6-2-4 , 5-3-8 and 3-0-8 any good ?

[Bio boy]

My local has organic certified nursery nutes for farmers .
They have granular 5-3-8 from chicken manure feather n bone potash and sugar wet molasses digest there loaded with myco species too .

there liquids 3-0-8 and 6-2-4
says reduced salt in soil and increases brix
“
fruit forming crops and flowers. 3.0.8 is a high potassium organic liquid fertiliser and biostimulant rich in plant proteins and trace elements. It provides nutrients to the plant and the soil microorganisms, which in turn, convert root exudates and organic matter to further plant food.

N.P.K 3.0.8

Contains key nutrients needed by the plant during flowering and fruit growth Biostimulant promoting microbial growth Ideal for indoor and outdoor plants; tomatoes, cucumbers, fruits and flowers Apply just before and during flowering and fruiting for exceptional growth / yield”



sound really friggin cool hope they are ?
they also do silica fulvic humic yuccas whole range not aimed at cannabis it has nothing to the price they even have a mycorrhizae that’s reads like other dips I currently buy like mycor extreme 1kg is 34 squid where they sell the same shit in 10kg bags for 20 squids lol

these seem like I can use them in my living soil as my amendments or are the numbers not good

 

[Ca++]

You feeding a nice compost, like Jacks Magic? I guess you might be screwing your nose up at the suggestion in an organic forum, but it's a heavy peat mix they love. Everything I buy that wins organic awards, is weak and needs a lot of feed from the start. In any case, 5-3-8 might be interesting. I notice you pricing things in squids, so that's 5-1.5-6.5 elemental. I reckon you could grow and bloom on that. Perhaps with some MKP as it's 0-22-28 elemental ratio, could bring up the P and K fairly equally for late grow/transition. Though I really don't think you would have to. Some Humic at that time might be better if you want a bit more P from your soil. Keeping it organic.

The mycorrhizae sounds good.

 

[Bio boy]

You feeding a nice compost, like Jacks Magic? I guess you might be screwing your nose up at the suggestion in an organic forum, but it's a heavy peat mix they love. Everything I buy that wins organic awards, is weak and needs a lot of feed from the start. In any case, 5-3-8 might be interesting. I notice you pricing things in squids, so that's 5-1.5-6.5 elemental. I reckon you could grow and bloom on that. Perhaps with some MKP as it's 0-22-28 elemental ratio, could bring up the P and K fairly equally for late grow/transition. Though I really don't think you would have to. Some Humic at that time might be better if you want a bit more P from your soil. Keeping it organic.

The mycorrhizae sounds good.

Kinda yeah it’s my own mix peat ewc stones too and a comfrey compost
this was the start 3month ago

amended with
barley limestone gypsum basalt bran and em1 alfalfa
then fed microbe teas with kelp and fish hydrolysate with chicken manure Topdress

im looking to ad some diversity and more nutrition as they are eating chicken shit and ewc fish weekly and hungry still hehe

yes I have indoor trees 8plants 50lpots and a 8ftx11ft Scrog screen 75mm squares

I think this 5-3-8 will do good for my plants even though I am about to flip flower the nitrogen will be needed still due to their size i Would imagine

it would replace my chicken manure top dress as it has that and more in it

what do you mean adding MKP that’s not organic is it ?heard super phos is bad for canna ?
Isn’t there enough p in soils already ? I have soft rock phos and fish which have p right ?
and how did the npk change based on my location lol

I think it seems a quite complete feed to the end right ? K is higher than p which is good just need to load ca in veg and let things go in flower eh

 

[Ca++]

Quite a lot of people use mkp, but it best not going with Ca or Mg in the tank. So it's more suited to soil users who only give npk. It's not organic though, and I see now you are doing a proper organic grow.

When people mix up their own soils, I can't say what food they might need. I have to say my last post has lost integrity. Your soil is the pillars that support it, and I can't be sure what your soil may, or may not, need.

The food does look alright though. Have a read of this study, regarding N use https://www.icmag.com/posts/18341434/
It's a hydro study, but I saw a much bigger soil one, over many soil types, give the same result. N is good and K barely matters at all. While P hasn't been seen advantageous over about 40ppm, yet some cannabis growers still insist they are running a lot more with some plants. Skunk#11 is one people always said wanted high P to really perform. It used to be a cultivated on a large scale, so you would hope it was true. That might be 20 years ago now though.



Soil sampling is really not expensive. Considering the size of your grow and your aims, I really think you should get some to the lab. It could be the best thing you do in the entire grow. It's like getting an expert to check your work. If it can get you another 10g at the end, it has paid for itself financially. However, is that the value in getting a sample done? There is some real 'feel good' if you got it right. While some needed guidance if you didn't.
I'm talking about adding P or agents to release it, but I'm talking nonsense as I don't know how much you have to begin with. Same for everything. If I were to come in on this grow, I would want the soil testing or chucking. It's just not worth guessing, when you have 4Kg potentially. Doing 1% better pays for basic testing. Then next run you test again, and can see soil depletion or gains. It's very valuable information. Then you can really get your mix on.

Lots of people here will look over your report and offer advice if you feel it's diving in a bit deep. This will influence amendments and feed choices. Which is why the above feed might be good, but maybe not for you.

 

[Bio boy]

Quite a lot of people use mkp, but it best not going with Ca or Mg in the tank. So it's more suited to soil users who only give npk. It's not organic though, and I see now you are doing a proper organic grow.

When people mix up their own soils, I can't say what food they might need. I have to say my last post has lost integrity. Your soil is the pillars that support it, and I can't be sure what your soil may, or may not, need.

The food does look alright though. Have a read of this study, regarding N use https://www.icmag.com/posts/18341434/
It's a hydro study, but I saw a much bigger soil one, over many soil types, give the same result. N is good and K barely matters at all. While P hasn't been seen advantageous over about 40ppm, yet some cannabis growers still insist they are running a lot more with some plants. Skunk#11 is one people always said wanted high P to really perform. It used to be a cultivated on a large scale, so you would hope it was true. That might be 20 years ago now though.



Soil sampling is really not expensive. Considering the size of your grow and your aims, I really think you should get some to the lab. It could be the best thing you do in the entire grow. It's like getting an expert to check your work. If it can get you another 10g at the end, it has paid for itself financially. However, is that the value in getting a sample done? There is some real 'feel good' if you got it right. While some needed guidance if you didn't.
I'm talking about adding P or agents to release it, but I'm talking nonsense as I don't know how much you have to begin with. Same for everything. If I were to come in on this grow, I would want the soil testing or chucking. It's just not worth guessing, when you have 4Kg potentially. Doing 1% better pays for basic testing. Then next run you test again, and can see soil depletion or gains. It's very valuable information. Then you can really get your mix on.

Lots of people here will look over your report and offer advice if you feel it's diving in a bit deep. This will influence amendments and feed choices. Which is why the above feed might be good, but maybe not for you.

Thankyou buddy guess I’ll sample them all will have a cut on the roots to get it but can backfill ewc and mycor to aid that eh
a week it takes to get results so fingers crossed there fast these growing like mad and the screen is full

is Mehlich 3 and saturated paste the only tests we can get ? I have to send these abroad to get done lol

 

[Ca++]

You don't have soil labs in your country?
Choosing feeds made me think you were at the start. Perhaps this isn't the best time to be sampling. A 6" core, about 50mm wide, seems a common sample size. If you did want to do a few, then some 15mm? tube could probably get a small core from a few.

It your doing alright, and don't feel you have any issues, then perhaps just run with it this time. Leave perfection for a full grow cycle. Where you have chance to mix it the required amendments.

 

[Bio boy]

You don't have soil labs in your country?
Choosing feeds made me think you were at the start. Perhaps this isn't the best time to be sampling. A 6" core, about 50mm wide, seems a common sample size. If you did want to do a few, then some 15mm? tube could probably get a small core from a few.

It your doing alright, and don't feel you have any issues, then perhaps just run with it this time. Leave perfection for a full grow cycle. Where you have chance to mix it the required amendments.

Well I got soil test uk and the results was messed up was told on here that the tests we have uk are water based and for fields
my tests came back saying can’t be accurate on peat soils lol
was told to do melich 3 and saturate test only and there all USA lol

ahah ye not beginning il post a pic for ya soon when I go up giz an hour
ye just wana amend somthing for flower as am doing chicken shit so this fert here is 5-3-8 made from chicken shit potash and fish bone

seems most amend fish bone before flower on a post I seen and potash I add wk 4 flower myself ,so I think this would give the edge chicken poop doesn’t have plus it’s chock of fungi and sugars for them states improved brix levels on tests and reduces salt in mediums
I can’t see much harm in amending some slow breakdown it should carry through

about N I’ve seen a lot on that saying living organic soil can have n all the time and plant chooses what to take and that a lot assume it needs to be dropped based on hydro study’s where nutrients are bound to n for delivery but in flower need low levels to absorb as there isn’t choosing from soil just force feeding
same as with phosphorus everyone assumes we need it high from study’s on corn fields deficient in p , was born the high p ferts lol I’m assuming that’s what you referenced before about and that using microbes to unlock it seems better approach

I find like slow said if you load ca in veg and don’t purple stem the plant then you can push k in flower
unfortunatly I have purple stems unless I spray fish at em daily which I can’t do in flower haha

 

[Bio boy]

 

[Ca++]

NRM do my tests in the UK. https://cawood.co.uk/nrm/
I'm not sure if they will do as you need. They are refusing my fake ip.

Looks like N is the first issue. It's crept up quite far, so at this rate yield will be low and infection chances high. You need to get that fixed pronto. It's odd, because in places I see clawing that looks like a lot of N. Perhaps you were feeding N, then stopped?

Be nice to have a proper look at them. In the light, from a few angles. Sulphur looks like a maybe. It's a tough call without a better look.

 

[Bio boy]

NRM do my tests in the UK. https://cawood.co.uk/nrm/
I'm not sure if they will do as you need. They are refusing my fake ip.

Looks like N is the first issue. It's crept up quite far, so at this rate yield will be low and infection chances high. You need to get that fixed pronto. It's odd, because in places I see clawing that looks like a lot of N. Perhaps you were feeding N, then stopped?

Be nice to have a proper look at them. In the light, from a few angles. Sulphur looks like a maybe. It's a tough call without a better look.

Thanks man I’ll hop up in the morning then get better pics , I’d be shocked if n was a problem as there light green and yellowing just recovering from mass hunger I’ll drag pic from last week too,
clawing I haven’t noticed but have seen stress 3 leaves and burst growth arms from stress they was under hydrated took a while to get them hydrated properly my additives been low really lol

I am curious to the rest of your message and would love to dive deepernwith ya upon pics in morning

I’ve just emailed them as they have a melich iii report on another forum so hope they stil do it
why dya Ned fake up to message them ?

 

[Ca++]

I'm using an onion network. The node nrm see me as, is on their block list. So I found them with duck duck go, but couldn't actually access the site.
I have used them a few times. They will send out a little box to fill.

From what you say, N is likely low, and snapping might be low K. I don't see low Ca though, which dry conditions often produce. Big pots of soil tend to have a lot of Ca. Such that soil feeds often don't have any in them. Which reflects on your earlier comment of Ca loaded in later veg (Or I'm on the wrong thread. It's 5am. It happens too often lol)

 

[Bio boy]

I'm using an onion network. The node nrm see me as, is on their block list. So I found them with duck duck go, but couldn't actually access the site.
I have used them a few times. They will send out a little box to fill.

From what you say, N is likely low, and snapping might be low K. I don't see low Ca though, which dry conditions often produce. Big pots of soil tend to have a lot of Ca. Such that soil feeds often don't have any in them. Which reflects on your earlier comment of Ca loaded in later veg (Or I'm on the wrong thread. It's 5am. It happens too often lol)

The one with the rust here was a big plant trimmed back she was heavily like this until she hydrated the pot now it’s less
the back plant with leaves yellow n shit is the last plant to hydrate and the biggest her stems are quite strong but leaves don’t snap off the bend n rip I know she’s last to recover

the shading you see in some leaves in the middle is the effect I had allover dying back she turning lush green since watering picked up too I still find dry spots daily feeling base where she wicked water noway near fast enough I feel next round they need a better wick at the base

here’s the mass including a leaf pic to see there is no tip burns or curls as I can see , also a beneath pic to see soil level on the stem currently etc lol

 

[Bio boy]

Will the 5-3-8 be too much n for flower ? I wanted a 2-3-8 or 2-4-6 but doesn’t seem to exist here haha beyond me mixing my own I have every amendment baught on whims but there say in shed and I thought just get a blend be safe lol

 

[goingrey]

I think it will be ok!

 

[Bio boy]

So I saw good growth adding chicken shit 2 wk ago I think that’s now as today I see new yellow leaves lower of plant on all (all hydrated 100%)
lower yellowing is nitrogen eh
2 cultivar show rust spots so guess a heavy ca strain there as all the same strains show same problems as their relatives so that’s strain need

i have purple stems allover still which fades when I feed fish foilar and returns
I really think soil is empty of nutrition , So defo need a feed fast and a slow release , @Ca++ curious your input i like your science lol .

The 6-3-8 would the 6 be too much for entering flower ? Do I need to add any ca inputs limestone gypsum etc can’t hurt eh ?
would a liquid feed be needed too? I wana throw chicken shit on em but if I get a blend there I don’t wanna overdo it so I’m going to give them worm shit tonight

 

[Bio boy]

Quite a lot of people use mkp, but it best not going with Ca or Mg in the tank. So it's more suited to soil users who only give npk. It's not organic though, and I see now you are doing a proper organic grow.

When people mix up their own soils, I can't say what food they might need. I have to say my last post has lost integrity. Your soil is the pillars that support it, and I can't be sure what your soil may, or may not, need.

The food does look alright though. Have a read of this study, regarding N use https://www.icmag.com/posts/18341434/
It's a hydro study, but I saw a much bigger soil one, over many soil types, give the same result. N is good and K barely matters at all. While P hasn't been seen advantageous over about 40ppm, yet some cannabis growers still insist they are running a lot more with some plants. Skunk#11 is one people always said wanted high P to really perform. It used to be a cultivated on a large scale, so you would hope it was true. That might be 20 years ago now though.



Soil sampling is really not expensive. Considering the size of your grow and your aims, I really think you should get some to the lab. It could be the best thing you do in the entire grow. It's like getting an expert to check your work. If it can get you another 10g at the end, it has paid for itself financially. However, is that the value in getting a sample done? There is some real 'feel good' if you got it right. While some needed guidance if you didn't.
I'm talking about adding P or agents to release it, but I'm talking nonsense as I don't know how much you have to begin with. Same for everything. If I were to come in on this grow, I would want the soil testing or chucking. It's just not worth guessing, when you have 4Kg potentially. Doing 1% better pays for basic testing. Then next run you test again, and can see soil depletion or gains. It's very valuable information. Then you can really get your mix on.

Lots of people here will look over your report and offer advice if you feel it's diving in a bit deep. This will influence amendments and feed choices. Which is why the above feed might be good, but maybe not for you.

Have to admit too that I over passed that link assuming what I posted about it when I saw hydro lol I clicked it and read and holy shit I didn’t expect that haha on point that’s awesome I always read back posts 6times over as I am used to missing info lol
guess I’ll get the 6-3-8 and ignore the 6

 

[Ca++]

If you have Ca signs and purple stems, they could be directly related to dry medium. You seem to be saying it is, with drier pots showing it more.

If you liked that link, you might need some tissues

https://www.ncat.edu/caes/agricultural-research/industrial-hemp-program/hemp-conference/files/mcginnis.pdf

 

[St. Phatty]

A lot of flowering nutes have little or no Nitrogen.

But some of the people I have learned from, give the plants Nitrogen during flowering.

 

[Bio boy]

A lot of flowering nutes have little or no Nitrogen.

But some of the people I have learned from, give the plants Nitrogen during flowering.

Yeah ca linked a dude who used a 25-5-7 or somthibg in flower and smashed yields lol his garden is amazing looking too
making me really question shit lol

if I get that 5-3-8 and slap some on would I still need a fast release like a liquid feed to get going ? They have a general 5-2-5 feed for instance or would my foilar fish hydrolysate and kelp to bypass the roots energy be enough to keep em on track I guess and microbe teas

yeah dry medium can do phos and ca true now there wet I’d assume it come back when I feed this 5-3-8 ,ph is 6.7 soil top and 6.7 runoff btw

@Ca++ I’d love it if they did that in my country but I am pretty sure I’d be getting blue lights not a report lol

 

[St. Phatty]

Yeah ca linked a dude who used a 25-5-7 or somthibg in flower and smashed yields lol his garden is amazing looking too
making me really question shit lol

if I get that 5-3-8 and slap some on would I still need a fast release like a liquid feed to get going ? They have a general 5-2-5 feed for instance or would my foilar fish hydrolysate and kelp to bypass the roots energy be enough to keep em on track I guess and microbe teas

yeah dry medium can do phos and ca true now there wet I’d assume it come back when I feed this 5-3-8 ,ph is 6.7 soil top and 6.7 runoff btw

@Ca++ I’d love it if they did that in my country but I am pretty sure I’d be getting blue lights not a report lol

When I grew hydro, it was Gospel, you use Phosphorus and Potassium intensive nutrient during flowering.

There was a little Nitrogen in the General Hydro "Micro" that I used for about 15 years.

I started growing in soil after I took a Hot Composting class taught by a soil science prof. from Berkeley.

There are a lot of different ways to get the Magic to the roots.

I think one of the more interesting calculations a Botanist could do is to calculate ALL the poop and urine excreted by all the animals on Earth during the last Billion years.

The only way "it works" is if the plants turn around and consume that as their own food.

Otherwise it would accumulate in very large piles and puddles.

So basically our job as growers is to massage this flow of poop and ground up bones that goes from the animal world to the plant world.

If we do it right, the plants make some righteous medications to soothe our aching bones.

As far as the numbers "6-2-4-5-3-8-and-3-0-8", it's good to learn how to measure the actual N, P, and K that is getting to the roots.

I'm sure there some good botany-chemistry classes with LABS where they teach people how to measure the actual concentration (measured in Molarity) of all the chemical compounds that are floating to the roots.