The Kratky Method By Dr. Bernard Kratky .

Snipp snipp defoiliation. Have used defoiliation a lot and i like it. Want the plant short and bushy (hide in plain sight spot). Preflowers are showing and soon the stretch kicks in, think it was perfect time for defoiliation. I know its a hot topic (defoiliation) so let us just leave it and focus on the Kratky methode.

RainerRocks:

The Kratky Method By Dr. Bernard Kratky .
I been watching tons of youtube video's on every type of Hydroponics plus reading several forums.

Anyway I came upon this video "The Kratky Method " on youtube and was wondering if anyone has ever tried it.

Here's a youtube video of someone growing many leafy greens using the Kratky method .

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I did a search here using the name "Kratky" and nothing showed up here and other forums. I use the same UN on all grow forums so I'll post this on other forums also and ask.

Anyway I searched the Web and found this PDF.

This method was developed at the College of Tropical Agriculture at the University of Hawaii at Manoa
by Dr. Bernard Kratky. Here's his PDF file on comparing 3 different non-circulating hydroponics
methods for growing lettuce.

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PS: At least you would be able to eat if things got bad due to some kind of catastrophe....just be
sure to always carry some seeds with ya just in case...Hmmmm not a bad idea .


Hi, RainerRocks.

Thanks for sharing. The second link does not work. This might be of interest:
Square Root® Brand Garden Bag - Drain-To-No-Waste [Methods]

Hi, delta9nxs.

Thanks for link.

Hi, dudin.

Good to view your posts, gardening well.

Kind regards,
/SRGB/

@srgb hi again thanks for the bag.
Read your link and think its a nice easy way to grow.

@Srgb The drain to no waist solution you suggest looks a lot like the reservoir hempy I ran. I believe using a fabric pot and an upside down net pot in the bottom would add a lot of air and then you could raise the level in the rez giving you a couple of extra days. Just an idea. Saw something like that when I youtubed Bernard Kratky. Clever guy that Kratky fella.

dudin:
@srgb hi again thanks for the bag.
Read your link and think its a nice easy way to grow.


Hi, dudin.

You are welcome. How is the SRBGB doing in your garden?


@Srgb The drain to no waist solution you suggest looks a lot like the reservoir hempy I ran. I believe using a fabric pot and an upside down net pot in the bottom would add a lot of air and then you could raise the level in the rez giving you a couple of extra days. Just an idea. Saw something like that when I youtubed Bernard Kratky.


Clever guy that Kratky fella.

Indeed. This thread was our first occasion to come into contact with his work.

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Interesting comparison. We would probably describe the Drain-To-Waste method`s distinctions from a Bato bucket type method as

1. Primarily focused on recovery and reuse of the applied nutrient solution, as opposed to draining of the solution out of the bucket at the set level (1-2 inches/2.5-5cm).
2. Thorough and complete drainage of the nutrient solution out of the primary container, in the instance of the Drain-To-Waste method, ideally using SRBGB`s as the interior container.
3. Ability to observe the actual level of the recoverable and reusable applied nutrient solution (run-off). The run-off is held in the external basin, trough or reservoir - not inside of a rigid walled container, below the set level (holes(s)) drilled into the interior bucket. The garderner is able to visually observe the level of available nutrient solution when employing the Drain-To-No-Waste method, the gardener is not generally able to view the nutrient solution within a Bato type bucket, beneath the drainage hole(s) of the bucket.
4. No buckets used. SRBGB`s provide, generally, a greater ability to permit oxygen (air flow) into and through the media held inside of the Square Root(R) Garden Bag. The walls and bottom of the SRBGB are permeable to environmental air an moisture, whereas rigid walled containers tend to permit less, if any, air flow through the walls and bottom of that type of container.
5. Scalability and adjustability. The soilless gardener is able to emply a variety of methods once roots grow through the SRBGB, including NFT, DWC, SWC, etc., when employing the SRBGB as the interior container. Further, those same systems could be configured to recirculate, if desired, and apply the principles of 1., that is, recovery and reusability of the initially applied nutrient solution.

Yes, an upside down net type container could be used as a `riser`. However, we found that they could bend and collapse vertically if the media and combined weight of the SRBGB and plant or tree therein is heavy enough.

We found large washed stone or large pumice to be adequate for a 1-2 inch (2.5-5cm) riser. How a higher rise, a number of options could be employed, including simply placing a lattice or grading type of material (for example, nursery tray flat) on top of the edges of an external basin or bucket, which would (or, could) increase the available volume of drained nutrients to the volume of the external basin of bucket. In such a configuration, once roots have grown through the SRBGB, they will generaly passively uptake the nutrient solution from the vlower vessel - and simultaneously grow into the solution of the lower vessel.

These are only some cursory observations of the distinctions between the Drain-To-Waste method, as we have developed it, and the Bato bucket type system.

Though, we would also point out that the Drain-To-No-Waste method is an open model that can be adjusted and configured to meet the needs or desires of the particular soilless gardener. The outline permits addition or deletion of components or practices.

The target goals of the method remains,

• primarily, passive recovery and reuse of applied nutrient solution; 100% recovery being optimal;
  
• ability to observe the growth and health of the root system throughout all stages of the season.
  
• scalability and adjustability, within the above 1) and 2) parameters;
  
• utilizing garden air flow through the walls and bottom of the SRBGB as the supplied oxygen to the roots inside and outside of the SRBGB; and
  
• principles and practices which are simple and consistently repeatable; capable of attaining the the same results at each repition (gardening season).

These are just a few points that we might consider to be distinguishing characteristics of the Drain To Waste Method when comparing it to a Bato Bucket type system. We do agree that both methods are based on passive soilless gardening principles, and using a portion of the applied nutrient for an additional water source. However, the Drain To Waste method seeks to utilize 100% of that solution, without any external drainage beyond the external basin - which roots would be in constant contact with.

Thanks for reading the article and feedback. We welcome your comparative analysis and ideas. We hope that the above description helps in defining the distinguishing points of the two methods. Please feel free to post your ideas, contributions and comparisons to other methods or techniques in the thread.

We are only sharing practices and principles that we found to be advantageous and that might be useful to the soilless gardener.

Kind regards,
/SRGB/

bump

Bumbelibumb
Dusted with Blue Mary and Mazar x Bluestreak pollen. A tiny nute burn otherwise no problem so far at all and I seriously doubt there will be any.
Some of the earlier pic will probably go away because of banwith problems so if some one wants to copy and upload em somewhere else it´s totaly ok. I dont have the time (ehh I´m to lazy)







Changed my 55w 6500k to a 3000k. A bit late....

This is probably why the plant is freeking tiny. 55w PLL, not very well adapted light sorce for one plant. I usually vegg in this cab with 2x55w PLL. Under a HPS or MH i guess it would be much bigger.

Put the kratky under 150w HPS (dimmed down to 100w) hopefully that will speed things up a bit.

wow dudin she looks great. I am so gunna try this... so off to make me one right now.

If you do let strips of the fabric go all the way down to the bottom of the rez. Will give you higher rh at the top and better roots ( me guessing).

Well it was to hot with the HPS and maybe a little rough on the plant. The rez got real hot also have some Mg problems (or its about here the Kratky starts to assfuck me). Will change water in the rez today and up the nutes some to 5ml/L Hesi soil blom.
Now I use a 55w 2d 2700k worklight, the reflectors on those are freaking great for a small mom cab by the way.

Hahah tried my 150w HPS in the cab and the bottle felt hot when i touched it. Not a very good sign. Now I use a 55w 2d(butterfly /square, t5ho) worklight.

Started getting some troubble before the HPS and after it seems pretty fucked. Both a burn and some kind of lockout. Hit me with suggestions. Up or down the nutes is whats at hand. Now I´m at 5ml/L Hesi bloom soil.

It´s been dusted a few times......

My Kratky died, left it on the balcony for a few days and it got boiled. The rez got super hot. Dont know if the Kratky methode is a good way of growing. I think you get a nicer and bigger plant in 1 1/2 L soil/hempy. A nice way to start plants but its hard to keep such a tiny rez cold. Well thats all folks.

dudin:

My Kratky died, left it on the balcony for a few days and it got boiled. The rez got super hot. Dont know if the Kratky methode is a good way of growing. I think you get a nicer and bigger plant in 1 1/2 L soil/hempy. A nice way to start plants but its hard to keep such a tiny rez cold. Well thats all folks.


Hi, dudin.

Are you certain the cause of the issues were purely heat related?

Perhaps the water in the external vessel was too deep?

Perhaps there was not enough available oxygen inside of the water-holding vessel?

Again, our initial contact with this particular method was this thread.

We developed our methods independent of any existing concepts, as close as we could get to a vaccumed lab type setting.

What we found is that the shallower the external reservoir, the more manageable it was, for a number of reasons. One being that the nutrients did not remain inside of the external vessel for too long of a period. Two being that roots had oxygen available to the roots through the SRBGB by way of air flow of the garden.

The configuration that you illustrated appeared to form a `seal` at the point where the top portion, or inverted bottle top, met the lower reservoir, effectively limiting the flow of oxygen into the lower reservoir. Additionally, with a `sealed` chamber of water (perhaps including nutrients), the gas exchang process might become limited, as there might be limited channels for gases given off by roots to escape.

These are merely brief observations that might be considered by the soilless gardener.

What we found most effective method for permitting environmental air to act as oxygen for a plant or trees` root zone was to select an external reservoir that was slightly wider than the SRBGB, so that the run-off was exposed to environmental air in the basin. Additionally, we selected low-walled reservoirs so that walls would not impede the ability of air flow to permeate the walls of the SRBGB.

We cannot post to any modifications of the method that you tried, however, the above points, at least when experimenting with SRBGB`s tended to provide pathways for oxygen to reach roots.

Have you placed the SRBGB outdoor, in a shallow basin, in higher temperatures? If so, how did it perform?

We experimented with a variety of different cultivars outdoor with SRBGB`s using the Drain To No Waste Method, with a fair amount of success under outdoor weather. A couple of these experiments are depicted in our SRBGB Rose and SRBGB Bamboo threads.

Kind regards,
/SRGB/

SRGB said:

dudin:

My Kratky died, left it on the balcony for a few days and it got boiled. The rez got super hot. Dont know if the Kratky methode is a good way of growing. I think you get a nicer and bigger plant in 1 1/2 L soil/hempy. A nice way to start plants but its hard to keep such a tiny rez cold. Well thats all folks.


Hi, dudin.

Are you certain the cause of the issues were purely heat related?

Perhaps the water in the external vessel was too deep?

Perhaps there was not enough available oxygen inside of the water-holding vessel?

Again, our initial contact with this particular method was this thread.

We developed our methods independent of any existing concepts, as close as we could get to a vaccumed lab type setting.

What we found is that the shallower the external reservoir, the more manageable it was, for a number of reasons. One being that the nutrients did not remain inside of the external vessel for too long of a period. Two being that roots had oxygen available to the roots through the SRBGB by way of air flow of the garden.

The configuration that you illustrated appeared to form a `seal` at the point where the top portion, or inverted bottle top, met the lower reservoir, effectively limiting the flow of oxygen into the lower reservoir. Additionally, with a `sealed` chamber of water (perhaps including nutrients), the gas exchang process might become limited, as there might be limited channels for gases given off by roots to escape.

These are merely brief observations that might be considered by the soilless gardener.

What we found most effective method for permitting environmental air to act as oxygen for a plant or trees` root zone was to select an external reservoir that was slightly wider than the SRBGB, so that the run-off was exposed to environmental air in the basin. Additionally, we selected low-walled reservoirs so that walls would not impede the ability of air flow to permeate the walls of the SRBGB.

We cannot post to any modifications of the method that you tried, however, the above points, at least when experimenting with SRBGB`s tended to provide pathways for oxygen to reach roots.

Have you placed the SRBGB outdoor, in a shallow basin, in higher temperatures? If so, how did it perform?

We experimented with a variety of different cultivars outdoor with SRBGB`s using the Drain To No Waste Method, with a fair amount of success under outdoor weather. A couple of these experiments are depicted in our SRBGB Rose and SRBGB Bamboo threads.

Kind regards,
/SRGB/

Click to expand...

What is SRBGB exactly?

I would also be curious to hear and find out WHY this plant died and i really doubt its heat related. At least not to the roots.

Caravaggio:
What is SRBGB exactly?

I would also be curious to hear and find out WHY this plant died and i really doubt its heat related. At least not to the roots.

Hi, Caravaggio.

Square Root Brand Garden Bag.

dudin:

My Kratky died, left it on the balcony for a few days and it got boiled. The rez got super hot.

At least that was the initial observational post by the gardener. Heat might have reduced available oxygen in the holding vessel, coupled with lack of gas exchange ability in the root zone; as the top portion of the unit was sealed onto the bottom water-holding portion of the unit. Similar to boiling water releasing oxygen as bubbles; heat, generally, might tend to reduce available oxygen in a liquid solution. Just an observation, not conclusive.

Best,
/SRGB/

So let's keep this thread going to see if anyone actually is able to pull this off

A serious nuteburn (miscalculated) and a rez temp +40c. Felt hot in my hand, like 30min old cup of coffe. That's my best guess. Don't think it was lack of oxygen since the roots only were submerged 1/3 when it "boiled".
Still think the idea might work but a 1 1/2L hempy would produce a much bigger plant.
But hey try it and make it work, I've tried it enough. Now use it for parsley.

dudin said:

A serious nuteburn (miscalculated) and a rez temp +40c. Felt hot in my hand, like 30min old cup of coffe. That's my best guess. Don't think it was lack of oxygen since the roots only were submerged 1/3 when it "boiled".
Still think the idea might work but a 1 1/2L hempy would produce a much bigger plant.
But hey try it and make it work, I've tried it enough. Now use it for parsley.

Click to expand...

I would agree with you....


the idea is that some roots are in air....other roots in water...

oxygen comes from the air roots.... water from .....


well duh.... the water roots....

I expect the plant simply was .....too hot....