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EM1 - effective microbial....anyone use it?

alaikiek

New member
I was give a bottle of EM1 microbial innoculant: http://www.emamerica.com/ and have used it for the last year on my vegitable garden with amazing and impressive results. Bigger, greener plants, more flowers and buds, bigger fruits and vegis. I also spray it on my chicken coop once a month and it completely controls the odors from thier droppings. I sprayed it on my yard waste compost pile and in 2-3 months it broke it down in half making some beautiful compost.
At first I was a little skeptical when I was given the bottle, but after using it for the last year I am pretty impressed.
Has anyone out there used EM1 or any other microbial innoculant in their organic soil mix? I don't think it would be benificial as an immediate fertalizer, but I think it would help when you premix your soil a month before using it for planting.

Peace,
Ala
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
em is an awesome product if you dont mind paying the price, it is a bit pricey for most. but since you got it for free thats great! like you said its not really a fertilizer but will make your soil more healthy, more resistant to disease and pest, as well as much more. its best used in very dilute applications.
 

jaykush

dirty black hands
ICMag Donor
Veteran
pretty sure its made from a mother culture that the product maker has in japan, not 100%. i know one person at another forum is trying to make a diy EM but not done yet.

lucky thaiphoon gets it dirt cheap, something like 5$ a bottle.

it has lacto bacillus in it, and we already know how to make that.
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Fuck I knew I was supposed to do something this weekend, I forgot to make LB.

:spank: :spank: :spank:

Looks like we are having rice tonite :)
 

MrFista

Active member
Veteran
EM - The main principle is that a bunch of symbiotic microbes have a far better chance of establishing than isolated cultures. Since proven to be correct.

Here's some laymans information. Dr Higa wished the technology to be available, you can make your own, the info is out there, but it requires some dedication.

EM
 

MrFista

Active member
Veteran
This is far more revealing - we could work this one out to the point we had the major groups for sure.

EM stuff

The bit talking about the basis being only the three families...

lactic-acid bacteria
yeasts
phototrophic (aka photosynthetic) bacteria

That aint hard! If we get this part.

Then there are the actinomycetes and mold fungi I think.

Lactic Acid Bacteria - Rice/milk, thanks to J we got that covered. Sourkraut (spelling) brew will contain lactic acid bacteria. There are also indian milk lollies that contain them, yoghurts and health milk drinks. Even probiotic ice cream in the uk now!... :rasta:

Yeasts - which ones, from where, more than likely bakers and brewers yeasts.

Phototropic bacteria - easy for me I've got blue green algae duckweed and azolla growing. This doesn't proliferate till it is exposed to light/food, so it is in smaller concentrations in the em. I get the low tide smell where the above plants grow just like the link says of the bacteria. Many waterbodies have prolific blue green algae blooms in summer causing various problems. Be interesting if some bright spark were to learn to harvest this as biomass for fuel :). It's normally blooming from digesting pollution/toxins, this is the role of phototropic bacteria in EM.

Learn more from the link than my stoned rambles. :nono:
 
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C

CT Guy

Talk to Microbeman, he's done a bunch of research on it and even takes some himself as part of his diet...
 

ThaiPhoon

Active member
Hey guys,

jaykush is right, I get EM really cheap here! I've used it to make a few different things. Its very easy to overdo things using the fermented extracts - less is way more. The highest dilution rate I use is 1:500 - I think that's the max. rate recommended anyway.

I am now using garbage enzymes - basically a fermented fruit extract, but it takes 3 months to make. I believe I found all the info in the Enzyme thread. There is an organic farm company here in Thailand that is promoting the use of Garbage Enzymes - for many uses. I suggest a google of the term. I haven't seen any negative effects using them along with the EM.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
When I first started experimenting with and using EM about 8 or 9 years ago (I think) the mother stock included the following microbes;

Lactobacillus plantarum
L. casei
L. fermentum
L. salivarus
L. bulgaricus {delbrueckii}
Saccharomyces cerevisiae
Rhodopseudomonas palustris
Rhodobacter sphaeroides
R. capsulatus

Also it was said to contain strains of actinomycetes but this was not listed for regulatory reasons.

The three last on the list are purple non sulfur bacteria (PNSBs) which are the phototrophic bacteria and the real 'magic' in EM. Unfortunately now there is usually only one strain of PNSB and in the case of the SCD mother culture one must pay more for the inclusion of two strains of PNSB, the so-called super EM.

The only practical way to utilize EM is to ferment and thereby extend the mother stock. It can be multiplied up to 20 times its volume. For horticultural purposes this fermentation should be held at around 100 degrees for up to 7 days and if using for human or animal consumption the period should be 40 to 70 days.

I've found EM a very effective soil rejuvinator. (It also cured my food intolerances; herein lies the affiliation between the gut, probiotics, soil microbial health and the microbial nutrient cycle with plants; ah.. the secret). Vinny's website which Mr Fista posted is a good source of info on fermenting EM.
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
Efficient Microbes Handbook


What is EM?
Effective and Beneficial Microorganisms (EM) are a mixed culture of fermentative, soil-based, beneficial microorganisms which can be applied to many environments to break down organic matter. Some EM applications include:
Sustainable agriculture and gardening
Livestock and pet health
Odor control
Human health
Waste management and recycling
Environmental remediation
Eco-friendly cleaning

When applied in agriculture, EM increases the microbial diversity of soil, thus, enhancing growth, yield, quality, and disease-resistance of crops. EM cultures do not contain any genetically modified microorganisms. EM is made of mixed cultures of microbial species that occur naturally in environments worldwide but which have decreased in many soils due to over-farming, and chemical fertilizer and pesticide use. The principal microorganisms in EM are:

A. Photosynthetic Bacteria The photosynthetic or phototropic bacteria are a group of independent, self supporting microbes. These bacteria synthesize useful substances from secretions of roots, organic matter and/or harmful gases (eg. hydrogen sulphide), by using sunlight and the heat of soil as sources of energy. Useful substances developed by these microbes include amino acids, nucleic acids, bioactive substances and sugars, all of which promote plant growth and development. The metabolites developed by these microorganisms are absorbed directly into plants and act as substrates for increasing beneficial populations.

B. Lactic acid bacteria Lactic acid bacteria produce lactic acid from sugars and other carbohydrates, developed by photosynthetic bacteria and yeast. Therefore, some foods and drinks such as yogurt and pickles have been made with lactic acid bacteria for decades. However, lactic acid is a strong sterilizing compound, and suppresses harmful microorganisms and enhances decomposition of organic matter. Moreover, lactic acid bacteria promote the decomposition of material such as lignin and cellulose and ferments these materials, thereby removing undesirable effects of undecomposed organic matter.

C. Yeast Yeasts synthesize antimicrobial and other useful substances required for plant growth from amino acids and sugars secreted by photosynthetic bacteria, organic matter and plant roots. The bioactive substances such as hormones and enzymes produced by yeasts promote active cell and root division. These secretions are also useful substrates for effective microbes such as lactic acid bacteria and actinomycetes.

Activating EM (AEM)
The primary reason to activate EM is economy, not efficacy. It is perfectly acceptable to use EM without activating it. However, adding a sugar source and culturing the microorganisms ensures that the microbes are active. Once the following procedure has been followed, the end result will be a full strength culture of EM that can then be diluted and applied. Materials: airtight plastic container, or large tank, 1 part EM, 1 part blackstrap molasses, 22 parts water. 3/4 cup EM, 3/4 cup molasses in 1 gallon of water.

Procedure: Dissolve molasses in warm water and add EM. Activating EM is a mostly anaerobic process, thus the presence of excessive oxygen is not desirable. Keep the extension as warm as possible. If you keep the EM between 85-95 degrees it should activate in approximately 4 days. If the extension is kept between 70-80 degrees then allow for 5-7 days. Depending on technique and extension conditions, it may take anywhere from 4-14 days. Check the pH to ascertain when the process is complete; EM is ready when the pH drops to 3.7 or below. Do not use EM that has not dropped below 4.0. If your pH continues to drop to 3.0 or even 2.0 this is normal and indicates high microbial activity. The end product should smell slightly sweet and pickled. Activated EM, unlike EM, is best used within 7 days. It may last up to 1 month but should be used within this time. Do not extend an EM extension - the results cannot be guaranteed.

Soil Uses - Gardening and Landscaping
EM can be used to inoculate plants, water and soil in various ways to achieve beneficial results. It can be sprayed on soil as a pre-planting treatment, used to inoculate seeds or transplants, and applied to growing crops as a foliar spray or through irrigation systems. EM is useful in growing nursery crops, container-grown plants, and even in hydroponics. After crops are harvested, EM is used to help break down crop residues. EM can be applied to cover crops and green manures during growth and upon incorporation into the soil, and is applied to pastures with good results.

General Directions:
For most crop applications, EM or AEM is diluted with water at a ratio of 1 part EM to 1,000 parts water. Do not apply with pesticides or fungicides. It is best to start on a small scale and experiment with EM to determine the best methods and ratios for specific locations.


Storage and Handling
Store EM out of direct sunlight at room temperature. When activating EM, some sunlight is preferable since the bacteria need light to reproduce. Do not refrigerate. Use by the recommended expiration date. If in doubt, check the smell and pH. Good quality EM will have a sweet-and-sour smell and a pH below 3.7. If the pH rises to 3.8, use the remaining EM as soon as possible or within 30 days. Do not use EM if a foul or rotten odor is present.
Keep in mind that you are dealing with living organisms. Best results are realized when EM is supported with good soil management. Avoid bare soil. Feed beneficial and effective microorganisms with crop residues, cover crops, compost and other forms of organic matter.

From the link by Mr.Fista.

:joint:
 

Suby

**AWD** Aficianado
Veteran
I've been perusing the web, it seems like there is alot of info on how to extend it, to use it, applications etc. but never any real detail about what the exact procedure for brewing/mixing/fermenting this stuff.
They also push a ceramic product that aligns water cells and survives firing.
Some of it sounds amazing and some of it goes too way out there.
There's toothpaste, deodorant, etc.
They make/sell worm castings pretty cheap with EM, 40lbs for ~28$ but I didn't check where they ship.

I can see the logic behind mixing different species though.
I'm even interested with the food grade stuff, can the food grade variety be used agriculturally or is that another type of culture mix?
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
but never any real detail about what the exact procedure for brewing/mixing/fermenting this stuff

The instructions for extending/fermenting is all the same thing. You don't need to add the fancy stuff; just 1 part EM: one part black strap molasses; 20 parts warm non-chlorinated water kept at around 100 degrees for 3 to 60 days or more. For ag use 5 to 7 days works well. pH must drop below 3.8.
 

MrFista

Active member
Veteran
My pH test kit will not cover below 5. Any suggestions on a good test kit? Affordable...

I'm way excited this stuff is arriving in the mail soon I've been up half the night reading about the various applications.

I'm very interested in the opinions of members who've used this product what they think of it in comparison to CT. Both are said to combat undesirable biology via exclusion and competition.

Just seems to me the EM is far easier, with no microscopic examination called for to ensure viability of product.

But if I use em exclusively, what am I missing out on?
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I believe Vinny has posted some pH strip resources on his em info site. I use a meter with a probe or a pen meter.

My experience shows EM to be a good soil conditioner; it lays down a microbial base; consumes toxins and breaks down crop resudues preparing a base for natural growing. I found CT to be more involved with the nutrient cycle. There are way more microbes in CT and EM does not support protozoa, an essential in the nutrient exchange. I see them as (69) Yin & Yang.

I use activated em (AEM) at least two weeks prior to planting and often more.

Others use it with CT and instead of CT. Experiment.
 
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