240v receptacle wiring question

[fishheadbob]

I like to think I'm a good amateur electrician, and I've improved a lot since the big fire that made all the channels on the nightly news. Right after that I made the $10 investment in the home wiring book, best investment I made, haven't been seen on TV in decades now.
I roll my eyes when someone asks for wiring advice on a dope forum; you really don't have a clue who is answering. Could be an electrical engineer, could be a union electrician, but could also be a brain addled 13 year old pothead. Spend the $10 and buy the book. You'll be able to do all sorts of wiring if you can read.

 

[Barn Growin']

Ok guys I'm starting to detect a trend I don't even know why I asked a electrical question. FYI I was simply asking if this was possible I never planned on doing ANY kind of electrical myself I have a guy who does that already. I guess curiosity killed the cat....

 

[cocktail frank]

it is bad practice to put more than one wire under a screw terminal on the receptacle.
1 wire per screw.
being 240v receptacles have one screw for each hot, make a pigtail.

doubling up 2 wires under one screw can lead to a loosened connection.
loose connection = heat
heat = fried wires.

what homeboy said was true.
you guys are jumping down his throat and he made a valid point.

 

[yamaha_1fan]

I am not sure on 240 outlets, but 120 outlets usually have 2 screws on each side. One for in, one for out. So you would connect your wire to one set of screws, then use a small length, and connect your next outlet to that extra set of screws. Just to be clear, one side is brass, the other is silver. You still need to connect your hot and neutral to a bras and silver. Cant remember which goes to what, but its usually marked. You DO NOT connect the hot and neutral to all silver or all brass. One wire has to go to each side.

There may be some areas that dont allow that type of connection, I am not sure. Or maybe its everywhere that frowns on it, not sure.

You could also just run the wire into the box, pigtail it, then run a short length to each outlet


If the 240 outlet doesnt have 2 sets of screws, you are wanting to double up on the connections? 2 wires per screw basically? I dont know about that. It would work, not sure if its safe. maybe, maybe not.

CocktailFrank, please tell me what I said was wrong? If people would read a whole post, before they posted, it would solve alot of problems. I explained how it was done in 120, just as a reference. Only having wired a couple 240 outlets, I could not remember if they had multiple screws like a 120 outlet. I did state I wasnt sure if it was safe.

The problem with Twisted Remedy is he just wanted to act like an asshole. Maybe you should go back and read the whole thread and see who jumped first.

 

[antimatter]

There needs to be some real answers here so here it goes

Appliances Exceeding 1500w
Rule 26-746 (1) of CEC

Every electric heating and cooking appliance rated at more than 1500 w shall be supplied from a branch circuit used solely for one appliance, except that more than one appliance may be connected to a single-branch circuit provided the following is used:

(a) a multiple throw manually operated device that will permit only one such appliance to be energized at one time: or

(b) an automatic device that will limit the total load to a value that will not cause operation of the overcuurent devices protecting the branch circuit


Saying that all microwaves and refrigerators and all those other wonderful things in our house have to be on there own branch circuit, I personally would rather have each light on its own branch circuit regardless of whatever the rules say, but remember grow ops don't follow the rules they hook up 4 lights to a 30 amp dryer plug, it works just fine, honestly who gives a fuck, just make sure you got your arc fault circuit interrupters and I doubt your gonna have a fire.

 

[PharmaCan]

There needs to be some real answers here so here it goes

Appliances Exceeding 1500w
Rule 26-746 (1) of CEC

Every electric heating and cooking appliance rated at more than 1500 w shall be supplied from a branch circuit used solely for one appliance,

.

How graciously condescending you are to all of us who offered solid advice on the OP's question. The only thing that escapes me is, where did you read anything in this thread about heating or cooking appliances? Did you get lost while searching for the Better Homes and Gardens forum?

PC

 

[antimatter]

How graciously condescending you are to all of us who offered solid advice on the OP's question. The only thing that escapes me is, where did you read anything in this thread about heating or cooking appliances? Did you get lost while searching for the Better Homes and Gardens forum?

PC

edited: there im corrected, now lets not get all worked up about code it pisses everybody off lol.., but id still keep each ballast on its own branch circuit.

 

[antimatter]

30-712
(1) Where lighting branch circuits supply luminaries employ, ballasts, transformers or auto transformers the load on the branch circuits shall be computed on the basis of the total amperes of the units and not on the watts of the lamps.

 

[richyrich]

I am not sure on 240 outlets, but 120 outlets usually have 2 screws on each side. One for in, one for out. So you would connect your wire to one set of screws, then use a small length, and connect your next outlet to that extra set of screws. Just to be clear, one side is brass, the other is silver. You still need to connect your hot and neutral to a bras and silver. Cant remember which goes to what, but its usually marked. You DO NOT connect the hot and neutral to all silver or all brass. One wire has to go to each side.

There may be some areas that dont allow that type of connection, I am not sure. Or maybe its everywhere that frowns on it, not sure.

You could also just run the wire into the box, pigtail it, then run a short length to each outlet


If the 240 outlet doesnt have 2 sets of screws, you are wanting to double up on the connections? 2 wires per screw basically? I dont know about that. It would work, not sure if its safe. maybe, maybe not.

For those of you who cannot comprehend what you read, take another pass if you can. In bold "...and connect your next outlet to that extra set of screws..." Yamaha was referring to the second set of screws on an outlet. Yes, you would connect to the second set of screws to run a piggy back to the next outlet.

In bold "...? 2 wires per screw basically? I dont know about that. It would work, not sure if its safe. maybe, maybe not." A question mark after one's statement usually means doubt. And the follow up questions represent doubt in the poster's reply. It was not meant to be done. It was a question.

 

[Barn Growin']

yikes ...I tried erasing the thread but I can't lol. We did get these all hooked up for what its worth. I can now run 3 1000w ballast per circuit. I must say though to get the duplex outlets it was not only a pain in the ass but they were $$$$$$. I had to go to one of the biggest electrical suppliers in my state to even find them and they had 16 total. You can find the single outlets no problem but I already had my wiring and boxes installed so I had to do what I had to do. It was funny when I asked over the phone how much they were he asked me if I was sitting down lol. The guy gave me a DEAL and sold them to me for 16$ a piece they were 24$ for non contractor price 20$ contractor price and 16$ cause "it was friday and he was gonna be nice"! The breakers were an arm and a leg too. I ended up spending about 150$ total for 6 outlets and 3 breakers.

 

[richyrich]

Give a rule out of the code book that makes my answer look stupid or rediculous, ballast/luminaire/appliance/heating who cares, if the code book says not to load a branch circuit over 1500w on a duplex receptacle im not going to, im gonna have a seperate circuit for each light. Why dont you go take an electrical course and learn how to use a codebook, those rules arnt there to annoy people there because somebody died

Who is gonna do that? Aren't most common receptacles rated for a maximum of 15 amps(1500w). I wouldn't run more than 12 amps on it continuously per the 80% rule. You could run 2 1000w ballasts at 240w off of that circuit, not a single appliance. That would be a total of about 10 amps. And for the record 20 amp receptacles are sold for the standard plug.

The original question was "Hello everyone I was wondering if it is possible to connect two duplex 240v outlets together to run off of one 20a double pole breaker?"

Yes, you could. That would be one outlet with 1 piggy tailed outlet. About 15 amps total on a 20 amp circuit is in the safe zone. 10 amps on the first outlet and 5 on the second. Perfectly fine.

This is a circuit rated at 20 amps with a total of around 15 amps running. No problem. It is not running more than 15 amps per receptacle so your rule does not apply here.

This is not a single appliance running more than 1500w, so your rule does not apply here once again.

So why do so many folks here have their panties up their azz?

 

[antimatter]

So why do so many folks here have their panties up their azz?

I corrected myself, lol im not even gonna try and tackle that comment

 

[PharmaCan]

So why do so many folks here have their panties up their azz?

'Cuz their panties were in the way of their head.

PC

 

[antimatter]

'Cuz their panties were in the way of their head.

PC

I swear I dont know how they got there, it wasn't me lol

 

[Stay Puft]

Blame it on Panti-Matter...he did it.
(just messin with ya!)

 

[SKUNK420]

the b.s. never stops but i was able to find my answer that i needed. T104 40a timer wired to four 240V outlets. one 1000w & three 600w. so i can wiring it like this: timer to one outlet then with correct pigtail connect that to the next outlet and then repeat for the last two outlet?

here's my can of worms. i need to change my 120V cords to 240V or should i say screw the 240 cords and outlets and wire the ballasts directly to the timer output? what would be the correct way to do that? i know i can not stuff all those wiring into the time output side. pigtails?

if anybody can help & a simple diagram would be nice.

oh yeah i do have the home electrical book from black & decker, but as we all know it doesn't have examples of these type of wiring stituations.

say sumthin stupid agin push them buttons if it makes you feel better karma will give your yours trust that you dont bother me your just posting your own character flaws its a weakness you see maybe you are the ones who need help with your behavior , or might i say grow the fuck up kids , if it wasnt for us bringing you fucks boxes off the docks back then none of you would have been smokin trust that.

hey crackhead this is a 240V question thread so STFU with your lame attempt to be an internet psychologist. people who say crap like that are usually the ones in need of mental help.

 

[PharmaCan]

the b.s. never stops but i was able to find my answer that i needed. T104 40a timer wired to four 240V outlets. one 1000w & three 600w. so i can wiring it like this: timer to one outlet then with correct pigtail connect that to the next outlet and then repeat for the last two outlet?

It sounds like you are on the right track. Make sure you put the wire nuts on nice and tight and the way you described it will work. (So each box, except for the last, has three wires per wire nut - One incoming, one out-going and a pigtail for the receptacle.) If you are using metal boxes, get some green grounding screws and screw one into the hole in the inside back of the box and connect your ground to the box and the receptacle.

here's my can of worms. i need to change my 120V cords to 240V or should i say screw the 240 cords and outlets and wire the ballasts directly to the timer output? what would be the correct way to do that? i know i can not stuff all those wiring into the time output side. pigtails?

What you are talking about here is called hardwiring. It would be a lot less expensive way to go. Get the timer and a 4"x4" handibox. Run a (timed) cable from the timer to the 4x4. Cut the ends off your cords and put them in the box. Be sure to use the proper connectors where you put the wires into the 4x4. Strip your wires the appropriate amount, connect the colors, put a blank cover on the box and you're good to go.

If you have a soldering iron, it would be good idea to tin your cord wires before you hook them up - es mucho mejor para su conneciones y, tambien, mas facil para ti.

Look in your book for a junction box. That's what you'd be making.

PC

 

[sparkjumper]

I have been doing this for years.Use 120 volt 20 amp receptacles and wire them for 240 volts.This way you get to keep the original 120V plugs on your fixtures and just switch one wire in the housing to make it 240V.I'm going on 7 years with 3 1k HPS with 120V 20 amp recepts wired for 240.If you ever want to go back to 120V power source you still have your 120V plugs attached.Dont let anyone tell you that a 120V or 240V receptacle are somehow different other than the configuration,its the amperage thats crucial.

 

[PharmaCan]

Dont let anyone tell you that a 120V or 240V receptacle are somehow different other than the configuration,its the amperage thats crucial.

This is one reason why electrical threads get so contentious.

While what you are saying is true, and has been discussed many times on this forum, it really isn't the topic of this thread. Perhaps you should consider starting you post with something like, "Here's another way you could do it... " instead of trying to come across like you are smarter than everyone else who has posted here.

PC

 

[sparkjumper]

If I came acros that way,it wasnt intentional.I admit I didnt read every post in the thread,but thought I had the jist.I can see this may not be the place to relay electrical experience.