simpleword
Active member
Joe A. Grower said:Well, "better" is kind of relative term. Cooltubes are a very energy efficient way of removing heat. Using the cooltubes will let you use less electricity. (Not an astounding amount, however. Your lights will still dominate the energy usage.) The downside is obviously dealing with the ducting for the tubes. All that ducting can also become a pain in the ass when you are trying to move lights around.
Another thing to consider is that cooltubes aren't the greatest at throwing a nice, even, efficient light pattern. Generally, standard hood fixtures do a better job. They restrict airflow more, though, and need a bigger fan to get the same cooling as a cooltube.
If you don't give a crap about a few extra bucks a month worth of electricity, then screw the cooltubes and just buy more AC and use standard, non-cooled light fixtures. It will make your life easier.
Yup and yup. You probably want two in the closet -- one for your intake and one for your output. Its better to direct the flow where you want it to go rather than letting the pressure from one fan push or pull the air wherever it wants to. (like through the unpatched hole that you left in the false wall to your growroom)
If it was for a heater, it is almost certainly a 240V circuit. If you look at the breaker in the box, if it is a "double pole" breaker (like two single breakers connected together), then it is a 240V circuit. I would recommend having your electrician friend run that line to a subpanel in your growroom. (this is a little "breaker box" like your big box). Have him wire up four 15A, 120V circuits for your lights (I assume your lights use 120V -- most do), and a single 15A, 240V circuit for your AC. Most AC units in the 15K BTU range or larger use 240V. If he's really nice, he'll wire up the plugs for you too.
The whole job wouldn't take me more than hour or two, and I suck as an electrician. If your buddy is a pro, he'll probably spend more time at Home Depot picking up the parts than he will wiring the thing.
This route sounds pretty convincing. I'm thinking more and more about going through with it. The only snag I see is mounting the AC. Any AC in that BTU range is 26 inches wide and requires 29 inches minimum width to install. We were planning on cutting the closet door down to a specific height and then mounting the AC in the resulting gap (framed of course). I'm not sure how wide the door is (roommate is sleeping in the room right now) but I'm pretty sure it's not 30 inches (judging from my closet door).
I'm not sure about mounting it in the wall, aren't there studs every 16 inches or so? The only option left might be the window, but that might be a little suspect running an AC in the middle of winter; although it is on the backside of the house, 4 feet from a high fence, and the neighbor in that direction is 300 feet away. However, I'm not sure that the window is even 30 inches wide. Also wouldn't there be a little light leak through the AC?
If I could go down to 12,000 btu then I'm sure I could fit it in the door. I could also possibly buy a 8-10k btu AC and stack it vertically with my existing 8,k btu AC.
I guess I'll keep looking at ACs and see what I can come up with.
Thanks again.
EDIT: I found an 18k BTU AC that's just over 23 inches wide and I'm pretty sure it will fit in the door. Hooray. I can't believe how simple this will make things.
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