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Freedom Buckets Information here

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
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Veteran
Hey all I was going through my backup discs and found a whopper information on freedom buckets all overgrow threads saved in PDF format so if enough of you need them please post here as I will post them; the threads were made by krusty,noone SYK and others.........

I found out my computer the other computer I had my stuff on had been destroyed the pigs destroyed my computer without a court order!

So I was going through my backups which the FUC|>ers did not get because they were hidden in a wall.

So enough babble; anything on Freedom bucket construction to information I got it! Pics information construction.

I will say this; I do not know much about the system all from what I read: I have not built this system as I never got the chance to do so because I got busted.

One day I will get this setup going though :)
 
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HAPPYTREE

Member
anything on Freedom bucket construction to information I got it! Pics information construction.

Stitch this will be a cool contribution to the forum. ive heard about these buckets (and the drama) but never really saw a great example of them going off.
right on
HT
 

MynameStitch

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Bucket Construction

Bucket Construction

This was posted by no-one

the top bucket!! ( Picture I do not have; but shows a 5 gallon bucket.)
pic 1, start with a 5gallon bucket, or 20litrebucket for meteric countrys!

pic 2, 3/8th holes drilled everyware in thebottom of the bucket



pic 3, more 3/8th holes drilled up the side ofbucket, up about 6" from the bottom of thebucket should be enough!




step 4, the two feed lines! im my case theseare 5mm pvc hose with no drippers just openhose controled flow by in inline tap in the
main feedline off the pump (i used a ringaround the plant stalk in my previous grow and found in created too many problems)the feedlines r held in place by drilling slightly smaller holes in the side of the top of the bucket! then u just push the two feedlines thru these holes and because its a tight fit
they wont move! u can pull them in and out to suite ur needs!



pic#5 the bucket spacer ok here's the spacer that goes between the
two buckets! i use a peace of pvc sewer pipe about 6" long with holes drilled everware, krusty uses a 1 gal net pot upside down for
this spacer!
as u can see the soaker hose is threaded
around the bottom of the spacer in a loopconected buy a pvc tee peace this then go'es to the main air line!
the airline goes up and out thru the gap between the top and bottom bucket! i wouldnt recomend trying to bring it out the side of the
bottom bucket mostly cause when the roots grow into the aero chamber they grab hold of the spacer! if for some reson u have to lift the
top bucket out, the spacer and roots normaly comes with it! if the airline was routed thruside of the bottom bucket the spacer would
not be able to lift out of the bottom bucket!
the results would be ripping most of the roots off the plant! bad
the air pump runs 24/7 createing an aero chamber in the bottom bucket! for airpump recomendations i think spooky has a good thread on the subject also i had a thread called"air pump for a krusty bucket" i think spookys was " everything i learned about airpumps at school" pic




#6 also is a pic of a soaker hose kit avalible in australia from bunning's wharehouse's! its
got 5m of 5mm soakerhose plus some fitting like tee'ss and stuff, it costs sbout 23$aud 1/4" soaker hose is not avalible in australia as
far as i could tell and i looked everyware! i found heaps of 1/2" but no 1/4"
oh i just remembered try not to use the smooth flexable air stone you get at the aquarium shop! i used these and they tend to block up!





pic#7,8,9,10
i also added some pics of what you dont want
to see! the roots on this plant started to die
off a bit and after a little investigation i found
the root system had grabed the airline and
creased it blocking the air too the roots! this
is bad, bad, bad! so use a fairly tough air line
to avoid this problem









 
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mysticls

Member
thanks for taking the time to post all the info...look forward to everything getting posted

hopefully you got the pics :D
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
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Yup Got pics too; getting ready to upload those now :)

Edit: Pics up for the first post now
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
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Bottom Bucket

Bottom Bucket

Post Continued by No-one

the bottom bucket the most simple part of the setup
pic 1 (Step 10) the bucket again same as the first bucket



pic 2 the drain hole! it in my case is a 19mm hole about 2" up from the bottom of the bucket to the center of the hole, i have a rubber gromet in the hole for a water proof fit



pic 3 the 19mm pvc fitting conected to the drain line back to the res
you could use any size drain you want but make sure you have no more than 2" of water in the bottom bucket and no less than 1.5" at any time
oh yeah also it would be a good idea to use black bottom buckets if they r avaliable or paint the bottom bucket with black vinal spray
to block the light as it will cause alge in the nutriants(credit to acryfor help for the vinalspray idea) another pic to show how the 3 peices sit together
well thats the bacics if i missed something or its not clear enough just say and i will edit the post to suite!!

 
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MynameStitch

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"these pix were originaly posted by krusty" ok here is some of the ideas that krusty had
on lighting, the bulbs are hung vertical with no shades! spaceing is the key to maximum
light per plant as you can see in the room layout how each plant is sorounded with
bulbs! each of the 1000 watters in the middle actualy shine on 4 plants! so off 1 1000
watter you get 4 times the amount useable light vs 1 light over the top of 1 plant! also by being vertical and inbetween the plants the whole side of the plant is saturated by light not just the tips!






 
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MynameStitch

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Relivant Info: Post Continued by No-One Last one For Freedom Bucket Construction

Relivant Info: Post Continued by No-One Last one For Freedom Bucket Construction

relivent info
water pump, i have been useing a rio powerhead out of a fishtank it flows
1700lpm and has ample power for the 4 buckets i have! i had to install an inline
tap to slow it down so i think i could run maybe as many as 8 buckets off this
pump! this pump can be used in the res or out if heat buildup is an issue!
air pump, the air pump i currently use is a aqua map 90, [email protected] psi this
pump has heaps of volume but i think it lacks pressure when useing soakerhose?
with airstones its fine but with soakerhose i think you need more pressuer to get
the air out of the tube! so if your looking at pumps i would recomend a high
volume, high pressure pump!
res, i use a sunken res to aid in hight restrictions and for cooling perposes! mine
is a 15gal but bigger is better! use the largest res you can fit! krusty recomends
useing a large passive res with a float valve to keep the active res at the desired
level and ppm! i used one in my last system and found i could not have to touch
the res for a week at a time! res temp should be kept in the 68/72 range use a
chiller if necercery! oh krusty recomends at lights off it is better to raise the res
temps to 72/74
if you cant sink the res you will have to rase the buckets! cealing height can
affect this! you will have to find a low res like say 6"high and raise your buckets
7" you need a fall in the drain or the water will back up in the bottom of the
bucket and change the water level! so a wide long flat res is for you! but if you
have a tall room you can ajust the res height to suit!
the water level in the buckest should be controled by the drain hole position! if it
is in the right place and you still have too much water in the bottom bucket you
either have to restrictive drain lines or are pumping too much water into the top
bucket
flushing, minimum once per week is recomended! dump active res and refill with
plain water run for a while and dump! reapeat till the water runs clear, then run
for 24hours on the clean plain water! dump the next day refill with nutes and
water, this could be done as often as every 5 days!
humidity, krusty recomends 70% while othewr growers like 50/60% i guess this
depends on your situation? but you dont want to get a swing in humidity that is
more than 10% between day and night!
temp, i like to keep my room between 78 and 80 if you r useing co2 you could
go as high as 90/95
co2, highly recomended for this system, this system uses extream amounts of
light so the higher the co2 level of course the more the plants can use this light,
up to 1800ppm is recomended anymore is a waste!
medium is lava rock 20mm, in australia it is advailable from bunnings
warehouse's under the name of "scoria" in my last grow i used hydroton but
acording to krusty this product is inferior plus the scoria is 8$ aud for a 20l bage
and the hydroton is 44$ aud for the same size bag! their is nothing else in the
top bucket but medium! the bucket should be filled to within 1" of the top!
for the clones dont use rockwool starter cubes as they keep the stem too wet
and will cause problems later on, use perlite as u can wash off most of it before
the transplant or you can transplant directly from 10k's cheapo areo cloner into
the lava rock!
the nutriants i perfer to use are general hydroponics 3 part flora series, mixed at
5ml/gal= 1 part in the 1,2,3 formula, i have found if your tap water is resonable
their is no need for ph up or down ! but im sure some people's tap water isnt as
good as mine so try to keep ph in the 5.8/6.3 range! feeding is 24/7
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
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Freedom Manual Post by Krusty

Freedom Manual Post by Krusty

and here is the freedom manual....
Freedom Growers Guide
Intro
The following document has been made to help the average grower with
there home garden even thou most of the information could be used to help
out larger scale growers as well. Information here has been cross-referenced
but for the most part is simply the opinion of one person. Hopefully with

discussion this document will develop with the input of other peoples
experiences, I think this is important since I truly feel as thou we are the
pioneers of the industry. Past growers have developed many techniques over
the years and I respect their hard work they have done to bring the platform
that we now have, but we have to move forward and sometimes to do this
change is needed. With change some past ideas will be left behind and this
is where it becomes tricky. Many of the ideas of yesterday are continued
today simply because their products/systems are being sold not with the
interest of the grower but for revenue of their out dated ideas. If this was
just a matter of choice then I would not personally feel so compelled to
point out the flaws in systems but this industry we are in at this point is
not accepted by the governments of most nations. When something is of this
nature then companies should hold more honors of their products and worry
less about revenue. I am sorry to say but this has not happened my personal

krusty bucket system ask your questions here and i will try and answer them. - Edge Forums

theory on this is most of these products create jobs for legit people who
have families of there own to support thus giving them drive to push
products because there purpose is not to help others but to survive. In the
legit world this type of business ethics are fine but in the industry at
hand there is no room for self-gain we must all work as one force until the
industry is accepted. Once the industry is accepted then we can open up
various methods to offer the rest of society and at this point "buyer
beware" type of ethics can be utilized. Until then we must put revenue
aside and worry more about ones freedom.

Attitude
This is something I find important and I will not go into great depths
because it should be easy to understand. Showing respect to the people
around you is the only way that you will also be treated with respect. Your
neighbors are very important prior to being busted; I find a humble
respectful attitude towards most neighbors will lower chances of them
feeling the need to inform anyone of your activities. For the larger scale
growers humble lifestyle is also important, cars, toys, activities that seem
out of place will raise questions and so do your work, save your earnings
and use your nest egg towards a legit business, education or lifestyle away
form the growing location. This concept will allow others to follow your
path and continue where you left off. This is just my opinion that using
growing as a stepping-stone instead of a career is best for everyone and
makes the governments job of enforcing laws on growers much harder, I call
this the "rotation effect". Which brings us towards how ones attitude should
be in the court systems, I have found that if you show respect with how you
present yourself in court this will help with your charges. All to often I
find people trying to defend themselves or speak when they are not required.
Spending the funds to have a respectful lawyer representing you will show
you are taking the court seriously and that you respect what they are doing.
Of course there is obvious things like how you cloth yourself, hygiene and
gestures during proceedings that hopefully are common sense but I find the
most important thing is to find your own representation if at all possible.
On a finally note I find "Generalizing" to be the worst thing one can do
when it comes to police officers, yes there is bad apples as in all lines of
work but I find most police officers are doing there job and/or what they
feel is right. By disrespecting police officers you will not gain anything
and it is not making it easier on the rest of your peers. Show the police
officer respect and exercise your right to say nothing, wait to speak to you
r lawyer because anything you say will come back to haunt you.
Lets get down to business....

Stress
When I first started this document it was going to be step-by-step type of
format, but I must open up more and talk about the important degrees of
growing in various methods due to people's own environments and/or
limitations.
When a plant stresses it is a electrical/chemical dysfunction in the system
as in all things, which will cause ethylene to start at the cellular level
of the plant. Other then the stress from aging most stress causes can be
corrected by the grower. I find that in most cases it is the style/system
that causes stress and with that said here are the degrees of stress that we
can focus on.

1. Root Structure. Without proper root structure the plant cannot absorb
water/nutrients properly and even thou roots have the ability to rebuild
themselves unless there conditions are allowing them to work properly
repairing will either never happen or too much energy will be taken up for
repairs and this will effect the rest of the plant, which will effect the

krusty bucket system ask your questions here and i will try and answer them. - Edge Forums
final product.

2. Improper Lighting. This has many degrees, first off not enough light,
this can be from the light being too far away or the light simply doesn't
have enough lumens. Light cycles are also a problem.

3. Environmental. Temperatures, humidity, CO2 are the basics.

4. Disease and Predators. I find that under a stress-free environment plants
own built in immune system and growth structure will overcome any disease I
have had the unfortunate experience of dealing with and that once the plant
has established itself it will out grow any predator. I find predators to
only be a problem in the beginning, clones need to be clean, but once the
plant is growing 3 inches per day predators cannot keep up to the growth of
the plant under a stress-free environment.

5. Nutrients. This is a little trickier because there is so many products
out there and most of them do not work well with each other. Also it is how
the nutrients are given to the plants, pH levels, PPM levels, toxins and
temperature of the nutrients all need to be kept within boundaries.
There are other factors but I will try to stick to the ones I know enough
about to add to peoples current and/or future endeavors. One must realize
that all these degrees of stress work with, against each other and the true
art of growing is trying to balance everything and sometimes this means
setting precedence with one over the other.

Now I will go into more depth of each of the stress degrees, but remember
one person makes this document and it is my experience that determines the
boundaries I set for my techniques of growing. I have in the past read thru
books and articles and I admit there was correct information but I found a
lot of it to be misleading and incorrect, or at the very least incorrectly
given. For example most books, articles I have read try to show people how
to fix problems after they have happened, this is there biggest flaw. It is
more important to teach people how to grow properly with a stress-free
environment then to suggest products and/or techniques to aid the stressful
situation. I find most products to be less then honorable and most
techniques to be less then intelligent. Common sense is by far the most
important thing to remember once you have a problem existing in your system.

1) typical size room is 3m X 7.5m (approx 1.5m x 1.5m per plant - see diagram)
2)4 1000watt MH and 10 600watt HPS (see lighting diagram)
3)70% humidity - with only 5 variation - day and night (humidifiers and dehumidifers connected to humidistat
4)room temp lights on 29 degress and never more 10% drop with lights off time (24000btu A/C)
5)resi temp 22 degress with lights on and 24 degress lights off (water chiller connected to res)
6)co2 1500pmm - controlled with greenair infrared controller
7)room painted in ultra flat white, with mould retart in it.
8)lights hung vertical with no shades (see diagram)
9)use large lava rocks not clay balls in top bucket
10)gen hydro products only as per directions on bottle. (no other brands peroid)
11)drip irregation system on for 24/7
12)two drippers per plant, once root ball directly under main stem in amassed, only feed bottom half of roots in top bucket. Top half to be kept completely dry
13)large electric "air compressor" connected to "soaker hose" in bottom of bottom bucket - should be like a froth forming in bucket - so many bubbles.
14)change nutrient weekly - 5 days of nutrient and 2 days of plain water, each week.
15)turn plants onto 12/12 when approx at nipple height (including bucket)
 
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MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
Information posted by Imagine and Sun TZu

Information posted by Imagine and Sun TZu

If anyone needs more information Please let me know because I have PDF files of entire threads of Freedom Buckets including ones on Overgrow.

It is two 5 gallon cylindrical buckets. One 5 gallon bucket has many 3/8" holes drilled into it on the bottom, and approximately 4-6" up the sides as well, but the top of the bucket down to the middle of the bucket remains intact.

The second bucket has only a 3/4" fitting in it for a drain line and it is set up such that it retains 2" of nutrients in the bottom. A spacer is used to keep the two buckets apart from each other. The spacer is either a 1 gallon net pot or a 4-6" PVC pipe with holes drilled into it. The pipe is 6" long. So, the top bucket is held 6" from the bottom of the bottom bucket to create an air space for roots to grow in.

The nutrients in the bottom are aerated by means of a garden soaker hose. I believe that the hose is 1/2" thick. If you've ever seen one, these are usually black, highly porous, made of tough rubber type compound. A length of this, I believe about a foot, sits at the bottom of the bottom bucket and is held down by either the net pot or section of pvc pipe. A high pressure pump is needed to supply air to this. You need greater than 10psi, and a decent flow rate. It is very important to have high enough pressure supplied to this, otherwise it simply does not produce enough bubbles. Apparently, the soaker hose that has high pressure air in it creates a froth of bubbles.

The top bucket is filled with volcanic rocks. Not rockwool cubes, not clay pellets, but, the red, brownish variety of lava. It is extremely porous and sharp around the edges. This seems to be very important because the mass of this growing medium, along with its resistance to lateral sheer seems to provide a most excellent support for the plant so that the plant can grow up to 6' tall, and you don't need to tie it down.

Well, the yields look good, and in theory it seems good because it provides massive amounts of air to the roots and provides very good support for the plant. It seems like this plant indoors looks more like an outdoor plant.

The feeding seems to be done at the side of the volcanic rocks 24/7, and the air via soaker hose goes 24/7 as well.


Anyways, it basically consists of a fusion of NFT with SWC. You have a bucket within a

bucket. Large 25lt buckets are used, and the inner bucket must have lots of small holes in

the bottom and lowest 5" of the sides to allow roots to grow through, whilst containing the

grow medium (clay pebbles or lava rock) that it is filled will.

The inner bucket sits on a 1 gallon pot, upside down, that has holes threaded with air-line

soaker hose. There is a drain hole in the side of the outer bucket 2-3 inches above the

bottom, which leads to a drain line running back to a reservoir.

Nutrient comes via 2 feed lines into the top (inner - with the grow medium) bucket,

constantly dripping through the medium, through the holes, collecting in the bottom 2-3" of

the outer bucket. here it is pumped with masses of air to create a froth of bubbles, all

bursting in the confines of the gap between buckets, coating the roots growing down with an

NFT-type film, and also supplying lots of oxygen. Krusty also believes that the agitation

of the roots plays a part in the huge yields he gets from each plant.

Another important factor is the lighting. K recommends 1 kw per plant, although I'm running

600w per plant. Bulbs hang vertically, amongst the plants, without reflectors. The

advantages are many: the lack of a reflector means that the bulb is surrounded by plant

matter in all the directions in which lumens output is highest. Also, unlike horizontal

reflectors, the heat from the bulb is allowed to radiate straight upwards, the only

direction in which there are no plants. Also, because of the interaction of the lights

coverage areas, the lumens get ramped up out of all proportion to the wattage. A definite

controbutary factor in obtaining buds as big as your best mate. The walls of the grow

should be covered in Mylar to reflect as much light as possible.
 
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mysticls

Member
what strains did everyone grow? i know krusty loved bcbb and said he looked for plants that grew like xmas trees and the nodes werent close
 

mysticls

Member
yea ive heard of people growing that but both hash plant and bc big bud are sub par in terms of everything but quantity and even hash plant lacks that...although ive heard of a BC hash plant that is killer
 

MynameStitch

Dr. Doolittle
Mentor
Veteran
the rest of the info I have is in PDF format and it has lots of questions and answers so it would be kinda hard to post the restl; I just posted the most important part; if you want pdf I would be glad to send you them; they are around 20 mb for the entire group
 

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