That's a tough one. Lots are going to have the cut off. Your going to have to look around. Look on amazon. I got some heaters from my cousin and was lucky they don't turn off. I believe the brand is called FACTO. I will double check the name and let you know.
Broad Mites?
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oldmanriver1
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Have i joined the brodmite party? I have been battling whitefly or fungs gnats or both for a few weeks until around 2 weeks ago when i seemed to win with diamatoceous earth.
Then i stated noticing weird growth , crinkly leaves and also a few eaten leaves .I have ordered a 80x mag cant realy say for sure with a 10x
Sorry brother. You got bm's. In my honest opinion throw everything out. Clean room. Heat treat room. Bring new plants in. Feed aspirin to your plants and heat treat every 2 weeks to keep any more of them from getting a strangle hold on your crop. Believe me looks like your still in veg. Not worth the fight. Looks like your plants have plenty of damage already.
oldmanriver1
Member
yeah fuk that , im still in veg , i got predators on the way , im not goin down without a fight i am due to put these ladies outdoor i guess i just have to delay that a bit.
Hey man,
You DO NOT need to throw it away. Decide if you want to got miticide or heat. I've done both.
Forbid...works good on adults and juvenile but I did not see the ovicide properties that are claimed by Bayer. Drawback is its a 4-10 day knockdown and that means they still go for 10 days. Forbid is very hard on plants and if you over add or repeat spray too soon and you will regret it. You've been warned.
Pylon TR fogger....worked ok....fogger is not the same formulation as the Pylon SC and does not work as well on BM as the SC. Not an ovicide.
Avid...worked well and is translaminar. Add an ovicide.
Akari...the best choice in my opinion. Has immediate effect in that bugs stop feeding while dieing. Add an ovicide. Dio em as its NOT tanslaminar.
I'm seeing promising results with a product called Nukem that is all natural but to early to recommend.
The heat treatment works as well. Be weary if you are spraying other foliar sprays as buildup on leaf can be an issue with heat, especially oil based products like neem etc. Heat damages thc so regardless of what anyone says, I'm not doing a heat treatment in flower. Proper protocols in veg and it wont be an issue.
Whatever you do, start adding 325 mg aspirin/gal right now. The real battle with these jokers is the toxin they inject while they're sucking. The aspirin will help tremendously with this. With the level of damage in your pic be aware that recovery is very slow and should be judged weekly NOT daily. Its a long road back.
Not that I've battled BM's for awhile or anything.........
Good luck.
Hey man,
You DO NOT need to throw it away. Decide if you want to got miticide or heat. I've done both.
Forbid...works good on adults and juvenile but I did not see the ovicide properties that are claimed by Bayer. Drawback is its a 4-10 day knockdown and that means they still go for 10 days. Forbid is very hard on plants and if you over add or repeat spray too soon and you will regret it. You've been warned.
Pylon TR fogger....worked ok....fogger is not the same formulation as the Pylon SC and does not work as well on BM as the SC. Not an ovicide.
Avid...worked well and is translaminar. Add an ovicide.
Akari...the best choice in my opinion. Has immediate effect in that bugs stop feeding while dieing. Add an ovicide. Dio em as its NOT tanslaminar.
I'm seeing promising results with a product called Nukem that is all natural but to early to recommend.
The heat treatment works as well. Be weary if you are spraying other foliar sprays as buildup on leaf can be an issue with heat, especially oil based products like neem etc. Heat damages thc so regardless of what anyone says, I'm not doing a heat treatment in flower. Proper protocols in veg and it wont be an issue.
Whatever you do, start adding 325 mg aspirin/gal right now. The real battle with these jokers is the toxin they inject while they're sucking. The aspirin will help tremendously with this. With the level of damage in your pic be aware that recovery is very slow and should be judged weekly NOT daily. Its a long road back.
Not that I've battled BM's for awhile or anything.........
Good luck.
What are u liking for a ovacide? Reason I recommended tossing was because how long it takes for plants to recover!! That's if they survive. Could veg new plants in 2-3 weeks and be the same size again. Good luck with the battle. Its a uphill climb!!!
good info/experience LEDNewbie...
i was just hanging out at rosemania getting some indicate 5.. they have a TON of miticides.
Akari 5SC looks very promising as a CONTACT miticide labeled for use against Broad and Cyclamen mites @.24 fluid oz/1gal as a foliar spray.
Ovation SC is not labeled for Broad or Cyclamen mites.
Hexygon DF, another ovacide, is not effective against Broad or Cyclamen mites.
this Rutgers study compared the effectiveness of many miticides on many species including Broads
http://ir4.rutgers.edu/ir4_pdf/defa...ummaryReports/MiteEfficacyDataSummary2012.pdf
so i think i'll be adding Akari to the regimen. Pylon as well as it is labeled for Broad/Cyclamen mites and seems to be nearly as effective as Avid and seems to have a pretty quick knockdown of around 72hours.
and man, is Forbid hard on the plants. it just made the plants so so sad. took about 10 days to recover from it... i wonder if washing it off with another foliar a few hours into the dark period or the next night would help. perhaps just forbid the first spraying and then all my other goodies like monterey and eagle 20 a few hours after. seeing as how its translaminar and rainfast within an hour, it should be fine.
i was just hanging out at rosemania getting some indicate 5.. they have a TON of miticides.
Akari 5SC looks very promising as a CONTACT miticide labeled for use against Broad and Cyclamen mites @.24 fluid oz/1gal as a foliar spray.
Ovation SC is not labeled for Broad or Cyclamen mites.
Hexygon DF, another ovacide, is not effective against Broad or Cyclamen mites.
this Rutgers study compared the effectiveness of many miticides on many species including Broads
http://ir4.rutgers.edu/ir4_pdf/defa...ummaryReports/MiteEfficacyDataSummary2012.pdf
so i think i'll be adding Akari to the regimen. Pylon as well as it is labeled for Broad/Cyclamen mites and seems to be nearly as effective as Avid and seems to have a pretty quick knockdown of around 72hours.
and man, is Forbid hard on the plants. it just made the plants so so sad. took about 10 days to recover from it... i wonder if washing it off with another foliar a few hours into the dark period or the next night would help. perhaps just forbid the first spraying and then all my other goodies like monterey and eagle 20 a few hours after. seeing as how its translaminar and rainfast within an hour, it should be fine.
From Marijuana Botany
An Advanced Study: The Propagation and Breeding of Distinctive Cannabis
by Robert Connell Clarke:
"Many factors influence the production of THC. In general, the older a plant, the greater its potential to produce THC. This is true, however, only if the plant remains healthy and vigorous, THC production requires the proper quantity and quality of light. It seems that none of the biosynthetic processes operate efficiently when low light conditions prevent proper photosynthesis. Research has shown (Valle et al. 1978) that twice as much THC is produced under a 12-hour photoperiod than under a 10-hour photoperiod. Warm temperatures are known to promote metabolic activity and the production of THC. Heat also promotes resin secretion, possibly in response to the threat of floral desiccation by the hot sun, Resin collects in the heads of glandular trichomes and does not directly seal the pores of the calyx to prevent desiccation. Resin heads may serve to break up the rays of the sun so that fewer of them strike the leaf surface and raise the temperature. "
Having used the heat treatment in flower, I haven't noticed any problem. In fact plants (Sativas) were very potent. Since heat treatment should only be for an hour, I don't see the problem. Oxygen & light also "degrade" THC, yet it's strong light that produces potent plants. Some of the highest THC strains grow near the equator, where heat is the greatest.
oldmanriver1
Member
what do you guys think about predator mites? Got some arriving tomorrow hoping that is all i need to do , smash em with predators , put them outside, cross fingers :} i have looked for a lot of the mitcides mentioned , they are hard to get down here in oz , and there are possible problems importing i have heard. How is avid like 110 bucks for a little tiny bottle?
I must reply to this:
Heat damages thc so regardless of what anyone says, I'm not doing a heat treatment in flower. ???
And the plants that are growing outside under the hot sun. The temp. there go up to 130F and more, and not only for an hour.
More sun the better or not?
Is sun and its heat damaging to the plants?
Heat treatment is something totally normal for me, and especially in flower time. I would say that you can hurt small plants in small pots with heat in veg. stage, but I'll try this on some plants to be sure. Personally I made two heat treatments with my last round and I believe it helped a lot. I'm sorry that I didn't make another one three weeks before harvest couse they BM came back.
Big Ciao from Europe.
Heat damages thc so regardless of what anyone says, I'm not doing a heat treatment in flower. ???
And the plants that are growing outside under the hot sun. The temp. there go up to 130F and more, and not only for an hour.
More sun the better or not?
Is sun and its heat damaging to the plants?
Heat treatment is something totally normal for me, and especially in flower time. I would say that you can hurt small plants in small pots with heat in veg. stage, but I'll try this on some plants to be sure. Personally I made two heat treatments with my last round and I believe it helped a lot. I'm sorry that I didn't make another one three weeks before harvest couse they BM came back.
Big Ciao from Europe.
oldmanriver1
Member
Tx for the tip on the asprin Gk , i gave them a hit of it today and i noticed definite improvement only after a few hours .
I really want to keep away from sprays if possible, im due to go outside to flower with big girls , just wondering if the californicus predator mites that r due tomoz might do the trick . Has anyone had a win with these guys ? The min order is 2500 which they say will cover my room size like 200 times .i am hoping i can keep these guys alive a while in their little bucket so i can release periodically even after my big girls are outside and i have heat treated and cleaned my room { i have small plants in with my big ones which im sure have bm too }
A big shoutout to u guys for even making this thread, without it i would still be scratching my head , this site is the nuts
I really want to keep away from sprays if possible, im due to go outside to flower with big girls , just wondering if the californicus predator mites that r due tomoz might do the trick . Has anyone had a win with these guys ? The min order is 2500 which they say will cover my room size like 200 times .i am hoping i can keep these guys alive a while in their little bucket so i can release periodically even after my big girls are outside and i have heat treated and cleaned my room { i have small plants in with my big ones which im sure have bm too }
A big shoutout to u guys for even making this thread, without it i would still be scratching my head , this site is the nuts
That's total BS. For large plants, you need 1000 per plant. Depending on size of room and number of plants, you need at least 50,000 for medium sized room. Whoever told you that is clueless.
Exactly. Heat does not harm plants in any way that I have seen @ those temps for an hour. The highest THC plants in the world grow @ the equator, where temps are 100+ all day long for months.
BMs always come back once they are in your house/environment, as no amount of spraying plants kills BMs in your room. Hence the need for heat treatments through flower.
And to the ghetto troll who keeps neg repping all my posts, I could care less what your small brain thinks. You are only showing what a supreme douchebag you are. I have PMs from people from all over the world thanking me for the heat treatment idea, so that's all that really matters to me. I and many others know it works, so you just stay in that tiny little box you are stuck in, and keep poisoning your peeps.
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oldmanriver1
Member
wow 50k ? i have 6 plants in a 3mx 2m room , 2.5k of predator mites not even close enough?
First off, I'm one of those guys thanking you for the heat treatment idea. Lets not get to sensitive and have discussion, yes?
Regardless of what Robert Connel Clark says, heat can indeed be very damaging in bloom. My experience in N Cal in the last 20 years says something much different....I have grown in 5 different counties and I can positively say that the best medicine by far was/is produced in the micro climates that had October days with highs right around the number most use indoors, 80. In the central valley grows, where temps reached over 100 during similar phase, potency was indeed less. Same strains grown under same protocols tested for potency. Repeated every time for a decade. If its wrong then its wrong but it is from real experience not from a book.
I feel the heat treatment is really good for helping manage a space as much as the plants. I will jack my empty room as high as I can between cycles. I will also use it in veg.
I am seeing tremendous results with a product called Nukem. It is all natural and seems to good to be true. We'll see.
Super heat for empty rooms, heat in veg and Nukem just before bloom. Looks good so far. I'll let ya know.
For knowledge.....
how often is it necessary to run the heat treatment in bloom? If I run it as I enter bloom and have to run it several times in the next 9 weeks then how good is it? I can do better than that with a miticide approved for fruits and vege's used entering bloom. Nukem is food grade product and seems.......like I said, we'll see.
I'm not knocking your heat treatment. Not at all. I simply have experience that tells me not to do it in bloom. I may be new to this forum but I am hardly new to the game. I appreciate your desire to share with others but feel community is about far more than sucking up to someone with more posts. Presenting a dissenting opinion often leads to more discovery......
Thank you again for exposing me to heat treatment. It will be a tool in the box from here on out.
Peace.
Hey Oldman,
my experience with predators is that they work far better as a preventative rather than to control an established infestation. I would look elsewhere for current issue.
Pylon is approved for fruit and vege. If that is not acceptable to you then I suggest Nukem. Follow the directions regarding lights off. You have been warned.
Used as directed and it is fine. Usually the growers that need to toss everything are the ones that got aggressive with Forbid(myself included). Forbid phytotoxicity is exactly same symptoms as BM's. Imagine that.
Good luck.
Peace.
What are u liking for a ovacide? Reason I recommended tossing was because how long it takes for plants to recover!! That's if they survive. Could veg new plants in 2-3 weeks and be the same size again. Good luck with the battle. Its a uphill climb!!!
I have found that any of the well known ovicides work well even when not expressly approved for BM's. Talastar worked very well. Akari/Talastar or Avid/Talastar would be my choice if Nukem doesn't work out. You should check it out.
The only plants I had to toss were the ones I burned with Forbid. I bought some AC/DC clones 10 days ago that had BM bad. Treated with Avid and aspirin and they are growing already. Is there a chance you used Forbid?
Peace.
oldmanriver1
Member
shiiiiiit , the more i find out about these little ****ys the worse it gets . My californicus arrived today , i did a heat treatment yesterday although i only got to about 48c {next time i wont do it at night duh } so my only plan is to unleash the predators today , move my larger ladies outside in the next few days as they are getting to big already , then move all the small 1s out of room , clean bleach heat to 50c + then move small 1s back and add newly rooted clones to room .
I am still having trouble finding any of the recomended mitcides , u guys in the u.s get all the cool shit , if anyone in oz reading knows where to buy avid , pylon or nukem holla plz
Not sure what else to do at the moment, feel helpless and indecisive any sugestions are welcome
peace
I am still having trouble finding any of the recomended mitcides , u guys in the u.s get all the cool shit , if anyone in oz reading knows where to buy avid , pylon or nukem holla plz
Not sure what else to do at the moment, feel helpless and indecisive any sugestions are welcome
peace
I feel ya brother. These jokers are no fun. Not much more to do. Try ebay for miticides and Nukem. Keep up the aspirin treatment. Get an ovicide. Eradicating is very difficult so stay diligent in future with things like predators etc. I'm trying a product called Azosol right now. 6% azadachtrin. Azamax is 1.2%.
Peace
Peace
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