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3 weeks 12/12 - Problems yes, what? I don't know. Please help.

DrBeeper

New member
My second grow here and Things are taking a turn for the worse, again. Yellowing Is starting. The reason I'm nervous and seeking help Is because, my other attempt at growing failed bad, and It all started with the same signs as I'm seeing now.

The strain Is Blue Moonshine X LUI - 2002 edition

Exactly 3 weeks flower

Soil mix Is: one bag FFOF, one bag FF Planting mix (red bag), one bag Light Warrior, and 5 gallons chunky perlite. Nothing else added.

This Is a clone, planted directly into a 4" pot, then to a 6" pot, then to a 3 gallon pot, then doubled potted into a 10 gallon pot.

I started LST when it was in the 3 gallon pot, and when I repotted into the 10 gallon pot I added a screen for SCROG.

Liquid Kharma was used sparingly (at 5ml per gallon) In the begining of her life, and then more frequently (still 5ml per gallon) to the point of every watering. CalMag was started (5ml per gallon) 2 weeks before switch and Is being used every watering. Both LK and CalMag are now used every watering at 5ml per gallon.

At two and a half weeks of 12/12 she recieved her first taste of bloom nutrients, 15ml of PBP-Soil formula. So the pics below are three days after first feeding and one week after yellowing started.

PH goes in at 6.3 to 6.8 the run off has not been tested (batteries in the hannah are dead)

She Is under a 400w Air cooled, temps never exceed 28c (82F)

Oh and I water 2 gallons every two days. Sorry for the long post. Let me know If I'm forgetting any other important details. Thank you.

PS Shoot I'm going to upload the pics then post.

PSS I'm new
 

scegy

Active member
looks like lack of phosphorus or probably too much of it(burned tips), can't be lack of N because the older lower leaves are not effected

P deficiencies make your stems purple....check how much P is already in ur soil mix, maybe you added bloom ferts too soon.

i'd feed them with water only for a couple of weeks, maybe a flush wouldn't hurt if your drainage is OK

p.s.
i also noticed that you haven't added lime, what are the pH values of the soils u mixed? you should definetly check your runoff, don't be lazy and go buy those batteries!

p.s. #2
you said you water every 2 days, do you let your soil get completely dry? do you let the girls tell you when they'r thirsty?(wilting) those marks on the lower leaves could also mean that you'r overwatering
check the complete guide to deficiencies too ;)

look

"Liquid Kharma was used sparingly (at 5ml per gallon) In the begining of her life, and then more frequently (still 5ml per gallon) to the point of every watering. CalMag was started (5ml per gallon) 2 weeks before switch and Is being used every watering. Both LK and CalMag are now used every watering at 5ml per gallon."

this is definetly too much nutes, you should use the ferts once a week at most, FLUSH MAN! mineral ferts must be used gently and wisely, you will ruin ur crop like this

good luck
 
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G

Guest

Hey Doc,

Scegy hit it - you NEED DOLOMITE LIME... ASAP.

Remember soil is not like hydro, so it doesnt matter what pH (within reason) your water is at when you soak her. It only matters what the root zone pH is at - and if you add dolomite (1tbsp per gallon of soil) the pH will be 6.5, right on the money.

Based on your feedings this is obviously a pH lockout. I also use FFOF and if dolomite is not used the pH will begin to drop quickly as I add nutrients to the soil... get that dolomite in there and save these ladies!
 

DrBeeper

New member
Well Thank you for the help guys. I will definitely not use any nutrients for a week or two. Drainage Is outstanding I would say. I will wait longer to water. Maybe three or 4 days between waterings? The pot Is huge and heavy as it is, so It's hard for the lift the pot method.

Last go around I used Dolomite Lime, and I guess I added too much (2cups per bag of soil). PH of the runoff water was always over 7, never more than 7.5, and no matter how low the PH was when It went In the runoff was always real high.

This time I figured with the FFOF, Planting Mix, and Light Warrior, as long as I put the water in the pot at a PH of 6.5 The PH would always be in the safe zone. I guess I'm wrong. How do I get dolomite lime In there now?
 

DrBeeper

New member
Oh and I'll get the batteries for my PH meter tonight, It will be a couple more days until I can test the runoff because, I'm going to let her get real dry In the root zone.
 

scegy

Active member
well i don't know for coco, but in soil you add 1-2 table spoons per gallon, well u gotta check how much they actually drink, no other way around it :)
good luck
 

Blackvelvet

Member
After about 3 weeks the ferts in ocean forest begin to run out. You should begin adding ferts to your water. 16.67 ml pbp bloom for soil + 5.8 ml cal mag plus per gallon of water applied everytime you water. Make sure you get alot of runoff out the bottom. Adjusting the ph of the fert water after mixing prevents surprises. Around ph 6 is a good number to aim for.
 

DrBeeper

New member
I fill up my gallon jugs with tap water, PH adjust, add nutrients to the jug, shake real good, and then fill the pot.

What I should be doing Is PH adjusting after I add nutrients to the water?
 

Blackvelvet

Member
How to test ph: Water fert well till runoff. Wait 30 minutes. Apply some distilled water to the pot surface till only 1 ounce of runoff occurs. CAtch this on a saucer. Test this ph. If you can tilt the pot after water/fert and waiting 30 minutes and get some liquid out, you can test that instead.

Don't add dolomite lime unless your ph is low. Your adding cal mag to the water and its in the regular ferts so its not a priority... Especially if your adjust the fert water ph after mixing. If ph is low and you need to raise it, try 1 teaspoon powdered dolomite lime per gallon of soil mix. WAter in. Discontinue extra cal mag plus in the water.

You were constantly adding calcium and magnesium without potassium. You may be seeing potassium deficiency with the burnt leaf tips.
 
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DrBeeper

New member
The brown tips and yellowing is spreading throughout all the leaves above the screen now. What is going on here? how can I stop this??????
 

DrBeeper

New member
More pics, 25 days, how do i stop the dying?

More pics, 25 days, how do i stop the dying?

More pics. she Is dry and ready for distilled water tonight.






 

DrBeeper

New member
PH

PH

So I took a 1/4 cup of soil from the bottom of the rootball and mixed It with 1/4 cup of distilled water and the PH has been holding steady at 6.2

I measured the distilled water before the experiment and It was holding steady at 7.0.

So why are the plants leaves turning yellow and dying off????? what do I do?

Is It overwatering? Heat maybe? 85F at conopy. Overfert? It has to one of those right? Is it a deficinecy

Thank you In advance for any help!!!!!!

DrB
 

scegy

Active member
well dude, give us some info of pH, ur pot sizes, did u transplant before putting them to 12/12? shit like that

test, else u'll fuck up
 

DrBeeper

New member
PH Is 6.2 at rootball. I used 1/4 soil cut from bottom of rootball mixed with 1/4 distilled water. Measured with a Hanna PH pen that was just calibrated. Distilled water measured perfect 7.0 before test.

I transplanted from a 3 gallon container into a 10 gallon container with the double pot method 20 days before switch.
 
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scegy

Active member
well u see that could still mean that you have a lack of Ca and Mg, you should pour some distilled water through the soil and capture that water that comes out of the bottom and measure it's ph

besides 6.2 in soil means too low, best for soil is ~7

if you have enough place in ur pots for your roots, and u'r sure u'r not overwatering and u'r sure u haven't used dolomite lime....than i'm almost 100% sure that u need some dolomite lime there, apply it on the top of the coco/soil (1-2 table spoons per gallon of medium) and just water the flowers as usually

that's the best i can give now, maybe if you give us a picture of your root ball if you can, it would help

85 deg is pretty much man, specially in flowering when the roots stop growing....overwatering and high temps can cause root rot...in soil, but it's probably pretty much the same in coco as it is in a well saturated soil

p.s.

20 days before switch huh? well there's a chance they overgrew that pot, but just to be sure, TAKE A LOOK AT UR ROOTS, take a photo if you will

and if there's everything OK, add lime
 
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DrBeeper

New member
I double potted them when I did the switch. Which means I cut 1/3 of the three gallon pot off the bottom (I did not harm or break up the root ball that was exposed) and transplanted into a ten gallon pot. the roots have filled the 10 gallon pot and they are healthy and not rotting. They are also white and have the fuzzy look to them. If the plant Is root bound would that be the cause of the yellowing.

I don't think I let the whole root ball dry up before watering. could this be the cause?

Is my PH so low that it's causing a deficiency?

BTW, this yellowing and dying off problem Is only effecting the top of the plant.
 

scegy

Active member
well if you water when feel that the bottom of the pot is still wet...then yes, you'r making anaerobic conditions

ph is soil should be around 7 really, works best, try to trust me on this one
that is why i'm telling you this is a pH problem, if your plant needed something they would have shown in their lower leaves( NPK deficiencies), but this is a matter of Mg and Cal which are a major factor in pH issues

why aren't the lower leaves effected? because they still have some mg and cal stored, but it can't be transported to upper new shots...when it does get transported...u'r plants will probably be near death( totally yellow plant)

i recently found out that Cal effects on what nutrients plant's cells can uptake, lack of Cal make them hard to uptake Mg for photosynthesis and that leads to a bunch of other deficiencies...so, measure ur pH again, as i told you, don't take the soil again, just pour some destilled water on the top and catch it in the bottom

get ur ph as close to 7 as possible, then water with plain water and wait for a week to see some changes before u add any kind of nutes or additives

try to lower your temps(additional fan) !

as soon as u see burned tips on ur leaves, stop feeding, and give them just water untill they show you they need more ferts
 

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