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3 days in flower. Nutrient deficiency or what?
- Thread starter krompir
- Start date
Thnx for advices pinecone. I did what you sayed with egg shells .I diluted them in vinegar and add it to water.Next watering im going to try it 
. Btw i found some molasses in kitchen and im wondering is it any good? I see a lots of growers use it to feed the soil.And i see that it contains a lot of calcium and magnesium so i wonder is it good for calcium add too?
Ill put some pictures later in day 13 of flowering for you ICMagers to say how is it looks for day 13. Buds started to grow all over the place
. Btw i found some molasses in kitchen and im wondering is it any good? I see a lots of growers use it to feed the soil.And i see that it contains a lot of calcium and magnesium so i wonder is it good for calcium add too? Ill put some pictures later in day 13 of flowering for you ICMagers to say how is it looks for day 13. Buds started to grow all over the place
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Member
Looking real good. I have been running all perlite hempy buckets and I haven't had any problems with salt buildup or anything. I just feed lightly (6ml/Gal Flora Nova Bloom) every time I water.
Well.. it doesn't look like you're going to need more nitrogen. I would bet you'll have increased the maturation time of these current ladies already.
Have you thought about using LST to bend those stems over... sort of a canopy over your scrog? The buds have stretched quite a bit from the excess nitrogen and the bottom buds will end up pretty larfy. Bending them over and tying them together should allow you to drop the light, getting more light to the scrog canopy, allowing more of the buds to be in premium lighting.
Stay Safe!
Have you thought about using LST to bend those stems over... sort of a canopy over your scrog? The buds have stretched quite a bit from the excess nitrogen and the bottom buds will end up pretty larfy. Bending them over and tying them together should allow you to drop the light, getting more light to the scrog canopy, allowing more of the buds to be in premium lighting.
Stay Safe!
S
SeaMaiden
The first one is better, and be ready to add more K. If I recall, for good cannabis flowering we want something like a 1-2-3 ratio. You definitely want some additional P & K, and less and less N as they near the end of their lives, especially if you want a nice fade at the end.Hi me again
I have one question i have 2 fertilizers at home.Im useing one with 4-7-7 ratio now in flowering ,the other one has 5-12-1 ratio. Wich one is better for flowering ? thnx for answers.Ill put some pictures today .Its 3 weeks in flowering
Hydro makes some good points about getting those lower bud sites more light and evening out the canopy.
thnx hydro-soil and seamaiden
So you suggest i stop fertilizing with this 4-7-7 fertilizer?
I fertilized them only 1 time in flower with half of dose.
And i added some mollases last time a watered her.
I didnt fertilized her more then 2-3 times in veg neither.
I was thinking about some LST but looks like she stoped to strecth.
Is there any way for homamade organic PK fertilizer, becouse here is not a lot of high PK fertilizers where i live( this one with 4-7-7 was the best), only if i go to other town, but still no bugget a.t.m
Thnx again
So you suggest i stop fertilizing with this 4-7-7 fertilizer?
I fertilized them only 1 time in flower with half of dose.
And i added some mollases last time a watered her.
I didnt fertilized her more then 2-3 times in veg neither.
I was thinking about some LST but looks like she stoped to strecth.
Is there any way for homamade organic PK fertilizer, becouse here is not a lot of high PK fertilizers where i live( this one with 4-7-7 was the best), only if i go to other town, but still no bugget a.t.m
Thnx again
S
SeaMaiden
No, I'm saying that between the two the 4-7-7 is better.
LST it, fer Chrissakes! If she's stopped stretching (about the right time for it) you STILL need to get the canopy evened out. It's to do with the plant knowing where its different parts are in physical space (they know which way is UP, right? they know more than that, too) through hormones, auxins in this case if I recall. That means that even if there's good light penetration, when growing indoors your biggest buds are ALWAYS going to be the top buds, those closest to the light, and maybe some of the mids depending on how you've groomed the ladies.
Just bend the stem, mang, just let it get that crimp in it, not too much, just enough that it can't quite bring itself back up again. It's called supercropping and it's a lot like LST because it does the same thing--evens out the canopy.
Seriously, it's a lot about canopy control as anything else. Once you learn that, then you begin to manipulate production by removing certain bud sites that are lower down on the plant, and therefore always destined to produce larfy, popcorn crap that no one wants to trim, but the plant spent energy growing.
Try bat guanos for high P & K, or seabird guano, something like that.
LST it, fer Chrissakes! If she's stopped stretching (about the right time for it) you STILL need to get the canopy evened out. It's to do with the plant knowing where its different parts are in physical space (they know which way is UP, right? they know more than that, too) through hormones, auxins in this case if I recall. That means that even if there's good light penetration, when growing indoors your biggest buds are ALWAYS going to be the top buds, those closest to the light, and maybe some of the mids depending on how you've groomed the ladies.
Just bend the stem, mang, just let it get that crimp in it, not too much, just enough that it can't quite bring itself back up again. It's called supercropping and it's a lot like LST because it does the same thing--evens out the canopy.
Seriously, it's a lot about canopy control as anything else. Once you learn that, then you begin to manipulate production by removing certain bud sites that are lower down on the plant, and therefore always destined to produce larfy, popcorn crap that no one wants to trim, but the plant spent energy growing.
Try bat guanos for high P & K, or seabird guano, something like that.
S
SeaMaiden
Definitely better for flowering, yes.
Your supercropping is a beginning, but the canopy isn't level/even, and the plant will know it. I suggest you begin removing BUD SITES that are shaded. Not leaves, the bud sites themselves. Make sense? This will help ensure further less larf and more good bud.
They look healthy.
Your supercropping is a beginning, but the canopy isn't level/even, and the plant will know it. I suggest you begin removing BUD SITES that are shaded. Not leaves, the bud sites themselves. Make sense? This will help ensure further less larf and more good bud.
They look healthy.
I think i understand .My english isnt good so im strugleing to understand .
Thnx for advices too
edit: So if i understood correct, you suggest i remove bud sites that are shaded and the non-shaded buds will be bigger, becouse plant will give more energy for those. The shaded buds are mostly under or just little above the screen.
.My english isnt good so im strugleing to understand .Thnx for advices too
edit: So if i understood correct, you suggest i remove bud sites that are shaded and the non-shaded buds will be bigger, becouse plant will give more energy for those. The shaded buds are mostly under or just little above the screen.
S
SeaMaiden
I thought perhaps English was a second (or third?) language for you, and so I've been trying not to use slang terms. As far as your comprehension on the canopy and bud site control, YOU'VE GOT IT!
Look up Medjool date farming for an idea of how this works. The idea is basically this--a plant has a given potential for production, let's say a cannabis plant has the potential to grow you 1lb under the lighting you've provided. Now, that 1lb can be in the form of buds that are no larger than a nickel and you can see through them, or they can be in the form of the densest, heaviest buds. The question is how to achieve those preferred buds. That is canopy control, and that is using methods that force the plant to use its energy on the best areas, instead of all areas.
Another example that I can think of here that's appropriate would be fruiting trees, such as apple, plum, peach, nectarine, apricot (I have experience with all these trees except apples), etc. Some years the trees may produce fewer, but much larger fruits. Other years they produce a ton of little tiny fruits. If you let them grow as they will, as the years progress, your crop will be less and less consistent. That's where proper pruning techniques come into play, and by doing that properly then you're removing the fruit sites that have the least potential, as well as allowing the plant to focus its energy on fewer fruit, thereby producing better fruit.
I hope I'm explaining it well, but I think you've got the idea.
I went ahead and got you the link on Medjool farming that helped me grasp the concepts behind methods like lollipopping, etc.
http://www.dateland.com/Tutorial.html
Look up Medjool date farming for an idea of how this works. The idea is basically this--a plant has a given potential for production, let's say a cannabis plant has the potential to grow you 1lb under the lighting you've provided. Now, that 1lb can be in the form of buds that are no larger than a nickel and you can see through them, or they can be in the form of the densest, heaviest buds. The question is how to achieve those preferred buds. That is canopy control, and that is using methods that force the plant to use its energy on the best areas, instead of all areas.
Another example that I can think of here that's appropriate would be fruiting trees, such as apple, plum, peach, nectarine, apricot (I have experience with all these trees except apples), etc. Some years the trees may produce fewer, but much larger fruits. Other years they produce a ton of little tiny fruits. If you let them grow as they will, as the years progress, your crop will be less and less consistent. That's where proper pruning techniques come into play, and by doing that properly then you're removing the fruit sites that have the least potential, as well as allowing the plant to focus its energy on fewer fruit, thereby producing better fruit.
I hope I'm explaining it well, but I think you've got the idea.
I went ahead and got you the link on Medjool farming that helped me grasp the concepts behind methods like lollipopping, etc.
http://www.dateland.com/Tutorial.html
T
TribalSeeds
You're gonna wanna tie-up those buds that you supercropped before the buds get too heavy
S
SeaMaiden
He could let them rest on the screen. It's what I did my first ScroG.
