150w HPS Club and Resource Guide......

[sugabear_II]

hey ambrosia - I think you are confused with what people have said about the height and scrogging or LST and the heat. What I think people including myself have been rightly trying to warn you of is the ability of this plant we grow to very quickly outgrow the space given to it. Thus having some method of controlling the plant is highly recommended with 40 inches of head room.

Maybe these pics will convince you that these bulbs (150s) don't get that hot.





And on the cool tubes... think of it this way... the filter is like a big mouth sucking air in - now imagine that the mouth is trying to suck the same air in through a straw - basically that is what you are doing by placing the ducting in there.

When cool tubes have an advantage is when they have separate intake and exhaust, which don't require a carbon filter. Then a smaller fan with filter can be used for the grow area. An example of this is red-green's cab where he has a piece of glass or maybe even plexiglass separating the top of the cab where the 150 lamp is from the bottom where the growing is going on. This way he can successfully use a smaller computer type fan for the grow area with a home made filter and then a second computer type fan to pump the heat out of the upper chamber where the lamp is.

This is a pain though in a smaller setup.

 

[hoosierdaddy]

Your 172cfm fan may well be enough to cool the cabs if you have at least ~14 cubic inches of intake opening area in the preceding chamber.

Here is the thing...
You have a Can33 filter, which is a 6 or 8 inch flanged item. And as such was sized to be used with 6 or 8 inch flanged fans. Fans that are of the size you have do not have 6" flanges...because they are not adequate to handle such sized items.
If you research more closely, you will find that the fans that the mfg recommends create approx. 400CFM and have 6" flanges on them.
They create 400CFM because to net the rating of the filter and flow a true 200CFM, the heftier fan is needed. See, the pressure of the fan itself is great, and I can almost guarantee you that when you hook it up, your temps will skyrocket. But, I have often be proven wrong.

If we go against what has already been engineered to work, how can we possibly think we are sharp enough to fool nature and make a lesser design work?

It sucks for anyone to tell you that your plans may not work out, but measure out which is worse...getting a heads up now, or the frustration, money, time, you will loose to find out on your own.
But in my estimation, you will screw around in newb land forever unless you decide that you get the proper equipment to do the job properly.
Sure, you can make a computer case work with next to nothing...but that is what you will have is next to nothing. Really. A shy grow is very very frustrating. Trust me.

You have a real mans (or womans) case being built there, and it has the potential to put out enough bud to keep you in smoke as long as you care to have it. Top shelf smoke.
And unless your first grow or two provides you with more than enough to make you happy, you WILL be upgrading. Or giving it up to save the continued frustration...

 

[ambr0sia]

Here is the thing...
If you research more closely, you will find that the fans that the mfg recommends create approx. 400CFM and have 6" flanges on them.
They create 400CFM because to net the rating of the filter and flow a true 200CFM, the heftier fan is needed.

I think this may be exactly where I went wrong - The specs for the CAN33 call for a minimum of 100cfm and a maximum of 200cfm - I assumed this meant the actual speed of the unimpeded fan, not the cfm rating after the filter had been added.

It sucks for anyone to tell you that your plans may not work out, but measure out which is worse...getting a heads up now, or the frustration, money, time, you will loose to find out on your own.

I'm with you there, man - That's why I'm trying to run everything by you folks who actually know what you're doing before I get things up and running. For $30 more (plus shipping to and fro) I can get the 6" 449cfm Vortex here within a week or two - You think this would be the best bet, or should I go the other direction and get a less beefy filter, say a CAN 2600?

hey ambrosia - I think you are confused with what people have said about the height and scrogging or LST and the heat

I think you might be right...

 

[sugabear_II]

hoosierdaddy - yes the can 33 is normally flanged to 6" or 8" ... but you can buy a 6-4" reducer. As for the bigger filter needing a bigger fan, it is my understanding that having a smaller fan with a bigger filter isn't a problem. The larger the filter, the more the surface area of intake and carbon there is presented. So actually a can 33 is more free flowing than a smaller cfm can 9000 or can 2600. While I think a can 9000 would get the job done and still fit into the space for ambrosia, a can33 will flow more freely and last longer because it has more carbon. Knowing that the cabinet will be in a cooler section of the house I think it will not have a problem cooling things.

I agree with you on getting the parts together and then figuring it out, although that is always tough on the nerves it is sometimes the only way to go.

-suga

 

[bounty29]

I'm planning on buying a CAN 33 for my 4" vortex, I don't think there will be any problems. There will be a lot more surface area, and the air will be moving slowly over it. This is exactly what you want with a carbon filter. And a 172cfm will surely be able to pull at least 100cfm through the filter. Keep the heat from the bulbs blown towards the exhaust and away from the plants, and the air is going to be changed out of that cabinet three times a minute even if it's only running at 100cfm. Unless your ambient temps will be 75+ frequently, I'd say it would work.

He's doing the job more properly than most members I've seen in planning.

 

[Indica Monkey]

Avoid the can2600, I was running one hooked upto a 130CFM inline and the house was stinking with 2 Mazar's in veg.

I would also like to say that I am running a 130CFM hooked upto matching filter which practically halves the airflow, the fan is also turned down 30% to keep the noise down and the temps in the tent are fine. The temps outside the tent are around 22C, just something to think about.

 

[ambr0sia]

Ok, so here's what I think I'm gonna do, barring any advice to the contrary; I think sugabear is right that this fan will work in my cab, but I'd rather not play around with "barely / maybe". I'll RMA the 4" Vortex for the 6" (I've got a speed controller anyhow, may as well put it to use); Then, I'll take sugabear's suggestion and really open up the area from the flower chamber to the vent room; Perhaps combining the best of the advice I've received so far into one design will yeild some interesting results!

I'm still confused about the filter's cfm rating - Specs say max 200cfm, min 100cfm.. If that means the fan's rating before the filter is attached, getting a bigger fan is only going to overwhelm the filter and defeat it's purpose. If it means the cfm of air moving through it, then the 449 should be ok at around 75% power, correct?

 

[Pipedream]

ambr0sia, quick question...... are you growing just for yourself, you and a partner, or a small group? The only reason I ask is that I and most others, even heavy smokers, can't out-smoke a single 150. And that being the case, it sure simplifies things and keeps the set-up and operating expenses to a minimum.

 

[ambr0sia]

ambr0sia, quick question...... are you growing just for yourself, you and a partner, or a small group? The only reason I ask is that I and most others, even heavy smokers, can't out-smoke a single 150. And that being the case, it sure simplifies things and keeps the set-up and operating expenses to a minimum.

Good question; I'm growing for myself and one other person, an elderly HIV+ patient who is unable to provide for herself. Beyond this, I'm also a fan of edibles, which as I'm sure you know tend to take a bit more off the goodly green to reach the desired effect...

The biggest reason the cab is the size it is, though, is because it's doubling as a workbench, which wouldn't make logistical sense unless it covered the entire width of the 6ft wide wall it's up against. I figured since I had the extra space, I may as well make a dedicated ventilation / storage room and throw that extra 150 into the mix.

 

[jasonk]

anyways sorry for the tripple post morning but I have the day offf....

Please sir, never apologize again.
Thanks for the words of wisdom, as well as you Pipedream.
The balcony is completely covered, so melting snow won't be an issue, I never thought of the humidity steaming through the exhaust though. We're moving in 3 weeks and Im just starting the pre-planning in my head, doing it right the first time this round. Once I get in there I'll have a better idea of what's possible indoor or out.

The whole isolated system with CO2 burner isnt something I've ever heard of before, and dont really wanna start experimenting with that. Any links to someone with that set up though? You got me interested.

Thanks for all the info everyone and keep it up with the great bud-shots.

 

[killa-bud]

nice work killa-bud

so which picture is which? I am guessing the burmese pure f2s are the top picture?

-suga

thanks,in the top pic,just the biggest nug is the sdxog,the rest are the burmese,

the burmese and the sdxog look REALLY similer,which i wasnt expecting at all...not while they were growing tho..

 

[Cozy Amnesia]

again I think the cool tube is going overboard and is totally going to make things more complicated for you. Cool tubes are best employed for when you have a separate closed ducting for them without a carbon filter and then a smaller system with filter for the grow space - so two fans - one for the lights only and one for the room. hard to do on small scale (I tried with my first 150 cab fwiw).

Like this?



That'd be mine. The tops of the buds have grown all the way past the hight of the light and the ones directly below it are staying that way. But if they do reach touch the light, I don't think they'll burn because I can comfertably hold my hand on the cooltube and I don't think it's above 95 degrees F on the tube itself.

Dayton's a pretty cheap (a 256cfm is around $60) and available at graingers if you can get them to sell it cash and carry.... They're louder and less capable of moving air then an inline. I've never seen them hooked inline stylee but it is possible. Saying this on second thought I think your 172cfm inline will be fine, just ditch the cool tubes, open the airflow into the



2ft is good ... you will have plenty of space.

I hope you don't mind that I've modified your diagram a little... to show a more free flowing design that will I think work better.




p.s. I also got rid of dem pine trees for you

Sugerbear you're a god damn genius.

 

[cajun79]

Guys

I need a cool tube or maybe build a air cooled hood, had to find for a 150w hps.

Im also in the UK and we dont have bake arounds at all, becoming frustrating!

 

[ambr0sia]

Guys

I need a cool tube or maybe build a air cooled hood, had to find for a 150w hps.
Im also in the UK and we dont have bake arounds at all, becoming frustrating!

As far as I know, Bake-A-Rounds are out of production world-wide. The only place I've been able to reliably find them is eBay.

Failing that, most craft stores sell "hurricane glass" and other lamp / candle shades that ought to fit the bill...

 

[Pipedream]

Also check out Sporting Goods stores. You'll find various replacement "globes" for Coleman-type camping lanterns. They are designed for both high-heat and maximum light transference.

 

[poppasmirf]

heating problems with 100W HPS

heating problems with 100W HPS

I have been growing for years, but had to shut down my cabinet after i had roomies move in. Now id like to grow again but would also like to solve my heating issue..I have a 100W sun system micro HPS, with enclosed ballast. This sucker really heats up with the ballast. I have been able to keep my cabinet just below 30 degrees celcius, using a blower fan on 12 hr cycle and having two 23W CFL's. The blower/scroll fan is really noisy, it sounds like a high powered hair dryer, im sure the neighbors could hear it. My flowering room is 2' Length X 1 1/2' Width X 4 1/2' Hight,.... I picked up two 105 CFM muffin fans or axial fans for free, so i was thinking of using one for intake and one for the outtake.. Do you think i should try wiring these up? or do you think im going to waist my time and materials?? i dont want to start drilling holes and soldering to find out its not enough. Or if you think i should have two outtake fans?? Ill post picks if people need a better idea of what im dealing with. thanks in advance

 

[exploziv]

from my experience, if you have fan for intake and another for exhaust, and their capacity isn't exactly the same, when i say that i mean they can be same brand same model and have a slight difference.. from that difference the movement of the air through the slower fan will create a noise, let's say little noise (like a pc source fan makes, you can hear it only when all background noise is very small, but for my that is insuportable). i would recommend 2 exhaust fans and passive intake. also the intake hole is better to be a little biger than the surface of the holes in that you put the fans.

good luck!

 

[poppasmirf]

heating problems with 100W HPS

heating problems with 100W HPS

Groovy....thanks a bunch for the advice, huge help.. but by passive intake im guessing now i have to worry about a 12" hole as an intake??gotta be another way, thats hard to seal for light, unless someone has some tricks for me. and im not sure if i can wire the two 115V fans together on the same cord, parallel or series, i dunno ??? i gotta cut down on the cordage, not so stealth anymore HAHA. I tried to post a picture of my cabinet but its not working for me, its in my member photos if anyone is curious or has any ideas for me. thanks again for the speedy response

 

[green_grow]

poppasmurf ... is there any way you can make that ballast remote ? also, what size is your intake; sounds like you may need a larger intake. i am cooling a similar sized cabinet with only 1 x 3" computer fan.

 

[cajun79]

Pipedream, I sourced a coleman replacement lamp for a good price, the guy says it measures 11.5cm x 11cm, my bulb is around 14cm will this be fine?