Calcium Def

Well is it?
32 Days flowering (outta about 60 total days)






Growlog here, its a DWC
http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=34456
I don't see any insects, and there are none stuck to my yellow sticky traps. Someone else suggested Mg def, or insects, but i dont really see it.

What do you all think?

Looks like PH spotting to me...what's the PH, PPM, nutes & water source?

I can see what appears to be "hooking" in a few of the leaves. This is where the leaf appears to grow more on one side more than the other and so it bends instead of being straight. This could be a sign of calcium deficiency. (zinc deficiency in some plants will do this also) I put arrows on the leaves that appear to me to be this way. Click on it to enlarge.


You need to provide more information like Mtf Sandman states.

from link,

The last two feedings

Reservoir Change time
Day 23 Flowering
--------------
Pre Change
556ppm 5.4pH
--------------
3.25g H2O 0ppm; ph5.88
30ml Hydroguard
20ml Cal-Mag plus
40ml Sweet
ppm 620
20ml Liquid Karma
25ml PBP Bloom

Final1038ppm;5.79ph

--&--
Flowering Day 32, reservoir change

I think i have a slight Ca deficiency, so i am switching back to my tap water.

The water sat for 36 hours; pH 7.98 ppm 176


40 sweet
15 silica
15 plex
35LK
45 Sensi Zym
35 Hydroguard
10 Calmag
15Ambrosia
15 Nectar
3pH down

989ppm
pH 5.8

Not in that order, i had it all typed out, and lost it.

ShroomDr said:

Pre Change
556ppm 5.4pH

Click to expand...

This is what you discovered in your rez before switching out for a fresh batch? Ph is low. If I thought I were experiencing cal def, I would grow at a higher ph like 6.

Mtf Sandman may have been right on his first guess.

Imo its doing the same thing it did before when you were having wide ph fluctuations. Get the ph dialed into a smaller range and it should perk back up.

tap water wont necessarily help.. it could have too much, and lock it out, or be too hard an unable to maintain ph, and lock it out. are you using 10mg of cal-mag per gallon? also, if your nutes may be too high, nitrogen can lockout calcium, i had that problem few weeks ago

good luck

OK, you are all really confusing me. There is no way that Nitrogen is too high, and locking out the calcium. I'm a month deep into flowering. Its not like I'm feeding them a high N ppm.
Secondly, Ive read that Tap water will be a lot better for pH fluctuations than RO or Distilled because of its ability to buffer the pH better. if the water is 0ppm, it ability to buffer is greatly diminished.
Also, as stated, i start with 3-3.5 gallons of H2O then add the 10ml of Cal-mag, not 10 per gallon. All values next to the the additives names are based on 3-3.5G H2O

The pH is checked daily and never strays to far from 5.7 5.8. When it was 5.4, it was only that low for 15-18 hours, I probably added a little too much pH down on my last top off, but i wasn't to worried, since i was going to dump it all the next day anyway.

Is a floating pH (within the 5.5-6.2 range) really that bad for the plant? I could attempt to keep it more stable, but it hardly ever leaves the 5.7-6.1 range anyway.
I though i read that floating the pH was semi-beneficial, since Cal is best absorbed below 5.7 and Mg is best absorbed above 5.7. Not a big float, but a little.

I also did not have this problem on my last grow, and i definitely did not monitor the ppm's and pH nearly as well as i am now. I went days without checking or topping off, and never had this spotting, i don't see this grow as more chaotic.

Thanks for the help all, especially you first three, you continue to help me, teach me, and i will smoke some in your honor.

If i can add anything that might help with the diagnosis, please ask.


i don't know if i can monitor the pH any better than i am now. I think the regular water should help (i think i read about the poor buffering qualities of RO water in 'Big Tokes Bio Buckets' thread), but the only other thing i can think of is a Tri-meter. I don't exactly have enough room for a pH controller in my cabinet. If i could constantly glance at the Tri-meter, I could make minute changes, but i will eventually need to get a larger Reservoir

I think the larger res would probably be the quickest method to help stabilize your nutes/PH. I'm really leaning towards PH problems causing uptake issues personally...

Those tiny yellow spots looks like spider mite damage to me, or perhaps thrips. Have you checked what goes on under the leaves?



spider mite damage to my plants. Looks familiar?

You need a close inspection of the leaf undersides. Good point Rosy!

Just for interest, I got these numbers for your fertilizer combination. It appears more suited for vegetative growth rather than flowering. This is because the cal mag plus adds nitrogen. Not bad in that it is nitrate nitrogen so this avoids ammonia toxicity and calcium "lockout". But you dont really want nitrogen boosts in flowering. Target levels (in parts per million) for flowering are 100-100-200-60 nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and magnesium. This is from Mel Frank's insiders guide. So if you look at your pbp bloom, you need to add more phosphorus and magnesium only and no nitrogen. Calcium should be increased along with the mag because potassium, cal, and mag compete with each other. There is a nutrient calculator http://www.angelfire.com/cantina/fourtwenty/articles/profiles.htm in this thread you can experiment with to try to come up with a nutrient solution that closer matches those target levels. FYI, 1/4 teaspoon epsom salts in 1 gallon of water = 30 ppm mag and 1/4 teaspoon powdered gypsum in a gallon of water = 70 ppm calcium. Neither of these adds nitrogen and not double micros like the "plus" would. Maybe add pk 13/14 + epsom + gypsum instead of cal mag plus? You could use kh2p04 monopotassium phosphate for the pk 13/14 if you did not want "store bought". We can come up with a teaspoon per gallon rate for this is well. Try to obtain between 8:4:1 to 4:2:1 ratio of potassium to calcium to magnesium. Experiment with the numbers and report what you come up with.

Numbers below are starting at the top: nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, and lastly magnesium. It is in parts per million (ppm)

Here is PureBlendPro Bloom @ 15ml/gal
129
45
214
26

and PBPBloom 15, plus 5 cal mag (GrowGreen's formula) it resembles the grow formula of FloraNova @8ml, as well as GH's 15Grow, 10Micro, 5 bloom formulations, the most copied recipe Ive found. It seems competition only copied GH's veg formula for the most part..

161
45
214
45

Click to expand...

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=21119

Thank you both again

It looks like i have either spider mite eggs, or cloudy pre-trichomes (w/o a stalk, but cloudy) on the undersides of the leaves.
I cant see any living adults.
I have a radioshack 60X-100X btw

This image is what i am referencing, These eggs look multi colored, all of mine are uniform. This and the fact that i see no living adults, cast doubts in my mind, My damage is worse than this

But i cannot see living adults like this.


Would an under leaf shot help?
I can get a few as good as the last two images, but definitely not the first

I have a relatively strong fan blowing on her, I added it 2 weeks ago (roughly), is it possible that i am blowing the adults off after they hatch; probably wishful thinking.

I just think that i would see adults, if this is spidermite damage, because the spotting is all over the leaves.

I am pretty sure these are mites. I put arrows on what appears to be adults. Great photography.
Click on it to enlarge.

you can see the mite on the first pic....no pest strip=no more in 24 hours

yes they are mites i hate those little fuckers

sproutco said:

I am pretty sure these are mites. I put arrows on what appears to be adults. Great photography.
Click on it to enlarge.

Click to expand...

I edited the picture post before and added sketches. Looks like mites for sure.

no. I cant see mites on my plant.

I can see them plain as day in those pics, that's why i was confused

Here,









my current ph is 5.97
ppm 1071

5 Days ago it was
989ppm
pH 5.8

that cant be too much of a swing can it?

The damage seems to be moving up the plant also, It is starting to effect the leaves coming directly out of the buds.


*adds another thought* about 3-4 weeks ago i topped off with my dehumidifier water (10ppm) if the 10 was aluminum or copper, that could be toxic I did this for maybe a week.

*and another* when i see my 'cloudy balls' they are more spread out than those, and im pretty sure im using a higher magnification than that first picture from my previous post. The 'balls' are only 2-3x larger than the white 'hairs' on the underside.

Thanks for all the help, im adding to all your reps.

im using no pest strips also, but ill add them to the bottom of the canopy now.

I don't like no pest strips. Not a good thought smoking nerve poisons. I suggest trying to suffocate them. Safer's soap works good for this. Apply about 2 ounces (60ml) 50% concentrate per gallon (3.8L) of water or follow the directions on the bottle first. First defense against mites is always water. If possible, take the plants into the shower and rinse both sides of the leaves before applying an insectide/miticide. Two applications spaced 1 week apart may be nessecary with the safer soap. The chemical avid I heard works great for mites although I recently saw a thread about the ingredients growing in your lungs. Is this true? Maybe I am just high.

no pest strips.....you have no mites then that is not your problem