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co2 growing
- Thread starter Macster2
- Start date
CO2 is for the grower not the plants.
never seen a differance as long as i used it....
never seen a differance as long as i used it....
G
Guest
I see a big difference,the problem at first was I wasnt using a controller with my generator,just a cyclestat timer.I also use 3 1K vertizontals to flower with and got 6 lbs on my last two harvests.Actually I changed three things.I got a co2 controller for my generator,started using R/O water,and kicked my temps up to 85 at the canopy.Before the changes I was right around 4 lbs also with 3K.You wont notice an increase in plant size and it wont finish faster although through the stretch growth is phenominal.What you will notice is your plants literally falling over from the added weight,its remarkable.A 25-30% increase in weight is just about exactly what I've experienced.Part of the difference may be the R/O water but its mostly having the co2 controlled with no more than a 200PPM swing for the entire 12 hours I think.A cyclestat timer controls generator output by room size and doesnt take into account the number or size of plants.If you don't control the co2 use R/O water and keep temps high,your chances of experiencing any real difference is small
Macster2
Member
Tks American
Can you provide more details, is your room sealed ?temps?hydro? table sizes etc.
If I go with co2 I don't want to make mistakes.
Digital Hippy: your the first I've heard to say they've not had results however I've heard it said not to go that way until everything is dialed in
Can you provide more details, is your room sealed ?temps?hydro? table sizes etc.
If I go with co2 I don't want to make mistakes.
Digital Hippy: your the first I've heard to say they've not had results however I've heard it said not to go that way until everything is dialed in
G
Guest
Sealed 8 by 8 flowerroom with 3 1K vertizontals,green air cd-6 propane co2 generator,PPM3 co2 controller,12K BTU window AC,45 pint dehumidifier.I grow in soil and flower in 3 gal pots.You want to get a lazer thermometer also and keep temps at around 85 F at the canopy.You also want an R/O system.
G
Guest
I got an undercabinet 5 stage reverse osmosis system for about 150 bucks online,it reduces the PPM's of your tapwater to near zero.Then you control exactly what goes into the soil.I was using calcified tapwater and it would lock out magnesium and phosphorous in flower.I set my CAP PPM-3 controller for 1500 PPM and have the generator on a timer so it burns only when the lights are on.The CAP signals the burner to engage at 50 PPM below setpoint,at 1450 PPM and burns until 50 PPM after setpoint at 1550.The co2 level will normally rise to around 1700 PPM before slowly falling to 1450 before the burner engages again.The key is the small swing in PPM from 200-250.The plant adjusts quickly with the higher temps and co2 and dont become confused with wide variations.I couldnt achieve this with a cyclestat timer only a controller.
G
Guest
I use a green air CD-6 (600 cu ft 1 burner).The next size up is a dual burner CD-12 for 1200 cu ft.I use the vaportek optimum 4000 with 120 day classic neutral cartridges and pay off my nearest neighbors haha.No actually it works pretty well.
G
Guest
You can do that,just hang it unducted to cleanse the room.A can filter would be more effective than what I use probably
guest2222999 said:
untill you have perfect conditions, all the timers, every nute u need and have the ability to fix def's before they become a problem, ASWELL AS have your strain mastered, ro water, ph/ppm pen co2 is useless.
even with 100% co2 is worthless.
the american probably had a bomb crop, but they would have been just as good as the CO2....the co2 isnt "the thing" that made them the best they can be. it was the combination of right lumins, temps at all times of growth, mold/fungi infections/bugs were not present. no nute burns or defs' was what made them grow excelent.
G
Guest
50 watts per sq ft,a wall AC and a dehumidifier, and presto you have an environment where co2 enrichment will increase your yield considerably,its not really any big deal.The important thing is not wasting time with yeast,paintball dry ice or a dozen other fly by night procedures for creating co2.Its not difficult to create co2,it is expensive and mandatory to control it though if you want to see results.Controlling means a co2 enrichment level that will not fluctuate wildly during the 12 hours of lights on.co2 fluctuations are death to enrichment
G
Guest
If time is cut at all its during the stretch IMO,not flowering or ripening as they use less and less co2 the closer you get to harvest.The first 3-4 weeks are just crazy growth and the plants transpire like a mofo.I can pull almost 4 gallons of water out of an 8 by 8 room full of stretching plants in a 24 hour period.Then things slow down at day 30 and I'm only pulling half the water,the plants are still utilizing the excess co2 though.At day 45-50 on a 60 day strain the plants basically dont use the excess co2 so I've read.Nobody speaks of lowering temps at this point to avoid cattails and add color since the plants are utilizing normal amounts of co2,why is that?I'm going to kill the 85 degree temps at day 45 and lower both day and night temps next time around for kicks
G
Guest
I veg a long time 5-6 weeks and usually end with 4 ft plants,blockhead doesnt stretch much.The last thing I want growing in soil is a sog.I've tried flowering a larger number of smaller plants in 2 gal pots but 3 gal is where I've settled
G
Guest
Because everyone down here does hydro and I dont want to learn,I know it has many advantages.If you go for it don't half step it like I did for too long,get a controller and either a generator or tank and regulator.I like generators heat isnt an issue in my room at all
