2800 watts 99% sealed room what size A/C?

[SKUNK420]

what up everybody quick question for people with similar room sizes and/or experience. i got a 371 scf. 9'L x 9'H x 5.5'W 99% sealed room. three 600's w/6" hoods and one 1000 w/8" hood. the hoods are setup inline with their own air circuit all cooled by one 10" vortex. i will be using co2. ambient air temp wil be around 65 to 80( or at least 45 days from now it will be 80+).

will i be fine or just okay with just 10,000 btu or should i try to get a 12,000 btu? i will not be adding any more lights etc..

 

[TrichyTrichy]

Go for big. That's a lot of heat...

 

[badugi]

Depending on how efficient your light cooling system is (sounds pretty damn efficient, just hope you're not running all the 6"s in a single inline), and how much heat the dehumidifier puts out, 10k BTU should be plenty for a room like that. 7-8k should enough, even. Assuming room is decently insulated and ambient isn't in the extremes. Also assuming you're using a bottled, non-heat-producing source of CO2. Leave the ballasts outside of the room. IMO, in your particular case, I think the most important thing to take into consideration is the EER of the units and their cost.

 

[Phillthy]

Depending on how efficient your light cooling system is (sounds pretty damn efficient, just hope you're not running all the 6"s in a single inline), and how much heat the dehumidifier puts out, 10k BTU should be plenty for a room like that. 7-8k should enough, even. Assuming room is decently insulated and ambient isn't in the extremes. Also assuming you're using a bottled, non-heat-producing source of CO2. Leave the ballasts outside of the room. IMO, in your particular case, I think the most important thing to take into consideration is the EER of the units and their cost.

agreed, but will also add humidity as a concern. sometimes going with a smaller unit that runs more often is better then a bigger one that runs then shuts off. RH levels are always affected by the AC.

 

[badugi]

I don't think any little store-bought unit (up to 70 pints) will be able to keep up with a 2800w 99% sealed room in late bloom, it will likely be chugging away 24/7. You'll be glad you didn't skimp and under-size to some 45 pint unit.

 

[Phillthy]

yes i would recommend at least a 65 pint with the AC running most of the time and good air circulation throughout.

 

[SKUNK420]

thanks for the input guys. I think I need to refresh my set up or installation of the A/C. I was thinking of a window unit with an A/C box on the back to catch the hot air and direct it up toward the ceiling. don't worry about where the heat is going. I'm using 6 feet of 12" insulated ducting to connect the hole in the ceiling to the attic vents. it will be mounted high in the wall of my grow room. which is a 2x4 stud framed insulated siliconed air tight room in a room. I will also have to lean the A/C back a degree so the water will drain on to a catch tray that will drain by a hose into a big trash can and I will just empty it every couple of days or plumbed outside (not stealth for my location).
yes all ballasts are outside the grow room into the "utility room" the hoods are mounted inline plus 2 wall mounted fan inside the room. I may add an electric duct damper to allow some timed air exchange if humidity gets to be a problem but that has smell issues.3 sungro's upgraded to 6" and sealed to perfection with 600W horti's and one coolsun 8" 1k horti all being cooled by 10"vortex. ducting will be less then 15 ft. air for the hoods come from outside the room. no bottle co2 or a/c losses and smell hopefully. here's how it will all be installed. 10" fan top of ceiling sucking from the 8" 1st then 8"ducting split into 3 and reduced to 6" ducting then to each top of the sungro hoods. if i could post pics or drawnings i would but no can do.