C
CFL_Grow
Finally got something going on under the new 400
How close do you guys get the light ?
How close do you guys get the light ?
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mellow yellow
Member
close as u can, a good guide is put your hand over the top bud. If your hand is too hot so will your plants.
My 400 is cooltubed so mine are about 5" from the bulb.
My 400 is cooltubed so mine are about 5" from the bulb.
Greenstar420
Member
Hey guys id love to join the 4hundy club 
Just got a lumatek 400 a couple weeks ago, Going to be growing some meds in a 3x3 hydrohut mini. I was going to use a 250, but am working on a cool air intake so I can run a 400 instead. I'll get more pics up asap!
Just got a lumatek 400 a couple weeks ago, Going to be growing some meds in a 3x3 hydrohut mini. I was going to use a 250, but am working on a cool air intake so I can run a 400 instead. I'll get more pics up asap!mellow yellow
Member
Easy Green, I got a lumatek lovely bit of kit.
I grow in a dr80 cooltube my 400 really helps think i could even get anyway with a 600 in winter in the tube
I grow in a dr80 cooltube my 400 really helps think i could even get anyway with a 600 in winter in the tube
Chief Rbud
Active member
well i have my cab going now with a lumatek 400W switchable ballast. so i guess i'm finally joining the club! have some babies in veg now under a 4000k metal halide, and some more under cfl's. will flower with an 1800K hps of course, except the last couple of weeks. will get some pics up when it gets interesting, i haven't even sexed them yet.
mellow yellow
Member
Nice lights
Alright boys I am building a 400 cab now and going to use my 150 cab for veg cab and 400 cab for flowering while my buddy borrows my 600w tent setup.
My two best choices for cabs I have found leave me with two footprints. I can choose from 19"D x 36"W (4.75 sq ft and 84wpsf) or 19"D x 46"W (6 sq ft and 67wpsf). I am wondering what would be the best choice out of these two cabs for using a single 400w light?
Any help would be fantastic...keep up the good work boys!
My two best choices for cabs I have found leave me with two footprints. I can choose from 19"D x 36"W (4.75 sq ft and 84wpsf) or 19"D x 46"W (6 sq ft and 67wpsf). I am wondering what would be the best choice out of these two cabs for using a single 400w light?
Any help would be fantastic...keep up the good work boys!
Chief Rbud
Active member
the 2nd one in my opinion will be just fine. thats the size i have, well actually a half inch bigger in both directions, and with a metal halide i'm at the minimum lumens/square foot, but am above that with a HPS. i'm thinking of switching to the HPS even for veg, because with the metal halide on a very sat dom strain i'm getting internodes so tight im afraid i wont be able to take clones when the time comes.
Chief Rbud
Active member
yes i am, but i hate the time waiting for them to show sex. i sprouted way more than i needed to insure getting certain phenos so i could make beans if i get them, and currently don't have enough room in the flowering chamber for all of the babies. i wish the males would hurry up and flash me so i can get them out and fill up the cab with all girls.
Sounds good thanks for the reply. I figured probably the larger of the two would be better off because it is roughly 27% larger in floor area than the smaller one and I can rotate the plants around in the cab so they all get time under the sweet spot in the center of the cab. I have had good results doing that so far and have seen people get good results by moving plants around daily or so to allow all plants to end up with a nearly equal amount of time under the higher intensity light towards the center and also equal time in the less light intensity on the sides of the cab. I plan to run 5 plants in the 400 cab this round I have them vegging already at around 2 weeks old from seed I just need to finish up the 400 cab quick so that it is ready to go in 2-3 weeks when the plants have vegged long enough to be ready to flower. I plan to take clones and veg clone and mother plants in the 150 cab with some cfls in there too. Should be a nice perpetual 2 cab setup.
you might wanna take the best male and selectively pollinate - there's several good guides - once he shows a bit o sex, take em out, slice a branch, toss in water cup, surround with clear bag, and on top of glass, collect pollen, get q-tip and sacrifice a cpl buds
Has anyone ever attempted to seal the cab, exhaust only the hood (to and from the outside of the cab with ducting) and run CO2? Would radiant temps eventually build to intolerable levels? RH? There aren't any small CO2 enriched grows that I've seen on here, and I believe having to use an A/C would give me a shitty gram per (overall) watt ratio. Anyone with any experience on this matter? Thanks a bunch. OAM
None of the following is my work, please give credit where it's due!
I LOVE these links and believe that they are more useful than most books on the subject, please have a read. I have bolded in read and made VERY large text for the small bit you asked for. Links have been provided to said threads.
A Library of Links
Charts, graphs, and Illustrations:
Comparative plant sizes.
Energy in...............energy out.
Where "Wattage" = bulb wattage and "Diff. F*" = desired intake to exhaust temperature differential.
I wonder if Caligrower knows the extent his time and effort has paid off for the rest of us. The following CFM chart is based on the above heat transfer formula.
Absorption spectrum of various pigments
Reflective properties of various surfaces
MH and HPS Foot Candle charts.
MH and HPS PAR graphs.
Relative penetration for HPS lamps.
A typical incandescent SPD.
Red/Far-red ratio at End Of Day
Lamp Lumen Depreciation
Kelvin Color Temperature
Pot sizes and volume capacity.
Hydro and soil pH ranges.
A graph of carbon dioxide enrichment levels.
A reference for sound-damping
Cont'd...
Cont'd...
Ammo for the anti-prohibitionist.
Something for our outdoor brothers and sisters.
_________________________________________________
Common Ballast ANSI codes for HID lighting.
Mercury Vapor
H46 - 50 watt standard MV
H43 - 75 watt standard MV
H36 - 100 watt standard MV
H42 - 125 watt standard MV (European MV and some high pressure sodium lamps*)
H39 - 175 watt standard MV (Some high pressure sodium lamps*)
H37 - 250 watt standard MV (Some high pressure sodium lamps*)
H33 - 400 watt standard MV (Some high pressure sodium lamps*)
H36 - 1000 watt standard MV (Some high pressure sodium lamps*)
Low Pressure sodium
L69 - 18 watt LPS (SOX/SOX-E)
L70 - 35 watt LPS (SOX/SOX-E)
L71 - 55 watt LPS (SOX/SOX-E)
L72 - 90 watt LPS (SOX/SOX-E)
L73 - 135 watt LPS (SOX/SOX-E)
L74 - 180 watt LPS (SOX/SOX-E)
High Pressure Sodium
S76 - 35 watt standard HPS
S104 - 50 watt White SON
S68 - 50 watt standard HPS
S62 - 70 watt standard HPS
S105 - 100 watt White SON
S54 - 100 watt standard HPS
S55 - 150 watt (55 volt) standard HPS
S56 - 150 watt (100 volt) standard HPS (European SON/HPS lamps)
S66 - 200 watt standard HPS
S50 - 250 watt standard HPS (some metal halide*)
S51 - 400 watt standard HPS (some metal halide and European metal halide*)
SON AGRO - 430 watt SON
S106 - 600 watt standard HPS
S111 - 750 watt standard HPS
S52 - 1000 watt standard HPS
Metal Halide
M130 - 35/39 watt MH
M110 - 50 watt MH (standard and pulse start)
M85 - 70 watt MH (double-ended and BiPin lamps)
M98 - 70 watt MH (standard, pulse start, and operates some double - ended and BiPin lamps)
M139 - 70 watt MH (ceramic metal halide, some double - ended, and some BiPin lamps)
M90 - 100 watt MH (standard, pulse start, and operates some double - ended lamps)
M91 - 100 watt MH (double-ended and BiPin lamps)
M140 - 100 watt MH (ceramic metal halide, some double - ended, and some BiPin lamps)
M81 - 150 watt MH (double - ended and BiPin lamps)
M102 - 150 watt MH (standard, pulse start, and operates some double - ended and BiPin lamps)
M142 - 150 watt MH (ceramic metal halide, some double - ended, and some BiPin lamps)
M107 - 150 watt MH (energy saving probe start / Replaces 175 watt probe start lamps)
M137 - 175 watt MH (pulse start and some European lamps*)
M57 - 175 watt MH (standard probe start and some high pressure sodium lamps*)
M58 - 250 watt MH (standard probe start and some high pressure sodium lamps*)
M80 - 250 watt MH (double-ended and some European lamps*)
M138 - 250 watt MH (pulse start and some European bulbs*)
M59 - 400 watt MH (standard probe start and some high pressure sodium lamps*)
M135 - 400 watt MH (pulse start and some European lamps*)
M128 - 400 watt MH (pulse start lamps)
M47 - 1000 watt MH (standard probe start and some high pressure sodium lamps*)
M141 - 1000 watt MH (pulse start, double ended, and operates some European lamps)
M48 - 1500 watt MH (probe start lamps)
M133 - 1500 watt MH (pulse start, double-ended and some European lamps)
M134 - 2000 watt MH (pulse start - double-ended lamps)
*Note: Conversion bulbs
Not all lamps are compatible. Always check the lamp markings for the proper type ballast!
_________________________________________________________________
HID TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE
PROBLEM 1— LAMP WILL NOT START
POSSIBLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. No Power to Ballast
Check fuses or other causes of power outages.
2. Normal End of Lamp Life
Often the simplest procedure is to test the lamp in an adjacent fixture which is known to be operating properly and then replace as necessary. It should be kept in mind that series ballasts will occasionally extinguish the adjacent lamp if one is removed.
3. Lamp Loose in Socket
Inspect the lamp to see if there is any indication of arcing at center contact button. Tighten lamp to seat it properly. If base is distorted and will not seat properly in the socket, replace lamp.
4. Optical & Other Sensing Devices Inoperative
Replace sensing device. (Check this by covering sensing device to block out light while power is applied to fixture.)
5. Defective or Improper Wiring
Examine wiring to ensure it conforms with wiring diagram on the ballast label. Check primary wiring to ballast and from ballast to socket to establish circuit continuity. Check connections to see that they are secure. Check for under-sizing of wire gauge, resulting in lowered voltage. Repair circuit.
6. Voltage at Fixture Too Low
Measure line voltage at input of ballast. For most types of ballasts, measured line voltage should be within 10% of label rating. With many types of distribution systems, increased loading or demand decreases available voltage at the ballast primary. Therefore, ideally, a check should be made at full load. If tapped ballast, match ballast tap connection to supply voltage measured at ballast. Increase supply voltage if feasible. Verify that lamp to remote ballast distance is acceptable.
7. Incompatible Ballasting
Correct ballasting is essential for dependable HID lamp operation. Any HID lamp will perform erratically or fail to start on an incorrect ballast. Make sure that the ballast label data agrees with the line voltage and lamp used. Incorrect ballasting will generally cause a lamp to fail prematurely.
8. Defective Shorted Ballast
A shorted ballast will generally cause the seals at the end of the arc tube to rupture with an indicative blackening in the seal ring area. Shorted condition may be due to shorted capacitors, shorted leads or shorted winding. Replace components as required.
9. Improper Lamp Operating Position (Metal Halide Only)
The operating position should agree with the lamp specifications. A BU-HOR lamp can be operated base up, vertical to, and including the horizontal, and BD can be operated base down, vertical to, approaching, but not including the horizontal. A lamp operated beyond the specified position may not start and degrade lamp performance if it does start.
10. Lamp Has Been Operating : Cool Down Time Insufficient (Hot Restrike)
When HID lamps are operating and the supply voltage is cut or interrupted, the lamps will require a period of time to cool and re-establish optimum starting conditions. Bare mercury and metal halide lamps require from four to eight minutes cool down time. High pressure sodium lamps require approximately one minute to cool before restriking. In a luminaire, restart time varies with the degree of ventilation built into it, ambient temperature, and draft conditions. The time from cool to restartable condition can realistically range up to 20 minutes for mercury and metal halide lamps in tight luminaires.
11. High Restrike Voltage (Metal Halide Only)
This condition is peculiar to the metal halide lamp. It does not occur with mercury. If the supply voltage to a metal halide lamp is interrupted during the warm up period, the subsequent restrike voltage (voltage required to restart the lamp) may be higher than that required for a lamp which has been allowed to stabilize (come up to full output normally) or to cool down to normal room temperature.
12. Improper Ballast for Lamp Operating Conditions Environmental conditions such as extreme temperatures, high humidity and other factors affect ballast operation. Check lamp environmental operating conditions against published performance.
13. End of Ballast Life
The appearance or condition of a ballast may give a clue to whether it is good or not. If it is charred, it may have been subjected to sustained excessive heat. Swollen capacitors indicate trouble. Check with appropriate testers, ammeter, and voltmeter. Frequently, the failure mode of a ballast is capacitor failure with consequent low power factor operation and high current. This leads to overheating of the core and coil and eventual failure.
14. Defective Ignitor
Insure that the lamp is good. Disconnect the ignitor and install a specified test lamp. If the test lamp lights, the ballast is good but the ignitor is not. Replace ignitor. If the test lamp does not light, the ballast has most likely reached its end of life.
15. Mismatched Ignitor
Verify that the ballast and ignitor are matched according to the specifications. Replace if necessary.
16. Lamp Defects
Common defects that require the lamp to be replaced include:
* Arc tube leak
* Open welds
* Probe or cathode moly electrolysis
* Diode or switch shorted
* Quartz devitrification around rod
* Sodium leak
* Open diode
PROBLEM 2—LAMP LIFE IS REDUCED
POSSIBLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Lamp Physically Damaged
Investigate the possibility of outer bulb damage from handling or transportation that may have cracked glass. If air enters outer bulb, arc tube may continue to burn for 100 hours before failure. Check to see if the bulb is broken where glass meets the base due to twisting lamp too firmly into socket or scoring of glass where socket inadvertently touches the lamp bulb. Look for broken arc tube or loose metal parts. A leak in the outer bulb will cause oxidation of the metal parts inside. In high pressure sodium, the dark gettering material in the neck of the bulb near the base will turn white or disappear. Replace lamp.
2. Wrong Ballast
Make sure that the ballast label agrees with the line voltage and the installed lamp. The 1,000 watt Mercury lamp, for example, is made in the H34 (High Current) and the H36 (Low Current) types with a separate ballast available for each type. If the H34 ballast is used with the H36 lamp or vice versa, the life of the lamp will be adversely affected and can destroy the ballast. A similar situation exists with S55, S56 and S63 150 watt high pressure sodium lamps.
3. Lamp Operating in Incorrect Position
Either change positioning of fixture or replace lamp with one suitable for that position.
4. Faulty Capacitor
To check capacitor, disconnect and discharge it. Then, using an ohmmeter, set to the highest scale, check for faults, 1) if meter reads low resistance initially and increases, capacitor is good. 2) if meter reads low resistance initially and remains the same, the capacitor is SHORTED and should be replaced. 3) if meter reads high resistance initially and remains the same, the capacitor is OPEN and should be replaced.
PROBLEM 3— LAMP FLICKERS OR CYCLES ON AND OFF
POSSIBLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Wrong Ballast
With mercury lamps, improper ballasting can cause flickering or erratic operation. With metal halide lamps, the effect is generally noticed in the startup period when the lamp ignites, starts to warm up and then extinguishes (cycling). This may be caused by improper voltage/current relationships delivered by ballast. Under certain conditions new lamps may "cycle". Usually after three tries to start at 30 to 60 second intervals lamps will stabilize and operate normally.
2. High Lamp Operating Voltage/Low Open Circuit Ballast Voltage
Measure lamp operating voltage. Measure ballast open circuit voltage. Replace as required.
3. Variable Voltage
Heavy motor loads or welding appliances on line can cause flickering during operation. Remove lighting circuits from the circuits serving these devices. Provide voltage regulators. Check for loose connection. Use of Constant Wattage Isolated (CWI) ballasts not Constant Wattage Auto (CWA) can frequently help this situation.
4. HPS Cycler
As a high pressure sodium lamp is burned for long periods of time, its operating voltage tends to increase. When this point is reached, the lamp will exhibit cycling on and off characteristics. This is normal end of life lamp. Replace the lamp after checking ballast open circuit voltage and lamp operating voltage.
PROBLEM 4—LAMP STARTS SLOWLY (ARC DOES NOT STRIKE WHEN SWITCH IS TURNED ON.)
POSSIBLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Hard Starter
A hard starter is a lamp which will not start rapidly. It may glow for extended periods of time destroying cathodes. It should be replaced after checking voltage and ballast.
PROBLEM 5— FUSES BLOW OR CIRCUIT BREAKERS OPEN ON LAMP START UP
POSSIBLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Overloaded Circuit
Rewire to accommodate starting current of lamp/ballast combination.
2. High Momentary Transient Current
Can be caused by reactor or autotransformer ballasts which draw high initial currents. Use current protective devices incorporating time delay elements. If these fail, change ballast as its characteristics will affect lamp life.
PROBLEM 6—LAMP LIGHT OUTPUT LOW
POSSIBLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Normal Light Output DepreciationThroughout Life
Refer to maintenance characteristics of lamp in technical publications comparing light output vs. burning time. If depreciation is within published range, replace lamp.
2. Incorrect Voltage
Check ballast label to see if rating designation conforms to lamp rating description. Correct if necessary. Check line voltage at ballast and set ballast tap to voltage reading. If not tapped, check ballast voltage range against input voltage. Check wiring connections for voltage loss points. Check socket contact point. Use CWI ballast.
3. Incorrect Ballast Output
Check ballast output to determine if it conforms to lamp requirements. If voltage and current do not stabilize in five to ten minutes warm-up time, ballast output is incorrect and adjustment should be made. Check capacitor wiring, if visibly available, to determine if capacitors are properly wired.
4. Dirt Accumulation
Check and clean lamp and luminaire. Establish maintenance program.
5. Faulty Capacitor
Check capacitor rating to specification. Measure capacitance to specification using capacitance meter. Replace capacitor if necessary.
PROBLEM 7—ARC TUBE BECOMES BLACKENED OR SWOLLEN EARLY IN LIFE LAMP/ARC TUBE MAY SHOW SIGNS OF SCORCHING
POSSIBLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Overwattage Operation Improper Ballasting
Check for possibility that lamp is operated on ballast designed for higher wattage lamp. Overwattage operation can cause premature blackening. Check ballast label against lamp specification.
2. Excessive Current or Shorted Capacitor(s)
Check voltage at ballast. Check for possibility of current or voltage surges which can damage arc Voltage tube or seals or burn up connecting ribbons inside outer tube. Check for shorted capacitors and replace ballast if shorts are found.
3. Reflector Problem
Reflector design may refocus radiant energy directly on the arc tube or other parts of the lamp causing overheating. Limits for allowable voltage rise due to fixture effect are listed in High Pressure Sodium Engineering Bulletins. If this is suspected, the luminaire should be tested in a laboratory.
4. "Glow State" Operation
Under certain lamp and/or ballast operating conditions, lamps will go into a partial discharge (dim glow) which will darken arc tube and cause short life. Replace lamp and check ballast.
PROBLEM 8—DIFFERENCE IN LAMP COLORS
POSSIBLE CAUSE
CORRECTIVE ACTION
1. Normal Maintenance
In addition to the normal decrease in light output or brightness, a color shift can occur as lamps age. Spot replacement of failures with new lamps may show very noticeable differences in lamp colors. A group relamping program minimizes this problem.
2. Wrong Lamp Color
Check etch on lamps which appear different to see that they are actually the same color. Replace with correct color lamp.
3. Range of Manufacturing Tolerances
Due to tolerance ranges from manufacturers, slight differences in color can be corrected by grouping those of similar color.
4. Variations in Luminaires
Variations in the surface or finish of the reflectors and/or lenses can introduce color differences. Interchange lamps to check on possible luminaire differences. Dirty fixtures can also create differences, emphasizing the importance of adequate maintenance.
5. Variations in the Environment
In common with luminaire variations, color differences in ceilings, walls, floors and furnishings as well as other sources of illumination in the area can affect the appearance of the lamp color.
6. Faulty Capacitor
Check capacitor rating to specification. Measure capacitance to specification, using capacitance meter. Replace capacitor if necessary.
_________________________________________________________________
ICMAG'S OFFICIAL ~DIY~ LINK-O-RAMA
Compiled by Me (pontiac), Bounty29 and other ICmag Members
Complete for now, but please post more links...
This is a thread dedicated to all DIY (Do It Yourself) projects and tutorials posted by ICMAG members. Please post any link that consists of a DIY project/tutorial, and i'll add it to the main list.
==================================================
Link Count = 206
- Denotes dead links or destructed content -
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Cabinet/Small Closet/Tent/μCab Construction & Setup
Electrical/Other Utilities
- Tick's Sogg'n Box (Parts 1-4) Full Construction (Pontiac & Tick)
- New Ganja Boy's All in One μCab (Gantz & NGB)
- The Mills Pride Club (Sumo and Millspride Cab Users)
- Killabrown's 400w Tent (Killabrown420)
- DIY extend-a-closet GROW TENT (synthacide)
- Rubbermaid Tub Grow Boxes (Ambre)
- 250watt Stealth Medical Cabinet (TheGhost)
- "Monolith" Style Vegbox (Latitude18)
- Jumbo Stealth Grow [Multiple cabs] (badgr)
- 150w Tiny Bubbler System (Pipedream)
- DIY Flowering Cab; DIY Veg Cab (ShroomDr)
- DIY Rubbermaid Grow Tub (Red_Greenery)
- $60.00 4x4x6.5 Flowering Chamber [Tent] (OHenry)
- NGB style grow box [Very Detailed] (NOKUY)
- Sugabear's Den [Multiple Cabinet Construction] (sugabear_II)
- Yet Another NGB Style Cab [With Cool Tube] (DiscoDuck)
- Step by Step Stealth Rubbermaid Grow Tub (Blue_adept)
- Stealth Dresser Cabinet Construction (SativaDreams)
- Yet Another Stealth Dresser Cabinet (OldTimers)
- Very Detailed Stealth Dresser Chest Construction (justanotherbozo)
- Budget Grow Box Construction (hermanshooltz)
- Tick Style Sogg'n Box (cellardweller)
- Complete Mini-Fridge Cabinet Build (disfunktional)
- Stealth 600w All-in-One Metal Cab + Sound Dampening (FullMetalJacket)
- Hoover of Green: Genius Vacuum Cleaner μCab (tpyn)
Grow Room/Large Closet Setup
- DIY Flip Flop... or Electrical Light Mover (The Dopest)
- DIY Flip-Flop (kung pow!!!)
- DIY Thermostatic Fan Speed Controller (Harry Gypsna)
- How to Save $100 per Month on Your Electric Bill (nUt_jOb)
- Thermostat Controlled Outlets (The Dopest)
- DIY CO2 PPM Controller (bartender187)
- Plug n' Play Flip Flop Step by Step (00420)
Harvesting/Drying/Curing/Processing
- Framing to Finish 5400W Med-Grow (irie-i)
- Multiple room setup [God knows how many watts...] (sonoma)
- Underground Bunker; 2000w CoolTube Setup (BudBunker)
- 3 Rooms 4200w Recirculating Deep Water Culture (blazeoneup)
- Detailed Stealth and Hidden Grow Room Setup (blazeoneup)
- Large Closet Setup and Diary (bartender187)
- Step by Step Grow Closet Construction (ShantiShiva)
- Stealth Insulated Attic Build (Bender)
- Alumminum Grow Shed for Mother Plants (MrDanky)
- 16KW Commercial Setup from Start to Finish (micro gro)
- Another 16KW Setup [Basement] (LazyMan)
Hydroponic Related
- $31.00 Speed Dryer (OGrefugee)
- Very quick, quick dry method (StayHigh149)
- Hash processing method (vhGhost)
- Cannabutter In 7 Easy Steps (Haschishin)
- Cheap DIY Drying Trunk (BonsaiGrower)
- BHO for Dummies [Use Extreme Caution!] (Chiefsmokingbud)
- Hash Making Tutorial (Chiefsmokingbud)
- Oldtimer1's Homebuilt Hash Press - OG Save (Blynx & Oldtimer1)
- SCW's DIY Skuff Tumbler - OG Save (Blynx & SCW)
- DIY Bubble Buckets (smily)
- Watering Curing Tutorial (Texas Kid)
- Step-by-Step: Ice Hash (Rolling_Stoned)
- "Bolt Hash" Processing Technique (Pactivist)
- Hash Press for Under 20 Bucks (Pipedream)
- Peat's DIY Tumbler (Peat)
- Beer Bottle BHO (Maximo)
- Famous Showtime Rotisserie Converted to Hash Tumbler (doobieduck)
- Peat's DIY Trimming Machine (Peat)
- A Perfect Cure Every Time (simon)
Hydroponic System Construction
- DIY Res Chiller (The Dopest)
- Clean up a Dirty Res (The Dopest)
- Tools for Easy Res Draining (doobieornot2be & Others)
- TAG - Landing (Resource for True Aero Growing) (POD RACER)
- Budget DIY Res Chiller (dr. umido)
- How to Make a PVC Dripper Manifold (pico)
- Cheap Water Filtration System (Pipedream)
- DIY Simple Runoff Tables (smurfin'herb)
Lighting/Reflectivity
- One for the newbs: cheap and simple hydro, but very effective (Dr. D)
- Recirculating Dwc Construction Tutorial (Blazonup)
- Multiflow Ebb n' Flow System (GoldDustWomen)
- DIY Cabinet Size Ebb & Flow (northcoastmed)
- BigTokes ~ "How-To" Of The Bio-Buckets 101 (Bigtoke)
- Vertical octagon diy parts list and how to guide (El Blastido)
- DIY Vertical Cooler System (GoldDustWomen)
- DIY Aeroponic tutorial. plus a 4 strain grow (Tbug)
- Gutters: more then just rain management [NFT] (fuzygrowth)
- DIY mobile ebb and flow (fuzygrowth)
- Vertical Areo [Page 6 for construction pics] (betterboy)
- DIY Ebb and Flow $50! Instructions Step by Step (Levitikuz)
- DIY Ebb & Grow / Multi-Flow Controller Tutorial (OgreSeeker)
- Krypto's Ultimate Controller (Krypto)
- Unique and Simple Ebb & Flow System (Anima)
- DIY Fiberglass Reinforced E&F Table (kaljukajakas)
- Aeroponics Tutorial (Pirate)
- Scalable Recirculating SWC System (Blunt69)
- DIY Aeroponics Kit (lurkmaster)
- Under Current Culture System Construction (overbudjet)
Miscellaneous
- Tick's $15 Batwing Reflector (StankBud & Tick)
- DIY CoolTube [Lantern/Lamp Shade Type] (User Name)
- DIY CoolTube [Glass Cylinder/Corning Bake-a-Round Type] (Lemon)
- ~DIY~ Octagonal Reflector (Pontiac & Unknown OG member)
- Convert a Low bay/security HID into a remote ballast growlight (Harry Gypsna)
- converting a home security light into a remote ballast grow light [the OG FAQ] (SugarBear_II)
- 150w HPS Club [OG continuation] (pipedream and others)
- 400w Light Club (Young Giver and others)
- Converting an HPS Ballast into a Switchable MH/HPS Ballast (northcoastmed)
- Excellent DIY Aircooled Reflector (I2KanGrow)
- MrE's Compact Hood with Integral Light Trap - OG Save (Blynx & Mr. E)
- Homemade HPS reflector for under $10 USD - OG Save (Blynx & Slowhand)
- My Kick Ass Hood Design - OG Save (Blynx & Y_Not_Bud)
- Homemade Air-Cooled Reflector - OG Save (Blynx & Just A Tree)
- Air-cooled Hood for HPS-150 Construction - OG Save (Blynx & Chpon)
- Designing an Air-Cooled Reflector - OG Save (Blynx & Jackerspackle)
- Building a Floro Tube Setup - DIY (bounty29)
- DIY – 400w MH Ballast Kit! (Rolling_Stoned)
- DIY light trap (Blue_adept)
- DIY CoolTube + Reflector [Lantern/Lamp Shade Type] (Quazi)
- DIY Reflector on the Cheap (hoosierdaddy)
- Wiring TG11 Socket Remote CFL Lamps (Hydro-Soil)
- DIY HID/CFL Combination Reflector (Cozy Amnesia)
- Massive 8ft 624w CFL Hood/Reflector (Elite)
- Fluorescents in Overdrive (DrunkenMessiah)
- Vertical CoolTube Design [Lamp Shade Type] (hoosierdaddy)
- DIY Remote Ballast 42w CFL (grouchy)
Nutrient Formulas
- 1Toke's DIY Tinkerer's lounge (1TokeRedeux)
- Thermocouple Replacement Tutorial [for CO2 generators] (irie-i)
- DIY - Emergency Pipe Repair (Ordinary Joe)
- DIY Sulfur Burner for Dummies (Pirate)
- Homemade CO2 Injection System (superpedro)
Odor Control
- How to Make Your Own Nutrient Solutions (sproutco)
- LUCAS Formula (Lucas)
- Lucas Formula Modified for Coco Medium (Grat3fulh3ad)
- Approximate Lucas Formula for DRY GH Nutes (Octavian)
Outdoors Related
- DIY pro style carbon filter (RM - aquagrower & SunIsShining)
- Simple Scrubber (Haps)
- Build a Carbon Scrubber For Dummies (DurbanPoison)
- Vaportek [Not DIY but an excellent odor control device] (Rezdog and others)
- Panasonic Whisper Fan Carbon Scrubber (Bulénath)
- Micro Carbon Scrubber (sugabear_II)
- $30 DIY Carbon Filter (bounty29 & Ryoko)
- How to Turn a Hepa Filter into a Carbon Scrubber (brainthor)
- How to Turn a Duct Silencer into a Carbon Filter (manitu)
Paraphernalia Related
- Outdoor Stealth Trash Can ScrOG (NOKUY)
- Making Cages to Keep Animals Away from Plants (JJScorpio)
- Dirt Cheap & Easy Greenhouse (hanuman)
Photography/Microscopy
- Blunt Rolling Tutorial (R.I.P. Overgrow)
- Simple Bong Builds for Under $12 [w/ built-in diffusers] (TBug)
- Make a Glass Diffuser w/ 2 Tools You Probably Have (Shafto)
- How to Make a Wood Ganja Pipe (in Ten Easy Steps) (Endo)
- Poorman's Herb Grinder (Ordinary Joe)
- CannaCrisps: Edible Kief Laced Treats (Pipedream)
- How to Make a Bamboo Bong (DiscoBiscuit)
Propagation
- Radioshack Microscope (Double_gulp and others)
- How to Build a Light Box for Shooting Buds [Brilliant!] (M0nkey)
- DIY SuperMacro lens for under $10 (clowntown)
Soil/Soil-less Related
- Germination Tips (Big Bud Bear & ICmag members)
- DIY Aero Cloner the EZ-Cloner Replica in 10 Easy Steps (KingRalph)
- How to Make a Cloner for FREE [Very Effective] (Pontiac)
- A cheap hydro cloner (Flowerman)
- Cheap-ass wick cloner/seedling grower for 4 starter plugs (SugarBear_II)
- Micro Bubble Cloner (POMH)
- DIY Fogger Cloner (fuzygrowth)
- $40, 80W 4-ft fluoro mother and clone tent (OGpurp)
- Step by step bubble cloner set up [good for newb cloners] (Cortez)
- Super Cheap Mass Cloner (Grat3fulH3ad)
- ALL ABOUT BONSAI MOMS [OG recovery] (guerilla1018)
- Make a Cloner for Almost Nothing (budleydoright)
- UltraSonic Fog Cloner (Merman)
- Bubble Cloner for Micro Growers (Thundurkel)
- Post Your DIY Cloner [Tons of DIY Cloners!] (ICmag Members)
- Step by Step Power Cloner (Rumpleforeskin)
- Cloners- a collection of various methods (FreezerBoy)
Training/Breeding/Nursing
- Moonshine mix (mysta177 & Moonshineman)
- Unofficial Coco Coir Growers Thread (Coco Nuts & others)
- Various Soil Mixes (Fredster and others)
- MrSoul's Soiless Mix & MrSoul's Guano Tea (I.M. Boggled & MrSoul)
- Build Your Own Worm Bin (gramsci.antonio)
- Homemade Grow Bags (blynx)
- Dirt Cheap Worm Bin (ehonda187)
Ventilation/Atmosphere Control
- The Complete guide to Sick Plants (MyNameStitch)
- DIY Modular PVC SCROG trellis (pico)
- How to Reveg (medicaluser420)
- DIY Colloidal Silver Generator [For Seed Feminization] (PhenoMenal)
- Male Isolation Chamber (JLP)
- An Overview of Cannabis Training (Quazi)
- Understanding the Art of LST (Quazi)
- A Complete Guide to Topping, Training and Pruning (Kodiak)
- How To Store Seeds for Years (EmpireSeeds)
- LST and Prune for No Popcorn (simon)
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- DIY CoolTube (User Name)
- Stanley Blower Fan Mod [250cfm+ for under $50] (The Dopest)
- Air cooled lights: the right way (badmf)
- DIY Vent Fan Muffler (treehuggers)
- Ultra Cheap Exhaust Fan [$10] (Ordinary Joe)
- Venting Through a Roof (The Mole)
- How to Make an AC Box (JJScorpio)
- DIY Humidifier/Chiller for Small Grows (jcj77d)
- DIY Mini AC for Cabinets (kelimmo)
- Crash Course in Airflow (hoosierdaddy)
- Exhaust Muffler from Recycled Shipping Materials (TroubleGuy)
- Ventilation 101 (redgreenry)
- Soler & Palau 100x Wiring Guide (KickNader)
- Fan Vent Muffler for Micro Setups (Cozy Amnesia)
- DIY DarkRoom Louvers (ScrubNinja)
- DIY Fan Muffler with O3 Generator (kovenant & Nubie Biatch)
Other Link Compilation Threads
Cheap DIY Grow Supplies
- Compilation of Designs and Construction Journals (bounty29)
- Links To ScrOG Grows (Underground Man)
- Salvaged Original OverGrow GrowFAQ [outside of icmag.com] (Drugs-Forum.com)
- International Cannagraphic FYI Thread Links [Valuable Info] (I.M. Boggled)
- Overgrow Document Collation [Downloadable File] (shithappens)
- Affordable and Durable Ebb & Flow/Drip/NFT Trays [Various Sizes] (Pontiac)
- Super Strong and Cheap Net-Pot Alternative for DWC [Locally Available] (Pontiac)
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^^^Qualifying threads will now get the stamp of approval.
***Note- threads with
thanks for all of the great links
basspirate
Member
Hey folks, quick question; I am trying to decide between a 400w mh/hps and a 250 mh/hps
my first round will be in a closet that I /can not/ cut any holes in for extra ventilation but will be able to fit in an oscilating fan. after that i will be in a 20x36x64 tent.
is the 400 going to throw off a ton more heat? I /will/ at least be able to keep the ballast outside of the clost/tent
i welcome sermons about ventilation, but i don't have any other options right now. i will have a 4" inline fan/filter once i move into the tent...but what about in a closet that is maybe 7' tall and 3.5 ft square?
thank you for humoring my nubile-ness.
my first round will be in a closet that I /can not/ cut any holes in for extra ventilation but will be able to fit in an oscilating fan. after that i will be in a 20x36x64 tent.
is the 400 going to throw off a ton more heat? I /will/ at least be able to keep the ballast outside of the clost/tent
i welcome sermons about ventilation, but i don't have any other options right now. i will have a 4" inline fan/filter once i move into the tent...but what about in a closet that is maybe 7' tall and 3.5 ft square?
thank you for humoring my nubile-ness.
alwaystoned_1
Member
heres my super silver haze x white rhino grown under a 400w yeilded just under 14 1/2 oz
basspirate
Member
thanks stank, it's a pretty big closet, but I just don't have any idea what kind of heat its gonna throw off. I will have a pretty big oscillating fan (one on a stand that one would typically use in a bedroom on a hot summer night), but for all I know it'll just push the heat around. I'll be running some autos for the first run, so I guess I can keep the door open as much as possible.
