your plants. It helps sometimes to think outside of the box. That's how people came up with all this stuff in the first place.
I wish you the best. May your harvest be grand.
faintfuzzies, sorry to hear about your loss but on the upside, at least you still have the one plant so you have to make the most of it. Yeah, some yellowing of the lower leaves is normal and nothing to worry about. The plant is just relocating energy. The topmost leaves should however remain green until the later stages of flowering, when the remaining energy is used up for buds.
You do have a few options to consider. You can try to take clones from the flowering plant and persuade them to root in a bubbler. It might take some time and there are no guarantees but then you could start a second grow right after the first one, which might make up for lost time. Seems like it's a good plant. You can also try to re-veg the mother plant. I would probably cut the plant down in size, scratch a bit at the roots to promote new growth and then re-pot her in a good sized pot with fresh vegging nutes. Then I would put her back under 24/0 light schedule.
You can also train the big plant a bit, so that it produces more bud. It probably has a good 4, maybe 5 weeks to go, so there's some time. I would just spread out the branches a bit, so that more light reaches the lower buds and leaves. I might also consider removing some of the lower "pop-corn" buds, thereby pushing the production towards the top of the plant, to the areas that receive more light. The plant might also become healthier when more leaves are exposed to the light. Overall, it might take slightly longer to mature but it might be worth your while to wait.
I would up the phosphorus dosage slightly and you might also want to give them a small dose of nitrogen, in order to keep the leaves healthy. You should also have the rest of the fertz covered, so a few bottles of supplement nutes is required for healthy flowering. You can also try adjusting the pH a bit if the fertz don't do the trick. Some plants are more fussy than others.
It's a bit dificult to give exact advice when I don't know the strain or what the plant looks like. Still, it seems like a hardy plant since it survived the cold, so I think that you are just a few steps from dialing in the nutes. You can try training the plant from the start the next time and see if you can pull more weight off her that way.
Stay creative when you grow your plants. It helps sometimes to think outside of the box. That's how people came up with all this stuff in the first place.
I wish you the best. May your harvest be grand.
junkyarddog
New member
Hey Kodiak -great job. I hope you/we can keep this thread going. Just thought I'd share a great spider mite repellant: Azatrol and spinosad mixed as directed - 2/3 tsp Azatrol and 1 TB spinosad in one quart water. Best spider might fighter I've found so far - after keeping grow site clean !
Hey junkyarddog,
I'm sure that the thread will remain active. It's not as busy as before but I check in every now and then to answer questions and share thoughts on growing.
Thanks for that spider mite recipe. New ways of fighting them are always welcome because they are really pesky critters. They grow resistant to most toxins within a few generations and their reproduction cycle is very fast. That is why you should always hit them with everything you've got, to reduce the chance of them bouncing back. In reality though, they are almost impossible to wipe out completely because they move to other potted plants in the house and wait there until their next strike. Just when you think you've gotten rid of them, they show up again with a vengeance.
They travel on clothes so they spread quite easily from grow to grow, especially if you accept clones from friends. I have unfortunately been forced to terminate mother plants in the past in order to fully eradicate the bugs.
The only foolproof way of getting rid of them is to stop growing for a few months. They need the plants to survive, so removing all soft tissued plants also means that that the spider mites are eradicted because they are unable to feed and breed. You can keep plants around the house that have hard or very thick coated leaves because they are unable to feed on them. Anything with soft tissue will be attacked.
They are quite disgusting to look at as well. The word "infestation" springs into mind.
There are some quick remedies that can be applied when you encounter spider mites. You can wash the plants in the shower with copious amounts of water. That will take care of some of the eggs and mites but rarely all of them. You can also submerge the pots in water. Insects need air to breathe so they will abandon ship and head for the surface. It's interesting to watch because they start swimming for air en masse after a few minutes. Plant roots can survive without oxygen longer than insects can, so it's quite safe.
Then you hit them with either Neem Oil or Pyrethroids, preferably both. A mixture of nicotine water, hot chili, soap and cooking also work quite well. The oil and soap clogs up the passive breathing holes on the insect body (tracheae). The chili burns them and nicotine is a toxin, so they are poisoned as well. I use that mixture to spray on the top soil as it deters the critters from emerging from their hideout and feeding on the plants.
The best approach is however to use everything at once.
Just some thoughts on spider mites this time.
Have fun growing your plants and keep it green.
Kodiak
I'm sure that the thread will remain active. It's not as busy as before but I check in every now and then to answer questions and share thoughts on growing.
Thanks for that spider mite recipe. New ways of fighting them are always welcome because they are really pesky critters. They grow resistant to most toxins within a few generations and their reproduction cycle is very fast. That is why you should always hit them with everything you've got, to reduce the chance of them bouncing back. In reality though, they are almost impossible to wipe out completely because they move to other potted plants in the house and wait there until their next strike. Just when you think you've gotten rid of them, they show up again with a vengeance.
They travel on clothes so they spread quite easily from grow to grow, especially if you accept clones from friends. I have unfortunately been forced to terminate mother plants in the past in order to fully eradicate the bugs.
The only foolproof way of getting rid of them is to stop growing for a few months. They need the plants to survive, so removing all soft tissued plants also means that that the spider mites are eradicted because they are unable to feed and breed. You can keep plants around the house that have hard or very thick coated leaves because they are unable to feed on them. Anything with soft tissue will be attacked.
They are quite disgusting to look at as well. The word "infestation" springs into mind.
There are some quick remedies that can be applied when you encounter spider mites. You can wash the plants in the shower with copious amounts of water. That will take care of some of the eggs and mites but rarely all of them. You can also submerge the pots in water. Insects need air to breathe so they will abandon ship and head for the surface. It's interesting to watch because they start swimming for air en masse after a few minutes. Plant roots can survive without oxygen longer than insects can, so it's quite safe.
Then you hit them with either Neem Oil or Pyrethroids, preferably both. A mixture of nicotine water, hot chili, soap and cooking also work quite well. The oil and soap clogs up the passive breathing holes on the insect body (tracheae). The chili burns them and nicotine is a toxin, so they are poisoned as well. I use that mixture to spray on the top soil as it deters the critters from emerging from their hideout and feeding on the plants.
The best approach is however to use everything at once.
Just some thoughts on spider mites this time.
Have fun growing your plants and keep it green.
Kodiak
