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honey from gross pipe resin

Ipsissimus

Ipsissimus

Member
Wow is all I can say.

picture.php


:yoinks: I am stunned. Gold from nasty resin.

Over the years I've found nothing cleans a bowl like hot rubbing alcohol. Bonus is you can let the alcohol evaporate and save the resin, if you are desperate - you get way more than you would with a paperclip, less mess. I've always wondered, how can I get goods, and leave the gunk?

I recently found that naptha or hexane will selectively grab the cannabinoids from the alcohol, leaving the tar and crap. You can then separate, and evap the solvent leaving the goods.

Step 1:
Place bowl in ziploc bag. Put enough 70% rubbing alcohol in the ziploc to submerge bowl partially. Zip it up, place in the microwave for 20-40 seconds, just long enough until the alcohol starts to boil and the bag starts to puff up. Alcohol boils at lower temperatures than water, so you can handle the bag like a hot potato. Cradle with a towel if need be, and shake like crazy. Open the ziploc, drain the alcohol through a coffee filter into a mason jar. If the bowl is still resinated, repeat.

The beauty of using the ziplock is that there is no smell - all the fumes from boiling are contained in the bag. Remove bowl, rinse, and the bowl is should be clean. This in itself is a great way to clean a bowl.

Step 2:
Add about 1/4 cup of naptha/hexane to the mason jar containing the black alcohol. Shake vigorously (no emulsion should form). The top solvent will turn a golden/reddish hue, and the alcohol will stay nasty and black on the bottom. Evaporate the solvent, leaving you with the cannabinoids. I separated the solvent by pouring the contents of the mason jar into a ziploc bag, allowed it to settle, then snipped the corner and allowed the alcohol (bottom layer) to pour back into the mason jar, then moved over a pyrex dish and evaporated the naptha with a hair dryer in a well ventilated area.

The oil only FAINTLY tastes of resin, and is more active than some straight iso-oil runs on herb I've done. I'll likely be doing this again, so I'll have more feedback on the process. I'll collect my cleaning alcohol in a mason jar, and then after I get a bunch, do this again.

*dislcaimer - make sure your similar solvent leaves no residue when evaporated on a mirror. otherwise you might be smoking petrol contaminants.

:abduct:
 
Gray Wolf

Gray Wolf

A Posse ad Esse. From Possibility to realization.
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Good experiment! I hadn’t considered doing the alcohol wash first.

I saved my dry pipe bowl cleanings for a year and used a hexane extraction to remove the oils, after which I filterer using panty hose, permanent coffee filter, and paper coffee filter. After evaporation, I re-dissolved the hash oil in ethanol cooked down the mixture to close to super saturation before settling and decanting with a dropper.

The oil was only slightly more dark than decarboxylated honey oil and had a strong head effect but not much high, more like a stupor at OD. It also produced a couch lock, lowered my blood pressure, lowered my heart rate, and served as a laxative.

The taste was hashy, with a mild eu de ashtray after taste. The extracted oil also still had a mild ashtray odor.

I’m guessing that the remaining odor and flavor remain in the carbon that was finer than the coffee filter. I had planned to use a finer filter and vacuum filtration next round, but maybe I will try the alcohol first.

GW
 
Ipsissimus

Ipsissimus

Member
awesome to see some interest out there! jump117 your post is a great technical explanation - I would've chimed in enthusiastically had I caught your post! funny how we both came to the same idea, I was surprised it worked! I figured all the goods would all stay with the tars, moving to whichever solvent was stronger, or that pH would need to be adjusted, temperature, etc..Actually I figured all crap would go into the naptha, and hoped the goods would stay in the alcohol, but the reverse is WAY more clean!

GW you will be amazed - the hexane is very selective. try using hot alcohol for cleaning pieces, then pour it through a coffee filter into a mason jar. accumulate, add hexane/naptha/non polar solvent, shake, separate, evap, :abduct:
 
Ipsissimus

Ipsissimus

Member
jump117 if you don't mind I'm going to quote you here, it's good info.

jump117 said:
Recently I described on another forum the old school trick that maybe interest and useful here now.

In case of primary isopropyl extraction on dried materials we have solution of useful resin and many unwanted components in alcohol.
If it is already evaporated extract it is better to dissolve it in iso back.
At this step you may previously deep freeze and then filter a solution as colleague ( Hey Gunnaknow!) teaches.

Alcohol is a polar (i.e. water soluble) solvent, butan and lighter fluid are non-polar (i.e. water insoluble).

Resin is both polar (iso,ethanol,aceton) and non-polar (butan, fluid) soluble.

Some other unwanted components of a dried materials dissolved in alcohol does not dissolve in non-polar fluid.

This difference allows to isolate this components in primary solution.

When we mix and shake alco solution and a fluid, the two solvents are in contact as an emulsion and a resin (part of) redissolves from alco into fluid along with any satellites of the same solubility.

After the mix emulsion is keeping still for a time it will split in two layers.

The lower layer is a primary alco solution.

The upper layer is a fluid. It was colorless before but it becomes yellow after because of dissolved resin and sattelites.
It have to be removed as a cleaned solution to further evaporation.

These steps above may be repeated several times with new portions of fluid if needed.
The amount of output will decrease in every run.

You can make the process more contrast by adding some water to shake then the mix will split in three layers.
The new one in the middle consists of waxes as they say. I prefer to leave a water mix to a finish run.

Correct proportions of solution (more) to fluid (less) and a number and timing of runs is to be defined empirically.

I’ve used this method on small amounts while cleaning up a pipe resin condensate and used a 25 ml syringe as an improvised mix vessel and separating funnel in one.

It is dangerous to evaporate!

A lighter fluid has a Synonyms: Ligroin; VM&P Naphtha; Benzin; Petroleum Naphtha, Naphtha ASTM, Petroleum Spirits, Petroleum Ether of varying boiling point ranges from 20 to 75C (68 to 167F)
DANGER! EXTREMELY FLAMMABLE LIQUID AND VAPOR. VAPOR MAY CAUSE FLASH FIRE. HARMFUL OR FATAL IF SWALLOWED. HARMFUL IF INHALED. MAY AFFECT CENTRAL NERVOUS SYSTEM. MAY CAUSE IRRITATION TO SKIN, EYES, AND RESPIRATORY TRACT.
Click to expand...
 
Ipsissimus

Ipsissimus

Member
You can make the process more contrast by adding some water to shake then the mix will split in three layers.
The new one in the middle consists of waxes as they say. I prefer to leave a water mix to a finish run.
Click to expand...

wouldn't the water go into the alcohol layer?
 
reverev313

reverev313

Active member
you never had the ziplock bag just pop open in the mwave?.......i could never get my pipe completely clean.
 
J

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
Ipsissimus said:
wouldn't the water go into the alcohol layer?
Click to expand...
Yes, the water goes into alco layer and makes it look milky.
Third layer that appears in between two ones consists of something like a foam from below and a sponge from above.
And it looks like solid state dirty fractions since we had transparent filtered liquids one step before adding water.
It takes a little more time and shaking to drive it into steady three layers but it looks very showiness.
I've read about this polar/nonpolar lock in an old note about isometrization and practised many times.
 
Ipsissimus

Ipsissimus

Member
interesting.

reverev313 - no I just open the microwave before the bag pops - the goal is to get it hot, then shake, not let it sit in the boiling alcohol (like you would with water).

on another note, I bet this would be a great way to clean up some weak qwiso!
 
M

mangledp00n

New member
OK, I've followed all steps to the letter. now I've got a jar of amber liquid that has two bowls, a chillum, a hand bubb and a spoon worth of resin in it. I've added 1/4 cup naphtha (hexane) and 5 ml's water so that i'm sure I see where the boundary layer is .
but here's the problem.. there is no boundary layer when am I to expect some coalescence here... I did shake the piss out of this thing..
 
Ipsissimus

Ipsissimus

Member
did the emulsion separate? I can't imagine it taking that long. I didn't shake mine very hard, it separated almost immediately. Next step would be to add salt, but I think time will let it separate without adding anything.
 
J

jump117

Well-known member
Veteran
I've met this effect only once when I was using lighter fluid of a shady origin as a non-polar component.
 
Last edited:
gunnaknow

gunnaknow

Active member
mangledp00n said:
OK, I've followed all steps to the letter. now I've got a jar of amber liquid that has two bowls, a chillum, a hand bubb and a spoon worth of resin in it. I've added 1/4 cup naphtha (hexane) and 5 ml's water so that i'm sure I see where the boundary layer is .
but here's the problem.. there is no boundary layer when am I to expect some coalescence here... I did shake the piss out of this thing..
Click to expand...

Hexane is miscible with ethanol and isopropyl alcohol. Naptha comes in many different grades, the light aliphatic grades contain more of the short chained hydrocarbons, such as hexane and heptane, which are miscible with ethanol and isopropyl alcohol. The heavier grades of naptha are less miscible with ethanol or iso but they have higher boiling points and are therefore more difficult to vape. You might get away with using light aliphatic naptha or hexane, if you don't shake the shit out of it, which you already have. Unless ofcourse you're using methanol as the primary solvent, which isn't miscible with hexane.
 
Strainbrain

Strainbrain

Chairman of the Joint Chiefs
Veteran
The whole point is to remove the repulsive shit from the good oils, which are worth keeping. (We were all 17 once, don't you lie to me and claim you never scraped and smoked your pipe resin.)

It seems like this process is effective, so is the cleaned result still repulsive? If so, don't ever let anyone tell you how municipal wastewater treatment is done.

-s
 
Ipsissimus

Ipsissimus

Member
It seems like this process is effective, so is the cleaned result still repulsive? If so, don't ever let anyone tell you how municipal wastewater treatment is done.
Click to expand...

:yeahthats Even some bottled water like Dasani is treated city water.

wanted to add:

there's a hardware store in the US that's an "Ace" that carries vm&p naptha. This with 70% iso. alcohol has worked a charm, no emulsions for me.

if the alcohol is hot, don't vigorously shake the jar - the air gets hot and expands, forcing it out of any cracks, making a mess. I seem to relearn this one a lot ;)

You don't have to filter the alcohol before the naptha extraction, but the ziploc hole gets clogged when separating, slowing it down, tempting you to make a bigger hole, and then everything goes through all at once, making you start over, but you're out of zip-locs...so on and do forth :wallbash:
:biglaugh:
 
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