typrastaman
Member
Ingen som planerar köra i sommar?
Finn to the rescue !
Thanks!
I checked in to see how your genetics are going to pan out in Sweden soon Parameter.
I can give some hints here and there for if people have questions.
To catch up I use google translate, but i prefer talking English my self.
absolut! Välkommen.ska följa denna tråd, Se till att slänga upp gott om med bilder sen!!
Jag kör min största grow hittills i år. Jag har börjat preppa jorden på plats och har groddat 10 Ulduz, 10 Leb27 och 6 Pehkuthyphoon som kommer få växa 2-3 veckor i fönstret/balkongen innan de planteras ut. Jag kommer troligen grodda ytterligare ett gäng autos lite längre fram också.
Jag lägger upp lite bilder på de små plantorna och hur jag preppar groparna kommande vecka. Kom igen!!
Mix in ½% Biolan Kannankakka/Merileva + 1% Grass fed animal dung + a little bit of wood ash. > Then put this mix in the under half of the pot, tub, or hole in the ground, and leave the upper half pure and unadulterated as it is.
First choice:
Even better.
Yes, that's very okay Parameter.
So long you mix it well at 1% with peat moss, add 2 or 3 deciliter wood ash to 100 liter soil, and put it down at the bottom half of your medium, I see no reason something to be wrong.
The ½% chickenshit/seaweed pellets on top of that would make it totally perfect.
But you'd need to make sure that the upper half of your medium is not too rich in Nitrogen.
For the upper half, you'd rather look for some LIGHTLY fertilized, light brown, well draining, greenhouse peat moss with a PH between 6.2 and 6.5.
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2 or 3 deciliter wood ash per 100 liter soil is important to counter act the cow manures PH, and to add some essential minerals.
It's not all thàt precise, but it'd be good if you can lay your hands on cow manure and wood ash simultaneously, and use it at the same time mixed together.
Cow manure lowers the PH, and has lots of easy uptake-able nitrogen, the wood ash brings the PH back up and adds some essential minerals.
Chickenshit/seaweed pellets alone makes the ph wanna go to 7. Which is too much, for if ya wanna use that same plot each year.
Everything goes better so long there is also that cow manure in the under layer.
But everything goes worse, the further you stray away from following the recipe.
When PH is 4.5 Then an initial applying of Magnesium holding Chalk is a good alternative to Wood Ash as well, but then you'd need to test the soil with good PH measuring equipment afterwards, or sent a sample of your soil to some farmers lab for soil analysis.
The problem with chalk is that it becomes very easy to overdo, and then you'd need to counter act it with some apple vinegar solution again. > A messy procedure.
Wood ash however is instant soluble, and surplus wood ash would easily drain out, or be neutralized by soil life.
Chalk on the other hand, is a 'slow release' agent, and will continue to raise the PH long after it has reached an optimum PH value.
Also, when using chalk, it is good to spread some of it out over the outer perimeter of the plot. > Like if your plot has lets say a 1 meter diameter where you mix in the chalk, then it is good to cover a surface area of 3 meter in diameter with chalk as well. > The hole you dug and replaced with airy soil, will act as a sinkhole for surplus rain, and the surrounding 4.5 PH will drain in, and fuck up your perfect PH in the hole afterwards otherwise.
But Chalk, kinda tends to 'live a life of it's own' and it would be hard to get it all right already in the first trial. Working with chalk usually takes several seasons before the right equilibrium has been reached.
It is good though, don't get me wrong, but ya need to know what you are doing, or else failure would be easy to expect.