R
rüdiger
this looks not bad for those water temps. keep on.
2 Panamas dwc
- Thread starter Rondelia
- Start date
R
rüdiger
hey,
is 'floramicrosoft' part needed throughout flowering?
its 5-0-1? are all micro nutrients in this part?
530ppm, ec 0,75?
450, ec 0,64?
u use ro,
what is in this case your tapwater ec/ppm, cal/mag?
27° is no problem
N-K burn with oxygen uptake problems, lower ec and N level.
dont force flower with pk when plant cannot accumulate the nutrients!
all imho
rüdiger
is 'floramicrosoft' part needed throughout flowering?
its 5-0-1? are all micro nutrients in this part?
530ppm, ec 0,75?
450, ec 0,64?
u use ro,
what is in this case your tapwater ec/ppm, cal/mag?
27° is no problem
N-K burn with oxygen uptake problems, lower ec and N level.
dont force flower with pk when plant cannot accumulate the nutrients!
all imho
rüdiger
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Rondelia
Active member
Yes all micro nutrients are in the micro which is 5-0-1
530 ppm = 1-1.1 ec
450 ppm = 0.9 ec
Both of these are the highest ppm I ever gave them.
It's like 50ppm = 0.1 ec
I only use RO which is 18ppm, my tap water is 170ppm but I don;t use it. Also I don't use calmag.
I will lower the ec and stop the extra pk but there is a prob with the micro bottle I think. I use the 3b - 2m - 1g ratio. How to change that to lower Nitrogen ? If i lower the micro I wont gine any micronutes to the plant. Damn...
530 ppm = 1-1.1 ec
450 ppm = 0.9 ec
Both of these are the highest ppm I ever gave them.
It's like 50ppm = 0.1 ec
I only use RO which is 18ppm, my tap water is 170ppm but I don;t use it. Also I don't use calmag.
I will lower the ec and stop the extra pk but there is a prob with the micro bottle I think. I use the 3b - 2m - 1g ratio. How to change that to lower Nitrogen ? If i lower the micro I wont gine any micronutes to the plant. Damn...
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R
rüdiger
hi,
thanks, my conversion prog is another calc.
In my opinion this nutrient line is not suited for sativa dominant strains, it will give you product- thats clear, but not ideal.
Is your tapwater very hard? or why dont you use it?
its NOT neccessary to use ro in dwc, i dont understand.
tapwater gives you better buffering and extra cal/mag.
I would use tapwater and never go with the combined ec tap+nutes over ec 1. and maybe try another nutrient line
but as said i find your plants look good for the situation.
rüdiger
thanks, my conversion prog is another calc.
In my opinion this nutrient line is not suited for sativa dominant strains, it will give you product- thats clear, but not ideal.
Is your tapwater very hard? or why dont you use it?
its NOT neccessary to use ro in dwc, i dont understand.
tapwater gives you better buffering and extra cal/mag.
I would use tapwater and never go with the combined ec tap+nutes over ec 1. and maybe try another nutrient line
but as said i find your plants look good for the situation.
rüdiger
this is wrong ...ro water gives better buffering and more
stable ph..i tell you that for sure!
and if you want some cal/mag add 1/10 tap water in your sustem,not more
ron bro
the hard part of this grow just begin with the hot days...
i wish you good luck and some cool days
Here's a dirty secret I don't tell most people: My tap water is about 630 ppm, which is approximately EC 1.25. And the pH is approximately 7.5. That's extremely hard water. I've done grows using exclusively ro water (30 ppm; 6.9 pH), exclusively tap water, and a mix of the two. I have not been able to discern a difference in harvest results. And the plants don't seem to mind all the minerals in my tap water (which includes both calcium and magnesium).
But if I use ro water, I have to add pH up, because the General Hydroponics Flora series nutes take the pH of ro water down a little too far. Using tap water, my nute solution is about pH 6.5 with the nutes, so I add a little pH down to take it to around 5.9-6.1.
By the way, I am operating passive hydro, not DWC. I don't know if my tap water would work in DWC. I haven't tried it.
But if I use ro water, I have to add pH up, because the General Hydroponics Flora series nutes take the pH of ro water down a little too far. Using tap water, my nute solution is about pH 6.5 with the nutes, so I add a little pH down to take it to around 5.9-6.1.
By the way, I am operating passive hydro, not DWC. I don't know if my tap water would work in DWC. I haven't tried it.
R
rüdiger
'Here's a dirty secret I don't tell most people: My tap water is about 630 ppm, which is approximately EC 1.25. And the pH is approximately 7.5. That's extremely hard water. I've done grows using exclusively ro water (30 ppm; 6.9 pH), exclusively tap water, and a mix of the two. I have not been able to discern a difference in harvest results. And the plants don't seem to mind all the minerals in my tap water (which includes both calcium and magnesium).
But if I use ro water, I have to add pH up, because the General Hydroponics Flora series nutes take the pH of ro water down a little too far. Using tap water, my nute solution is about pH 6.5 with the nutes, so I add a little pH down to take it to around 5.9-6.1.'
this is what i try to tell.
and because we want a small ph upswing while the nutrient solution is in use, its better to downregulate the ph by using tapwater.(with citric acid)
I have done hydroponic applications with tap and with RO and also mix. In the end I always got back to tap for better control and ease in use.
Tjo my friend,
wrong or right, I dont want to discuss that while not knowing the exact analysis of a certain tap water.
Its just my case, and i should have mention this, sorry.
Each tap is very different even in the same street here, its just my experience that using tap gives me always a nutrient solution that can sit and run longer without changing.
This is because the ph upswing reacts slower with my tapwater compared to a RO nutrient solution. And I want a swing, not total stable.
I will quit the discussion now, as i feel i bit displaced without any evidence of a running DWC where i can show what i mean.
peace my hydro fellas,
rüdiger
But if I use ro water, I have to add pH up, because the General Hydroponics Flora series nutes take the pH of ro water down a little too far. Using tap water, my nute solution is about pH 6.5 with the nutes, so I add a little pH down to take it to around 5.9-6.1.'
this is what i try to tell.
and because we want a small ph upswing while the nutrient solution is in use, its better to downregulate the ph by using tapwater.(with citric acid)
I have done hydroponic applications with tap and with RO and also mix. In the end I always got back to tap for better control and ease in use.
Tjo my friend
, wrong or right, I dont want to discuss that while not knowing the exact analysis of a certain tap water.
Its just my case, and i should have mention this, sorry.
Each tap is very different even in the same street here, its just my experience that using tap gives me always a nutrient solution that can sit and run longer without changing.
This is because the ph upswing reacts slower with my tapwater compared to a RO nutrient solution. And I want a swing, not total stable.
I will quit the discussion now, as i feel i bit displaced without any evidence of a running DWC where i can show what i mean.
peace my hydro fellas,
rüdiger
One thing I want to add:
I've done grows with RO water and GH nutes without checking the pH. I know now that the pH was too low by the book. But the grows were successful and without problems. Hmmm.
I've also done grows with the hard tap water I have to deal with (630 ppm) and never checked pH or corrected it. But the grows were successful and without problems.
I've grown at 25C and 35C. 25C is better but only if the plants don't get too cold at night. Great buds can be grown really well at 35C, and the high is just as good, though the plants aren't optimal (they stress a bit, but do I really care that much?).
My conclusion has always been that this plant is extremely resilient and able to withstand (or even flourish) under a variety of pH, water, light, temperature, pH and nutes conditions, provided only that those variables are kept in a reasonable range, as in nothing stupid. In other words, it's a forgiving plant if you don't get too far outside the parameters. Of course, it's also possible that I've been lucky never to have had a fussy strain.
I think sometimes people who grow are so fixated on small things that they forget the larger ones. Water, moderate nutrients, pH, reasonable temps, and good light (again, a range will work). Just keep them reasonable, and everything will be fine. Try to push or get too "hands on" and you can ruin your grow. It's when we try to grow without those basics in mind, or try to push the envelope by intensifying things (lights, pH, nutes, light schedule, etc) that we encounter trouble.
If we stick to basics, the rest is just details. We only fail by ignoring the basics.
I've done grows with RO water and GH nutes without checking the pH. I know now that the pH was too low by the book. But the grows were successful and without problems. Hmmm.
I've also done grows with the hard tap water I have to deal with (630 ppm) and never checked pH or corrected it. But the grows were successful and without problems.
I've grown at 25C and 35C. 25C is better but only if the plants don't get too cold at night. Great buds can be grown really well at 35C, and the high is just as good, though the plants aren't optimal (they stress a bit, but do I really care that much?).
My conclusion has always been that this plant is extremely resilient and able to withstand (or even flourish) under a variety of pH, water, light, temperature, pH and nutes conditions, provided only that those variables are kept in a reasonable range, as in nothing stupid. In other words, it's a forgiving plant if you don't get too far outside the parameters. Of course, it's also possible that I've been lucky never to have had a fussy strain.
I think sometimes people who grow are so fixated on small things that they forget the larger ones. Water, moderate nutrients, pH, reasonable temps, and good light (again, a range will work). Just keep them reasonable, and everything will be fine. Try to push or get too "hands on" and you can ruin your grow. It's when we try to grow without those basics in mind, or try to push the envelope by intensifying things (lights, pH, nutes, light schedule, etc) that we encounter trouble.
If we stick to basics, the rest is just details. We only fail by ignoring the basics.
Rondelia
Active member
My friends thanks for making me a better grower, your inputs were very enlightening and sorry for being so late my days are quite busy.
Rudiger i dont use my tap cause i had root rot a couple of times and got a bit scared to use it anymore. This week though I used 1 part tap 9 parts RO water. Which nutrient line do you have in mind bro? I've already used this far flora seres and canna aqua.
Komboloi thanks for sharing a bit of your insights bro you made rethink things.
Thank god the grow seems to hadle nicely till now, no bugs, not foul smelling water, the PH went from 5.7 to 6.4. I really pray for this grow to handle the summer and give me like 0.4g/watt but It seems that these panamas just don't like to be DWCed...I came to this conclution(not a scientific one I must add) because I didn't have fluffy buds when I first grew their seeds in soil(Guanokalog I tottaly recommend it* needs flowering nutes but performed perfect through their vegging).
Maybe their roots needs some resistance to grow tight buds, what do you think about this hypothesis? Did you ever had sativas that showed different bud formation from soil to hydro?
I've also changed the light scedule to 11/13. Pics are coming stay tuned
Rudiger i dont use my tap cause i had root rot a couple of times and got a bit scared to use it anymore. This week though I used 1 part tap 9 parts RO water. Which nutrient line do you have in mind bro? I've already used this far flora seres and canna aqua.
Komboloi thanks for sharing a bit of your insights bro you made rethink things.
Thank god the grow seems to hadle nicely till now, no bugs, not foul smelling water, the PH went from 5.7 to 6.4. I really pray for this grow to handle the summer and give me like 0.4g/watt but It seems that these panamas just don't like to be DWCed...I came to this conclution(not a scientific one I must add) because I didn't have fluffy buds when I first grew their seeds in soil(Guanokalog I tottaly recommend it* needs flowering nutes but performed perfect through their vegging).
Maybe their roots needs some resistance to grow tight buds, what do you think about this hypothesis? Did you ever had sativas that showed different bud formation from soil to hydro?
I've also changed the light scedule to 11/13. Pics are coming stay tuned
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R
rüdiger
Hey Rondelia
I want to show you this one,
60 x 40 x 43,5 cm, 88 liter
eu norm, you should get them where you are
they cost 20-25€ here
use them as single bucket or connect as much as you want recirc.
so right now i have this box and i have 6 unsexed Panamas sitting here
lets see where the story goes
a single part total nutrient that has chelated micros and ~1:2:3 NPK will do the trick, cut slowly to mid flower while forcing ec up via PK.
dont think panama is not suited for DWC, hehe, any strain can be grown in water culture with excellent results, imho.
is chlorine in your tap?
I want to show you this one,
60 x 40 x 43,5 cm, 88 liter
eu norm, you should get them where you are
they cost 20-25€ here
use them as single bucket or connect as much as you want recirc.
so right now i have this box and i have 6 unsexed Panamas sitting here
lets see where the story goes
a single part total nutrient that has chelated micros and ~1:2:3 NPK will do the trick, cut slowly to mid flower while forcing ec up via PK.
dont think panama is not suited for DWC, hehe, any strain can be grown in water culture with excellent results, imho.
is chlorine in your tap?
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Rondelia
Active member
Yes there is. It's kinda impossible to use one of these boxes right now but I put in my controller a frozen bottle every few hours, I also used 250ml of Heisenberg's Tea (trichodermas,baccilluses,liquid wormcating and mollasses) to prevent root rot and root problems in general.
R
rüdiger
not now, just for future
chlorined tap wont cause root rot.
but it'll kill bacteria.
add chlorine to nutrient solution to prevent rot in high water temps.
chlorined tap wont cause root rot.
but it'll kill bacteria.
add chlorine to nutrient solution to prevent rot in high water temps.
Rondelia
Active member
Heisenberg's Tea seems to do the same job with clorine but through eating the bacteria. It even completely cures very infected roots from root rot and resumes growing within a week. VERY good stuff bro it saved my grow when it was about to die. Heisenberg claims that with 250ml in 50lt you can prevent all root discease and handle bigger temps and ,from my experience, he's right. Last year an o.g. clone of mine made it through a summer of 38-45°s with no root damage(got spidermites but its another issue treated and harversted)
treated and harversted)
R
rüdiger
i make wormteas with differing strenghts and sugars, my bin is full of funghi.
but i dont use them in dwc. maybe i try this someday
but i dont use them in dwc. maybe i try this someday
Rondelia
Active member
If you never had root rot problems I see no point in using it,maybe only as protection.
If you get inftected though it's da fucking cure!
Check his thread: DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes (google it)
for extra info and theory.
Soooo
We are at 44 days of 12/12, no PK this week just the old 1-2-3 Flora series ratio with 1/10 tap water as the dwc specialist tjo recommends(check his monster from malawi and you'll unsterstand,it's in the same forum)
Res change tomorrow
PH range as the week passed 5.7-6.4
Temps 28-30°
Water temps 26-28°
Both :
If you get inftected though it's da fucking cure!
Check his thread: DWC Root Slime Cure aka How to Breed Beneficial Microbes (google it)
for extra info and theory.
Soooo
We are at 44 days of 12/12, no PK this week just the old 1-2-3 Flora series ratio with 1/10 tap water as the dwc specialist tjo recommends(check his monster from malawi and you'll unsterstand,it's in the same forum)
Res change tomorrow
PH range as the week passed 5.7-6.4
Temps 28-30°
Water temps 26-28°
Both :
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