3500K 8 cob 3590 light 1.4 amps

[Ichabod Crane]

To get started on making the power box the first thing you will need is some templates. I made these out of a three by five card. I simply cut them to fit tight around the out lets. You will need two types of out lets to build it like I did. The first is a C-14 out let. It is the same outlet used on a ballast or for computers. To give you a idea of what that is and the template I used take z gander at this.



In the above you see both templates I used. The one on the right is for a 110 outlet. The outlet I used is this one.



Look at the outlet to the right you can see some mounting clips. They are for thin metal boxes and will not work for us. So these must be cut off before you make your template. I wedged a razor knife between the part that will be exposed and the clips and and twisted to slice them off. In the end the outlet will look like the one on the left.

After you have the templates done and the 110 outlet prepared it is time to mark the box. I made mine so that the 110 came out between the two C-14 outlets. So the C-14 come out to the side of the light and the 110 to the end. Using the template I centered the outlets on there side and gave them a even amount from the bottom and marked them. So I ended up with this.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

To now cut these out I used this tool. It is a roto zip for those who dont know what it is.



You can plunge cut with it but I find it easier to drill a starter hole with the step drill bit we used to cut the holes for the glands.



Remember to get a good fit you must remove all of the line that is on the box. I find it easier to set the roto zip at the lowest speed when cutting. Pay attention to which way cuts best. clock wise or counter clock wise.

Have one of the outlets near by and when it is close try to stick it into the hole. If it fits you are done. If not try to tell where you need to take more off. I have to do this 3 or 4 times. But in the end this is what I ended up with.



At this point I placed the C-14 outlet in the holes and marked them. Then I removed the outlet and drilled 1/8" holes into the marks. Now I have this.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

Now it it time to drill for the 2 glands. They are done just like for the control box.

When you have finished you will have 2 gland holes on one side of the box and the 110 out let directly across from the glands on the other side. The side with the glands and the side with the 110 outlet will also have the mounti8ng holes for the power box. The other two sides will have one C-14 outlet each.

Now to prep the outlets to insert them into the power box. This is how you will wire the C-14 outlet.



And this is how it looks wired.



The 110 is also wired the same way.

What do to wire them is solder some 16 gauge wire to the prongs. I use these clamps to hold the outlets in place.



Once you have the wires soldered to the outlets go ahead and use the liquid tape on the wire ends.



Let the tape dry and we will be onto the next step.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

The next step is mounting the outlets. To mount the C-14 you will need M3 x 10mm screws and these nuts.



It is kind of a pain but that is what you use. The nuts barely come into the box but that is a good thing.



When you tighten the nuts the out side of the box will look like this picture.



Now the 110 outlet is mounted differently. Since there are no holes for screws and the clips are removed you will need to glue it. I used this glue.



Any model glue that is used for plastic should work. Just run it around the back side of the outlet were it contacts the box and stick it in. I had to hold mine in for a few seconds till it stayed in place.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

Tomorrow we will go over the rest of the wiring in the boxes and maybe the cobs.

 

[Roasty McToasty]

Looks expensive, but very nicely done.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

Looks expensive, but very nicely done.

The frame with the control boxes, rivets, metal, bolts, paint, potentiometers, switches, ect, is about $130-$150. This does not include drivers, cobs, heat sinks, cob mounts, or any of the stuff I purchased at Pacific Light Concepts. That was about another $675.

So total cost of about $800-$850 for the 8 cob light I am building.

To me it is well worth the extra to enclose the wires and have the extra outlets and switches.

I like detachable cords and by using one of the 8 million ballast cords sitting around here I save a few bucks there. But I know I wont jerk the light around when I step on it or get tangled in it.

Also with the jumper set up I can use one timer for up to about 4 of these lights. Which means I need less available outlets. And no tangle of cords all over the place.

Sure I probably did not need the dual on/off switches or the dual dimming. But that is cheap if you consider the overall cost. The switches are about $3 each. The potentiometers were about $6 each with the knob which was I think $5 for 10.

 

[Roasty McToasty]

Ya man, my 8 3590's rig costed me ~$900 and i got raped over coals by Mouser on the first 4 i bought. I got a much better deal from Cutter on the second 4. I like what your doing and the cost for what your doing is worth it imo. PLC is a great source as well. Your rig will serve you well.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

where the hell have I been? subbed.

Nice gallery, very detailed.

I have the new light done now. Will be finishing the build soon.

 

[Ichabod Crane]

I wanted to run led on the last, but the cost is up the ass. I promised myself id build a my own for the veg room when I have time and space. I gotta check the prices in my warehouse for the fittings you posted, I might be able to help you out with some of that stuff if ya need more...

Veg is the best place to start with LEDs. They use less power and veg runs for more hours per day.

 

[megayields]

excellent thread VERY helpfull......thanks "Sticky Icky"

 

[AvidLerner]

I wanted to run led on the last, but the cost is up the ass. I promised myself id build a my own for the veg room when I have time and space. I gotta check the prices in my warehouse for the fittings you posted, I might be able to help you out with some of that stuff if ya need more...

buy a cob and holder, a heat sink and get one of these for your cxb3590 36v, works great. ->http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...909d257&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=261889756872
they are $12/ea. CoB w/holder and HS $65 maybe $75 you got an LED fixture going. peace
Avid

 

[megayields]

need more info....pics too

 

[megayields]

buy a cob and holder, a heat sink and get one of these for your cxb3590 36v, works great. ->http://www.ebay.com/itm/10W-20W-30W...909d257&pid=100005&rk=3&rkt=6&sd=261889756872
they are $12/ea. CoB w/holder and HS $65 maybe $75 you got an LED fixture going. peace
Avid

damn you...you made me go to eBay....this looks totally ghetto..I LOVE IT!

 

[Dion]

If there is enough interest I was thinking of doing a thread on the building of this light.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=68047&pictureid=1616887]View Image[/url]

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=68047&pictureid=1616888]View Image[/url]

What you see above in the first picture is the bottom of the light. The second picture is the top of the light. The next picture is the light on as view from the top.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=68047&pictureid=1616890]View Image[/url]

Finally you see in the last picture the controls of the light.

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=68047&pictureid=1616889]View Image[/url]

To the left are two switches that turn one side on or off. Each switch controls four cobs. To the right are dimmer switches that also control four cobs from one side. So I can turn one side off and dim the other, or turn both sides off, or dim both sides at the same time.

The box on the left also has two c-14 outlets that accept c-13 plugs like on a ballast. There is also a regular 110 outlet.

The two blue boxes in the center are the drivers. Each is a 1.4 amp LSD driver. They run four 3590 cobs at 49 watts. If you look at these drivers you will see that I marked a circle with a line threw it. These drivers were made wrong and wont dim. But they work fine at full power.

It will do a area 2.5x5 feet at about the same light intensity as a DE fixture will. But it covers only half the area. Two of these will cover a 5x5 foot area withe the same light intensity as a 1000 watt DE. But this light will do it with less heat and only about 850 watts. It does not require a 12 foot ceiling to use. It only needs to be about 18 inches from your plants.

If you guys are interested let me know.

Materials needed for this light.

qty item
100 M3 x 10 mm screws
1 3/4" x 7" x 1/8 piece of aluminum (drill jig)
1bx Pan head screws #6 x 7/16"

100 M3 x 8 mm screws
8 3590 cob holders
8 Heat sinks

4 46 inch tracks
4 48 inch track covers
1 Can of primer

1 Can flat black semigloss paint
100 #6 x 1/2" bolts and nuts
100 1/8" x 1/4" aluminum rivets

100 #8 washers
4 1.5" x 20.25" x 1/8" flat aluminum
2 1" x 11" x 1/8" flat aluminum

2 1" x 8.5" x 1/8" flat aluminum
2 4" x 4" x 2" junction box
6 PG9 gland

2 C-14 outlet
1 110 push in outlet
2 1/4" shaft knob

2 100k potentiometer
2 on/off switches
4 1/4" x 5" eyebolts with 3 nuts each

2 1.4 amp drivers
2 10k ohm resisters
10 ft black 16 gauge stranded wire

10 ft white 16 gauge stranded wire
10 ft green 16 gauge stranded wire
1 roll electrical solder

1 liquid tape or electrical tape

i love the use if the junction box, keeps the dimmer and cables neat for sure

 

[wildgrow]

I have the new light done now. Will be finishing the build soon.

Jk man.

 

[rykus]

Cool build, can't wait to hear how it does!

 

[packerfan79]

So Mr. Crane how is the led working out?

 

[maxmurder]

lets see some plants man

 

[Ichabod Crane]

Soon maybe I am setting up a flower room for them.