Thanks for all the information & input to the fellaz helping out!
The house is based is Europe, where we're running 220/240v.
I will have to do my best trying to tackle/solve the electricity problem on my own, obviously operating in a flip mode with two 10x 600HPS rooms.
Can't imagine I'd be able to get in touch with the council (even if I spoke the language) to arrange changing the wires running from the utility pole. Cheers for the warning and suggestions, unfortunately I can't find any specs on the cable insulation - so all that's possible for me to do is give an approx. diameter measurement.
I'm already fully geared up and it won't be possible to change my lighting setup at this stage, all I can do is cut down on the size of the grow (which I really wouldn't want to). Perhaps Rives will have a look and also drop a few lines of advice
Thanks for popping in Raho, all thoughts and ideas appreciated!
Here is a general outlook on the power demand I'll have when running two flower rooms + a small veg tent:
Lights:
20x HPS 600W, Lumatek electronic ballasts
A/C & dehum.:
2x portable A/C with dehum., cooling capacity: 2,33 kW / 8 kBTU, power: 900W
2x portable A/C, cooling capacity 2,6kW (8.8kBTU), power: 800W
Vents:
2x 100w
4x 70w
4x 40w
10x 20w
Fans:
8x 40w
Humidifiers:
2x 15w
Regarding dividing of the load, I basically need to do a new, external wiring from the main power supply (which is outside the house), or the power-board (which is indoors) for all three grow rooms and build a new, dedicated panel for this purpose.
I was hoping that some of you would be able to advise how would it be best to split the power delivery (one cable from each of the three, 80A main power supply cables running into the house?) and what kind of sub-panel to build for the growrooms to best group the lights / ballasts so that they can manage with the available power / breakers I will install.
I can't dedicate the entire house (in terms of power) for just the grow, as it's also a living place - but it would be possible to cut down the house energy requirements to the very minimum (there's a dish washer, washing machine and electric water heater that would be the main power consumers - apart from that it's just LED lights for the house, two computers and about 2000w for any "extras" running when used - such as a hoover, microwave or kettle).
Also, I'm not able to say how that big electric heater in the garage works (and how is it powered /from where/), but that also can be cut off, as I'll be using a warm air distribution system to heat the house during colder periods.
Cheers for the link, after we burnt out the old-ass wires in the wall of the veg areas (running @2000w) when plugging in a 1600w hoover, I started going through various threads here - but I surely won't be able to plan this out with help from you guys anyway.
Once again I'm really thankful for all the interest and information that gets provided here - you hemp heads are truly a great community of people!!
I'll post up replies to the other messages within' the next hour or two.
Stay safe & catch U soon,
e.
You are grossly underestimating your cooling needs, Am I reading correctly? You plan to cool 12000w of light with 4 8kbtu portable air conditioners?
If that is correct your calculations do not even give you 3,000btu of cooling per 1000w. Not to mention portable ac's are the least efficient in terms of cooling per watt is concerned.
You need to go all the way back to the drawing board and start over this is a fairly large operation and you seem to lack the experience needed. Good luck.
You have what appears to be a very interesting mess.
I'm not at all familiar with European electrical systems, so the first thing that needs to be determined is what you actually have. At the incoming fuse panel, measure the voltage between each phase and from phase to ground. If the leftmost fuse is L1, the middle L2, and the right one is L3, then you need to measure and record the following: L1-L2, L1-L3, L2-L3, L1-ground (the green wire), L2-ground, and L3-ground.
At first blush, I don't hold out a hell of a lot of hope for your service being adequate. The wire size feeding the tops of the fuses needs to be accurately determined. It's hard to get a sense of scale from the picture, but it doesn't look like it is adequate to carry 80 amps and you cannot run a panel at full load long-term anyhow - 80% is considered the maximum for continuous usage. The fact that the wires on the top appear to be roughly 1/2 the size of the ones on the bottom, that there are already 3 wires running off of the bottom of each fuse (each of which is larger than the feeders), and that the powerboard appears to have far more distribution in place than it is fed with, makes me skeptical of your chances of successfully adding that much additional load.
I say go back and calculate what your house can supply (80 amps) and then match your grow rooms to that limit (80A X 75% = 60 amps)....or 64 amps if use 80% as Rives suggested--never calculate usage based on 100% amps available.
Said differently, three 80A connectors added together will not supply you with 100 amps of "grow power".
Or if someone decided to replace a main breaker that kept popping with a bigger one...like the replacing an 80A with an 100A.
Aren't the fuses rated 80A? And the main circuit breaker 100A? Hmmmm. Seen crazier shit in older homes.
zdarec, jak to vypadá co čez a zálohy nebo doplatek? nebyl problém?
,ěj se!
A't se daří!
You are grossly underestimating your cooling needs, Am I reading correctly? You plan to cool 12000w of light with 4 8kbtu portable air conditioners?
If that is correct your calculations do not even give you 3,000btu of cooling per 1000w. Not to mention portable ac's are the least efficient in terms of cooling per watt is concerned.
You need to go all the way back to the drawing board and start over this is a fairly large operation and you seem to lack the experience needed. Good luck.
16-18k isn't in lights, but the whole grow operation and gear used in it. Lights on their own will be 12k, giving a minimum of 36kBTU (and at present I have 33.5k BTU, which is not that far off).OP this guy is right. You have nowhere near as much AC as you'll need for that much lighting. 16-18k of lighting would require a MINIMUM of 48,000 BTU of cooling at 3000 btu per light. IMO you're better off with 4k BTU per light so up that to 64,000 BTU of cooling needed. That is a 6 ton unit that you will need. Not impossible, but expensive.
As for your power issue, a 6 ton unit will probably require a 50-60 amp designated circuit, and even 12k watts of light will require a MINIMUM of 50 amps. Given the age and appearance of your electrical panel, I'm going to mirror what previous posters have said. Please, for your safety, go back to the drawing board. We've all been there OP, and I'm not trying to shame you in any way shape or form. What you're asking and planning on is just simply not doable with what you've currently got and planned upon.
Best wishes OP
Your in a interesting spot there..First I would run a new panel direct for the grow from the main. Disconnecting everything feeding the house, run temporary power from your new panel to power things needed in the house. depending on weather you could cool 6000w air cooled with a 2ton minisplit , don't bother with portables 1 -2 hoods ya a fukin 10hood room ass backwards n totally fukin you considering your limiting conditions... It could be done if your serious but won't be easy. Your plan needs some major adjustments and money, imo it'll probably be better to run less then planned unless you own the house the costs to make it work safe n right for a large grow may not make sense. Just consider all factors... Good luck
I would advise getting a hold of an electrician, I know it's less than ideal but a fire is much less ideal. I am am not sure what country you are in but their are national forums here mabey use Google translate and try in those forums to find a person who is familiar with the electric systems f or the country you find yourself in. I would hate to see you on the show locked up abroad.
Hi rives & thanks 4 showing up!
Luckily (or un-luckily), it's not my mess – but I have to deal with it due to the fact it's me using the house.
I'll do the measurements you've mentioned, as for the wires sizes, what would be the best way to provide an exact size (diameter?).
You're correct that the top wires are about 40-50% smaller than the ground power cables.
Since the ground cables seem to be a decent size, would it be possible / recommended to setup three separate power boards / panels – one for each 6-8K watt flower room and one divided between the house appliances and the veg area?
Also, can you advice what components / breaker size should a sub-panel for the flower rooms hold?
If anyone else would also care to leave some tips regarding the setup of sub panels for my requirements, please feel free to do so, as I haven't built one before and some I've seen in the growroom setup forums seem a bit overcomplicated looking at what I'm dealing with.
Once again rives, thank you for coming over and posting your thoughts / observations.
e.
You simply need a service change,any electrician can do that easily and without asking any questions at all if he knows the total load on all branch circuits.He just wouldn't give a shit if he's anything like an American electrician.You need to figure out your total load ampacity and run a service wire size that will be adequate to existing codes where you're at.It does seem like a 3 phase system as opposed to single phase which we run down here.You need to really look at your expected power consumption in amperes,tell an electrician so he can do an adequate service change terminating at a main distribution panel,then from there I think folks can help you with subpanels and branch circuitry sort of thing
Thank you for sharing your opinion!