Nice, advice from a true master! Lucky you my friend! I would follow what that man said to a "T". Keep us posted!
Nice, advice from a true master! Lucky you my friend! I would follow what that man said to a "T". Keep us posted!
Whoa, a little yellow? Dude, those plants are fucked! That is a textbook pic of a severely Mg deficient plant.
Your pH is way too low and has been for some time, locking out Mg completely. Look at how yellow the leaves are- that's due to a complete lack of Mg in the plant due to pH lockout of Mg. Mg makes up the central ion in chlorophyll.... your plant can't absorb Mg from the soil because the pH is too low, making chlorophyll synthesis all but stop- thus the yellow, sickly plant.
You need to immediately:
a) water at 8.0-8.5 about 5x the volume of your soil/container... You will see if you repeatedly measure the pH of the runoff, that your pH will start to rise after multiple flushes. The flush water should consist of 2-300 ppm of epsom salts (available at your local pharmacy.
b) I would personally mix up 200 ppm of veg solution, with 200 ppm of epsom salts. They don't need much food at the moment- they aren't growing!!!! Just like feeding a severely malnourished human, you don't want to sit them down for a full on 5 course steak dinner right now. Less is more right now, until you get them back to health.
c) Transplant into larger containers
d) Immediately stop listening to people who tell you to water at pH 5.8. That's insane in Promix, which is naturally acidic and will push down the pH over time as nutrients accumulate. 5.8 is fine for medium-less hydroponics. Watering pH 5.8 in soilless mix is a recipe for disaster.
e) In the future, mix in 2-3 cups of dolmomite lime per bale of Promix before planting. The runoff should be no lower than 6.3. As stated, 6.7 is ideal for Promix.
f) Use containers that are appropriately sized for your plant. Larger pots are better, will provide more soil to buffer pH swings. I like pots that are at least as wide as the plant leaves stretch. so a 3 foot tall plant can handle a 3 gallon pot.
Water at a pH no lower than 6.7. Even then, over a couple of weeks, you will see the pH of the effluent/run off will drop. You want the pH of the medium to be 6.3-6.7 after all is said and done. If you are watering at 6.7 and the pH of the effluent is coming out below 6.3, you are heading for trouble again.
Ensure you ALWAYS have 15-20% runoff from the bottom of the pot. This will stop nutrient buildup which causes the pH to crash, which is locking out Mg and causing your plant to suffer.
If you follow these simple steps you are on the road to recovery. You will see the new growth will start and become a light lime green at first near the tips, then gradually become darker. ALL of the current leaves on your plant are going to die over the next 2 weeks, but the new growth should be healthy. Don't worry about losing those leaves, it's to be expected at this point.
-Chimera
Thanks everyone for elaborating on this topic. I never knew the difference between medium-less and soilless until today that clears up a lot of confusion! I see sunshine 4 describes itself as soilless on the bag, I'm going to start raising the ph. Very interesting...
With all due respect: I think you have a smorgasbord of problems going on now
First water PH issues, then low PH/hi PPM numbers, massive flushes leading to over watering....and now the mix you used
There are a bunch of "ProMix" formulas on the market, most guys use HP or BX...there are basically an inert media without nutrients, and fairly high drainage products. The "ProMix" you chose both have organic slow release nutrients already in them, thus the "ready to use" description. They don't have very much perlite for drainage, and you're not controlling your nutrient levels when it a pre-nuted formula.
So you are using an organic nutrient media, while using a synthetic based nutrient base(GH 3 part)...the synthetic base will kill every bit of micro herd that exists in that pot...dead, done, nada.
First thing I would do is quit watering them, let them dry out a little...for the size of the plants & pot size, your watering wet circle around the tiny plant is huge. With a small root system it will take forever for her to use the water & she's drowning in a mud hole with no oxygen to the roots. The more/faster wet/dry cycles to can give the plant, the faster she will absorb the nutrients and grow healthy. She is very yellow from lack of nutrients and too much water, thus photosynthesis isn't developing chlorophyll (why leaves are green/dark green).
In the future look for HP Promix, raise your water PH to 6.5-6.7, only water enough for her to use it in 2-3 days. MJ is a very hearty plant, and very tough in environmental changes...your plants will recover if you quit trying so hard
Thank you for your response. I'm getting a few mixed pieces of info here though. I wrote that I added my own perlite. So that should not be a problem right? Perhaps you misread that.
I was told to flush my system to get the right PH. But you're saying "your watering wet circle around the tiny plant is huge"
I don't understand how I can accomplish one without disturbing the other.
But please, I would very much like these specific questions answered if you would be so kind:
1) From now on, what PH should I water at? I don't believe I can flush every single time to get the PH in check. What is the best way to proceed? Can I now continue to water at around PH 6.7-7 to keep things in optimal range?
2) Am i going to have to flush my medium every time i transplant due to the acid nature of the peat moss and high concentration of nutes to get things balanced before proper growth can continue?