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Best thing I EVER added to my res...

K

Keep goin

Member
So, I've recently tried adding a fish tank filter to my 25 gal hydro res.

Holy crap...the results are amazing!!

I have never seen such a clean res, or such healthy plants!

I have for years run no dump res and experimented with all sorts of different combos of products. Some worked some didn't. By the end...or even the middle of the run I would get some slime building up on my air lines and pump lines. Always made it through though, then would just scrub everything out. No problem.

Now I have added a simple, cheap fish tank filter (tetra) right from wally world. Bio bag filter...which you replace monthly (cheap, couple of bucks )...which harbors/ cultivates beneficial bacteria, and a simple mesh filter which can be washed out.

I'm running GH 3 part, keeping an eye on my EC, that's it. Looks like I could drink my solution, just slightly tinted color. Gorgeous results. I have been foliar feeding with Flourolicous Plus and a carbo product. The plants look incredible!!

I have yet to see it all the way through...I'm currently 4 weeks into 8.5 or 9. (just in the wanting of disclosure) But so far so very good. (And I've seen enough to have a handle on what's happening, and how it will turn out!!)

Just wanted to share...I'm always trying to help others out, and like the thread title says this is the best thing I've ever seen. I added the 10-30 gal version to my one res...they even have a 2-10 gal version which I put into my EZ cloner...all very promising!! I currently have plans to add one to each of my reservoirs. I'm even thinking that the 2-10 gal one would work great in a "side show" 5 gal DWC.

So far the only "bad" thing I have even remotely noticed is the need of a touch more of the "green" bottle (couple of extra mL per gal) That's it!

Let me know if anyone knows of any reason not to use fish filters in hydro...otherwise everyone should add one tomorrow!! It's incredible!

Good Luck all

KG
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hush

hush

Señor Member
Veteran
This is a great idea! Just make sure that you don't use activated carbon in your filter, because that might actually absorb your nutrients.
 
cravin morehead

cravin morehead

Active member
Veteran
welcome to bio-buckets. well, not exactly. you are starting to see the benefits of running a 'bio system'. read up on bio-buckets and you just may convert your style to 'set it and forget it' bio-buckets...

cm
 
PetFlora

PetFlora

Well-known member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Best thing I ever added was switching from various name brand nutrients to Hydroponic-Research VEG+BLOOM

It is totally complete, AND, pH stable
 
S

SeaMaiden

If it's a biological filter that's helping you, you should get into the habit of not replacing it and having to rebuild your nitrifying populations all over again. At most, rinse it, and rinse only part of it. I'm not familiar with the particular 'thing' you're using as you describe it, but that's what I would do.
 
K

Keep goin

Member
Hey Hush...yeah, I think it does have activated carbon, and I think I did notice some absorption problems at first...but a bit more of the green bottle added to the solution, and within a week or so everything balanced out and looked fine.

Cravin...I actually ran bio buckets and am familiar with the concept. This is a lot easier and doesn't take the same level of "specific" set up as the bio bucket system. IDK..my thoughts anyway. This is more versatile...I mean I even put it in my EZ cloner...and I could see putting a small 2-10 gal unit in a 5 gal DWC stand alone to improve the results.

moodster...no picture, sorry. But tetra fish filter. That's it, easy to find in any pet store, or pet section of a big store. I've seen other brands...but I picked up the tetra and just sized it to my res.

Pet flora, I actually want to try that nute line myself...looks awesome. I would still use the filter though, regardless of the nute I choose. (from the results I have seen...clean as a whistle)

Sea Maiden...I do realize that's what's helping me (it was one of the reasons I wanted to try it, along with the cleanliness)...do you really think not exchanging the "bio-bag" is the move?? They (the manufacturer) suggests rinsing the filter part as you suggest...but replacing the "bio-bag" part. Let me know if you have specific info about that. Thanks...

Good luck all...
 
festerous

festerous

Member
Veteran
I have two fresh water aquariums, both have been carbon free for over two years. My water is crystal clear and the fish are happy. I have not changed the water at all, only topped off.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Keep goin said:
Hey Hush...yeah, I think it does have activated carbon, and I think I did notice some absorption problems at first...but a bit more of the green bottle added to the solution, and within a week or so everything balanced out and looked fine.

Cravin...I actually ran bio buckets and am familiar with the concept. This is a lot easier and doesn't take the same level of "specific" set up as the bio bucket system. IDK..my thoughts anyway. This is more versatile...I mean I even put it in my EZ cloner...and I could see putting a small 2-10 gal unit in a 5 gal DWC stand alone to improve the results.

moodster...no picture, sorry. But tetra fish filter. That's it, easy to find in any pet store, or pet section of a big store. I've seen other brands...but I picked up the tetra and just sized it to my res.

Pet flora, I actually want to try that nute line myself...looks awesome. I would still use the filter though, regardless of the nute I choose. (from the results I have seen...clean as a whistle)

Sea Maiden...I do realize that's what's helping me (it was one of the reasons I wanted to try it, along with the cleanliness)...do you really think not exchanging the "bio-bag" is the move?? They (the manufacturer) suggests rinsing the filter part as you suggest...but replacing the "bio-bag" part. Let me know if you have specific info about that. Thanks...

Good luck all...
Click to expand...

The specific information is that if there's carbon in there, once it's ad/absorbed compounds, it's done. However, it does also provide 'housing' for microbes, specifically Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter spp (you'll recognize those genus names if you're into soil science at all--they're your nitrifiers; i.e. they oxidize NH4 {ammonia} --> NO2 {nitrite} --> {nitrate} NO3).

Now, that's the rub with the bio-bag, it's the condominium complex for your nitrifiers. See, they're benthic, meaning that they must live attached to surfaces (as opposed to free-floating, which are pretty much almost never good), so they need that housing. If you remove completely all that housing, you have to build up the populations of nitrifiers all over again. Why? There's no logical reason to do that, but there are plenty of logical reasons to rinse the carbon and replace or recharge it.

Unless the manufacturer has somehow figured out how to keep that media inoculated with those species of bacteria, it makes zero sense to me to wait on rebuilding those populations, which in freshwater takes about 2 weeks for the whole cycle to complete.

Do you want an explanation on how this cycle goes? You're not running an aquarium, and I think you do want some readable NH4 in there, as it's what plants can utilize directly, IIRC. Not just the NO3.
 
K

Keep goin

Member
SeaMaiden said:
The specific information is that if there's carbon in there, once it's ad/absorbed compounds, it's done. However, it does also provide 'housing' for microbes, specifically Nitrosomonas and Nitrobacter spp (you'll recognize those genus names if you're into soil science at all--they're your nitrifiers; i.e. they oxidize NH4 {ammonia} --> NO2 {nitrite} --> {nitrate} NO3).

Unfortunately, I am not...there is carbon within the filter. Although I was in the store today and noticed they sell a replacement bio bag with the carbon separate (you build it). Would you suggest the just rinse method you mentioned, or replacement without the carbon??

Now, that's the rub with the bio-bag, it's the condominium complex for your nitrifiers. See, they're benthic, meaning that they must live attached to surfaces (as opposed to free-floating, which are pretty much almost never good), so they need that housing. If you remove completely all that housing, you have to build up the populations of nitrifiers all over again. Why? There's no logical reason to do that, but there are plenty of logical reasons to rinse the carbon and replace or recharge it.

So, keep the carbon in?? and just rinse? You clearly have more of a handle on this than me...thanks for the tips!

 Unless the manufacturer has somehow figured out how to keep that media inoculated with those species of bacteria, it makes zero sense to me to wait on rebuilding those populations, which in freshwater takes about 2 weeks for the whole cycle to complete.

This timing makes sense to me...that was about how long things looked a bit "washed out". Then they were off to the races!

Do you want an explanation on how this cycle goes? You're not running an aquarium, and I think you do want some readable NH4 in there, as it's what plants can utilize directly, IIRC. Not just the NO3.
Click to expand...

Umm...^^Yes please!!

I'm always looking for info from those (like yourself) more knowledgeable than me!

I'm just trying to help others out (who need it)...never afraid to learn more myself...

Thanks in advance

KG

sweden...not sure about autopots? (not familiar with them) But I would guess that this would be useful to anyone running a reservoir system. If you have a standing reservoir, I would try it.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Keep goin said:
Umm...^^Yes please!!

I'm always looking for info from those (like yourself) more knowledgeable than me!

I'm just trying to help others out (who need it)...never afraid to learn more myself...

Thanks in advance

KG

sweden...not sure about autopots? (not familiar with them) But I would guess that this would be useful to anyone running a reservoir system. If you have a standing reservoir, I would try it.
Click to expand...
Please remember, I don't run a reservoir. What I'm discussing with you is based on my years in the aquatic ornamental trade--large volumes and numbers of fish and other aquatic animals, along with exotics--involving thousands upon thousands of gallons of systems.


So, if you can separate the carbon from the biological media, I would do that.

Carbon is generally considered to be a type of chemical filtration, because it is a molecular process by which it 'locks' onto compounds (adsorption or absorption). However, due to its highly porous nature, it does also provide homes for benthic nitrifiers. So, it seems to me that your goal should be twofold--provide suitable, constant housing for the microbes, while allowing the carbon to perform whatever chemical magic it's performing in your reservoir.

Separate them. Keep carbon rinsed until it's spent, keep bio-media and stop replacing it. If you do replace it, keep some of the old as an inoculant for the new. This can help shorten up the cycle.
 
K

Keep goin

Member
Thanks SeaMaiden...

They do offer the carbon separate. The "bio-media" then just appears to be the surrounding bag/ mesh part of the system. Not sure how I would "keep some" to inoculate the new? It's just a one piece "drop in" style system. Perhaps just rinsing mid round, replace at end of round would work?

Also from what you are saying the carbon is "filtering" but also helping by housing the benthic nitrifiers you mentioned. So I'm not sure removing it would be ideal? What do you think? Does the carbon stop filtering after a week or so?? Then become beneficial?

I have just passed the 5 week mark...so replacement is called for. But I have not done it. I have not even rinsed it yet...all seems good. Deep green, no signs of deficiency, insane results.

I added one to my cloner...awesome!! Added another to my second res...from the start of the cycle. I've never seen such fantastic results.

I am interested in further technical info (for learning purposes)...but I would highly recommend this to anyone running a res of any kind. The results speak for themselves.

Thanks
KG
 
b8man

b8man

Well-known member
Veteran
I'll try this on the next grow - thanks for the tip Keep Goin.

Best additive for my tank so far is Drip Clean solution. But with blumats you want to keep the water clear so an extra filter should be beneficial.
 
Crusader Rabbit

Crusader Rabbit

Active member
Veteran
Is this a filter that hangs on the side of the tank or is it submersible?

edit; Duh, I used the google and checked out their selection. All their filters hang from the side.
 
festerous

festerous

Member
Veteran
I would not change anything. My point was no need to run carbon in the first place. Bio Balls or lava rocks work just fine.
 
S

SeaMaiden

Keep goin said:
Thanks SeaMaiden...

They do offer the carbon separate. The "bio-media" then just appears to be the surrounding bag/ mesh part of the system. Not sure how I would "keep some" to inoculate the new? It's just a one piece "drop in" style system. Perhaps just rinsing mid round, replace at end of round would work?

Also from what you are saying the carbon is "filtering" but also helping by housing the benthic nitrifiers you mentioned. So I'm not sure removing it would be ideal? What do you think? Does the carbon stop filtering after a week or so?? Then become beneficial?

I have just passed the 5 week mark...so replacement is called for. But I have not done it. I have not even rinsed it yet...all seems good. Deep green, no signs of deficiency, insane results.

I added one to my cloner...awesome!! Added another to my second res...from the start of the cycle. I've never seen such fantastic results.

I am interested in further technical info (for learning purposes)...but I would highly recommend this to anyone running a res of any kind. The results speak for themselves.

Thanks
KG
Click to expand...
How long the carbon lasts will be a function of what's in the water. In saltwater applications, for example, carbon doesn't last more than a week or two, because between the compounds of saltwater itself, the microbes and animal waste, sites get filled up very quickly.

Can you either post up a picture of this thing, or can you get into the bag itself? I would remove only part of the media. Although, based on what you're describing it seems that perhaps an equilibrium has been found.

I'm envisioning something like a paint strainer type of bag, filled with media and dropped into the res.
 
K

Keep goin

Member
Hey...here is a link to the replacement bio bag part for the filter I'm running. http://http://www.tetra-fish.com/sites/tetrafish/catalog/Detail.aspx?id=4220

If I can run without the carbon...so be it. But so far so good, right out of the box.

The results are sick...highly recommended!

Yeah CrusaderR hangs right over the side...the bottom of the filter has a submersible pump within it. As long as you keep that underwater you're good. You have the option of hanging over the edge, which I'm doing in my 25 gal res. Or you can remove the hook and replace it with a second suction cup...that's the set up I'm using in my EZ cloner.

Good Luck
KG
 
Crusader Rabbit

Crusader Rabbit

Active member
Veteran
I have multiple reservoirs with ebb and flow tubs. The system lets me be gone for ten days while the water level drops. I'm trying to figure out how I could adapt this to my situation. I think I'd be best with a free pump at the bottom pushing water up through tubing to a filter hanging on the reservoir's rim. Seems that the cascading aerating waterfall effect is really important here.

I'm really glad you told us about this. :thank you:
 
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